(Topic ID: 79985)

World Poker Tour Pinball Club

By devils4ever

7 years ago


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  • 1,086 posts
  • 187 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 days ago by killerrobots
  • Topic is favorited by 82 Pinsiders

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There are 1086 posts in this topic. You are on page 22 of 22.
#1051 4 months ago
Quoted from UltraPeepi:

Is anyone bothered by the stop and go game play? The commentary and DMD animations are somewhat long. I love playing a mode in multiball, and bringing in other multiballs. It's all pinball at that point. But it takes a bunch of talkie-talk before I even get to start a mode.
Upper playfield ace-in-the-hole (stop) yields talk while I launch a new ball. That's cool, because I'm not held up, except to wait for the correct skill shot to give me another card. Launch (ball stops), a card is dealt. Shoot either ramp (ball stops), a card is dealt. Then, animation plays celebrating my win, the jet flies off to Vegas, Mike tells me what I am dealt (pretty long series of animations). THEN, I hit the mode start (ball stops), I am told about the mode I am starting.
As long as I'm in a mode, or a multiball, most of these animations don't play. But if I drain before the flop, I have to suffer through all of those animations before I can start another mode.
Most games have a stop at mode start. But WPT 3 stops (for cards dealt), and THEN the stop at mode start.

If it bothers you or you feel the gameplay is too slow, you can disable the stop posts in the feature adjustments menu.

#1052 4 months ago

You can disable the ramp stop posts in the game feature settings. That fixes a lot of the SnG gameplay.

#1053 4 months ago

I don't have my WPT anymore (got it for only 2600 new when they were going for cheap from Stern distributors) and had it a few years and liked it but I was wondering... anybody else have problems with the center drop target bank 'bricking'? Didn't see any mention of it in here. I tried fooling with the rubbers behind it, using stronger springs, changing the reset coil to a stronger one to compensate for the new springs, I just couldn't totally get rid of it. That bank just got hammered with those straight on shots. I would've liked the game more if I could have licked it, so aggravating.

Anyway I loved how all that normally relatively empty space behind the back board was loaded with all the cool mechanics.

#1054 4 months ago
Quoted from frenchmarky:

I don't have my WPT anymore (got it for only 2600 new when they were going for cheap from Stern distributors) and had it a few years and liked it but I was wondering... anybody else have problems with the center drop target bank 'bricking'? Didn't see any mention of it in here. I tried fooling with the rubbers behind it, using stronger springs, changing the reset coil to a stronger one to compensate for the new springs, I just couldn't totally get rid of it. That bank just got hammered with those straight on shots. I would've liked the game more if I could have licked it, so aggravating.
Anyway I loved how all that normally relatively empty space behind the back board was loaded with all the cool mechanics.

Got the same issue after changing rubbers (and even filmed it in slomo to find out what was going on). I found a solution posted on some other forum regarding stern drop targets bricking in general (can't recall where now). I simply dragged out the springs and hooked them about halfway up the spring. Problem gone!

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#1055 4 months ago
Quoted from uffieg:

Got the same issue after changing rubbers (and even filmed it in slomo to find out what was going on). I found a solution posted on some other forum regarding stern drop targets bricking in general (can't recall where now). I simply dragged out the springs and hooked them about halfway up the spring. Problem gone!
[quoted image]

Interesting; I have the same problem on that 9 card that you filmed. Is the spring easy to get to? I haven't gone under there in a while. Good to know tightening the spring is all it takes... I was dreading replacing the whole mech and then having some brand new card stickers while others were worn.

#1056 4 months ago
Quoted from MikeVarney:

Interesting; I have the same problem on that 9 card that you filmed. Is the spring easy to get to? I haven't gone under there in a while. Good to know tightening the spring is all it takes... I was dreading replacing the whole mech and then having some brand new card stickers while others were worn.

Springs were pretty easy to get to, I did it with my fingers. Needle nose pliers would probably work even better. Just unhook spring at the bottom end, drag out and hook again higher up on spring. Good luck and I hope it helps in your case.

#1057 4 months ago

Springs are easy to get to. You can take the opto boards off for better access if needed.

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#1058 4 months ago
Quoted from UltraPeepi:

Is anyone bothered by the stop and go game play?

Yes. But there are settings which will make it *not* hold the ball on shots to flop/turn/river, which help a lot.

#1059 4 months ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

Springs are easy to get to. You can take the opto boards off for better access if needed.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I never had any bricking on the other two banks on the sides since they are angled shots, only the center one bedeviled me because they got smacked so hard and straight on. Almost wish I still had the game so I could continue experimenting with it.

#1060 4 months ago

I don't recall where I saw it, but someone on here commented that when one of their drop target opto boards kept registering a hit even when it wasn't, they fixed it by replacing a small transistor or component on the board of some kind. Like it wasn't the opto pair themselves or the plastic connector, it was some little piece that failed (shorted or became disconnected, I'm not sure).

Am I going to learn anything from trying to do some continuity checks of the various components on one of these boards? Like to see if there's a break in the circuit to help identify what my problem is.

On my game, I have three of my four boards with a single issue. Two of the boards have a target constantly being registered as a hit (the 3rd target on one of the boards and the 4th target on another). The third board has one target that never registers even when you do hit it (the 4th target on this board). I swapped the boards around and the issue moved with the boards, so I was to conclude it isn't the electrical connector or the drop targets themselves nor the wiring going to the bank.

Anything you might suggest to try and narrow down my problem on a single board and single target on that board?

1 week later
#1061 3 months ago

So after owning this machine for a couple years it has started to launch balls on it own during play like unlimited multiball. I believe this to be part of Service bulletin 163. I have all original boards as the ribbon cables are still glued in, and have never been unplugged as far as I can tell. I am going to contact stern, but I am guessing they will not provide me a new board as called for in the service bulletin 163 since it has been 15 year since this machine was built. Are the updated boards still available for purchase if Stern cant provide one?

3 weeks later
#1062 87 days ago

Can someone remind me where in the manual (I assume it is in the manual?) it explains what the different circuit board LED's are supposed to be doing? Like on the CPU board I have LED 3 flashing quick versus staying solid and I don't know what that means. I am trying to chase some phantom registering of two of my drop targets. 10 of clubs and jack of diamonds. The jack of diamonds will reregister a lot during the game too even when you aren't touching anything and the ball is still sitting in the shooter lane. Like something is a little loose or vibrating. I pulled off the J1 and J6 connectors on the CPU board and when powering it back on, these targets were off. Which is good, except after I launched the ball and got the game going, they phantom registered again and then kept doing it. So somehow touching J1 or J6 is affecting them??

#1063 87 days ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

Can someone remind me where in the manual (I assume it is in the manual?) it explains what the different circuit board LED's are supposed to be doing? Like on the CPU board I have LED 3 flashing quick versus staying solid and I don't know what that means. I am trying to chase some phantom registering of two of my drop targets. 10 of clubs and jack of diamonds. The jack of diamonds will reregister a lot during the game too even when you aren't touching anything and the ball is still sitting in the shooter lane. Like something is a little loose or vibrating. I pulled off the J1 and J6 connectors on the CPU board and when powering it back on, these targets were off. Which is good, except after I launched the ball and got the game going, they phantom registered again and then kept doing it. So somehow touching J1 or J6 is affecting them??

Have you reseated the connectors on the drop target boards themselves?

#1064 87 days ago
Quoted from boagman:

Have you reseated the connectors on the drop target boards themselves?

Quite a few times. Not this latest go though. I was working in the backbox partly because of the easy access and not under the playfield.

In trying to map out how many connectors there are for these drop targets, we have the one that is right on the board itself. Then not far away, is a connector for the wire jumble. One of those per board. Then the jumble gets harder to follow as it combines with many other sets of wires. The last one I guess is the one on the CPU board itself. I believe this is J6 and also J1 (coming and going pairs).

I'm also a little suspicious of it being the ribbon cables. Mine look fine, but they aren't terrible hard to pull out and it got me thinking maybe that's the issue? I have replaced the ribbon cables on my other games, but all my other games are from 1990-1992 and WPT is not nearly as old (2006).

#1065 85 days ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

Quite a few times. Not this latest go though. I was working in the backbox partly because of the easy access and not under the playfield.
In trying to map out how many connectors there are for these drop targets, we have the one that is right on the board itself. Then not far away, is a connector for the wire jumble. One of those per board. Then the jumble gets harder to follow as it combines with many other sets of wires. The last one I guess is the one on the CPU board itself. I believe this is J6 and also J1 (coming and going pairs).
I'm also a little suspicious of it being the ribbon cables. Mine look fine, but they aren't terrible hard to pull out and it got me thinking maybe that's the issue? I have replaced the ribbon cables on my other games, but all my other games are from 1990-1992 and WPT is not nearly as old (2006).

Ribbon cables...on the drop target banks?!??!??? That doesn't sound right at all to me. Hold on...I'm going to go check mine downstairs.

No ribbon cables on the drop target boards below the playfield. Reset those again. Don't know what ribbon cables you're talking about, nor what they might have to do with the drop targets.

#1066 85 days ago
Quoted from boagman:

Ribbon cables...on the drop target banks?!??!??? That doesn't sound right at all to me. Hold on...I'm going to go check mine downstairs.
No ribbon cables on the drop target boards below the playfield. Reset those again. Don't know what ribbon cables you're talking about, nor what they might have to do with the drop targets.

I meant the ribbon cables in the backbox. I know there aren't ribbon cables on the drop target assemblies themselves. I've just seen enough dumb, unexplained oddities on other games when it comes to sounds and displays and other erratic behaviour that if it could have been related to bad ribbon cables, I would have gladly changed them out.

Having said that, one of my phantom targets is working again. On the leftside bank of 8, the top 4 (when the playfield is down) has the 10 of clubs not working correctly. This is opto circuit 3 on that board. The lower bank of 4 has the 4th opto circuit not working correctly and that is the jack of diamonds. I previously had swapped the boards around between the two leftside positions as well as the middle and the problems followed the boards. So I figured it couldn't be the game side wiring or connectors or backbox or whatever.

My tech guy said the boards were fine though when he tested them. I was going to do one last swap test and move the lower left board over to the right and see what happened. If the problem moves I buy four new (expensive) boards. If it stays put, I get to keep digging for the mystery issue. But to my surprise, the jack of diamonds is now working fine and so is everything still on the right side. So it didn't travel with the boards and it didn't stay put either. Yea, it fixed itself. Wonderful. Why? No clue.

Probably a poor pin connector on the board, which still doesn't make much sense since it isn't failing over on the right side. So maybe the combination of the left lower connector on the wire side AND the board with the poor solder pins made for an overall bad jack of diamonds.

I've still got the ten of clubs issue and I plan on swapping that with the middle board to see what happens. Maybe it fixes itself too. Or maybe the Matrix gets reset and none of it matters anymore.

#1067 85 days ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

I meant the ribbon cables in the backbox. I know there aren't ribbon cables on the drop target assemblies themselves. I've just seen enough dumb, unexplained oddities on other games when it comes to sounds and displays and other erratic behaviour that if it could have been related to bad ribbon cables, I would have gladly changed them out.
Having said that, one of my phantom targets is working again. On the leftside bank of 8, the top 4 (when the playfield is down) has the 10 of clubs not working correctly. This is opto circuit 3 on that board. The lower bank of 4 has the 4th opto circuit not working correctly and that is the jack of diamonds. I previously had swapped the boards around between the two leftside positions as well as the middle and the problems followed the boards. So I figured it couldn't be the game side wiring or connectors or backbox or whatever.
My tech guy said the boards were fine though when he tested them. I was going to do one last swap test and move the lower left board over to the right and see what happened. If the problem moves I buy four new (expensive) boards. If it stays put, I get to keep digging for the mystery issue. But to my surprise, the jack of diamonds is now working fine and so is everything still on the right side. So it didn't travel with the boards and it didn't stay put either. Yea, it fixed itself. Wonderful. Why? No clue.
Probably a poor pin connector on the board, which still doesn't make much sense since it isn't failing over on the right side. So maybe the combination of the left lower connector on the wire side AND the board with the poor solder pins made for an overall bad jack of diamonds.
I've still got the ten of clubs issue and I plan on swapping that with the middle board to see what happens. Maybe it fixes itself too. Or maybe the Matrix gets reset and none of it matters anymore.

More and more, it's sounding to me like a poor solder pins issue. You may want to remove the boards and inspect the pins themselves where they meet the boards on both sides and look for issues, like broken solder, loose pins, or what have you. In fairness, it's stuff that I'm not terribly good at seeing myself, so perhaps it may be best for you (it would be for me) to take them to someone else and have them inspect and possibly repair them for you.

I doubt you'll need to buy new boards, as it does sound like they are working in certain circumstances...that leads me to believe that it's probably related to the solder connections more than anything else, and that if the solder at the pins gets re-flowed, you may solve your issue(s). I'm not terribly good at soldering, so I'd leave it to someone else to do so for me, and pay them. It'd certainly be cheaper than several new boards.

#1068 82 days ago

Hey I just joined the club last week and am loving the game but I do have one issue if anyone has advice. The ace in the hole gate seems to have trouble latching in the up position. I took the mech apart and didn't see anything obvious. When I cycle it manually everything seems to work but if I do it electronically often the catch-latch doesn't seem to clear the main gate before it falls back down (it can't pass the cross bar before it falls). I don't see any obvious wear. I suspected that maybe the top position opto was triggering early but can't see how that would change (it was working when I got it). I am a little stumped as everything seems to work correctly and I am not sure what to adjust or replace.

#1069 82 days ago

Most likely a problem with the optos, yes.

1 week later
#1070 70 days ago
Quoted from killerrobots:

Hey I just joined the club last week and am loving the game but I do have one issue if anyone has advice. The ace in the hole gate seems to have trouble latching in the up position. I took the mech apart and didn't see anything obvious. When I cycle it manually everything seems to work but if I do it electronically often the catch-latch doesn't seem to clear the main gate before it falls back down (it can't pass the cross bar before it falls). I don't see any obvious wear. I suspected that maybe the top position opto was triggering early but can't see how that would change (it was working when I got it). I am a little stumped as everything seems to work correctly and I am not sure what to adjust or replace.

Just posting in case anyone else has a similar problem but as I mentioned above I was having trouble getting my jail lock to latch correctly. I thought it was the opto so replaced that but it still didn't work. I took it apart a number of times but couldn't find anything wrong. Eventually I noticed that the small spring inside the small latch solenoid looked weird and sure enough about 3/8" had broken off so it wasn't stroking the full distance. I found a replacement on mcmaster carr and now it works. It might fatigue over time so it is possible it has happened to others.

#1071 70 days ago

Hi all. I’ve been thinking of joining the club but what was once considered a great “value pin” has increased in price. Is this still a good pin at $4,000? Or would you get something else? I guess we cant call it a great bang for the buck pin anymore sadly

#1072 70 days ago

Still an excellent game with lots to do. Great implementation of "poker" concepts. Still horrible art.

As with every game... it's worth it if YOU get $4,000 of enjoyment out of it.

#1073 70 days ago
Quoted from Mattyk:

Hi all. I’ve been thinking of joining the club but what was once considered a great “value pin” has increased in price. Is this still a good pin at $4,000? Or would you get something else? I guess we cant call it a great bang for the buck pin anymore sadly

I just got this pin and so far I am really enjoying it. It was not something that I had any intention of getting but I played it on location and something about it keep bringing me back. What I am liking about it now is that it is just different than everything else I have. I think it is somewhat on the easy side and not a super fast pin. However, sometimes I like a more relaxed game.

The art and callouts are meh but honestly it has stopped bothering me.

In terms of the $4k, well the whole market is up and a rising tide lifts all boats. It is still a value compared to other pins. Based on reviews it seems like lot of people get tired of it after a while but if so then you can always trade for something else.

#1074 70 days ago
Quoted from killerrobots:

I just got this pin and so far I am really enjoying it. It was not something that I had any intention of getting but I played it on location and something about it keep bringing me back. What I am liking about it now is that it is just different than everything else I have. I think it is somewhat on the easy side and not a super fast pin. However, sometimes I like a more relaxed game.
The art and callouts are meh but honestly it has stopped bothering me.
In terms of the $4k, well the whole market is up and a rising tide lifts all boats. It is still a value compared to other pins. Based on reviews it seems like lot of people get tired of it after a while but if so then you can always trade for something else.

Good points. I’m glad you like the game. If I can find one for $3,500 I think I will grab it. I heard it’s a must to remove the left gate under the mini playfield and reduce the pop up posts to only work on the river to achieve better flow

#1075 66 days ago

I got a weird error when playing yesterday and wondered if anyone else had a similar issue. I hit a ramp and when I got the "flop" I only got two cards and it dumped my ball. On the playfield display it had four cards instead of five. Every time I hit either ramp it tried to redo the flop and still only gave me the same two cards. On the DMD is actually displayed the two cards but the third card was the back of the card (no value). I couldn't advance the hand so I had to restart. It hasn't happened to me since. I have v14.0 of the code but it seems like a software bug. I looked on Pinwiki and didn't see anything like it.

I love this game but it is becoming clear to me that it was made in the dark-days of Stern and doesn't seem to have the same level of finish as my other games.

#1076 66 days ago

It's a competition mode bug. Believe me I looked for it several times and could never find it. It's annoying when it happens, but it's pretty rare.

#1077 66 days ago

You looked for it in the code? Where you involved in this game?!

#1078 66 days ago
Quoted from killerrobots:

You looked for it in the code? Where you involved in this game?!

You, uh...you're joking, right?

#1079 66 days ago

One might think all the “X needed for Keefer Invitational” status messages might be a hint.

#1080 66 days ago

I guess I am just a little surprised the guy who wrote the code responded to my casual question....

#1082 65 days ago

Awesome, but weird. It never occurred to me that prominent game designers would be active on Pinside. Now I am going to be wondering if Pat Lawlor is going to be answering my Whirlwind questions...

#1083 64 days ago

I have a bad IC on my board and the part is obsolete. Anyone have an old I/O power driver PC board I could steal an IC from? I would make it worth your while.

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1 month later
#1084 7 days ago

Hi all.
I don't own this pin so I'm looking for a favor.
Can someone with an original shooter rod take off the tip and measure the entire length of it - from the end of the handle to the tip?
I'm hoping to make a couple custom shooter rods and may reward the first person to respond with a prototype.

Thanks

#1085 6 days ago
Quoted from G35R6:

Hi all.
I don't own this pin so I'm looking for a favor.
Can someone with an original shooter rod take off the tip and measure the entire length of it - from the end of the handle to the tip?
I'm hoping to make a couple custom shooter rods and may reward the first person to respond with a prototype.
Thanks

I can do it later this morning.

#1086 6 days ago

Looks like 8 3/8" from back of black knob to metal tip of shooter.

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