anyone ever have an issue with the ace in the hole opto triggering...like alot? mine was going off constantly last night (sound was really annoying), I pulled the glass and started to hit the ball with my finger, seemed to works correctly while doing that...then it sort of stopped? anyone have this issue?

I had a similar issue and it was that the plunger wasn't latching at the top of the stroke so it kept firing. I had a broken spring in the latch that catches the plunger.

Yes, my AITH opto loves to fire repeatedly, which basically renders the game unplayable. Best way I know of to "cure" it for awhile is to give a really good cleaning to the upper playfield surface -- seems like the grime can disrupt the opto beam. I also wonder if micro-scratches in the upper playfield surface contribute... I have a spare UPF but have not installed it yet.

Yes I think you may be onto something here...after giving it a finger wipe, it seems to have cured it a bit...for now anyway...

Do I seriously have to remove the top scoop on the left side to change the rubbers???

You can take out the upper playfield and drill a quarter inch hole where the opto shines for a durable resolution

All done,.....having fat fingers was definitionally a challenge.

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Hi! I have issue with power board. Actually this board was in Family guy, and it randomly reboots, i swapped family guy ( which have reboot issue ) to other from WPT, now family guy works fine, but on wpt now have same reboot issue like it was on FG. In fact this is something wrong on Power Board. Any ideas what it can be, where i should find solution?

On T3 there was a small pot to adjust the 5v. I bumped up my friends voltage to 5.1v and no more resets.

I can’t recall off hand if it is the same boardset on WPT / FG.

It's whitestar game. WPT is S.A.M i am not sure that power board on sam have 5v adjustment

If your cpu is rev F 520-5246-00, there is a bulletin about random resets. Bulletin 163.

Issue not in CPU i think...

So, I have to know if this is a software glitch or if I’m the only one with this.

On the Spin-a-Card feature, when the machine selects the King of Spades, does the playfield light instead display the Ace of Spades, one step further? Everything else works properly (lights when hit, etc) and even the DMD shows the King of Spades. But the light on the playfield animation lights the Ace. I won’t think it’s a wiring or control issue since again it works properly in every other use of the light: I’m guessing it had to be a glitch in the software code.

I do have v14.

— M

I believe that is a software bug seen on all games.

Painted metal in black with silver flakes, legs didn’t installed yet. Looks nice, it’s change colors depends of lighting, sometimes looks like on graphite sometimes pure black with flakes. What do you think guys?
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Looks great.

I am having an issue with my ace-in-the-hole mech where it doesn't want to latch every time it raises the gate. I have been messing with it and it seems like there is not enough spring pressure on the latch. However, when I put a slightly heavier spring in it latches but then the small coil that releases the latch is not strong enough to retract the latch. Playing around with springs I can get it so it sometimes latches and always releases but not so that it always latches. I have taken the whole mech apart and cleaned everything, replaces coil sleeves but nothing seems to be obviously wrong with the mech. Anyone had similar problem and found a solution?

Also for reference I had previous replaced the latch compression spring but couldn't find the official Stern part (266-5086-01). There doesn't seem to be a supplier other than a place in Australia. I got some replacements from Mcmaster Carr that are 3/16" OD by 1" long in a couple of different weights. It worked fine for 6 months or so but recently it started having issues again. Maybe someone knows a better replacement.

Question for WPT owners. In TEST mode on a WPT yesterday, when I was testing switches I hit the shooter lane switch and it started to eject the balls from the through into the shooter lane. It did this one ball at a time. I thought once all the balls were ejected it would stop but it didn't. Is this common? If not, is there a fix for it?

As I type this I am now thinking I should've tried to back out of TEST mode but we shut the machine off instead.

Does anyone have a link to these instruction / free play cards? They came on my machine and I’d like to print them on better paper stock.

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Here you go, miss my game.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/custom-apron-cards-printable-versions-only/page/11#post-5238927

I have seen the cards in that thread. I prefer the the version I have in the game currently. I just need to find the link to them.

I'll be posting mine for sale soon if interested PM me

Ditto - I am looking to sell mine soon, too - not sure where you are located, but I am in the Chicago area...

Thanks for the information, I've run out of room. I really need to get rid of one machine or build on again.

I said goodbye to my WPT this week. Loved the game, but my collection is too small for 2 fan layout Sterns with Keith Johnson software... and LOTR won it on theme and artwork.

I will miss the game, but it found a good home.

Looking for some input as to what to look for. F9 (8amp SB) fuse blowing upon powering up. I believe this fuse if for the controlled lamps (schematically challenged)?

Here is what I would do to start. F9 is indeed for your lamp matrix or controlled lamps. It is likely you have a short somewhere on your playfield.

These are the steps I would take to track it down:

1. Turn off the machine
2. Remove the two connectors for the lamp matrix (left corner of board)
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3. Replace the fuse with a good one and turn the machine back on. If the fuse blows then it is an issue with the board, if it doesn't then it is on the playfield.

If the fuse blows with the connectors off then it is a board problem which is a bigger issue. If that is the case repost and we can troubleshoot that. My guess is it is on the playfield.

If it is the playfield then do this:
4. Turn off machine, do not reconnect the connectors
5. Flip up the playfield and make a visual inspection of all the lamps and sockets. Pay particular attention to the backboard of the playfield. This game has very little room at the back and if the playfield was pushed back too hard it can crush the lamp sockets (it happened to mine). Also check for any burned out sockets and broken wires/solder joints that may be touching something.
6. If you find one that looks weird check for resistance with a multimeter across the two lamp socket solder connections. Make sure to check with the right direction relative to the diode. Try it both ways (red and black/common) and see which works (give a positive Ohms) and keep that orientation for all of them. If it has zero resistance then it is likely shorted. You can do this for all the sockets and see if you can find a short.
7. If that doesn't work you can also check the resistance between the two connector leads you previously disconnected. Again making sure to get the diode direction right. On mine it was common/black lead to red wire connector and red lead to yellow wire connector. Mine read something like 20-30 M ohms on a good circuit. If it read very low or zero you have a short on that circuit. Check the connector and solder joints first as that is the most likely failure.

Hopefully that helps as a start.

Appreciate the in depth post! I fixed mine and wanted follow-up with the issue. I actually called Stern on this and spoke to Pat. Guy was super easy going and patient as I wasn't expecting him to trouble-shoot with me on the phone. Waited for me to remove the board ..... nonetheless, come to find it was a bad bridge rectifier (BRDG4 - you can see it in your photo). Swapped it out and machine is playing flawless now.

If anyone is interested it's a super nice machine, no wear or issues.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-world-poker-tour-77#post-7271592

Im working on similar issues. Stern did release a bulleting with your issue and it involves a stronger coil.

Not sure who sell s ace in the hole opto boards? Thanks in advance! JR

Mine turned out to be a flaky opto (the emitter). It worked great but I think it would turn off for a sec when the mech fired which made it think a ball was in there and then it would fire again. I replaced it and now it works perfect. By far the hardest issue I have ever had to troubleshoot. There receiver board for the opto is not available but fortunately the bottom on was. I finally figured it out by testing it with various part of the mech unplugged. I unplugged the receiver and it would latch every time. This is how I figured out it was electronic not hardware.

Hi! I have some used and new playfield plastics from WPT, you can buy spare parts, let me know if somebody need something.
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