(Topic ID: 79985)

World Poker Tour Pinball Club

By devils4ever

5 years ago

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  • 905 posts
  • 166 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 53 days ago by HankScorpio
  • Topic is favorited by 76 Pinsiders


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#274 4 years ago

I found a reference from Steve Ritchie that said that the center bank targets were originally backed by posts and rubber rings instead of the steel bar that came from the factory. My playfield was drilled for that (apparently, they all were) and so I'm heading down that path. But the original location of the posts seems to have changed: the t-nuts around the center bank are a little forward of the marks in the art, but the unused holes are in the original location.

Has anybody tried this?

4 months later
#349 4 years ago
Quoted from danczaz:

Also, how do you get to this KI wizard mode...

Check the instant info. There's a long list of stuff you need to qualify it. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/keefer-invitational-how-to-get-there

3 weeks later
#375 4 years ago
Quoted from DavidPinballWizz:

Is there a guide somewhere what the correct steps are (don't want be breaking stuff) how to do the swap or what needs to be removed?

I think it's just a few screws and it slides out. Basically, take the flippers off, remove the two screws near the front of the mini-playfield, and there's one or two more left in the back.

I replaced mine, and it wasn't hard. It took a an hour because I did it in front of the TV. You'll need a #2 philips and a couple of the common nut drivers. Move the old parts over, one at a time, to the new playfield, and you'll be fine.

When you put the new playfield in, there are dimples to help line up the flippers.

[edit: I had to take the playfield off for maintenance and it was a little harder than I remembered. The shooter ramp has to come off as well, as does the right wireform, so you actually have to disassemble the right slingshot a little. I still maintain it's not that hard.]

7 months later
#417 3 years ago
Quoted from Chuckie:

Got one question, for me the flippers on my and many other WPT's (and LOTR for that matter) need a little more power.
What is the best way to achieve this?

Have you rebuilt them?

What are you looking for in terms of additional power? (And how do you feel about replacing drop targets?)

#419 3 years ago
Quoted from Chuckie:

don't understand your question about the drop targets? the drop targets on my wpt are just fine.

You could increase power to the flipper coils, but the usual tradeoff is that you'll have a higher-speed ball ramming into drops. (The usual method for this is to remove wire from the flipper coil itself but I'm not sure if that's a good idea on a SAM game because there is no separate hold winding.)

#423 3 years ago
Quoted from Chuckie:

And how do I increase the power to the flippers?

Get a coil with fewer turns of wire. Stern may have a more powerful coil available, or you can remove turns, maybe 10%.

I really think this is not a good idea on a Stern game in general because the flippers are overpowered to begin with. On WPT, I can see your point. (Oddly my ramp shots are OK, it's my left orbit I am unhappy with. I still wouldn't do it.)

It is also worth re-checking the flipper mech itself, looking for slop or pieces that are not well aligned. If the flipper bat moves up or down as the solenoid pulls in, that's robbing power.

1 month later
#431 3 years ago
Quoted from TheBrewhouse:

Has anyone on here removed the metal plate behind the center drop targets and had good results?

I tried it and I didn't like it. I had the impression I was getting a lot of airballs, perhaps because the center drop bank had been moved backward a little (judging from the markings on the playfield visible with the posts removed). But I haven't had problems with bricking the center bank at all, so my experience is different than yours.

6 months later
#543 3 years ago
Quoted from rollinover:

am I the only one who likes the original? its not great but it reminds me of the show I loved to watch back in the day when texas hold em exploded.. ah the memories.

I wouldn't go that far, but I do like it more than the replacements.

1 month later
#549 3 years ago

The Dogs Playing Poker translite is the funniest one I've seen.

11 months later
#668 2 years ago
Quoted from Dr_Smith:

Just got a WPT and had to pull the head off to get it home. Everything was working fine before disassembly, but now that It's been put back together, the ace in the hole bars aren't working properly. Once a ball gets locked behind the gate, it pops a ball into the shooter lane... but then the gate opens immediately and lets the ball out. If I am able to start the ace in the hole multiball (with both balls on the playfield), it often will turn into a 4 ball multiball as it pops a couple more balls out and auto launches 'em. (Though, if one ball drains prior to getting the AitH multiball, it doesn't pop out more balls). The two optos on the gate test OK as do the switches in the trough. Anyone have an idea what the issue could be?

I would get some Novus and clean the upper playfield really well before anything else. Optos don't really like to shine through plastic, particularly when it's scratched. I replaced the upper playfield on mine, and a few hundred games in, it's dirty enough that I've seen the optos get confused. Then I would check all of the trough switches, and especially for cold solder joints on the opto board in the trough. Since the problem happens when the trough has two balls in it, maybe something isn't quite right when the trough has exactly two balls in it. (There could also be a cold solder problem with the connection from the AITH optos themselves to the opto receiver board.)

I guess if you had to take the head off, and that's the culprit, I'd look for problems near the AITH receiver board, since that's close to the head and most likely to have been jostled, bent, or damaged.

Good luck!

3 months later
#696 1 year ago

First, update the code. There were definitely bugs in WPT. You don't need to update the ROM chip; you just need to update, which takes a USB stick. The ROM file should be on Stern's web site.

Second, Stern had a service bulletin out for WPT. You might see if this is relevant, but I don't think so. WPT was known to have spontaneous resets, but that's not the problem that you're describing. Anyway, Stern was replacing computers with a fix, and you might want to have that done if it wasn't. (This is a long shot but can't hurt... if Stern is still doing it gratis.)

But if that doesn't fix it, I suggest another look at the switch tests. I'm guessing here, but... I'm sure all the switches register, but I think your game has an additional problem. It sounds like a short somewhere in the switch matrix, causing spurious closures in one of the left or right ramp switches. That, I would expect, to advance through the cities and into WPT champ multiball. Is that what's happening? This can be a real pain to find, because the problem will not be with the ramp switches. It will be with switches that share the same row or column, but not those.

But update the ROMs first. You might even get better diagnostics that way.

5 months later
#759 1 year ago

My game does the 3-pulse thing when it can't see all the drop targets up. I would guess you have a flaky opto or header pin on one of the drop target PCBs, or possibly a loose wire on one of the opto boards, but that once it settles it's reading correctly.

Are *all* of the opto boards firing 3 times, or just one?

Make sure the boards are screwed down reasonably tightly, no missing screws.

#764 1 year ago

Use the active switch test to make sure that the drops are all off when all up. You may have bigger problems than just cracked solder if they're not registering correctly to start with. (Most problems are connections, so check for continuity in the .156 connectors, etc.)

3 months later
#814 1 year ago
Quoted from Manhattan:

I'm also looking for some tech help... My WPT recently stopped registering switches in the upper portion of the playfeild.
Both ball lock VUK's
Ace in the hole gates optos & switches
Both ramp optos and switches
Not sure where to start...

Since you have many problems, and with both opto and non-opto switches, it is likely to be a broken connection. Get a manual, or at least the switch matrix page from the one on IPDB. Print a copy (ideally) and mark all of the bad switches. Look for a break in the common wire (it's probably just one).

A good place to check would be to make sure the switch header to the computer hasn't had a wire pop out.

If the problem isn't immediately obvious on a visual inspection (and I wouldn't expect to get that lucky), a multimeter on a continuity setting would be a helpful tool.

1 month later
#841 10 months ago
Quoted from Pinballocd:

Anyone have a WPT playfield rubber placement diagram they could share with me.

Better late than never, I suppose -- http://ty-ffasi.com/wp-content/uploads/WorldPokerTourManual.pdf page 61.

SternPinball.com used to have really good copies of the manuals in PDF. They were even in color when the printed copies aren't! Now they're gone, but I had a cached copy of this one, so I put it up somewhere else.

Hopefully Stern will eventually fix their web site. It used to have all their service bulletins and great documentation.

1 week later
#846 10 months ago
Quoted from mikekemp:

The ace in the hole gate when I turn on the pin goes up and down continuously

Put the game in switch test and make sure both of the optos in the Ace in the Hole jail trigger correctly. My guess is that they aren't doing so, and one of them is blocked. Get some Novus #2 and clean the upper playfield under the optos. (The optos could also have broken connections or more exotic problems, but I suspect it's dirt on the playfield.)

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