In the club myself as well. I have a few questions.

1. Having an intermittent issue with the left ramp optos. Sometimes they are triggering on their own. Switch test doesn't show them activating until I cut the beam manually by hand. Any ideas? It's not happening all the time, the solder on the optos seems fine and the wire to under the playfield is a solid connection.

2. Is anyone aware of a rule sheet existing for this game? I can't seem to find one on the 'net. I am pretty familiar with the game already but wanted to see if there were any minute details that I'm missing.

3. How much of a pain is it to lift that upper playfield? I'd like to install some pop bumper light up caps, as well as change out the rubbers down there. Also, are there any methods to spruce up that upper playfield plastic? Mine is a little smokey.

I have cleaned them. Alignment seems good (they are triggering perfectly when I do so manually, and they are shining through nice and bright). Banging on the game doesn't do anything. It's weird--I had the game on all last night, and they didn't trigger falsely once. It seems inconsistent, but when it happens, it happens a lot. I remember having the same issue on my Stern Rolling Stones, and after a while the issue just went away. It made no sense.

I watched that a long time ago, but I'll have to take another look at it now that I actually own the machine. I understand most of the rules pretty well, but what I'm after is the super subtle stuff that is far from obvious.

Maybe I should do some glass off triggering and consider slapping together a rulesheet myself in the future. Videos are great, but having something in writing next to you while playing is great too.

Thanks! It's a super fun game and I find it quite addictive (so much so, that after AGDQ, I had to buy one).

I was streaming this the other day and got just as close. I needed like.. 19 million (or something along those lines) on No Limit Multiball. It's tough to do that. I guess the best way is to focus on using your 3X hurry-up shot on a three-times jackpot, but *that's* hard too.

Yeah, it's like the Valinor of WPT. I think it is more manageable though because of how easy it is to get into some kind of multiball, and you can use those multiball modes to progress towards other goals. No Limits is definitely the toughest because you have to focus on just that, I just think it's going to require some 9 million jackpots.

Yeah, disable that gate. It'll increase the flow of the game a lot and will keep the ball out of the [dangerous] pop bumpers.

$3K is too much unless it truly is HUO with super low plays. You pay for that pristine condition, but I'd be wary a game from that era is really HUO.

Ace in the Hole lock and drop target issues are probably the main things to look for.

The flasher integration is what really makes that backbox LED kit. They are expensive, but if you have your backbox flashing like the old Sega and Data East games prior to when they moved to the tube lighting, it's worth the price.

You need to know what hand you are on. The last hand will win the tournament. It could take one, two, three, four, and up to five hands depending on how far you've moved in settings or what your software adjustments are set to.

Added over 8 years ago: *edit - Meant to say "cities", not "settings".

Yeah, that translite looks great. If I still had my machine I would have loved to pick one of these up.

I'd recommend counting out the inserts and picking out the LEDs yourself. It will cost you considerably less than buying a pre-selected kit.

Yeah, it's not hard but it does take a little bit longer. The thing about piecing it all out instead of buying a kit is you will probably get individual discounts for bundles of the same types of LEDs, or a percentage off your entire purchase. You can probably put together a full conversion with half the money a kit sells for, and you will possibly be happier with the results.

I had the OCD board in my WPT and I didn't make a single configuration change to it. Pretty sure I was using standard CT super brights, or whatever they are called, all over the playfield for inserts. I have really only felt the need to make adjustments on a handful of games I have had the board in, most games look fine out of the box without any OCD tweaks if you aren't using LEDs that are extremely bright (for instance, don't use clear-domed, two-LED types; you will definitely need to lower the brightness in that scenario).

You can see my old WPT with OCD in it here:

Yeah, that alternate translite is awesome. If I get another WPT, that will be the first thing I do to it.

There are easy ways to mute the backbox lamp. Takes a minute or two, totally worth it.

Congrats on the purchase by the way, it's a great game. Miss mine, but I had a trade offer I couldn't refuse at the time.

Take two sheets of printer paper, wrap them around the bulb and tape them in place. Works like a champ.

I made some before/after photos a few years ago.

1463091_606232656079741_1758050860_n (resized).jpg

545989_606232672746406_610077627_n (resized).jpg

$$$$$$$$$$

But yes, I agree that they look nice. I've had a few in my games.

Just standard printer paper. I wouldn't bother with anything thinner. Also, use the entire sheet. Wrap it all the way around and tape it down. Do this for both halves of the bulb. It'll take just two standard 8.5 x 11 sheets to get it done.

Another option--take the bulb out completely. It doesn't look great, but you'll have zero reflection from the backbox.