Joining the club next weekend when I make a trade for a WCS that's fresh off route. My wife loves the game and she's looking forward to tearing it down with me and getting it all shined up.

Not gonna do a darn thing about the flipper wear on the PF. My $1k No Fear has a wear spot from the right flipper and I don't care at all. Trading my Viper Night Drivin' for it, so it works out even trading a fully shopped, working, modded pin for an off route players condition pin that we really enjoy playing. My wife appreciates a pin a LOT more when she's invested time cleaning it up with me, plus WCS has been on her "want" list for a while.

The mirror blades look great in WCS. I have a spare set and will be installing them in mine also because I think mirror blades or pinblades artwork adds a lot to the appearance. Give the playfield a self contained 3D world look.

Oh, and your LED choices look super too and that's how I'll want my game to look when finished. Bright, clean, well lit, no color bombed areas. There's a WCS locally on route and it looks like crap with colored LED areas everywhere. If the plastic is blue, then he put blue LEDs under it, etc.

Right, but they're used for accents and done tastefully. Not like you have green LEDs under the slings and the top left corner is all blue and washed out, etc...

I actually watched your video the other night and checked out the spotlights you installed. Most of my games have spotlights I've installed because of dim back areas of poorly lit playfield. I also like using LED strips under the backbox to illuminate the back area of the playfield, but it looks even better on WCS because of the stadium lights back there. Gives a nice effect for sure.

I'll have to see the condition of the wireform on mine when I pick it up this Friday. I was thinking of sending it to be brass plated along with my Shadow wireforms if it's needed. I did see the yellow wireform someone did and that looks sharp too.

Picked up our WCS on Friday and this morning I spent some time going through it. Repaired two of the pop bumpers with parts I had on hand, so that was nice. One had a broken mounting bracket and the other a broken leg on the metal ring. Also had to replace the connectors at J120 and J121 to get the GI and backbox lit up.

Biggest fix so far was the soccer ball was not spinning, but the motor would engage during testing. Took apart the soccer mech and I was expecting stripped gears and having to buy a new gearbox. But when playing with the positioning of the motor, I found it did engage the gearbox if the motor was backed out a little bit. Dug through my nuts bin and found a pair of nuts that fit the mounting bolts and were also the perfect thickness. So with these two nuts installed, the soccer ball spins like a champ. Apparently the original motor and gears aren't as loud as the replacements because I didn't think anything of the sound when play testing with the glass off.

So before you buy a new gearbox, play around and see if you can engage the gears by backing the motor out a bit. Pic below.

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Completed the repairs today and made a list of some parts I need to order, like the soccer ball, a plastic and a gate. There is supposed to be a gate at the exit of the kickback save, right?

Completely shopped under the playfield, cleaned all the inserts, lamp boards, etc, and installed all LEDs in the GI and inserts. Was happy to nearly use up a few bags of discontinued LEDs I bought from Cointaker last year in York.

Inside the cabinet was filthy, along with the playfield since it was fresh off route. But the cabinet looks pretty damn nice to me, if there's any fade, I can't tell. I'm also going to see about getting a scan of the lower playfield above the flipper and make a sticker to cover the wear spot. Doesn't matter to me, but my No Fear has a wear spot too and I figure it'll be a cool project to make stickers to cover the spots on both games.

I'm going to play for a few days and see if anything else is needed and then do the full topside teardown shop job and install a set of mirror blades I have when finished.

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Really? I had a few balls kick back down there and just figured they shouldn't be able to. Well good, one less part to order!

I think the stencils look great on the speakers and would appreciate it if they can find their way to my pin.

Skill shot seems to look really nice, the legs aren't bad and should clean up well. The wireform is fine for me, but would look nice having a new one or re-plating the existing one. I'll be sending out my Shadow wireforms for plating soon and might include the WCS wireform in the batch depending on price versus a new wireform. I traded the Sega Viper for this, so I'm very pleased with the condition and progress I've made so far and will probably replace the wireform one way or the other since I don't have much $$ into this.

Wish a ColorDMD rom was available though. That would be sweet!

Only time I used it was to test it works. haha

I've been keeping it in mind to use during a game, but to me the button seems too far away from the flipper button. When I do remember to use it in time, I never reach the button. I think it should be closer. When I had Sharkey's Shootout, there's an extra button along side each flipper button to raise an outlane post. I think those buttons are closer to the flipper button because I never had an issue raising the posts for a save.

Edit - posted a pic of Sharkey's buttons. This is how the magna save button should be - under the flipper button for easier access.

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Brings me to a question. Where should the ball end up when kicked out of the TV Award hole? Noticed that mine seems to go SDTM every time.

Here's another question, this time for ROM burners. I need to update my ROM from L-1 to L-2. Any idea if the size of L-2 ROM will fit on the same chip? When I upgraded my ROM for Terminator 2, the newer ROM needed a larger chip, so just wanted to see if anyone knew from their experience.

Awesome! Good info to know, I've never been able to figure out how to tell what size chip I have in the past and if the file will fit. Will backup mine, wipe it and burn it tonight.

I didn't replace the coil sleeve and coil stop or even inspect that mech yet, so will def do that and then adjust the scoop as needed. Exactly why I like playing a new games for a few days, to catch stuff like this. I have a notebook page almost full of tweaks to do, parts to buy, etc.

I just burned a non-ghosting image of the L-2 ROM successfully. If anyone needs it, just let me know. I'm sure you long time owners already have it, but putting this out there for new WCS owners to see.

Last night I also disassembled each kick out mech for the 3 holes. New coils, springs and removed the cotter pin on the kicker and cleaned the black gunk in there. So now the TV Award most of the time kicks to the end of the left flipper, still a few STDM, but not everytime. So I'll tweak it a bit to get it consistent. The left free kick hole's kicker was weak because of gunk in the kicker itself and it didn't move very freely.

So if you're having any issues with the kicker holes, a cleaning of the kicker part by removing the cotter pin will do the trick.

Tonight or tomorrow I need to clean and rebuild the pops because they aren't getting enough action. I already have the new spoons for them and all other parts, so those pops will be really hopping soon.

Show your custom instruction cards if you have them. I need a set for the game and am looking now but haven't found any I really like yet.

Same rom version, I just patched it to be non-ghosting for LEDs. I used LEDs I bought at a big discount at a show and they weren't bad, but did have a slight flicker if looking closely. This patch eliminated any ghosting I could see.

Yeah I like those cards. I can't access the pinballrebel site at work, so I couldn't see what they had, but the pinballcards.com doesn't have any.

Used "dleasman's" excellent idea of installing white LED strips above the stadium light decals in the back of the game. I already had a pair of Comet 6 LED strips in my parts, so I quickly wired them up to GI and it looks FANTASTIC! Actually looks like those decals are real lights and it give much needed light in the back corners.

Will look even better once I shop the topside of the playfield and get those ramps sparkly clean.

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What is that, the Striker hideout hole to the right of the goal? There's a red one on that bulb, which is how I got it.

Question. Is it a normal shooter rod with rubber on the tip in WCS? I don't have rubber on my shooter and the end of the rod is totally flat.

Edit - didn't mean to send this message until I checked the manual. Guys, I gotta send you a pic of this shooter rod that is totally pancaked.

I just made a new shooter rod. I had a new blank rod and I drilled a 3/8" hole in a soccer foosball. Add epoxy and fit the rod in and let it set.

But do you believe I don't have a shooter rod rubber tip?!? Added to the parts list.

The balls will all be replaced when I shop the topside of the playfield.

Just got the game and it was fresh off route. Lots of games were played with it. I'll take pics later when I installed the new rod. I've personally never seen a rod this bad.

Here you go, let me know if you need any more.

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I just order those same decals for the standup targets. They look really nice.

Of course I have every rubber I need except the shooter tip.

What protectors are you using? Not sure what to look for in your pic.

For that price you shouldn't even have to shop the game, let alone replace the ramps. LEDs should also be installed along with a new ball if one was needed.

I used short LED strips and just clipped them to each lamp and then secured in place using since they have adhesive backing on them. Done and done.

I happened to have extras on hand that I ordered from Comet I think. Each strip comes with adapters for clips, wedge and bayonet sockets. I had a spare blue and green strip on hand so those are the colors I used. Blue paint tape works well to block light from creeping into any nearby inserts too. Can make a little tape wall around the strips to prevent light leakage

I just received the decals in the mail from an eBay seller. I think they look sharp, especially the Free Kick decal.

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Maybe the strips I have aren't from Comet then, because the white strip and the green strip I'm using now don't ghost at all. I used blue paint tape and stuck them in place no problemo. Also use the tape to wall around the strips so the Free Kick insert doesn't show any of the light thru. I always use the clips on my games and never had an issue either, they aren't going to just fall off or anything.

ebay.com link: itm

Wait, I forgot I am running a non-ghosting patched ROM, so that's likely why my LED strips don't ghost. Pretty sure they are from Comet.

Installed an alternate translite today to see about ditching the Striker dog.

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One on Pinside in CT just reduced to $2100.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-world-cup-soccer-bally-1994-2015#post-3278139

Looking for a "header" plastic and the plastic that goes under and alongside the left ramp. Can be used and cracked, just looking for ones that aren't broken. Rather not buy new if possible. I'll actually leave that ramp plastic broken instead of wasting $$ on a new one since I can't see it when playing, but would like to have an intact header plastic.

This is that other plastic:

ebay.com link: GENUINE NOS world cup soccer 94 playfield plastic 31 1925 21

Thanks for that heads up. Stinks he doesn't have the two plastics I need in that bunch.

Almost looks like a flower border from a distance.

I dig the topper though. Although with my alt translite having a large soccer ball on it, I think it would be overkill for my game. So glad I ditched that dumb dog Striker. haha

Where should I begin looking to find what's causing the 906 bulbs in the backbox to glow and lock on super bright and super hot? Playfield flashers works fine.

Right now I need to keep all the flashers out of the backbox and sometimes plugging in a 906 bulb will cause a coil or coils on the playfield to activate. Not sure which coils because I don't want to keep a bulb in too long. Pretty sure those flashers are what caused my J120 connector to melt (backbox gi bulbs).

Edit - I posted before without thinking too much into it. Now that I have, I'll check the transistor that controls those backbox flashers.

I need a new ball for my WCS and have been thinking I'll probably go with the blemished Marco ball just to save some $$.

What about putting some mylar around the bottom edge of the ball to make the "ring of wear" easier to clean? Would that hinder pinballs from spinning off of it?

Might be Overkill but it's cheap and easy and might be worth doing. I'll give it a shot and see what happens but if I don't feel it's working out well easy enough to remove.

Please do.

Just ordered a ball along with some other parts I needed. Thanks for the tip.

Which transistor is for the backbox flashers?

Page 2-48 of the manual shows the solenoid/flashers table, but I don't see mention of the flashers in the backbox.

http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/2811/Bally_1994_World_Cup_Soccer_Manual.pdf

Received the soccer ball from Little Shop of Games and it looks good to me.

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I have a bad Q10 triac which is the cause of the right side playfield GI out and likely the cause of the backbox flashers not working. I tested all the other flasher transistors are they're good and a diagram in the manual shows the triacs handle backbox lighting. A blown C11 capacitor did this damage and I have a spare ready, but not the triac. Ordered 10 for $9.95 w/ free shipping on eBay.

Got my order of various rubber and finally have a rubber tip for a new shooter rod I made. I had to remove the shooter assembly and hacksaw the mushroomed tip off. Then I used a new shooter rod and installed a soccer foosball and done.

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Yup, that's the old shooter rod - photos seem to got a little out of order. That's how the shooter rod was when you were over and setting a new GC score. No more metal on metal sound when launching balls now.

Just finished the tear down shopping of my WCS. It was so filthy, but it played fine so I kept it in the lineup while I worked on other projects. So this was long overdue and looks like it belongs with my other clean and shiny pins. Still have to clean the lockdown bar area and the inside of the cabinet, but done for now with friends coming over tomorrow and house stuff to do.

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That makes sense about the angled metal piece. When I reinstalled it I was wondering what the heck purpose of it was....thought it was some airball protector.

You might want to reconsider those LED color choices because I don't think that will look nice when all the plastics and ramps are installed.

Here's mine I just finished with bright white LEDs and Comet bumper LED boards. Clean and bright looking.

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And Coyote once again came over and left with the Grand Champion high score on World Cup! I had just beat his score a week prior and he beat it by 350 million.

Yup, I added a 6-LED strip above each field light decal in the rear because that really makes it look like the decals are lights. I added a 3-LED strip under the Lock plastic and the photo has the light looking blown out, but in reality it lights up the yellow LOCK letters nicely. I did plan on adding spotlights, but now that the game is finished I'm not sure it needs any. Maybe one on the bottom of the left ramp return aimed at the Lock upper playfield area?

A green 3-LED strip and white 3-LED strip were added under the Final Draw scoop. Green is tied to the Final Draw insert and the white is tied to the TV Award insert, which added a nice effect during gameplay showing to shoot for the scoop when lit.

I also added decals on the standup targets and I try to do that on all my games because they add a nice finishing touch. And the mirror blades always add a nice clean appearance to any game.

Ha~! That's too funny because I was just about to post my 3D translite mod.

Yours looks really cool.

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I had to adjust the metal kicker on mine to get the ball to not eject SDTM. You can bend the kicker arm slightly until it kicks out where it's supposed to.

I'm fine living with my broke piece. I have yellow rubbers there and it looks nice. Hard to even notice when playing and of course friends wouldn't even know.

I do have a new header plastic and it's easy to swap out by removing pop caps, but then you need to rivet the hideout plastic back on.

I have a similar, just slightly smaller, wear spot like yours. I'm working on a decal to cover it and will let you know how it goes.

Aw man, that sucks. Sorry to hear that.

Fixed the GI on the WCS I picked up over the weekend and found all purple in the GI.

Before and after replacing the purple with white LEDs.

Also something cool with this game is the sound rom which has different music than my prior WCS. Must be another country or South American ROM because there are some FUNKY Latin beats that play at times.

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GTFO! It looks awful and dim in person and makes it hard to track the ball. Clean, bright whites is what I like in the GI.

I didn't start recording until I realized that I never heard the song in WCS before. Things are normal again until about 2 min when another short beat starts playing. Later on the music goes out and then comes back on a few times. I'll check which one it is.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Og8TU8qHZsu0CymG2

Who has the best price for a new ball motor? Marco has them for $69 plus shipping.

Today I adjusted the left flipper on my NBA Fastbreak. Even lined up with the hole like the right flipper, the left one doesn't quite go up as high as the right.

Works great for blocking light and also to stop the translite plastic from rattling on games with shakers.

Just listed my WCS for sale in the Marketplace.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-world-cup-soccer-44#post-4313213

I need to order a left ramp guard for the right side of the left ramp entrance. But I'm having trouble figuring out which part # that is. The manual lists those parts, but doesn't show their location in the playfield diagram - see attached pic.

Marco has these two guards listed for the left ramp, but looks like the same pic is being used for both.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-12811
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-12811.1

Anyone know which guard would be for the right side of the left ramp?

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Thanks, I got off the phone with Ashley from Marco who was super helpful. She went and grabbed both parts and we able to figure it out. Looks like the part # ending in .1 is the left entrance for the left ramp. I did end up ordering them both after going to my WCS to describe the left guard (my right guard is missing) and see it has enough wear to warrant a $9 replacement.

I'll confirm the part #s in the thread when I get them in case it helps anyone else out.

A few weeks ago I replaced the diverter spring that attached the diverter blade to the coil plunger under the playfield. It was loose and the diverter was sloppy, although generally work. I used a paperclip to secure the diverter to the coil plunger until the proper spring arrived in my parts order.