(Topic ID: 50131)

World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.


7 years ago

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  • Latest reply 2 days ago by jorro
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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider ratshack.
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#3419 2 years ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

Your second last photo, the clear plastic above the "assist" eject hole is a hack job by someone. It should look like this.

Picked up a WCS over the weekend... I'm assuming this is not stock. One side of the header plastic is like this too (they loved their rivets). Anyone have a good pic of how this area should look?

Also, where does the Run plastic go? Seems like I'm missing it.

20171002_204721 (resized).jpg

#3423 2 years ago
Quoted from mattmarr:

This album probably has more pictures than you want, but it should have a shot of just about everything on the topside of the game. Also, the album is large, so it could be a problem to open on a phone:
CPR did sell out of the full plastic set, not sure about other places. The header plastic and one or two others are chronically broken on WCS, I feel like CPR should just run a full sheet of those. I put the plastic protectors on mine when I installed a new set and so far so good.

Thanks for sharing!

#3426 2 years ago

Where does this wing bolt go? It was included with the machine but haven't found a place for it.

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#3428 2 years ago

Thanks. Found the holes on the bottom, didn't know they were threaded.

4 weeks later
#3514 2 years ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

I remember seeing a topper that was a strip of flags, actually looked something like Sterns "Tournament" signs... but I couldn't say if it was anything B/W official.

Part number seems official enough, maybe an option?


#3530 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Thanks - I might be buying a Dredd soon with color and I might swap it to my WCS. I'm assuming that is possible?
If so, I checked the color dmd website and JD is out of stock. If these are interchangeable (assuming you're going Williams/Bally to Williams/Bally) why not just buy another Williams/Bally in stock like Junkyard?

They're out of LCD panels right now. They probably program them as-needed when they ship. All the color ROMs are available for free, so no advantage to buying a specific title over the generic one.

1 week later
#3555 2 years ago
Quoted from Knoler:

Hi everyone,
Doing a flipper rebuild, and discovered that my right flipper doesn’t have the coil listed in the manual. The manual says that both flippers should be FL-11629, which is a blue coil. My right flipper is a FL-11630. (Red.)
Safe to assume the manual is always correct? Does anyone whose flippers are stock definitely have 2 11629s?
From googling, it appears that the 11630s are high strength, and the 11629s are medium strength, which might explain why I get left ramp rejections, especially during long games.
Just looking for confirmation before I order a replacement coil. Thanks!

I have 2 11629's, left coil looks original.

2 weeks later
#3613 2 years ago
Quoted from mattmarr:

Not sure if this is the case or not, and does it take more than just activation of 78 to trigger the magnet for lock? That is, does 71 and 78 have to be triggered within a certain amount of time to have the magnet activate for lock? Maybe to prevent false positives or if 78 gets stuck closed?
I had an issue with a LOTR once where two switches needed to be activated in quick succession for the event to be triggered (Destroy the Ring); just hitting the "downstream" switch (in the backbox trough) wouldn't do it, even though there was no way to trigger the downstream switch without hitting the upstream switch (center ramp spinner) first. The spinner switch was broken, and there was no way to get Destroy the Ring to start without it.
I know you had said that all the switches worked in test mode, and maybe just double-check that as you travel up a ramp, all switches are registering (looks like it should be 72, 71, and 78 if your are going up the left ramp).

It doesn't require the ramp entrances to lock. My girlfriend has a knack for air-balling directly up to the ramp.

#3624 2 years ago

Marco replacement ball motor broke after about 150-200 games. Pinion gear stripped out.

What's the typical lifespan of these? Anyone have any info on replacing just the gear? Motor and gearbox are fine.

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#3626 2 years ago
Quoted from maffewl:

I just purchased my WCS94 and haven't done a tear-down yet, but looking at the pic, is there a radio-controlled car gear that may work? I remember racing them when I was younger and there being a ton of different gear sizes and shapes.

That's exactly the sort of thing I'm hoping someone knows something about.

#3631 2 years ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

What does Marco have to say?

Marco is going to replace it.

Quoted from nitrojcrawf:

Question, what was the reason you replaced the original motor? Should have lasted more than 200 games. I still have my original in my game. If gearbox is starting to fail it could cause this to.

Same problem - a gear stripped out within a week of shopping the machine out. When I pulled the part I noticed someone had put washers between the motor and gearbox to change the point where the gears mesh. This one appears to be an original part.

Too bad no one offers a rebuild kit for these!

3 weeks later
#3702 2 years ago
Quoted from hathro:

I picked up a dirty WCS94 a few weeks ago and I'm shopping it at the moment. I came across this crack in the right ramp. It's the perfect size for the ball to pop through! Any ideas on how to repair it?

My machine has a similar hole. A previous owner made a metal protector that goes around that U bend.

#3711 2 years ago
Quoted from Wiggy:

Got pictures?
My ramp is cracked at the same spot and I want to reinforce that somehow to avoid further damage.
Seems to be a common problem on WCS that spot. Any other DIY fixes people can recommend?

Here it is. Surprised there isn't a professionally made version of this.

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2 weeks later
#3778 2 years ago
Quoted from Wiggy:

Well, I was wrong.
There is only one red/white wire connect to the flasher. Should the loose wire be soldered to this flasher?

Looks like it. There is a thin red w/ white wire between the two on my machine.

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#3782 2 years ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Can anyone please tell me what it's supposed to look like to the left of the goal here? I seem to be missing multiple posts of some kind

Could you share what size ring you've got to the left of the goal there? Mine is the wrong size.

#3784 2 years ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

You mean the one going around the 2 teal posts?

Yes, next to where you're missing a post.

1 month later
#3942 2 years ago
Quoted from rollitover:

My machine is making ghost calls such as:
What a save!
The guy is a wall!
It is also registering hits when I have ultra goalie.
All of these when the ball has not contacted the goalie.
Thanks will check back later.

Check the adjustment + wiring on the goalie switch...

1 week later
#3968 2 years ago
Quoted from daveddd14:

Thanks for all of the suggestions!
After reading through the thread my initial thought is correct that my soccer ball spins counter clockwise during the game and then clockwise during the final against Germany. What is the best way to correct this?

Swap the leads on the ball motor.

#3985 2 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

I didn't start recording until I realized that I never heard the song in WCS before. Things are normal again until about 2 min when another short beat starts playing. Later on the music goes out and then comes back on a few times. I'll check which one it is.

That bongo song at the beginning is when you start a ball with the lock lit, before you plunge it.

It sounds like your audio board isn't playing the right callouts or music all the time, might be worth reseating the ribbon cable.

#4008 2 years ago
Quoted from smokedog:

Hey folks. First time owning a WCS! Just got it set up. Should the soccer ball spin constantly ? If not, what should i check? Thanks!

Check if GOAL is lit. If the goalie is moving, the ball should be spinning.

There is a setting to control if GOAL is lit at the start of the game, by default it is on.

1 week later
#4017 2 years ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

Got my cDMD installed during Texas Pinfest. LED looks great on it.

Just installed one this weekend. Looks great, except I need to add a baffle above to block the backbox lighting.

Noticed problems when you get a higher score. My girlfriend put up a 5.9B Buy-in game and near the end it was having problems displaying the score. It was either all white text or completely black, but it was fine when an animation sequence played. I need to reach out to ColorDMD and see what they have to say.

#4030 2 years ago
Quoted from mixmastapj:

In the process of my mini shop job (clean and install all cliffys) I goofed up my travel gate. It doesn't open now, and just always sends balls into the jets even if I have all the ticket stubs. Anything is likely to be that I could fix without disassembling the whole thing? It's a hard place to reach/take pictures of, but I can certainly try later.

Make sure Magnasave works, it's on the same fuse.

#4066 2 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

U.R.Flipper is upper right flipper, or in this case, the right side flipper.
This could be your flipper button controller, which is optical, and may need cleaning, or adjusting.
The Fliptronic II board controls 4 flippers. In the case of WCS, the upper flippers are the actual flippers, and the lowers are the 2 magnets (ball capture and magna save).
I would go into you switch tests and test the flipper buttons to see if they are reading properly.
Does the right flipper work?

I think you have that backwards. Solenoid/Flasher table lists the flippers as lower, with Magnasave/Loop Gate being on the same transistors listed for the Upper Right flipper.

I agree on the flipper button PCB possibly needing attention. My machine originally was throwing upper left switch errors because someone hacked the wiring to use the other opto for the flipper.

4 months later
#4325 1 year ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

6. I really like the machine, and after bringing the machine up to 100% with the “stadium lights”, fixing the diverter, and replacing the soccer ball, I’d like to put some LEDs with this machine. In particular, I would like the lights under the playfield switched out. I really want a brighter light under the “travel” notice beneath the left spinner. Has anybody done a “partial” LED job? I’m thinking about only doing the lights under the playfield. I am concerned that LEDs everywhere may make the machine blindingly bright. Does anyone have any experience on LEDing these?

I did my GI with Comet 1 SMD Frosted Sunlight White, it's not nearly as bright as a modern Stern - those use 2 SMD bulbs.

Sunlight white is perfect for the backbox, it illuminates the translight without shifting the colors like cool or warm white.

I would not put LEDs in the flashers though - especially not in a game like WCS that has a ton of flashers!

#4326 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinzap:

This caught me by surprise... I've only had mine for a few months now, but I'm fairly certain I've only ever seen it spin clockwise. Is there a way to test the motor to make it spin in the other direction manually? Or is possibly I have a switch/gear/etc or something that isn't working?

It only spins counter-clockwise during the finals against Germany.

The ball direction tests are in the solenoid test menu. The motor is controlled by a bi-directional driver board, so no gears/switches to worry about.

#4332 1 year ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Has anyone brought their machine at a straight up 90 degree angle like this or am I missing something

All the time!

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#4351 1 year ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Looking at the ball motor connectors it looks like I'm going to have to learn some basic soldering, but it's only 2 wires and youtube knows all

If you bought one of the Marco replacement motors, be aware the labeled terminal is backwards vs an original motor. If it spins backwards just swap the two wires.

2 weeks later
#4465 1 year ago
Quoted from wombat:

Do the 3 stadium lights just stay on all of the time, or do they flash once in a while? Mine just stay on. Thanks

Stay on, they're part of the GI

2 months later
#4650 1 year ago

For the backboard I used frosted warm whites instead of yellow, I figure it looks a little bit closer to the color of HPS stadium lights.

1 month later
#4793 1 year ago
Quoted from Jakers:

What’s the most recent software version for WCS? I have version LA-2 with L-1 sound.

You are running the most recent domestic code.

There's a program out there that will patch the game code with the lamp matrix driver code from the WPC-95 games which addresses the inherent LED ghosting issues.

4 months later
#5088 1 year ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

Hi folks,
I need to visit the place where I've place my WCS 94 for our charity project (Strasbourg's Hospital, France) as they managed to tear off the ball launcher.
I have no replacement now, do you think that I can get the ball launcher from my Mousin Around to replace temporary ? (sys 11b)

Yes, my WCS came with a shooter rod from a 70's Bally.

2 weeks later
#5096 1 year ago

Finally set my WCS back up and getting around to troubleshooting it. Figured out a problem today that was not obvious at all.

My power driver board has known voltage issues. It had also developed an intermittently weak right flipper, which ended up blowing a fuse the other day. I suspect this had been a nagging issue since the entire right flipper mech had been replaced at some point.

Put a circuit breaker in and the next time it went weak I put it into switch edge test. Holding down the flipper button you could see it rapidly blinking while the other side - one with an aftermarket opto board - would register fine. Switched the opto boards and the problem moved to the other side.

Crazy stuff. Going to replace the original since the aftermarket board seems more tolerant.

2 months later
#5225 9 months ago
Quoted from zermeno68:

Nice lineup here!!! I have yet to join the club, but once I do, it will look similar to yours.... Is World Cup a decent pairing to MET??
Does everyone consider WCS a fast or long ball time?

Fast to medium. No ball save after the initial one, high power (blue) coils, tends to punish missed shots, giant left outlane entrance, final draw scoop can be tough to hit when you need it most.

It's the 2nd fastest playing game in my collection after Rollergames.

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