yo, i joined the club tonight. i'd say high-end players', maybe. $1900 okay? i'll post some pics tomorrow and we'll get to work. need sleep now. good night.
(Topic ID: 50131)
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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider weaverj.
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diverter needs some maintenance. is that a rebuild or just a spring? i'd love to find a cliffy set. my kickouts are pretty bad.
need a new ball? need a some plastics. not a big deal. have to do some apron touchup. need a standard coin door. the one on this thing is hideous. refuse to show you guys.
is it possible to run and not screw down the soccer ball? i just got a new one and it wasn't pre-drilled. it feels pretty snug without it.
Quoted from dleasman:Diverter solenoid has a return spring on it. There was a lot of detailed discussion about it a couple months back. Reas through pages 42 and 43 of this forum.
yeah, looks like i have all the hardware in there. the diverter gets stuck in the middle of the ramp on occasion. there's slop some where. hmm.
any brave souls repair plastics by cutting spare pieces and fitting them in broken spots? my right gate ramp ticket sign has a chip missing. wondering if i could cut a piece of a spare plastic i have and filling in the chip. not sure how i would get the color to match at all, however.
okay, i guess being a re-import, it could have oxidized some of the parts in there. i know my lock bar is really stiff.
so you're saying the metal washer is a little abrasive, and nylon would have a smoother action? and you're saying "bologna sandwich" the plastic ramp between two of these by adding a washer underneath?
Quoted from dleasman:Yes to all. But lubricating all the pivot areas as well.
pretty sure it's a height issue. when i have the playfield down and i move it to the right, it won't go back to the left the whole way. if i lift up just a little bit on the pivot point, it goes back.
quick fix: cut 1/4 inch off a post rubber, cut a slit, and put it between the metal clamp washer and ramp. works like butter.
Quoted from weaverj:quick fix: cut 1/4 inch off a post rubber, cut a slit, and put it between the metal clamp washer and ramp. works like butter.
spoke too soon. it passed the game off, hand-use test. not so much during game play. yeah i need something harder than rubber. it's a little sticky.
what is the diverter test suppose to do? go right, go left, go right? mine slaps right and rests far left in one pulse.
my drain trough, shooter lane kickout is a bit rough. doesn't always get the balls out. it goes into search mode for a bit, then a ball pops out. coil part # is correct and visual inspection was okay. is there a known issue or is this a little something with all mid-90s wpc's?
yeah, this thing is filthy. i'll check them out.
how do you take the start button apart? i assume there's an incandescent in there, since it gets so damn hot. i'd like to replace it.
i fingered out the start button.
how do you see if the trough opto leds are working? do they light up?
wish someone would have told me not to mess with these button lights. broke the extra ball contact holder. it's a snap-in piece. my extra start button was a bayonet type, so i was trying to twist the f'n thing. once i get it off, it looks like i need a smaller led than i have. my flat-tops look like they're going to be too big. man, i was screaming and yelling down there.
ty. i'd probably put a purple one in there even if you said white 
.
another quickie: what size screw do i need for a double star post?
Quoted from aerobert:I have a new ball (the rubber ball only). How do I replace it? I thought it was only the top screw and then you lift it off. But nope...
just pull it off. it's on the square post pretty tight, even without that screw.
1 week later
you're probably right-handed? so am i, and my hand-eye coordination isn't the same with my left hand.
1 week later
i was attempting to install some cliffy protectors the other day. i could not get the posts out which the protectors are suppose to go under. i put it back together without for now.
do posts screw out or get hammered out? i don't see how to screw them, since it's a polished round post. any direction or you need specifics?
do you guys know why balls would stick in my ball trough? stick may be a bad word to use. it just seems like there isn't enough inertia to move the balls down to the kickout. when there's five balls in there, it's fine, but when that ball locks sometimes the second ball isn't down on top of the coil. you look down there and nudge the machine a little until it moves down. obviously that shouldn't be a standard feature.
any ideas? clean my trough out maybe? that seems pretty random.
Quoted from RDReynolds:The pinbits protector solved these exact issues on my IJ. Strongly advise getting it.
cool. i ordered dos yesterday. excited.
if it's a metallic-railed tube, i say habitrail. if it's two side-by-side metal rails, that's just a ramp to me.
getting a lot of air-balls lately, especially during multi-ball. not sure what they're from. the fixed targets in front of the left ramp, maybe?
Quoted from bigd1979:Whoa...4 of your soccer ball inserts look way off?
huh?
i put new cushions on the targets in front of the left ramp. it's something on the left side. i get balls popping up onto the wireform, stuck on top of pop bumpers and stuck under the top right return plastic ramp.
Quoted from sohchx:Anyone else here in need of this ramp?? Reproduction may be available very soon.
i wouldn't be opposed.
Quoted from bigd1979:No the soccer ball on the playfield with the 5 inserts looks little off ? Probably just the pic .
yeah, decals were worn completely off, so the guy printed out new decals, slipped them on, then mylar'd.
Quoted from BioBa:Mine is red.
thanks. and the ramp gate lights, top to bottom, are red-yellow-yellow, right?
yeah, i currently have those 3 in the opposite direction. anything that says jackpot should definitely be red, however.
i removed really crappy brushed on from previous owner, then put my own on with fine point paint markers. worked pretty good. looks so much nicer. i don't need perfection, but felt i deserved better than what was on there.
now i'm debating whether or not to put mylar over it.
i made a little rubber c-clamp, probably 1/8th inch, from a black post rubber. i put it under the metal clamp on the topside armature. it lifted the metal clamp off the plastic ramp and improved the action.
1 week later
Quoted from mab487:Anyone know where to find the left slingshot plastic? I see the right one on eBay, but I need both.
same here.
guys, anybody know the screw size used to mount the divertor arm? i lost one of those little a-holes.
i need a replacement 3-lamp pcb for the coin toss, too. i can't fix the solder on that damn thing. where do i get that thing?
1 week later
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Quoted from Metzu:hi guys if you have to choose between world cup soccer and the getaway both in nice condition at the same price what would you choose
i own both, i like both, maybe WCS a little more. Now, for the average jabroni that wonders into my basement, WCS hands down.
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:1) the three lights for corner kick / kickback. Top and bottom lights not working. Put in new bulbs and new sockets. Neither one fixed issue. Do I need a new light board? If so, where do I purchase?
same issue on my FT. when i first turn the game on, it's fine. after it warms up a bit, i lose the bottom light. i think it's something with the connector.
1 week later
1 month later
still talking about the divertor?
i have no problems here; i wish i could say that for my other pins. all i did was cut a ~1/4" off a black post rubber, cut a verticle slit it in, then "clamped" it right under the factory metal clamp on the top side of the divertor assembly, right above the ramp hole.
1 week later
2 weeks later
not trying to be smug, but this is really the best resource out there:
http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets
these things have been slapped together with any parts laying around. never assume you have the original hardware.
1 week later
Quoted from chuckwurt:I need a soccer ball. Where's the best place to get one?
sometimes marco has seconds for cheap at shows. i got one in allentown for $10. maybe there's one close to you soonish?
if you're just talking about cleaning it, which should keep it from wearing down a little i'd think, i use naphtha.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Anyone have tips on putting the diverter arm back together? Mine doesn't fall back to home cleanly which keeps the arm out in the middle of the ramp when it should be all the way to the left.
I've messed with the mech under the playfield a bunch and cannot get it to move freely back to home when the coil disengages.
cut a little 1/4" piece off a post rubber. cut a slit down the size creating a "c rubber", if you will. place that under the metal clamp on the top side of the divertor. that will raise the metal clamp off the ramp plastic and give you smoother action. worked like a champ on mine. good luck.
Quoted from mattmarr:By the way, I believe that piece angled metal at the bottom of the right ramp is supposed to face down and in, and protect the end of the ramp from the ball smacking into it.
what duder said.
clean pinball machines are so sweet.
1 week later
3 weeks later
Quoted from mixmastapj:Now that I've had my WCS for about a month,...
glad to see you got a WCS. congrats. it's a sweet game.
for the vuk (vertical up-kicker) thing, id tear it apart and replace the coil sleeve. make sure everything is tight when reassembled. check that the entire assembly is mounted in the playfield hole correctly; it's not crooked. check the wires for weak solder connections.
you just need to protect the right side, next to the tackle insert. washers should be enough, i'd think.
2 weeks later
if you want to do rubbers, do them at the same time. just document each part you're removing. try to keep hardware from each section in separate bags or piles. the only unique thing i remember was hammering out the posts from underneath the playfield.
1 month later
i think it's the opto for an upper left flipper, which this game obviously doesn't have. clean the optos on your leftside flipper opto board.
game thinks there's a ball in there. is that an opto? try cleaning those. if it's a mechanical switch, it might be stuck on the assembly somewhere or the spring grabbed it.
2 weeks later
Quoted from HighProtein:Where are Cliffys readily accessible available for WCS?
2 months later
email marco. they have "seconds" at a discount sometimes. i got one at allentown last year for ~$10 i think.
1 month later
i'd guess loose connection somewhere. check/reseat connectors. could be cracked solder around male connectors, too.
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http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/2811/Bally_1994_World_Cup_Soccer_Manual.pdf
coils are correct.
1 week later
1 week later
i forget, is that on a pcb? has to be. switch the bulb and socket with another one in that row that works; see what happens. probably need to reflow solder on the male pins.
1 week later
Quoted from IceMaster:Anyone buy Game Blades from Tilt Graphics yet?
had them on my CV. have them on my SS and MM. buy 'em; they're insane. excellent customer service, too.
only bad thing is you'll want them on all your games. much like colordmd in that regard. pics of my stiff:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/scared-stiff-clubmembers-only/page/49#post-3823966
1 week later
Quoted from Wiggy:Sweet! Im gonna try that. Thanks.
anytime.
yeah, i bet the colordmd looks insane on WCS. switch to hi-res already!
had the same issue after installing a new kickout bottom plastic. if the kicker arm doesn't hit the ball square, it'll appear weak. check allignment.
1 week later
Quoted from westofrome:Did you ever figure out how to get those posts out? I removed the bolt from under the playfield and tried every deep socket I could (11/32, 9mm, 3/8) but nothing worked. Those round posts with the fat bolt-like bottom need to be removed for several Cliffys - two bottom saucers and the scoop. Thanks!
take a little phillips head, put it on the bottom of the post underneath the playfield, then hit it a few times with a hammer. to put it back in, place a piece of scrap wood on top of the post topside, then hammer it back in.
2 weeks later
sorry, how do you get to 4-5 ball multiball? i used to own one of these and didn't know i was doing it wrong. always thought i got 3 because i didn't lock anymore.
1 week later
is that circuit supposed to have two flashers daisy chained together maybe? you have any that don't flash?
1 week later
Quoted from allsportdvd:I have frosted Cyan from Comet but they look way too green in my machine so I went with ice blue under all the plastics which brought out the teal color much better than Cyan. That picture makes the bulbs look teal though.
Here is mine (though photos never show them too well) the only place I have Cyan now is in behind the goal itself
agree. i only use comet ice blue, pink or purple for colored gi. all other colors i've tried will wash out the artwork; even yellow. i'd probably just run natural white in WCS. gives you that soccer stadium feel.
for the assist kickout, make sure the ball sits center on the kickout arm. if it's only a glancing blow to the left or right of the ball, it will appear weak.
1 week later
don't worry about counting; just buy the 100 packs (discounted) from comet of the bulb you want. free shipping at $100, too. you'll need more down the road anyway for other games. trust me .
1 week later
Quoted from GLSP3022:Agreed, but not as bad as Demo Man was!
ha. had one of those, too. i remember there was a flasher underneath the playfield i never replaced, because of the disassembly difficulty.
are they comet frosted purple? i use those when i want to do purple and they're more of a pastel, which looks good on certain games, imo. everyone has their own though.
now for WCS, yes, i'd do bright natural white everywhere. you want it to feel like a stadium, not a hot topic. are there even hot topics anymore? plus, you're washing out plastics that are mostly teal/cyan. doesn't make any sense. eh, whatever.
2 weeks later
that's weird. i feel like superbands don't get dirty at all. i never clean 'em. and i like the bounce. really speeds a game up. regular rubbers put me to sleep.
it's funny because everyone puts superbands on their flippers which is where i think they are pretty bad, but no one puts superbands anywhere else which is where they really shine. oh well. it's like trying to talk someone into using LED's.
interesting. well, i've had regular rubbers on games at home and had to clean them all the time. white ones, anyway.
just get rid of the incandescents, and you're okay in my book.
don't forget the bulbs in the coin door and start button. i've seen those crack from incandescent heat.
3 weeks later
1 month later
i believe they got out of the group stage last cup, unless that was just a euro tourney i'm thinking about. i forget.
1 week later
good luck, brah. trying to figure out where something went 24 years ago is going to be tough. i'd say use your best judgement.
1 month later
i could see this being a cool option for my "keepers". sorry if this was mentioned, are they silk-screened or just print-out with adhesive?
2 weeks later
play it!
yeah, i've learned there will be something wrong with every new pin you get, no matter what the ad or person on here says.
1 month later
try some 5 SMD 5050's. you can get colored ones for under the domes, but i'd stick with white in open areas.
the incandescent color hue will look weird with everything else being natural white, imo. these aren't that bright. just play with the lights on; room lights.
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Quoted from Kevlar51:My 8 year old just scored over 5.5 billion! I’ve never been more proud of him
my high was 2 billy, and i'm a grown ass man.
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