(Topic ID: 50131)

World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.


7 years ago

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  • 5,824 posts
  • 532 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by jorro
  • Topic is favorited by 189 Pinsiders


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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider mattmarr.
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#1972 4 years ago

Hey everyone,

Joined the WCS club a couple of weeks ago and it is my first pin. The game plays great and after a bit of polishing with some Novus, it play super fast. Really loving the World Cup finals against Germany, very satisfying to get there and then that match is a very intense 45 seconds.

2 months later
#2045 4 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Here is an interview with Tim Kitzrow....he also did Rod Serling on the TZ!

Anyone know if the voice that says "Ultra Spinner/Ramps/etc" is the announcer from Mortal Kombat ("Raiden wins", "Finish Him")? I tried searching once and couldn't confirm. Or maybe that is just Kitzrow too?

3 months later
#2305 4 years ago
Quoted from PinballBulbs:

I guess I'll need the size too. If someone gives me the size to cut soccer ball I'll cut them.
Had a few PMs. Shoot me a pm with your address if you want one too please. Not just "I want one "

Damn, I don't check the owners thread for a few days and I miss out on a sweet speaker mod ? That's freaking awesome of you PinballBulbs for sending out the stencil and obviously BioBa, you are the Steve Jobs of soccer-themed pinball speaker mods. A true innovator. Also, MK6PIN, your lighting looks fantastic and I will be stealing that style ASAP and telling everyone that comes by that I am a savant at GI lighting and designed that exact pattern all on my own.

On a final note, is there any shot more satisfying than freaking nailing the Final Draw when you are about to face Germany for the World Cup Finals? Hit that one tonight after a bit of a hiatus from WCS while finishing the game room, many air high fives were thrown out as I played alone in my basement.

#2328 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyo5050:

Thanks Bioboa for the speaker mod and pinballbulbs for making and sending out free of charge. You guys are awesome. Will do the mod soon.

Here here. My decal is in the mail, can't thank these two dudes enough!

1 week later
#2357 4 years ago

Speaker stencil just arrived the othe day, can't wait to do those grills up. Thanks PinballBulbs!

3 weeks later
#2453 3 years ago
Quoted from sohchx:

It's hard to hit for me!!! Ball goes almost midnight way up and comes barreling back down, or it slams into the post and comes back to the flippers at warp speed.

I'm with you. It's a risky shot for me too. Of course, in those days when everything is flowing and you are in the zone, that's when I can hit the right ramp.

The ball coming back at me from the right or left ramp is usually when I try a desperation MagnaSave.

2 months later
#2798 3 years ago
Quoted from pinlink:

Question about gameplay. Is there a setting that determines the difficulty to start mulit-ball? I ask because currently I only have to lock 1 ball then Final Draw is lit to start multiball. Seems weird that the upper lock switch is literally never used. Shouldn't I have to lock 2 balls, then multiball should be lit? I don't see this listed in the Adjustments menu.

The upper lock switch is used during multiplayer games. The game will release.the first locked ball when the other player locks their ball.

#2812 3 years ago

I started doing a topside teardown of my WCS for the first time tonight. As I was taking the right ramp off I noticed a picture of a cat on the part of the ramp at the back right of the playfield. Anyone know if there is a story behind this?

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#2843 3 years ago
Quoted from BioBa:

Would like to know too.

I probably hit the third skill shot more than I would like to, so maybe try a new spring? The manual lists the spring part number as 10-148-4, but higher tension springs are sold too. Or maybe something is misaligned somewhere?

On another note, anyone have a tried and true method for transferring and attaching the riveted metal pieces to new plastics (Striker's Hideout and the ball guide on the right slingshot plastic)? I did a little research, but haven't bought tools or rivets yet.

While I'm at it, if someone has a picture of the lamp in Striker's Hideout wired up, that would be helpful too. Thanks everyone!

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#2845 3 years ago
Quoted from flashinstinct:

This was my solution and it worked great I ended riveting pretty much everything on the game with this thing.

From the picture you provided red wire top / yellow wire bottom

Thanks Flash for answering both questions! Do you remember what size rivets are used?

1 week later
#2883 3 years ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

Agreed....I saw that too...looked great. It's in this thread somewhere ( think a couple times)....hopefully, they post again....

There is a link to view all the images posted in a thread at the top of each page (it's called "Topic Gallery", see screenshot below). I noticed this for the first time a few weeks ago. Not sure if it is new, and I am pretty good at not seeing stuff that is right in front of my face. Anyway, it is a quick way to browse for pictures people posted.

It's also useful in the powder-coated and Titan threads if you want to skip all the jibber jabber and go straight to the money shots. Flash's WCS restoration thread is a nice gallery of pinball porn too

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1 week later
#2898 3 years ago
Quoted from flashinstinct:

From the picture you provided red wire top / yellow wire bottom

Hey all, I finally got around to fixing this. Does anyone know how the diode runs across the lamp socket? Using the orientation and colors in my picture, does it run from red wire terminal to the yellow wire terminal with the white band on the yellow terminal side? Or does someone have a picture of theirs wired up? Thanks in advance for the help.

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#2903 3 years ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

Let me know if that helps, part of a picture during my tear down

Ah, that is perfect. It didn't make sense to me to run a diode between the two socket terminals, but I wasn't sure what would hold the diode if I just put it inline with the red terminal, now I see. Thank you very much!

#2909 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Too steep will cause that to happen as well.
It's easy to check your incline.
Have a smart phone? Android OR Apple?
Go to the store, get an inclinometer app, and place the phone on the playfield, see what it reads. 6.5 is what games are designed for, I run between 6.5 and 7.0 depending on the game.

I was about to say the same thing, it seems like this happens to me when I have the game faster. I just finished a topside teardown last night and after cleaning and waxing everything, plus new balls, I was having it happen. Even when I just do a light cleaning with Novus 1 I'll see it more. Goes away as I play it more and things slow down.

I figured you are just getting more rebound/bounce off the end of the top ramp when you've got a clean (or steep) game with the ball flying around.

2 weeks later
#2914 3 years ago

Just finished up a topside teardown and thank you to everyone for helping out with my wiring questions. I now have a Striker billboard and no longer have a credit dot. Besides the cleaning/waxing, I put on a new plastic set from CPR, Titan rings throughout, and carbon fiber Cliffy's on the saucers. I also want to send out a special thank you to PinballBulbs for sending me the soccer ball stencil for the speaker grills, they look very cool in person. Now it's time to get back to playing!

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2 weeks later
#2921 3 years ago
Quoted from mima:

Hi friends! As usual when working with the machines one never has enough photos, or exactly the right ones.... Therefore I need some help identifying what goes where in a few places. And a question about function that I didn't pay enough attention to when taking the playfield apart...
What goes in the circled holes?
And, what is the proper function of the lane by the ball? The lower gate binds in both directions, and the upper gate binds downwards. What if a ball enters between the ball and tge lower right bumber? No way out... What am I missing here?
Super greatful for any help /images covering these questions...

Top picture going from top to bottom is one side of the ball gate, star post, and star post. Bottom picture going from top to bottom is a star post and then a post with a white nylon sleeve. I had a toug time getting a picture of that last one, and it is the lock washer and machine screw just to the right of where the billboard is attached in my picture. I have some pics of when I did a tear down on another device. If what I sent isn't clear, just let me know and I can check those.

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#2927 3 years ago
Quoted from mima:

Actually it's a one way gate, however looking closely at mattmarrs photo I realized that my gate was in fact flipped around. But it still would not open, so I adjusted the ball stop at the kick-out by turning it slightly to the left. Now the gate opens and no risc of a ball trap.

Glad I could help. As a heads up while you have everything apart, the screw holes for the screws that hold in the metal piece that acts as a backstop for the free kick sauces were pretty blown out on my game. I wound up just putting in a screw that goes all the way through the playfield for some added support. I would have done a machine screw and lock nut, but I was impatient and didn't have one around.

The metal pieces take a fair amout of abuse and will mess up the plastics above them if they become loose. They are also a pain to get too, so if you think they might become a problem, might as well take care of it now. Not sure if anyone else had problems with these pieces, but I wanted to give an FYI just in case.

2 weeks later
#2962 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Hey guys!! New to the club! Bought this off a great Pinsider (Beebl) Needs shopped, but works 100%.
Few things:
Noticed on the speaker panel cover there is nothing covering the DMD. Is that part supposed to have clear plastic over it? Any place sell new speaker panels?
I need a soccer ball. Where's the best place to get one? Are there multiple options out there?
I'm about to do a topside tear down and clean the hell out of this thing. Any really tricky parts I should look out for? I plan to take like 5 million pics with all these Ramps and plastics haha.
Any alternative protection options for the saucers besides cliffys or those carbon fiber things? Something that blends in better?

FlashInstinct has a great thread of a restore he did with a ton of pictures. I just finished a topside teardown not too long ago and if you ever need any pictures, just let me know.

As far as trouble spots go, pay close attention to the diverter assembly. I know people have had some issues with that. If your Kick/Header plastic is still intact, you make want to put a plastic protector under it since that one is broken on a lot of games. The screw holes that secure the metal backstops for the free kick saucers were pretty stripped on my machine, so I wound up putting a screw all the way through the playfield to make them more secure. Only other thing I can think of is don't break the ramps, new ones seem to be near impossible to come by.

2 weeks later
#3018 3 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

Just finished the tear down shopping of my WCS. It was so filthy, but it played fine so I kept it in the lineup while I worked on other projects. So this was long overdue and looks like it belongs with my other clean and shiny pins. Still have to clean the lockdown bar area and the inside of the cabinet, but done for now with friends coming over tomorrow and house stuff to do.

Wow, looking good, I really like the mirror blades.

By the way, I believe that piece angled metal at the bottom of the right ramp is supposed to face down and in, and protect the end of the ramp from the ball smacking into it. My game has them on both ramps that way, and I think one on the upper portion of the left ramp as well. Just an FYI and I can take a picture if what I am describing isn't clear

1 month later
#3085 3 years ago
Quoted from Archon9000:

I've been wondering how to protect the large plastic piece that runs under the left ramp - the one that everyone ends up breaking (see attached pic).
I know it'a a matter of time before my new one breaks and finding a new one is difficult/expensive and replacing it is a bugger.
I saw these plastics protectors and wanted to know if anyone here has tried them.
Has someone used something else to protect this piece?

I installed the Pinbits protectors a couple of months ago when I installed a new plastic set. So far so good, no broken plastics, but only time will tell.

3 months later
#3255 3 years ago
Quoted from RonaldRayGun:

Does anyone know where this plastic goes?

Attached to the bottom right pop bumper.

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4 months later
#3394 2 years ago
Quoted from rollitover:

Said it before and I'll say it again:
Why doesn't this game have a color DMD?!
They do Popeye but not WCS?
What's up with that?

Can't wait. ColorDMD will be perfect in WCS.

#3404 2 years ago
Quoted from aerobert:

I got a huge picture dump from a member here. The imgur link is a few pages back. Unfortunately WCS is one of the trickier games to shop due to the layered ramps. Lots of things need to come off including posts when installing cliffys.

That's probably my picture dump . I put the link below for easier reference. As a heads up, there are a lot of pictures, so trying to view the album on a phone might be problematic.

I would recommend the carbon fiber Cliffy's. My WCS has the metal ones on the free kick saucers when I got it and they had warped pretty severely. I replaced them with the carbon fiber ones and so far so good, everything has kept its shape. Also, the Cliffy on the assist hole can tend to interfere with the kickout from there a bit, so it might take some tweaking to get it right.


1 week later
#3421 2 years ago
Quoted from RatShack:

Picked up a WCS over the weekend... I'm assuming this is not stock. One side of the header plastic is like this too (they loved their rivets). Anyone have a good pic of how this area should look?
Also, where does the Run plastic go? Seems like I'm missing it.

This album probably has more pictures than you want, but it should have a shot of just about everything on the topside of the game. Also, the album is large, so it could be a problem to open on a phone:


CPR did sell out of the full plastic set, not sure about other places. The header plastic and one or two others are chronically broken on WCS, I feel like CPR should just run a full sheet of those. I put the plastic protectors on mine when I installed a new set and so far so good.

1 month later
#3586 2 years ago
Quoted from mima:

There's also this with misalignment. That assembly is prone to bind some what if the assembly is just a tad of the sweet spot. And the binding of corse makes it appear weak.
Might be worth a second look?

It's tough to get this dialed in with the Cliffy. My machine came with Cliffy's on the free kick holes and missing the one for the assist hole, I think this is why. The assist hole used to be 100% sure shot for me, then I installed a new carbon fiber cliffy and it had maybe enough power 20% of the time. I did some tweaking and I'm probably up to 90% or so. Never dug into the mech much though.

#3597 2 years ago
Quoted from Jo4114:

What tweaking did you end up doing? I would be happy with 90%...cause right now I am at 0%

I repositioned the cliffy slightly (there isn't much wiggle room), repositioned the mech too, and finely sanded down the edge of the cliffy a bit to try to line it up flush with the assist hole. It wasn't very scientific and the assist hole was pretty blown out.

I did also do a topside teardown when I installed the cliffy (might as well at that point). I agree with mima, it is a PITA, but well worth. The game plays so much faster when it is all cleaned up.

#3610 2 years ago
Quoted from SunMonkeyAZ:

In my case the magnet isn’t activating at all. In my test I lit lock, held the ball over the magnet and hit the switch. If it was a strength or time issue I would have at least felt a little pull and heard the magnet kick on but nothing happened.

Not sure if this is the case or not, and does it take more than just activation of 78 to trigger the magnet for lock? That is, does 71 and 78 have to be triggered within a certain amount of time to have the magnet activate for lock? Maybe to prevent false positives or if 78 gets stuck closed?

I had an issue with a LOTR once where two switches needed to be activated in quick succession for the event to be triggered (Destroy the Ring); just hitting the "downstream" switch (in the backbox trough) wouldn't do it, even though there was no way to trigger the downstream switch without hitting the upstream switch (center ramp spinner) first. The spinner switch was broken, and there was no way to get Destroy the Ring to start without it.

I know you had said that all the switches worked in test mode, and maybe just double-check that as you travel up a ramp, all switches are registering (looks like it should be 72, 71, and 78 if your are going up the left ramp).

#3615 2 years ago
Quoted from SunMonkeyAZ:

Now that I’m through the lock issue, for now at least, back to an original question. Any suggestions for the center ball decals? Skill is gone and others are coming up a little.

Check out posts starting around #3210 and #3211. I think there are some users out there with scans that may be able to help you out (e.g. hammerhead , coyote, boiydiego).

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