Quoted from Aquapin:Here is my first attempt at a new translite for the game...any suggestions/feedback?
I think it looks good.
Quoted from Aquapin:Here is my first attempt at a new translite for the game...any suggestions/feedback?
I think it looks good.
So I have put few games on the machine with the new code from Stern. I like it much better. With the new code I do have 2 Tech notices both left EOS switches. With the old code it did not report those. They both look cut so I have two on the way from Marco. While checking out the settings I found that this new code has the option to up the flipper pulse to hard. I set it to the hard. I like it. I don't remember seeing that with the old code.
Quoted from northvibe:I tried counting but just did like 60 or so of each....
EDIT: attaching my order. I think I only needed a few more bulbs of the socket style....
Did you use the 4SMD bulbs for Flashers (e.g. the red covers, like the one over the skill shot vuk -- I'm not too familiar with terms as this is my first pin)
Mine came with mostly LEDs but there are a few incandescents left in there and some lights are out.
Quoted from misterschu:Did you use the 4SMD bulbs for Flashers (e.g. the red covers, like the one over the skill shot vuk -- I'm not too familiar with terms as this is my first pin)
Mine came with mostly LEDs but there are a few incandescents left in there and some lights are out.
Here is the manual
http://www.sternpinball.com/upload/games/212/world-poker-tour/442/World_Poker_Tour_Manual.pdf
That should help with bulb locations and sizes
These were in my order from comet:
4 SMD 6.3V AC/DC SUPREME BRIGHTNESS NON GHOSTING *EXCLUSIVE* - #555 Wedge - Natural White
4 SMD 6.3V AC/DC SUPREME BRIGHTNESS NON GHOSTING *EXCLUSIVE* - None - #44/#47 Bayonet - Natural White
1 SMD 6.3V AC/DC SUPREME BRIGHTNESS NON GHOSTING 5050 BULB - Clear - #44/#47 Bayonet - Natural White
4 SMD 6.3V AC/DC SUPREME BRIGHTNESS NON GHOSTING *EXCLUSIVE* - #555 Wedge - Natural White
But I don't remember what went where. I think flashers are bayonet style...and I only got 1 25 pack of the 4smd bayo, so I bet I used those in the flashers? Unfortunately I sold my game already, so I can't look :/
EDIT:
HA! Found it. THose were all for inserts. One of my old orders with normal led (not the non ghosting) I had the flashers on, and returned all but the flashers aka #89 bulbs. Here is what I used for the flashers (red cap) on Wpt
8SMDG18TOWERR 8 SMD #89 1 ROW TOWER FLASHER - #89 LARGE BAYONET BASE - Red
Should be these, in red
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/8smdg18tower.htm
Quoted from Aquapin:Thanks for the feedback. This version has a stronger Poker element obviously and I added the Bills and Lighting to tie in with the PF art.
Like this rendition. Don't think it needs anything else (though I will mention that it looks like Bee and not Bicycle makes the official WPT playing cards
I am the only one that enjoys the stock art? lol I like your work but prefer the original
always makes me think of watching the show for hours while playing cards with friends.
good times
Can anyone take pics of the diode terminal strip for the start button? My wires were cut off, so I replaced the diode and soldered the wires back on, but have no light.
Anyone can point me to where the 4th 3/4" rubber ring goes? I'm replacing all my rubbers, ordered (4) 3/4" because the manual says so... But on the diagram I can only spot 3, all by the pops. Any help would be appreciated.
Quoted from blowback1976:Can anyone take pics of the diode terminal strip for the start button? My wires were cut off, so I replaced the diode and soldered the wires back on, but have no light.
Not sure which part you're looking for, but if you help direct me I'll take a photo. Take a photo of where the wires are snipped from, I'm new to owning a game so don't recognize the diode terminal strip by name.
Quoted from misterschu:Not sure which part you're looking for, but if you help direct me I'll take a photo. Take a photo of where the wires are snipped from, I'm new to owning a game so don't recognize the diode terminal strip by name.
Thanks, I’d appreciate it. I’ll grab a pic, and I can also check about the rubber, as I just did a shop job on mine.
Quoted from blowback1976:Here's a pic of what I'm looking for. And the fourth 3/4 rubber goes beside the left ramp entrance, by "cut the cards" insert.
There's a photo of the wiring of the start button on page 47 of the manual. I will try to take some additional angles tonight.
for the 3/4" rubbers, here's photo from the manual showing (3) but I can't find the other. This includes the one by the cut the cards insert.
Quoted from misterschu:There's a photo of the wiring of the start button on page 47 of the manual. I will try to take some additional angles tonight.
for the 3/4" rubbers, here's photo from the manual showing (3) but I can't find the other. This includes the one by the cut the cards insert.
Yeah, I’ve got the wires as per the schematic but still no light. Also by my rubber kit map, that lower 8 on the bottom right should actually be a 3/4.
While you have it apart, may be worth checking the welds on the ramps and vuk tubes (and possibly getting them reinforced even if they're not split yet, if they look weak)
Quoted from misterschu:While you have it apart, may be worth checking the welds on the ramps and vuk tubes (and possibly getting them reinforced even if they're not split yet, if they look weak)
Yes! Very good recommendation. Both my vuk and ball trough has weld breaks. Local weld shop fixed them up nicely
Does anybody have on-hand or have the ability to make a nice scan of the decals from the shooter lane VUK tube? I ripped mine when I removed them to send the VUK out for repair and can't find them for sale anywhere.
Quoted from misterschu:Does anybody have on-hand or have the ability to make a nice scan of the decals from the shooter lane VUK tube? I ripped mine when I removed them to send the VUK out for repair and can't find them for sale anywhere.
I swear I scanned them when I pulled mine apart. I’d have to look through my laptop scans and such. I’m traveling all day tomorrow but this weekend I should have a reply.
Quoted from northvibe:I swear I scanned them when I pulled mine apart. I’d have to look through my laptop scans and such. I’m traveling all day tomorrow but this weekend I should have a reply.
Awesome, look forward to it, thanks a bunch.
Finished my restore. Absolutely loving this game, very fun and much deeper than I remember.
- Side rails, legs and lockdown bar were chipped/worn so I had them refinished in red powder coat.
- Made new head decals, originals were really rough. Got rid of the bald guy, blended new & old art. Tried getting originals from Stern, but this game is before decals were being used.
- New upper PF and added LED pop rings to brighten up that area.
- Custom translite, image posted early. Old one was ruined from old beer spill peeling off the art.
- Added official WPT card protector in place of the plastic tourney cover.
- Put a red plexi film over the display in the PF. Makes the lettering more of a vibrant red and does not show all PCB/cubes (similar to red DMD on new Stern)
Quoted from Aquapin:Finished my restore. Absolutely loving this game, very fun and much deeper than I remember.
- Side rails, legs and lockdown bar were chipped/worn so I had them refinished in red powder coat.
- Made new head decals, originals were really rough. Got rid of the bald guy, blended new & old art. Tried getting originals from Stern, but this game is before decals were being used.
- New upper PF and added LED pop rings to brighten up that area.
- Custom translite, image posted early. Old one was ruined from old beer spill peeling off the art.
- Added official WPT card protector in place of the plastic tourney cover.
- Put a red plexi film over the display in the PF. Makes the lettering more of a vibrant red and does not show all PCB/cubes (similar to red DMD on new Stern)
Looks awesome. I'm just waiting on my last batch of parts, and mine will be up and running. Loving the translite.
Quoted from misterschu:Awesome, look forward to it, thanks a bunch.
found a scan, sending pm
Quoted from Aquapin:Finished my restore. Absolutely loving this game, very fun and much deeper than I remember.
- Side rails, legs and lockdown bar were chipped/worn so I had them refinished in red powder coat.
- Made new head decals, originals were really rough. Got rid of the bald guy, blended new & old art. Tried getting originals from Stern, but this game is before decals were being used.
- New upper PF and added LED pop rings to brighten up that area.
- Custom translite, image posted early. Old one was ruined from old beer spill peeling off the art.
- Added official WPT card protector in place of the plastic tourney cover.
- Put a red plexi film over the display in the PF. Makes the lettering more of a vibrant red and does not show all PCB/cubes (similar to red DMD on new Stern)
Looks great but add mirror blades. You won’t be disappointed.
Quoted from stoptap:Looks great but add mirror blades. You won’t be disappointed.
They are on my wish list, I have seen a few examples and it really complements this machine.
Finally got Poker Wizard on Saturday. Had gotten three extra balls (2 cities, 10 side pots and 10 WPT hurry up). Was unable to do much during it, and drained pretty quickly. Ended with a score of ~135M. Previous GC was 90M, which was before I cleaned, waxed, and put in new balls. Game's been screaming fast since, with balls hopping the wireform from the mini playfield.
Wasn't feeling too good about my score or how long it's taken me to get Poker Wizard, but looking at the two big games on Youtube (Bowen's PAPA, and AKM) the PAPA game has the outlane posts in the middle position, and AKM has them in the lowest position, while I've been playing with mine in the most open.
Now I'll have to start working on WPT championship.... and then finally Keefer Invitational (Seems impossible when I'm getting ~3M or less on AITH, No limits, and All In multiballs).
If you focus on getting to WPT Championship, it's not too hard. It's just ramps (a max of 63, but probably many fewer with mystery awards, skill shots and AIs)
I've come to accept that Keefer Invitational is out of reach, one of only 2 wizard modes I've not been able to reach * (Gauntlet on PotC being the other).
25 mil on each of the MBs is ridiculously hard. I think I've managed it a few times for each of them, but never in the same game.
NL MB is the one I score the fewest points on, then couple that with the fact that each subsequent MB is hard to get to and it becomes unobtainium. You really do need a lot of luck in getting the 3X lit and hitting the SuperJackpot to stand any chance, as you've usually blown through the stacked inlane multipliers by the time you get the triple Super.
At least AITH and AI MBs are too hard to relight and restart so can be ground out.
*of the 18 Sterns I've owned
Is there a way to adjust individual drop target heights? My Eight of Spades (Drop target #5) sits slightly above the playfield when it's dropped, while the others are flush
Quoted from misterschu:Is there a way to adjust individual drop target heights? My Eight of Spades (Drop target #5) sits slightly above the playfield when it's dropped, while the others are flush
Not individual, but there is two set crews on the bottom of the bank, it sounds like one side might be raised to high compared to the other. Take a look at that and see if that helps.
Quoted from blowback1976:Anyone able to take a pic of the clear plastic in the back right corner? Took it off to replace with a new one, and didn’t take any pics.
Found one on ipdb
Anyone else find the left ramp hard to hit from the right flipper? This might only be since changing to Titan bands. I'm wondering if maybe there's just too much taken out when the ball even just grazes the post to the right because of how grippy the Titans are. (Otherwise the translucent Titans look great. Would look even better with some added GI).
Quoted from misterschu:Anyone else find the left ramp hard to hit from the right flipper? This might only be since changing to Titan bands. I'm wondering if maybe there's just too much taken out when the ball even just grazes the post to the right because of how grippy the Titans are. (Otherwise the translucent Titans look great. Would look even better with some added GI).
You definitely should be able to make that ramp no problem from the left flipper. If you can't, then it's probably not the fault of the Titans. That being said, I like the Titan rubbers on some games, but other games I prefer to leave regular rubber on because the Titans just feel too dead. As far as the "grippiness" of the Titans, that should tone down once they get a little dirtier.
Joined the club a few weeks ago and I have a few questions.
What is the most up to date software 14.0?
Also I believe one of the previous owners must have done some wiring work because when I go through the bulb menu I get multiple lights lit when there should only be one. I guess I have to attack one by one, this is only my 2nd pin so I am still learning!
TIA
Dave
Not sure about your wiring issue, but yes v14.00 is the most recent code available from stern: http://www.sternpinball.com/games/212/world-poker-tour
I’m looking to join the club. Can anyone give me a cliff notes version of what to look for? Any potentially expensive / unobtanium items that would cause concern?
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:I’m looking to join the club. Can anyone give me a cliff notes version of what to look for? Any potentially expensive / unobtanium items that would cause concern?
Check for lip height and damage around the clear window.
Make sure the ace in the hole registers a ball inside (optos) and the teeth/bars register hits
Has anyone experienced the white piece of plastic on the left ramp not coming up when the game starts? So it doesn’t trigger the flop, etc. when you shoot the ball up the left ramp? Thanks for the help.
Quoted from pinballjah:Has anyone experienced the white piece of plastic on the left ramp not coming up when the game starts? So it doesn’t trigger the flop, etc. when you shoot the ball up the left ramp? Thanks for the help.
I haven't had that happen but I know there is a setting that can turn it on and off.
Quoted from pinballjah:Has anyone experienced the white piece of plastic on the left ramp not coming up when the game starts? So it doesn’t trigger the flop, etc. when you shoot the ball up the left ramp? Thanks for the help.
The white stop post shouldn't be what triggers the flop it just holds the ball and can be turned off. The optos right at the top of the ramp is the trigger so you might make sure they are clean.
Anyone experienced a bug where you cannot ever collect the turn? It's happened twice to me and it usually happens after I've played several stacked multiballs. Very frustrating but neither the ramp collects the turn or even the next ball from the plunge.
Quoted from pinballjah:Has anyone experienced the white piece of plastic on the left ramp not coming up when the game starts? So it doesn’t trigger the flop, etc. when you shoot the ball up the left ramp? Thanks for the help.
As the other guy said, the opto at the top of the ramp triggers the white post and triggers the next cards to be dealt. Run a switch test and make sure you're able to change the state of the switch, make sure the opto transmitter and receiver are aligned (facing each other).
Quoted from ksmmspt:Anyone experienced a bug where you cannot ever collect the turn? It's happened twice to me and it usually happens after I've played several stacked multiballs. Very frustrating but neither the ramp collects the turn or even the next ball from the plunge.
Is it only on the turn that this occurs? Sounds strange. On the next ball, you're hitting the Advance Hold 'Em skill shot and not getting an award? Do the other skillshots on the next ball award correctly? Aren't there some modes/multiballs where it doesn't actually award you hold 'em progression on the ramps. I'm not certain, but doesn't Ace in the Hole (if there's no mode, and it's the only multiball running) prevent you from progressing hold 'em on the ramps because they're tied to the jackpots. I wonder if the game state believes it's in AITH and there's a trough issue preventing it from recognizing what number of balls has drained.... or something like that. Test the trough switches to make sure they're registering correctly for all 4 balls (take all 4 balls out of the trough, enter switch test, drain 1 ball at a time, then again plunge one ball at a time without replacement.)
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