(Topic ID: 267373)

World Fair on off switch safety

By phillyfan64

3 years ago


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#9 3 years ago
Quoted from phillyfan64:

There are 2 separate line cords going to this switch. One coming in from the wall, then one going out to the primary fuse. There’s line voltage here with no switch cover.

That's a round about way of doing it, but works.
I splice right from the bounce switch, and always use
concealed contact switches..

#20 3 years ago

In the Winter. I work on many EM arcades and pinball and have to think a little bit.
The anti-cheat switch is on the coin door, and the bottom board has the bounce switch,
and also the (I believe slam) switch. Your pick shows the Slam Switch which will work
perfectly fine. I've tied into that also. Of course you'll have to extend the wires on the
switch, then de-solder one wires off the Slam Switch, solder it to one of the switches
wires (don't forget to first slip on an inch piece of shrink tubing), then the other switches'
wire goes on the Slam Switch where you de-soldered the first wire. If you illuminate the
Slam Switch all together, then you just solder one of each of the Slam Switches' wire to
one of each of the switches' wires, but for some reason, I always keep the Slam Switch in place..
For your line cord. Just like shown in the pic. Hot to the fuse, Neutral to the transformer.
The cord's neutral wire is the one with the embossed lines running on the length of the cord..

#22 3 years ago

That's the Bounce Switch. Last month I added an On-Off switch to a Cowpoke and Flipper Fair
tying into the Bounce Switch only because it's closer to the front, but I've also done the same
using the Slam Switch. Replay Machines have to be the same, but if you put a piece of paper
in between the Bounce Switches' contacts then plug in the machine, you'll find it won't fire up.
That'll be the same as tying in a switch. It breaks the circuit.
Back when, instead of unplugging at the end of the day, people would kick underneath the machine
so the Bounce Switch would very momentarily break, making the Lock (or Hold) Relay de-energize.
I much rather add a switch than kick..

#24 3 years ago
Quoted from phillyfan64:

Some people say that using a 3 prong and grounding all the metal, it puts the person working on a live machine at risk if they touch the side rails.

I actually only keep it factory and use 2 prong, but if grounding it could put you at risk, my guess would
be it would have to be wired wrong.

#28 3 years ago
Quoted from JethroP:

Leave the bounce switch in the circuit...just in case someone wants to bounce the game!

He'll be able to tie it in the Bounce Switch (which is close to where the On-Off switch will be installed)
without removing the Bounce Switch. Just have to de-solder one of the Bounce Switch's wires and replace
it with one of the On-Off switch's wires..

#33 3 years ago
Quoted from phillyfan64:

So does it really matter which switch I tap into for the new SPST switch?

I knew back when, just before closing, instead of unplugging, some kicked the bottom of the machine to
turn it off, but I never saw it listed as a turn-off or kick-off switch..
No, it doesn't matter, but I mostly tie in the (I guess) kick off switch since it's right in the front, and evidently
it was meant to turn off the machine anyways, although I am surprised Gottlieb put it there to have the
machine kicked. I thought it was there to limit abuse..

2 weeks later
#42 3 years ago

I've gotten very minimum voltage through off switches, and never had a problem.
On the fuse blown, this is when it's nice to have a 10 amp (even 5 amp) fuse breaker
on hand. It can save going through many fuses..
I have replay machines including a couple World Fairs, but not any yet set up..
I take it there's a Start Relay in the Control Bank. If you manually activate it, does
it fire up?
I can maybe see the 25V fuse, but the main (?)
You have a schematic? If so, I'd trace the light box sockets and 120V circuit..

#44 3 years ago
Quoted from phillyfan64:

I think the loose fuse holder for the back box caused the main fuse to go.

You wouldn't think so, but I'm thinking you could be right..
Years ago, someone local had a bowler sold to someone on the other coast,
and we worked something out, so I went through it. There was a short in the
light 6V line, so I put a breaker in that line and eventually got the problem fixed.
He sent it to the west coast and a couple months later it had a problem where
the 110V fuse was blowing. After being on the phone for a while with the owner,
I found out that I forgot and left the breaker in the fuse holder. Fast forward, it
turned out to be a bad 6V light socket that was shorting out and it didn't break
the breaker, so the next thing was to break the main 110V fuse which it did, so
your light fuse may have been arcing which had an effect on the main fuse..
btw: I've also gotten very small amount of voltage through 50V circuits quite a few
times and never had a problem. I've had 6V led lamps very dimly lit also when it wasn't
suppose to be, but no where near enough to show through the lens in front of it..

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