(Topic ID: 79985)

World Poker Tour Pinball Club

By devils4ever

5 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 905 posts
  • 166 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 51 days ago by HankScorpio
  • Topic is favorited by 76 Pinsiders


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#203 5 years ago

Has anyone asked him?

1 week later
#209 5 years ago
Quoted from StevenP:

A cheap/cool WPT mod (think I also saw one years ago): Cut the back and top/bottom off the box for a deck of cards, adhere it to the card deck over the right entrance to the upper pf. Gives more of a poker feel to the game.


5 months later
#330 4 years ago

Hmmm.... Let me get an alt trans spun up..may be fun.

2 years later
#568 2 years ago

I just brought mine home last night. Need to move it from the garage to my game room and I too can snap a pic

#569 2 years ago

Help? I'm running out the door but can clarify tonight

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#571 2 years ago
Quoted from BC_Gambit:

Here are my 2 FWIW!

Between our pics I hope he can fix it!

#576 2 years ago

hey guys
Pulled my wpt off route, which got almost no play, and have some parts to freshen it up.

However looking at it, is the game missing some posts?
This pic is of the middle 4 bank targets

Also how bad is replacing the upper pf? honestly. Looks a tad crappy but doable

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#580 2 years ago


Thanks for confirming guys!

#581 2 years ago

Went to do all leds, ordered bullet style by accident and they are too long I'll have to wait to pull the upper pf until the new leds come. So I can swap the bulbs underneath.

However replaced a handful of coil sleeves and cleaned the shooter rod plunger.

Any common things that the game has issues with?

My right drop target bank has 3 out of 4 dropping very slow so I was going to pull that out and check the washers

2 weeks later
#586 2 years ago

This game looks so much better with leds I almost thought the inserts were yellow

Just need to pull the upper pf, swap lights and rubbers and she'll be done

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2 weeks later
#587 2 years ago

The scoop at the shooter lane to the upper pf, the top plate welds broke. It is zip tied, I am finding a local welder but this same thing happen(ed)s to the eject trough scoop as well. Are people welding or using jb weld for this tab welds break?

#589 2 years ago
Quoted from stoptap:

TIG weld. It also needs a copper block holding on the inside of the two pieces of metal being welded to prevent melt through.

Alrighty...I pm'd vid1900 as well and he said the same. I removed the rubber and I'll take off the stickers tonight. Then bring all the ejects that cracked with me Thursday to the weld shop. I'll update!


#590 2 years ago

WPT scoop fixed! Had the local weld shop weld a handful of my scoops. Excited to put it all back together....as cute as zip ties are

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#592 2 years ago
Quoted from stoptap:

If you want to remove all traces of weld scorching and put the 'grain' back in the stainless steel, then green Scotch-Brite works perfectly.

Thanks! I'll try that on the scoop

Well I got the rubbers and leds done. Just need to scan and put the stickers back on the scoop. All waxed and smelling delicious!

Game looks fantastic with leds. At upper pf was dirty! And I like the clear pop caps to get even more light around.

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1 week later
#594 2 years ago

Just finished wpt. I'll miss the game for the sweet deep code but it is for sale. Ad in the market.

The white leds and new clear upper pf are amazing. The white rubbers in the upper pf really get some bounce going

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#596 2 years ago
Quoted from rcbrown316:

I'm in. Should have the game in a week or two.

If you're excited and haven't played the game much (before buying), watch akm videos or papa gameplay on it. Holy smokes are there strategies!!!

#598 2 years ago
Quoted from tominator:

Just joined the club! Game is hard!
I want to get mirror blades and LED's... the translite reflects on the glass and I find it hard to see the upper playfield.
It's a great game...!


2 weeks later
#612 2 years ago

I used all white non ghosting in my WPT. You'll want the non ghosting or you'll have that bad ghosting/fade of the leds. Or the OCD led board.

#614 2 years ago
Quoted from stoptap:

Thanks guys but I meant how many #44s and how many #555s. I know WPT has a lot of #44s in the inserts. I don't have access to my machine right now.

I tried counting but just did like 60 or so of each....

EDIT: attaching my order. I think I only needed a few more bulbs of the socket style....

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#616 2 years ago
Quoted from Glycerin:

Just bought a WPT a couple months ago I'm in the process of fixing it up. One problem I seem to be having is that when the droptargets reset the solenoid seem to cycle three times when popping them up. I just took all of these drop targets out and did the service call on them from Stern and clean them up. Any ideas to what could be causing this would be greatly appreciated thanks.

When they reset the first time. Do all of the drops go up and stay up? Sounds kinda like it a drop isn't staying up, or a switch is bad/needs adjustment to confirm they are all up

#619 2 years ago

Mmm ya check the coil sleeve and movement to make sure it isn't bad or catching. Also make sure the wires are soldered on and not slowly falling off.

Are those coils ~24v? Make sure that power line is at the right voltage. Maybe in test it is the only thing firing but when the game is playing the voltage drops?

#621 2 years ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

need help. My 12V/5V aux cable at the front of the machine has been butchered; specifically the 12v I wonder if anyone could take a few pictures of their connector and what the color of the cable is?

The one on the right side in the front of the cab?

2 months later
#663 2 years ago
Quoted from low80elco:

So not sure if this was a fluke, but if updating your code without the new boot rom, try a usb sd card reader. I just completed mine with the original boot rom and a 4gb ad card in a Taurus sd reader.
Btw don't use blue on the back wall. Way too hard to see the upper playfield, those have been changed back out!

Can you not update with just a usb stick?

I haven’t updated wpt so not sure how or even what board it has

2 months later
#673 1 year ago
Quoted from blowback1976:

About to start a tear down on the play field. Is there anything I need to be aware of, when removing the upper playfield. Looks like only support comes from the flippers at the front, and the small part in the Ace in the Hole.

nope super easy. Hardest part is the flippers super long shafts.

#676 1 year ago
Quoted from blowback1976:

Alright, I have the upper playfield out, not as bad as anticipating. Now, what about the back panel? I tried the undo the brackets on the side of the panel from the back, as well as the brackets on the bottom of the playfield. And by going through the manual, it doesn't appear that any of the assemblies are holding it back. Any suggestions?

Like where the Aces lock is? That is all from behind the pf back panel IIRC

#682 1 year ago
Quoted from williams:

Not sure, I'll try to take a look at it to see if there's an issue. If you're not already, make sure your print settings are set to something like 'Do not scale' or 'Print at 100%'

This is also what I was going to suggest

#684 1 year ago
Quoted from williams:

Please use this version of the cards instead. It's the same except for the logos at the bottom have been moved or removed so they're not hidden when installed.

Maybe try hosting the art file on dropbox or google drive? Pinside may be resizing the image?

2 weeks later
#689 1 year ago

I lost the rubber sheet for what size goes where and the manual doesn’t seem to list. The top drop bank, what rubber goes behind the drops?

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#690 1 year ago

stern must of posted an updated manual vs printed

Page 60


3 weeks later
#704 1 year ago
Quoted from misterschu:

Did you use the 4SMD bulbs for Flashers (e.g. the red covers, like the one over the skill shot vuk -- I'm not too familiar with terms as this is my first pin)
Mine came with mostly LEDs but there are a few incandescents left in there and some lights are out.

Here is the manual

That should help with bulb locations and sizes

These were in my order from comet:
4 SMD 6.3V AC/DC SUPREME BRIGHTNESS NON GHOSTING *EXCLUSIVE* - None - #44/#47 Bayonet - Natural White
1 SMD 6.3V AC/DC SUPREME BRIGHTNESS NON GHOSTING 5050 BULB - Clear - #44/#47 Bayonet - Natural White

But I don't remember what went where. I think flashers are bayonet style...and I only got 1 25 pack of the 4smd bayo, so I bet I used those in the flashers? Unfortunately I sold my game already, so I can't look :/


HA! Found it. THose were all for inserts. One of my old orders with normal led (not the non ghosting) I had the flashers on, and returned all but the flashers aka #89 bulbs. Here is what I used for the flashers (red cap) on Wpt


Should be these, in red

1 month later
#723 1 year ago
Quoted from misterschu:

While you have it apart, may be worth checking the welds on the ramps and vuk tubes (and possibly getting them reinforced even if they're not split yet, if they look weak)

Yes! Very good recommendation. Both my vuk and ball trough has weld breaks. Local weld shop fixed them up nicely

#725 1 year ago
Quoted from misterschu:

Does anybody have on-hand or have the ability to make a nice scan of the decals from the shooter lane VUK tube? I ripped mine when I removed them to send the VUK out for repair and can't find them for sale anywhere.

I swear I scanned them when I pulled mine apart. I’d have to look through my laptop scans and such. I’m traveling all day tomorrow but this weekend I should have a reply.

#729 1 year ago
Quoted from misterschu:

Awesome, look forward to it, thanks a bunch.

found a scan, sending pm

2 months later
#744 1 year ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

I’m looking to join the club. Can anyone give me a cliff notes version of what to look for? Any potentially expensive / unobtanium items that would cause concern?

Check for lip height and damage around the clear window.
Make sure the ace in the hole registers a ball inside (optos) and the teeth/bars register hits

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