Welcome back, 3rd time? You must have a love/hate relationship or just keep finding deals you can't say no to.

I didn't play a 30hr game - I played for 30hrs.

https://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/world-records/longest-marathon-playing-pinball

Right on. After seeing, repairing and maintaining 3 different games, would you say there are any little differences in the machines on how they play or are set-up or dialed in? Little adjustments or modifications that you liked? Lighting that helps or hinders play?

The 1st one I bought about 10 years ago, it was a mint HUO , completely factory set up. Had about 200 plays on and I loved it. Needed to sell it for other uses. Bought a 2nd one about 3 years later and it played like shit, it just wasn't what I remembered, but to be fair, it was a previously routed game. Just dumped it for what I paid for it. Last one I just picked up plays like my 1st one. This one was routed too, but cared for and then sold to a private owner. Cabinet is good, but the playfield is immaculate and the upper playfield is still clear. I have a basement that will hold a 20 machine collection, so this was one I wanted to get back. I like this game set to factory settings.

Just a note that mine was routed as well and you couldn't see through the upper playfield at all. I took it off and polished it with a buffer and plastic polish and it came out great. Someone recommended flame-polishing but I tried some sample ramps before and it is pretty easy to screw up. The polish is pretty fool proof and easy to do for anyone with a similar problem and essentially free.

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Nice work. Congrats.

Interesting experiences having routed machines as well as HUO. Seems like when enough small things get a little out of alignment or loose, it has a much bigger impact than just the sum of those little things. I also like the factory settings. I've played around with turning off the hold posts for certain sequences and that can change the pace of play a fair bit.

One thing on mine that I have noticed is that my left ramp assembly will jump a little if you miss to the right and hit the post instead of getting up the ramp (upside down scoop... not sure what the correct name of that thing is!). Like the ball will clank off it and it sure seems like the wire rail moves a little. I think it is the ball catching a tiny bit of air and hitting it from underneath, but not sure. Looking at the picture above of the upper playfield, it might be that the small ring on that post is at the same height as the larger rubber ring on the two posts behind it and then when you hit the front one it transfers that force to the rear one. Like maybe I need to slide that front ring down the post a little bit so the two rings aren't lined up and touching each other?

I also realized the other day that the upper playfield does indeed have alignment dots for those upper flippers. I had asked about that a while back as I couldn't see any. I moved my game into a different room and the better lighting let me see them.

One other thing on rules and strategy I just realized. Those triple score lights in the inlanes are activated anytime you complete a hand with the drop targets. I didn't realize that earlier. Simple and obvious, but I missed that somehow. I mean you end up making drop target hands a lot anyway, but now I know that if I have a big shot worth having the triple score active for, I can purposely make a drop target hand before going for the big shot to maximize scores. Like before you make a poker hand advancing shot up either ramp that will complete the hand with the river AND complete a city, I always try and roll over a lit triple score to turn the 1 mil award into 3 mil.

Can you take a picture of the alignment dots? I still don’t see any on my machine with a flashlight pointed at the mini pf.

When looking, try and get it so that what is behind the clear upper playfield in that spot is the white plastic piece underneath below the pop bumpers. Without that white background they are almost invisible.

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Looking to join the club tomorrow...can someone give some issues to look for with this machice...What is the cpu issue with these machines and was that limited to eary runs? Thanks!

WPT was the first SAM game had some issues. Stern issued a service bulletin (here: https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/sb163.pdf).

An opto shines through the upper playfield and can make the Ace-in-the-hole wonky. See recent posts where people have polished it. I replaced the upper playfield (Marco has blanks for about $70) and it was better for a while.

Drop targets can need an extra spacer washer if they won't stay up. I had this problem on the center bank. No big deal. (https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/sb165.pdf)

Large display insert in the center playfield can break its glue and be above the playfield. I ignored this, but it's something to look at.

Thanks man...deal didn't work out...machine was not is so great shape, average at best...and he was firm on the price...

I have purchased my WPT last week. The company I purchased from are getting it ready to pick up later this week or early next.
New glass, led's, redoing the flippers etc.
Also installing mirror blades and pin stadium lights.
I played it and it is fantastic.
I love the theme and the shots.
So excited!

Hoping someone can give me some advice.
Picked up my machine today and I think it may need a small adjustment.
When I hit a sweet shot in to the left orbit the ball comes around and goes directly down the middle.
How do I correct this so it comes back to the flipper?
Is it something to do with leg height adjustment?
TIA

If you're describing it as a sweet shot, I'm assuming it's going quick and pure around that orbit and so I would not think it is related to the leg levelling or height adjustment of the legs or playfield.

What I do think is probably happening is the ball is catching something just a tiny bit on that outside track so that when it makes the corner and comes back down, it pushes it out towards the middle of the game just a little bit more than it should be.

Start by checking that metal rail that curves around the upper right corner. You don't necessarily have to take it out completely, but it could be that one of the metal tabs that is welded on to it has broken off and that portion of the rail is sticking out too far. Or it could be one of those tabs just isn't tightened down enough and staying in place because the screw got loose.

Also look for any post rubbers or other target edges that are along that same outside path and try to determine if the ball is catching them on the way around. It is probably only something minor but significant enough on those fast orbit shots to get the ball off it's intended path and go right down the middle.

My WPT hasn't had this issue, but my LW3 game did. On the right to left orbit, if you nailed it quick, it would rocket right down the middle with no chance to get it with the flippers. For me, it was a combination of a broken metal tab on the outside rail AND a stand-up target that was sticking out just a little bit too far. Fixed those and was good to go. Which was a relief because it was super annoying to rip an excellent shot and your reward is losing the ball. As I'm sure you're familiar with!!

Post pics if you can. Maybe also show us how your flippers are adjusted at rest. That could be part of it too. And double check the left to right levelling of the playfield just to be sure that isn't it.

Cheers mate.
You are correct that it is going quick and pure around the orbit.
The company I purchased from did a full refurb so I wouldn’t think that anything is broken.
But I will check for that or anything lose.
I will also check that the leg heights are not different on either side.
I am loving the game but it is the worst to hit a great shot and be rewarded with a drain!
Thanks so much for spending the time to write such a detailed answer.
I really appreciate it.

I think I have found the problem. The metal at the end of the orbit looks like it is bent inwards just a tiny bit. But probably enough to send it towards the middle. I have attached a few photos. My question is how do I bend it back? Could I tap it with a small hammer if I put some felt on it so it doesn’t damage it? New to this so tell me I am in idiot if that is not a good idea lol! I think it needs to bend less than a millimeter.

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Silly question but my WPT says v1.12.
I see on the stern website it says version 14 is current.
So is v1.12 version 12?

Not exactly, 14.0 was the final code released for world poker tour, released in january 2008. the code version just before version 14.0 was 1.12, released november 2006. v14 has a ton of fixes in it.

Cheers.
I will install 14

Hello, i recently bought a world poker tour a few months ago and ive been loving it. Recently i have been having intermittent issues with someof the playfield optos. Although this issue is intermittent it does happen every game. Sometimes nothing happens when a ball passes through and sometimes they go off on their own without a ball passing through. The shots affected are the left ramp. the right ramp, the hurry up shot, and the cut the cards shot. ( Ace in the hole opto works fine.) I brought the 2 main boards in the head to a pin tech to get tested and he said my boards were fine and that it is likely i have 4 individual issues with the optos themselves. Has anyone had similar issues or have a way of troubleshooting this?

I found a never used original artwork translite recently and decided to put it back in instead of my alternate one. I kinda like things to be as they were when leaving the factory. My apron cards got changed out to playing cards and dealer chips and some stacks of poker chips were added on top of some of the plastics. Tastefully done though and I'll leave that as it is.

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Hey! I'm new here. Bought my WPT back in December as a project machine. It's been around: since its birth in Chicago it was shipped to Spain, where it was probably routed. It somehow ended up in Czech Republic, where it was bought by the previous owner and taken to The Netherlands.

The machine was dirty as hell when I bought it and was definitely never shopped before. It also had the notorious reset issues, which is why the original CPU has been sent away for repair. Luckily, for now, I was able to get my hands on a loaner CPU.

I've put leds (Comet Sunlight 2smd) in the GI to brighten it up. Some extra GI added in darker spots, mainly behind the right drop targets and the VUK. I've fitted the pop bumpers with Britecaps Evo and love how that looks.

The feature lights are all led too, with a Led OCD board installed to make them fade like they should. Looks great. The rubbers are Glow-in-the-Dark, which gives a cool green glow to them when the machine turns off the GI while you play in a dark room.

I've replaced the kitchy original silver t-molding for black/silver, which looks much better. For the ugly machine that WPT is, I like to think this one really turned out quite nice.

I'm using Pinball Browser to tweak the bland original soundtrack. The goal: to make the machine more appealing to play because of the variety in its soundtrack. The main track stays the same, while all modes get their own track to fit that specific mode. This really makes it feel more like an accomplishment when you reach a certain goal. It also makes it easy to know which mode is running without having to check the display.

Up until now I've been able to cram these artists in there: Kenny Rogers, ZZ Top, Elvis, George Strait, Clint Black, Lady Gaga, 2 Unlimited, Bruce Springsteen, Kanye West & Jay-Z, Faithless & Avicii, Yello, Motörhead, Beach Boys, Boney M, 2-Pac & Dr. Dre. So yeah, quite a mixed bag. But I do think it works well. Especially since the theme of poker does not really have its own distinctive soundtrack or style. (I would never do this to my LotR )

I'll post a video of the machine in action with its new soundtrack once that's sort of finished. If anybody has any music or sound recommendations that work well: let me know!
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Hi! Who can tell me this part must be covered by nickel or zinc? or it must be clean steel?

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Hmm, gotta be honest: I expected a bit more interest in or even enthusiasm for a new member with a nice looking copy of the game and workings on a new soundtrack.

What's up, WPT community? Are you even alive?

That's a very nice machine. This forum can be a little quiet.

It’s pretty stagnant. There are limited mods, mostly translites and poker chips and a bit of much needed lighting. WPT is a solid machine, so there isn’t many tech posts.

I am having a slight issue where two balls will sometimes get stuck in the "Cut a Card" hole during multi-ball. They get stacked behind the gate and won't eject to the upper playfield. I was tempted to remove the gate but then balls reject during single ball play. Anyone have a solution to this? It seems to be inherent in the design of the game.

Do you have a close-up picture of this area on your game? Mine doesn't do this thing you're describing. Maybe yours is missing a small bracket or similar? I can compare to my own if I know what yours looks like.

I took it apart and reinstalled the wire gate and now I can't get it to replicate the issue so I guess I fixed it? Maybe the gate was bent or something. Anyway, thanks for the offer.

Hi guys,
Sorry if this is a real newbie question.
I am just learning to maintain my WPT as it is my first machine.
After launching the ball, the coil to shoot it to the upper playfield is intermittently not getting enough power to shoot it up.
So it is sometimes taking a few tries.
Can the coil strength be adjusted in settings or will it need to be replaced or repaired?
TIA

No power settings for an individual coil like this. Most likely is the plastic sleeve inside the coil is worn out/dirty and needs to be replaced.

This is a really good thing to replace if you're new to maintenance. Simple access and straightforward to disassemble and then reassemble.

The bracket that holds the end of the coil down and in place can be unscrewed with two screws/nuts. Once that is loose, you can tilt the coil out with the plunger and spring still in it. You don't need to unsolder anything to do this. Plunger should just slide out. Remove it, inspect it, place it aside for a moment.

Inspect the spring. Make note of how it was installed. Do this for everything you take apart. In fact, take lots of pictures of your own before you start so you know how it was installed.

The coil should now be in your hand (with the wires still attached). See if the plastic sleeve slides out. It is probably filthy. Normally you replace those as opposed to clean them, so you'll need to be buying replacement parts from time to time. Sleeves are pretty universal but they aren't all the same size. Diameters, lengths and also how that collar on the end is. Notice how you can only slide the sleeve in from one direction? Remember how it was when you took it apart and reassemble the same way. Or even better, download the WPT manual from the Stern website and then look up that part in the manual and confirm it is correct.

WPT has an incredible manual with colour so you picked a good game to have that as a resource. Some of the many games from Bally and Williams in the 90s are spectacular games with craptacular manuals lol.

Let us know how you did.

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Cheers Alex. I really appreciate the detailed answer! I will follow your instructions and let you know how I go. Is it possible to clean the plastic sleeve or should I only replace it?

They're really inexpensive. I get them in a bag with a couple in various sizes so I have them for different coils. That way if a flipper is ever sluggish I have the sleeve handy.

Welcome to the clubs, @shaqatak! The pinball club and the WPT club, that is.

You chose a lovely game to start your collection with! WPT is very challenging. Does yours have the most recent software? It's worth it.

Nice thing about the sleeves being common sizes across pinball machines is that if you buy a kit, you can use them in other games as needed.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CS1992

Looking to join the club if you're looking to sell....

"Player 1 had a great game!" Wow, no kidding, Vince!

Crazy game on WPT tonight. Got all the cities done, got all the drop-target hands done and was one poker corner mode away from the ole grande finale. Stacked upon stacked and the scores went bezerk. Fun game.

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Hi! Anybody have this part for sale?

Joined the club this weekend...I would like to replace the cabinet decals at some point..anyone have a set they are not going to use sitting around..reach out...in going through the machine I see the upper rear left gate has been removed...I believe that is a mod for this machine...can someone explain what removing that gate does?

It gives the game a better flow. Makes the right orbit a loop shot instead of it ending in the pop pumpers for no apparent reason.

I read somewhere that Steve Ritchie designed both orbit shots to loop back to the flippers. In comes Gary Stern, who wants more pop bumper action. Bad idea, but hey... it's the boss. Hence the useless one-way gate.

The game is much better off without it.

Makes sense..thanks for the insight...

I disagree actually, i think the gate makes the game more dynamic, without the gate it's fully symmetrical, the gate changes that. It also makes the mystery shot easier which is good as that shot can get very tough when the vuk gate gets even slightly bent.

The gate also makes all in multi-ball slightly harder by reducing ball speed from left orbit shots (in addition to removing double spinner right orbits). With juiced spinners, and two full loop orbits all in multi-ball is a very feasible tournament strategy. Diverting balls to the pops adds more danger to the right orbit and increases the value of side pots more often making them more valuable in multi-ball.

That's another way of looking at it. I guess it's a luxury that us owners can choose our preference and either keep or remove the gate.

Yep, fun to have the ability to change it, lots of games don't have that. But full flow experience is turning off ramp posts and removing gate.

WPT is the only game I have that uses the flat, coin batteries in the backbox. It's a CR2430 battery. All my other games using AA batteries get changed out yearly, regardless of their appearance or the date on them. I was wondering if these flat, CR2430 batteries are more or less likely to leak the way the AA batteries sometimes do? And should this battery still be changed out yearly or is there some other frequency that is better (like every two years, for example)?

Just picked one up and interested to know about the batteries as well.

Also, is the PF diamond coated? Not sure if I should be cleaning it with novus 1 or naptha

Lithium batteries don't typically leak like Alkaline do...in fact don't buy the alkaline, buy the lithium AA batteries for your other machines...

Ooooh, I like this. Thanks for the tip! Those CR2430's aren't readily found in the local places it seems, but AA's of course are everywhere. I'll look to get some Lithium ones for the pins. Cheers.

WPT is clearcoated, like all modern Sterns are. However, the clear is thinner than Bally/WMS WPC games.