Quoted from ForceFlow:This one just popped up on ebay.
$_57.JPG (Click image to enlarge)
Sweet, I can plug my microphone into that power supply. Must be from a Bally Kiss, Rolling Stones, or Nugent
Quoted from ForceFlow:This one just popped up on ebay.
$_57.JPG (Click image to enlarge)
Sweet, I can plug my microphone into that power supply. Must be from a Bally Kiss, Rolling Stones, or Nugent
Depending on how low that ebay goes, might be worth it for the transformer, it is only used on a few games.
Quoted from barakandl:Depending on how low that ebay goes, might be worth it for the transformer, it is only used on a few games.
Already gone. Looks like it went for $39; free shipping. If it works, somebody made out on it.
I'm surprised pinwiki doesn't have a list of which games use which transformers.
[edit]: I went ahead and added about 2/3 of the transformer numbers to the list of Bally pins.
Quoted from balzofsteel:Half of the score reel coils were smoked, as was the score motor. I'm sure I'll find more.
But at least the screw fuses survived
Quoted from balzofsteel:I get it. Bells are loud and annoying so they get disconnected.
wthbell.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
Now for the part I don't get - that is a plug there at the coil an inch from where the wire was cut.
That's Great
Not the first time I've seen it...picked up a machine from a guy once...well, all the em guts. either cab was trashed or (dare I say it) virtualized....
Anyway, he took liberty of taking apart before I got there, and cut off every jones plug to head like an inch or two from connectors. even said he thought it was weird they didn't have connectors!
I had a coin door that was transplanted into a Captain Fantastic from another similar game. Someone cut all the wires about 2 inches from the connector plug, just like the bell coil in the picture above.
Perhaps they didnt know it was a plug but dang it was a pain to repair.
Quoted from balzofsteel:Williams Soccer.
IMG_0070.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
Half of the score reel coils were smoked, as was the score motor. I'm sure I'll find more.
Williams Smoker HFE (House Fire Edition).
Quoted from ForceFlow:Looks like someone is flipping that transformer. It's now listed for $130 on ebay by somebody else.
$_57.JPG (Click image to enlarge)
Quoted from Ralph67:Love this thread , Here one for you SDU out of a Stern Catacomb, Oh the horror!005.JPG (Click image to enlarge)004.JPG (Click image to enlarge)Catacomb Res 011.JPG (Click image to enlarge)
Quoted from Ralph67:Love this thread , Here one for you SDU out of a Stern Catacomb, Oh the horror!
Quoted from Ralph67:Love this thread , Here one for you SDU out of a Stern Catacomb, Oh the horror!005.JPG (Click image to enlarge)004.JPG (Click image to enlarge)Catacomb Res 011.JPG (Click image to enlarge)
Why not just drill holes in the PCB if you're gonna run caps in parallel in this case? This is hideous. Nothing wrong with running parallel caps. I prefer it when I build PSUs for my analog synth gear, and DE's PSUs do it in case of failure. It works out being cheaper too.
Quoted from The_Director:Not the worst by any means, but deserves a spot on here
And then they reinstall the board in the game, shorting the transistor tab to the back plane, thus undoing everything they put so much effort into fixing.
Quoted from dothedoo:And then they reinstall the board in the game, shorting the transistor tab to the back plane, thus undoing everything they put so much effort into fixing.
They could have at least squirted hot glue all over it for insulation.
Quoted from dothedoo:Ugh!!!
Dear God why? He doubled/tripled the workload? Not to mention the direct pin solder method... Wow.
Couple of hacks on a recent Centaur I picked up. First, what do you do when you've broken a plastic? Why, you carve a new one by hand and color it in with a black Sharpie marker, of course. I'm replacing all the plastics but if anyone's got a couple of extra bell spacers they can part with, please met me know, as you can see I need them.
Second, here's an "extra" bridge rectifier on the power board. I can only assume the original one went south and the op was too lazy to remove the board to replace it, but this gives me shivers.....I'm actually afraid to power the game on.
I had that same rectifier repair on a Xenon I bought. In mine the old one had been removed. I rebuilt the board and put the rectifier back in place but there is nothing wrong with that type of repair. If the rectifier was gooped and secured down properly it would outlast the original. Are you sure the original is still there?
Quoted from jibmums:Couple of hacks on a recent Centaur I picked up. First, what do you do when you've broken a plastic? Why, you carve a new one by hand and color it in with a black Sharpie marker, of course. I'm replacing all the plastics but if anyone's got a couple of extra bell spacers they can part with, please met me know, as you can see I need them.
Second, here's an "extra" bridge rectifier on the power board. I can only assume the original one went south and the op was too lazy to remove the board to replace it, but this gives me shivers.....I'm actually afraid to power the game on.100_6652.jpg 100_6562.jpg
I don't see a screw securing the original bridge and am guessing it was removed. They usually fail in a "shorted" mode so if not removed, the new one wouldn't work as the input voltage fuse would blow upon power-up. Note that for bridge rectifiers that would short prematurely ( more current was drawn that originally engineered due to connector fatigue, low line voltage etc.) a factory recommended modification was to do exactly what you see here. A higher current-rated Bridge was used and remote mounted to improve ventilation and, since larger, would not fit where the original one was installed. I would not call this a hack.
As for the plastics, if they were unobtainium or required purchase of a complete set, an operator would do what is necessary to keep the coins coming in.
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:I had that same rectifier repair on a Xenon I bought. In mine the old one had been removed. I rebuilt the board and put the rectifier back in place but there is nothing wrong with that type of repair. If the rectifier was gooped and secured down properly it would outlast the original. Are you sure the original is still there?
Checked it out, and the original rectifier was indeed removed. Still looks kinda scary though.
Quoted from lb45:P1010324.JPG
Stern mpu-200
It wasn't rotten until he started working on it.
I got some of that Doodle-a-Circuit type stuff when Radio Shack closed. I might play with it some on this poor thing. Maybe end up being another craziest hack repair someone's ever seen off in the future somewhere.
Quoted from indypinhead:This was on my $50 Globetrotter pin. Picked it up at a yard sale.
DSC_1312.jpg
That green wire usually goes to one of the resistors... or a test point. I forget which.
Quoted from indypinhead:This was on my $50 Globetrotter pin. Picked it up at a yard sale.
Wish we had yard sales like that here
I got really lucky w/ this one. Only took a few hours to make some minor repairs. Machine works 100% now.
Some pix of that board with the junk stripped off.
X-ray view.
No plated holes left at U14, a couple left at U19.
Kind of messy around U15 and U16.
More traces and plated holes missing.
FrankenStern has a twin.
Doodle-a-Circuit pen says the stuff can be soldered - quickly at low temp.
Low temp solder ordered.
Quoted from reynolds531:Mr. Vid, sir: How many times did I look through your tutorials? Countless. I will assume that there is no sarcasm in your comment. Is this better/bigger?
six.jpg
It looks like someone really "liked" liked that board.
Quoted from balzofsteel:Some pix of that board with the junk stripped off.
X-ray view.
IMG_0209.jpg
No plated holes left at U14, a couple left at U19.
IMG_0217.jpg
Kind of messy around U15 and U16.
IMG_0208.jpg
IMG_0213.jpg
More traces and plated holes missing.
FrankenStern has a twin.
IMG_0211.jpg
Doodle-a-Circuit pen says the stuff can be soldered - quickly at low temp.
Low temp solder ordered.
labrat.jpg
I have tried that circuit writer pen on a board before and had absolutely no luck. I hope that it works better for you. I do know there is a video on YouTube about putting in new eyelets. you could order a bunch and do that if the circuit writer doesn't do it
Quoted from jmountjoy111:I have tried that circuit writer pen on a board before and had absolutely no luck. I hope that it works better for you. I do know there is a video on YouTube about putting in new eyelets. you could order a bunch and do that if the circuit writer doesn't do it
Didn't find the video but did find itty bitty eyelets. (interesting... it wants to spellcheck itty but not bitty) I could see places where some of those might come in handy.
Quoted from Mikala:I certainly hope it was not welded
Silver solder. That is what you did when the end wore or broke off and you didn't have a new one with. Ain't pretty, but it works.
LTG : )™
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