Worst hack/repair you ever saw.


By mcclad

5 years ago


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  • Latest reply 3 days ago by pinlink
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    There are 1708 posts in topic. You are on page 31 of 35.
    #1501 3 months ago

    What the hell happened to that other board that made cutting it up to fix this one the better option?!

    #1502 3 months ago
    Quoted from MarAlb:

    Maybe she was very busy with this one:

    Wow! I think thats a winner.

    #1503 3 months ago

    Dsuperbee showed me this beautiful hack he found on his JP that he's fixing up:
    IMG_4685 (resized).JPG
    Did the screws go through the cab? You bet!
    IMG_4686 (resized).JPG

    #1504 3 months ago
    Quoted from gunstarhero:

    Dsuperbee showed me this beautiful hack he found on his JP that he's fixing up:

    Did the screws go through the cab? You bet!

    That's not stock?

    #1505 3 months ago

    They wanted to dump that game cause the flipper kept locking on?

    #1506 3 months ago
    Quoted from MarAlb:

    Maybe she was very busy with this one:

    What the HP Lovecraft is that?

    #1507 3 months ago
    Quoted from gunstarhero:

    Dsuperbee showed me this beautiful hack he found on his JP that he's fixing up:

    I guess they figured the 2 screws down the middle were not enough so lets stick 4 more in for good measure !

    #1508 3 months ago
    Quoted from MarAlb:

    Maybe she was very busy with this one:

    If this had been on Frankenstien pinball.....

    #1509 3 months ago
    Quoted from SUPERBEE:

    I guess they figured the 2 screws down the middle were not enough so lets stick 4 more in for good measure !

    I was wondering if they'd chewed out the two screws so added the other 4 to try and hold the stack tight?

    #1510 3 months ago
    Quoted from ajfclark:

    I was wondering if they'd chewed out the two screws so added the other 4 to try and hold the stack tight?

    That's my theory. That's so much easier than gluing a couple toothpicks in those holes, isn't it?

    #1511 3 months ago

    This is a working WPC board, but decided to fix this connector hack today. I don't do a lot of board work but I'm good with my Hakko. It looks like this has had extensive "heat wear". Is there anything besides this connector I should take care of while I have it out? Should I be concerned about those exposed traces?

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    #1512 3 months ago

    May be the beer - why the two diodes on the back of the board? I would also be concerned with the burned connector to the left of the connector withe the blue wires. It looks burned. Replace the white connector - not original. Anything associated with J121 needs to be replaced - male and female.

    Remove wrong pic

    Bills phone 02_04_17 001 (resized).JPG

    #1513 3 months ago
    Quoted from Billc479:

    May be the beer - why the two diodes on the back of the board?

    It is a trick to lift the +5V a bit in order to prevent resets. The execution however will not win a beauty contest.

    #1514 3 months ago
    Quoted from gunstarhero:

    Dsuperbee showed me this beautiful hack he found on his JP that he's fixing up:
    IMG_4685 (resize

    Looks like someone just got a new cordless powertool for his birthday and was desperate to try it......

    #1515 3 months ago
    Quoted from MarAlb:

    Looks like someone just got a new cordless powertool for his birthday and was desperate to try it......

    mmmm-power-tools (resized).jpg
    #1516 3 months ago
    Quoted from Billc479:

    May be the beer - why the two diodes on the back of the board? I would also be concerned with the burned connector to the left of the connector withe the blue wires. It looks burned. Replace the white connector - not original. Anything associated with J121 needs to be replaced - male and female.

    The blue wires actually go to the back of J121, the other burnt connector was J120 in line with J121, both the GI. Those are the ones I planned to and replaced yesterday. It's the backside stuff I wasn't sure about.

    The funny thing is, this hack to wire to the back of the board seems totally unnecessary. Why would soldering to the back be done rather than soldering to the pins (not that I'm recommending that, just wondering why one hack is better than the other). An even simpler hack would be to use a combination of the J120 and J121 headers that are the same. J120 was missing the left 2 pins, J121 the right 2 pins.

    I decided the other pins were ok and just replaced the 2. The connectors are all trifurcon'd now. Here are the after pics.
    DSCN3815 (resized).JPG
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    #1517 3 months ago

    Looks like j121 pin maybe cracked at the solder base.

    #1518 3 months ago
    Quoted from HighVoltage:

    The blue wires actually go to the back of J121, the other burnt connector was J120 in line with J121, both the GI. Those are the ones I planned to and replaced yesterday. It's the backside stuff I wasn't sure about.
    The funny thing is, this hack to wire to the back of the board seems totally unnecessary. Why would soldering to the back be done rather than soldering to the pins (not that I'm recommending that, just wondering why one hack is better than the other). An even simpler hack would be to use a combination of the J120 and J121 headers that are the same. J120 was missing the left 2 pins, J121 the right 2 pins.
    I decided the other pins were ok and just replaced the 2. The connectors are all trifurcon'd now. Here are the after pics.

    After all that work why not just replace the whole 120 and 121 header. It still looks hacked up now.

    #1519 3 months ago

    Not a bad hack, heck, it was so neatly executed I don’t know if I’d even call it a hack. But alas there is no thread for well done creative repairs.

    Anyway, I just want to send a thanks out into the universe to whomever did this one. It was very neat, got the job done with parts on hand, no boards were harmed and was very easy to undo.

    16D1BFCD-82F3-4153-9B95-37963FD15258 (resized).jpeg

    #1520 3 months ago
    Quoted from Mitch:

    After all that work why not just replace the whole 120 and 121 header. It still looks hacked up now.

    I thought about it, but did you see the rest of the board? Ha, seemed like the appropriate fix level. Function over form on this one. But like I said, I don't do much board work, I'll take it under advisement if that's best practice.

    The other thing I was wondering about is the connector. Would IDC be frowned upon for GI? I kind of wish I had one, as crimping each pin was the only thing that made it "all that work", otherwise this would have been fast and easy. I also wondered if I should solder after crimping. This stripper supposedly crimps, but I found it way too fidily and found I could do a nicer job manually. Does this thing actually work for crimping? I need a proper crimper.

    Irwin-Stripper (resized).jpg

    #1521 3 months ago
    Quoted from HighVoltage:

    I thought about it, but did you see the rest of the board? Ha, seemed like the appropriate fix level. Function over form on this one. But like I said, I don't do much board work, I'll take it under advisement if that's best practice.
    The other thing I was wondering about is the connector. Would IDC be frowned upon for GI? I kind of wish I had one, as crimping each pin was the only thing that made it "all that work", otherwise this would have been fast and easy. I also wondered if I should solder after crimping. This stripper supposedly crimps, but I found it way too fidily and found I could do a nicer job manually. Does this thing actually work for crimping? I need a proper crimper.

    Molex connector and proper crimping tool. One time purchase.

    #1522 3 months ago
    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    That's only in the morning, they should be up cooking breakfast.

    #1523 3 months ago

    Once you get a good crimper you will kick yourself for waiting so long.

    #1525 3 months ago

    This is what I use. Its what Bob Roberts used to sell before retirement:

    https://vetco.net/products/molex-crimp-tool-for-062-093-100-156-pins?gclid=CjwKCAiAqIHTBRAVEiwA6TgJw8zeMDVeR7O72Zf4H830ttuBh4e5lYspvBlPLK5sakB65uXdcOXuHBoCzhAQAvD_BwE

    Notice the shape of the crimper in the head. There is a saddle the connector back fits in and the press is curved such that the blades upon criming will fold over and push into the wire.

    This is the cheapest tool I have found to reliably crimp molex pins. If I were doing thousands in a month/year I’d of course look at an official Molex crimper but those are pricey.

    #1526 3 months ago
    Quoted from Plunger069:

    https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=1028-CT
    Here is a great crimping tool.

    That's the one I got. Have literally done a thousand crimps. My crimps look better than factory.

    #1527 3 months ago

    I use an IWISS crimper. It does insulation and wire crimp at the same time, ratchets closed to hold the crimp and does a perfect job every time. Price is right too. GPE is thinking of carrying these. I bought one when he mentioned them. I hope he does start carrying them soon as I'd rather give him the sale.

    amazon.com link »

    #1528 3 months ago

    I may be in the minority here, but I hate crimped connection. I think it may be my years of working with RC airplanes before I got into pinball, where a crimped connections are not used at all due to reliability issues. To that end, if I do use a crimped connection, I always flow some solder into the joint after I crimp it.

    #1529 3 months ago
    Quoted from uncivil_engineer:

    I may be in the minority here, but I hate crimped connection. I think it may be my years of working with RC airplanes before I got into pinball, where a crimped connections are not used at all due to reliability issues. To that end, if I do use a crimped connection, I always flow some solder into the joint after I crimp it.

    Regular crimps suck. A proper molex crimp the wire will nearly break before the wire pulls from the pin.

    #1530 3 months ago
    Quoted from Cheddar:

    I use an IWISS crimper. It does insulation and wire crimp at the same time, ratchets closed to hold the crimp and does a perfect job every time. Price is right too. GPE is thinking of carrying these. I bought one when he mentioned them. I hope he does start carrying them soon as I'd rather give him the sale.
    amazon.com link »

    That one looks nice, I may switch to it for the bench.

    #1531 3 months ago
    Quoted from Cheddar:

    I use an IWISS crimper. It does insulation and wire crimp at the same time, ratchets closed to hold the crimp and does a perfect job every time. Price is right too. GPE is thinking of carrying these. I bought one when he mentioned them. I hope he does start carrying them soon as I'd rather give him the sale.
    amazon.com link »

    Mine is very similar to this... Has a blue handle, but that may just be a design change over the years... The ratchet motion really helps with the smaller connectors - you can put it in, give it one or two ratchets and it'll help hold the connector steady while you get the wire in. I've used it for all the various Molex pinball sizes with no issue.

    #1533 3 months ago
    Quoted from Cheddar:

    I use an IWISS crimper. It does insulation and wire crimp at the same time, ratchets closed to hold the crimp and does a perfect job every time. Price is right too. GPE is thinking of carrying these. I bought one when he mentioned them. I hope he does start carrying them soon as I'd rather give him the sale.
    amazon.com link »

    thats the one I use...its so easy and results are great

    #1534 3 months ago
    Quoted from pinlink:

    What do you guys think about this one?
    https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=1026-CT

    Doesn't ratchet and needs to be used twice for each crimp. The IWISS is cheaper

    Quoted from statictrance:

    Mine is very similar to this... Has a blue handle, but that may just be a design change over the years...

    Mine came with a blue handle too

    #1535 3 months ago
    Quoted from pinlink:

    What do you guys think about this one?
    https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=1026-CT

    Doesn’t look to have the proper shaped crimp head to curl and press in one shot. I think that’s more of a general purpose crimper... it might work but won’t be as easy.

    #1536 3 months ago

    Guys, back to on topic please

    #1537 3 months ago
    Quoted from mgpasman:

    Guys, back to on topic please

    I’ll second that. I keep checking back to find out if someone has tracked down the smoking hot blonde and.... nothing lol.

    Seriously. I’m buying one of those crimpers. I knownit was all off topic but I was just thinking I needed a new one

    #1538 3 months ago
    Quoted from jmountjoy111:

    I’ll second that. I keep checking back to find out if someone has tracked down the smoking hot blonde and.... nothing lol.

    I'm pretty sure if you read carefully, someone was commenting on those pictures in the first person.

    #1539 3 months ago
    Quoted from Cheddar:

    I use an IWISS crimper. It does insulation and wire crimp at the same time, ratchets closed to hold the crimp and does a perfect job every time. Price is right too. GPE is thinking of carrying these. I bought one when he mentioned them. I hope he does start carrying them soon as I'd rather give him the sale.
    amazon.com link »

    Would these work for crimping 0.156” pins? Been looking for a set.

    Thanks

    #1540 3 months ago
    Quoted from pincity:

    Would these work for crimping 0.156” pins? Been looking for a set.
    Thanks

    They do for me

    #1541 3 months ago

    Another wpc gi hack. I fixed it for less than a dollar and 30 minutes. I don't get why people wreck good wiring harnesses for such an easy fix

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    #1542 3 months ago
    Quoted from Okarcades:

    Another wpc gi hack. I fixed it for less than a dollar and 30 minutes. I don't get why people wreck good wiring harnesses for such an easy fix

    Because for private owners, they don't have the parts, don't know HOW to get the parts, and are in a hurry so there's no time allotted to research how to get the parts, and think that since it works just fine that way, then the "repair" is fine.

    For operators, they don't have the parts, don't have time to get the parts (because any downtime, they might as well pull the machine and part it out to help avoid downtime on other machines), and since it works just fine that way, then the "repair" is fine. My husband worked in an arcade (not as service), and saw that sort of thing happen all the time.

    #1543 3 months ago
    Quoted from LynnInDenver:

    Because for private owners, they don't have the parts, don't know HOW to get the parts, and are in a hurry so there's no time allotted to research how to get the parts, and think that since it works just fine that way, then the "repair" is fine.
    For operators, they don't have the parts, don't have time to get the parts (because any downtime, they might as well pull the machine and part it out to help avoid downtime on other machines), and since it works just fine that way, then the "repair" is fine. My husband worked in an arcade (not as service), and saw that sort of thing happen all the time.

    For burnt connectors on location and no parts in your tool kit or trunk/truck load of parts; At the Bally service schools for their first Solid State machines (remember, this was a transition from EM to Solid State machine time period) they instructed you to cut wires from the burnt connectors on the Rectifier board and solder them directly to the test points. This was acceptable to keep the machines making money until you could come back with new connector shells and pins. More money allows the Operators to buy more new machines.

    #1544 3 months ago

    I bought a Paragon from Bally's Aladdin's Castle in December 1981. They had it torn down for transport when I got there. The manager and his boss both instructed me to solder the wires for GI and feature lamps directly to the test points when I set it up.

    Aladdin's Castle was a great place to buy games - cosmetically they were usually in near-mint condition.

    #1545 3 months ago
    Quoted from merccat:

    Doesn’t look to have the proper shaped crimp head to curl and press in one shot. I think that’s more of a general purpose crimper... it might work but won’t be as easy.

    This is the one I have. It was cheaper than a ratcheting pair.

    It does give the nice "B" crimps but it is not as nice as a ratcheting set. It works well but you have to make sure you have squeezed hard enough.

    #1546 3 months ago
    Quoted from Cheddar:

    I use an IWISS crimper. It does insulation and wire crimp at the same time, ratchets closed to hold the crimp and does a perfect job every time. Price is right too. GPE is thinking of carrying these. I bought one when he mentioned them. I hope he does start carrying them soon as I'd rather give him the sale.
    amazon.com link »

    I have this one as well. does a perfect job.

    #1547 3 months ago
    Quoted from toyotaboy:

    That's only in the morning, they should be up cooking breakfast.

    We do it for decoration, thats it and thats all man we do it for decoration. Wooo woooooooooooo.

    #1548 3 months ago
    Quoted from RoyGBev:

    I bought a Paragon from Bally's Aladdin's Castle in December 1981. They had it torn down for transport when I got there. The manager and his boss both instructed me to solder the wires for GI and feature lamps directly to the test points when I set it up.
    Aladdin's Castle was a great place to buy games - cosmetically they were usually in near-mint condition.

    +1 got to know tbe manager, assistant very well. Got some good games out of there.

    #1549 3 months ago
    Quoted from darcangeloel:

    We do it for decoration, thats it and thats all man we do it for decoration. Wooo woooooooooooo.

    Pinballs need whistle tips...

    #1550 3 months ago

    Cv sound board, must have run out of he correct size fuses!

    20F6A4E2-5FC4-4EB4-983D-7A0338D6BD23 (resized).jpeg

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