(Topic ID: 50131)

World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.

By DEWSHO

10 years ago


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#5206 4 years ago

On my way from Kansas (to Ohio!) for mine right now. I'm super excited to finally own one!

#5209 4 years ago
Quoted from nitrojcrawf:

KSU to OSU. At least you have a great director of bands in Dr. Tracz

That we do!

On our way back

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#5210 4 years ago

I think the kids approve.

Now, to lug this thing downstairs, and without my dolly...

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#5212 4 years ago
Quoted from provato:

OMG the game you picked seems to have the L-shaped bases for the original topper!! Can you confirm with the previous owner if these are factory?
If they are indeed, I would like some info about them (measurements, distance between holes, photos, etc)

Pretty sure the topper came from Marco. I think they're like $30

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#5214 4 years ago

Does it really matter? Dirt cheap replacements can be had at any hardware store.

At any rate I'll get pics and measurements for anyone that wants them.

#5215 4 years ago

I'd say that pretty much clears things up, lol

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#5217 4 years ago
Quoted from perryd:

Just wanted to share some photos of a recent full restoration (New Playfield, ramps, Decal Job) I completed this spring of WCS all blinged out with chrome. Other examples on www.pookiespinballs.com.
Great working with this wonderful pinsider "Bladerunner" on his great games.
thanks
Perry
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I really like the art on the inside edge of the cabinet. Where did those come from?

#5221 4 years ago

The last pic I posted was from the guy I bought from. Here's my lineup (sans WCS which hasn't yet made it downstairs yet).. At least for right now..

Currently wrapping Black Knight 2000 (it's going to West Virginia) and I need to haul Af-Tor up (it's going to Louisville). In their places, WCS is coming down and I'm buying a space shuttle in St Louis. I'm already tired.

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#5222 4 years ago

Black Knight 2000 out (dragging that upstairs SUCKED), WC94 in!

Now to swap the Af-Tor (sold, not yet picked up) for the space shuttle I've agreed to buy, and my lineup is good for the foreseeable future

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#5228 4 years ago

I was watching that auction and grimaced a bit when it went that cheap. Then again, after the extra drive and any fixing that would have needed done, I'm sure I'd be a lot closer to the $3200 I coughed up for mine. Still, if you're local at all that's a hell of a scoop! Definitely go color DMD. That's the one thing I need to go after.

#5239 4 years ago

The only bad thing I can find about mine.. Sadly I don't think there's a whole lot that can be done about it any time soon. There rest of the PF is gorgeous.

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#5248 4 years ago

Tbh I had almost no intention of doing anything with my PF any time soon. It's not something I'm terribly comfortable doing and I just bought the machine. The rest of the PF is gorgeous, with a high gloss to it. Not something I'm too keen on tearing into.

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1 week later
#5275 4 years ago

Man. I can't decide how I feel about that. I think I love it but I'm not sure. What's the total cost, all in?

#5283 4 years ago
Quoted from joelbob:

Here is a link to video of it in action!

What about when your score goes into the billions? How's it look then?

#5285 4 years ago

Haha. Not sure why but for some reason the scores look crammed to me. But I'm sure it's like this stock too and I'm just not putting it together in my head. Looks really good and I was considering the color dmd anyway..

#5287 4 years ago

The more I see, the more I like. Guhhhh.

2 weeks later
#5315 4 years ago

Two questions:

Are gold legs still available anywhere? Would like to go back to 'stock' there if possible. Granted I could always just have mine powdercoated or something.

Has anyone had issue with the left free kick saucer kicking HARD on the first play after firing up the machine but not thereafter? Mine kicks like a mule--straight down the middle--almost as soon as it hits the hole. But subsequent hits slowly cradle into the hole and kick out more gently onto the left flipper. Behavior seems to replicate every time I cycle the machine.

#5317 4 years ago

Kicking around some ideas, thinking maybe powdercoating Iegs/rails/lock bar either gold or maybe candy purple to match the goalie on the side. Hmm.

#5321 4 years ago
Quoted from IceMaster:

My game is finally going back together. New ramps, plastics, and insert decals. I lost some when I removed the two layers of mylar that were on it when I bought it. It’s a reimport so a lot of things were wrong. I got the decals from Pinball Center and they look pretty good.[quoted image]

Looks great!

#5323 4 years ago

New pinballplating legs/lock bar/side rails (not yet installed, will obviously take a bit longer to get to). Just noticed I've got a bunch of lights suddenly out on the right side. Blah. No time to research right now.
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The coin door is going to go off for fresh powder soon. Going with the splatter black from PrismaticPowders which is what I used on my neo geo. It's fantastic!

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2 weeks later
#5345 4 years ago

I'm in for one if it's nice. I was planning on replacing this at some point anyway.

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1 week later
#5362 4 years ago
Quoted from dthomasset:

I grabbed one, since my original has a bad scratch. If I can get a decent comparison picture, I'll post it here when it arrives.

Just curious if it's showed up yet?

1 week later
#5373 4 years ago

Paid $3200 for my WCS. I'm perfectly okay with it. It had all the upgrades I wanted at the time besides bronze accents (working on those now) and a color DMD which I'll eventually add.

1. Coin-op Cauldron Pinball repair. WPC Power Driver board Repaired in 2012
2. Superflux Surround Flash Kit from Germany
3. New Soccer Ball installed in 2014
4. New Ramp Front 2014
5. Several new decals 2014
6. Pinball Pro Speakers, Full Set 2012
7. Full Set of Cliffy Protectors 2015
8. Several new coils including the flippers and kick outs 2015
9. Backbox topper, including toy soccer ball, and shooter rod soccer ball. 2016
10. New plastics from CPR Full Set Installed 2016
11. Original WCS(Operations Manual)
12. Full Cointaker Super Brite LED KIT 2013
13. New Chrome Legs From Pinball Life 2016
14. New DMD display 2018
15. New Rottendog DMD driver board 2018
16. Professionally bulletproofed high voltage jumper board installed
17. Ramps were flame polished about a year ago.
18. Goalie motor replaced in 2013

There wasn't a whole lot for under 3000 when I was looking.. But I'm happy with what I got for my money. Only a few 'issues': the soccer ball is a bit noisy, the left super kick hole kicks HARD, straight down the middle the first time after power up (seems to settle a bit thereafter), and eventually I'll want to touch up one of my star rollovers.

WCS is such a wonderful game. Great for players of all skill levels

#5375 4 years ago

I don't feel like the soccer ball on mine really affects much. It certainly seems to spin fast--and loud!--but I just don't think it does much to the pinball as I'm playing.

#5377 4 years ago

You're probably right. I'll give that a shot.

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#5378 4 years ago

Did pics of the new mirrored glass ever get posted anywhere? I'm still contemplating buying.

#5380 4 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Oh yeah that’s dirty as hell. Hopefully you’ll be able to get that all off.

The rest of the game seems much much cleaner so I assume the ball probably hasn't been cleaned in the entire 5 years it's been in the machine. I'll probably combine that with tearing that assembly down and fixing the noise. Then again, the stripped high speed playfield in my dining room that's begging to be sanded and hardtopped says it's far more likely I'll just do neither in the short run. Doh.

#5382 4 years ago

Ooo I didn't realize they had updated the page itself. Damn, that looks great.

#5396 4 years ago

I somehow ended up with two extra cliffys -- for the goal and for the TV award. Is there any reason whatsoever why I should keep them around / any potential ways to repurpose them?

#5401 4 years ago

Holy crap, I never even noticed how awful my switch slots look. Going to have to order a set of those I guess.

#5403 4 years ago

Looks outstanding! I'm continuing to fight one of the slingshot bulbs and it's driving me insane.

#5409 4 years ago

Wish I had gotten these on the machine sooner. Those slots are BEAT. Easily worth the $30 these cost to buy.
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Unless I'm mistaken, I believe that means I have every cliffy for this thing now. What a great product.

#5415 4 years ago

Imo, no sense in keeping cracked junk, but others may not agree. It's not a rare game, and there are plenty of parts out there. Now, something mechanical that can be fixed and reused? That I might keep around.

#5417 4 years ago

Duh, I'm an idiot. I'm not sure why I read your post the way I did lmao.

That second pic is actually mine. Seems I have both new and used extras for both of those pieces, as part of the lots I was trying to sell to declutter a bit.

Not sure how keen I am on splitting the new ones off from the rest of that lot but I might be game for doing that with the used ones. I'll get some better pictures when I'm home and we can see if you're even interested in them.

#5420 4 years ago

Apologies for the late reply. Last night was crazy.

Here are all the used (or just loose; I'm not entirely sure they were all actually used) plastics I have. I also have some various clear protector pieces.

Also, unrelated, but my machine says it was inspected by L Christmas and I can't stop laughing.

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#5430 4 years ago

I'm sure I'm not the only person pulling their hair out (now or in the past) over some of these stupid bulb wires. I've got several that are dim throughout my game and it's driving me nuts. My friend says to just repin them. Specifically on my slings I swapped left (full brightness) with right (basically half brightness) and the issue didn't follow the swap, so I'm fairly certain it's the wires/plug. Looking for suggestions on which parts to order, preferably from PinballLife if possible since I'm already working on building an order.

Also, I'm suddenly getting intermittent mixed results on the goal assist actually registering when a ball lands in the saucer. I've tried manipulating the microswitch bar but it never seems to fully resolve the issue. Any advice?

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#5433 4 years ago
Quoted from Grandnational007:

That's where I would start as well...
Also, you swapped the light boards and not just the bulbs, right?
As for the switch not registering, you can attempt to bend the arm on the switch up or down slightly, and that may correct it. If not, swap in a new switch, or from an interesting recent post, take it apart and clean the contacts, or soak it in a cleaning solution and dry it out. There's not much to the mechanical mircoswitches.

Yes, swapped the entire assembly, bulb and all, with board and it didn't follow.

I'll check the back box and see if I notice anything there.

I thought the same on bending the bar--it really is a simple mechanism--but it's still fighting me. It didn't seem to have any resistance on the switch itself but might be worth pulling out and examining outside the machine.

Drives me nuts to be fighting issues on this as this is by far my best condition pin and was one I hoped to just plug and play while I poured significant time into all my other train wreck machines. Guess that was a bit optimistic lmao

Thanks for the suggestions.

-Jordan

#5435 4 years ago

I checked plugs but nothing looked burned from what I could see. That said, I AM using a Superflux Surround Flash Kit and that does piggyback off some of the connectors.. So maybe I'll try removing that and see what that leaves me.

#5436 4 years ago

Y i k e s

Is it just me or does it appear that, rather than just stripping and repinning the factory wires, someone..uh... Ran entirely new wire with the new connectors? This hurts my head....

Say there were a plug that made the ENTIRE right side of the PF GI slightly dimmer... Any suggestions on which plug in the back box might be the most likely culprit? Or is this a completely moronic idea altogether? The multiple lights I'm seeing as slightly dim so appear to be all on the right side.

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#5438 4 years ago

Bless you. I can't read.

Hmm.

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#5440 4 years ago

Duh, you're right. I had my pictures flipped around, thinking the orange GI was on the left rather than on the right.

I'll try wiggling the connector and see what results that gives. It hasn't ALWAYS been dim like this but it certainly is now and it does appear to have affected much more than just one bulb on the right GI.

#5441 4 years ago

It's the connector or pins on the board itself, for sure. I actually got full brightness once or twice just plugging it back in.. But when I dropped the display panel back in, it was back to being dim. I pressed around on the right side of the plug and got it to 'pulse' a bit brighter as I did. Sucks, the boards were all reworked by Coin-op Cauldron, although that was 7 years ago...

Well, at least the problem is identified now.

#5452 4 years ago

Random, but I don't suppose anyone has (or knows where one can be had) an extra wireform set laying around? Any condition is fine, and preferably NOT in good condition..I need to send one off as a cow for bronzing and the one on my game was recently flame polished so I'd rather not have it stripped and bronzed!

http://www.pinballplating.com/quick-exchange-parts/williams-world-cup-soccer-wireforms-brass

-Jordan

#5453 4 years ago

Oh, and another random... Anyone ever tried anything crazy on the pops, like Red/White/Blue (thinking more along the lines of clear caps with colored bulbs/discs/rings)? Or does everyone just kind of stick with the green?

This isn't anything I'd do any time soon since my skirts are green and the color scheme would make that look especially bad IMO, but if/when I rebuild them, the scheme could be an option.. I dunno.

#5455 4 years ago

Shrug. I like considering 'different' options. My space shuttle has clear caps / white bulbs and I bet red/white/blue would be interesting. Granted that one is solidly 'americana' where maybe WCS isn't quite as much.. Except for the fact that you play as USA and striker is plastered all over the thing...

I'm going with clear caps and red/yellow/green on my high speed.

1 week later
#5458 4 years ago

My WCS is driving me absolutely bonkers. The right GI is slightly dimmer. Pressing on the GI connector in the back box does seem to get it to waver slightly, but not much. I had previously been able to wiggle it and get full brightness back (although it seemed that every time I put the display back in, it would already be back to being dim again).

The connector was repinned at one point (not by me) but I do see some amount of discoloration.

I've been dealing with this and will just continue doing so for the foreseeable future if it comes down to board repair (I just shipped off two games and I'm down to 3/5 of my lineup, one of which is RRRRROUGH to play)..but man it would be nice to get this working right again.. thoughts?

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#5460 4 years ago

Yeah, I figured that was about it.. my pinball life is sad at the moment

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1 week later
#5465 4 years ago

Don't believe you can change that. After you beat Germany, USA becomes the champs but afaik that's the only change made to the lineup.

#5473 4 years ago

Wish it were that simple a fix. I'm in no position right now to pull any boards and do anything with it.

It was definitely full brightness when I bought it. Meh.

#5475 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

I would then unplug the GI - it's dimming because of resistance, which causes heat. Your plugs are overheating and if not fixed quickly, can cause more damage - melted plugs, or even burning. Just look up 'burnt GI' on pinside here, and you'll see lots of posts, and likely some horror pics.

Right now it's getting maybe 10 minutes of play at a time, and that's on days I even flip the breaker on. I do need to fix it sooner rather than later.. Probably when my space shuttle and high speed boards are back. Just not really wanting to drop any more machines from my row until something is back up. Bleh.

I'll probably go unplug it tonight if I make it downstairs after work, just to safeguard it some.

#5477 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Ah, that's fair. Just didn't want you leaving the game on for a party or something, and making things worse!

Fair point for sure. My lineup is basically a trainwreck at the moment. I should do something about it.. doh

1 week later
#5484 4 years ago

I'm using the cliffy slot covers and my only gripe is that the left one occasionally slides down and the ball hangs up. It could be that I didn't get it fully seated when it was happening, it hasn't happened recently that I'm aware of. Overall I'm really glad I bought them.

4 weeks later
#5539 4 years ago

Potentially stupid question, but are the center skill stickers that cover the inserts replaceable? I have a few that aren't looking so hot.

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#5541 4 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

I wouldn’t sweat those... they look pretty solid.

For now, they're okay. I chipped a piece off Strength yesterday because I'm an idiot and I forgot that I had a Sega Genesis WSC94 game, in box, on top of my machine when I scooted it over to address a bulb in one of the pops. It came flying down and I'm pretty sure hit that spot with the corner of the case. I guess that's better than if the glass had been on and it shattered...I felt like a pretty big idiot regardless.

#5543 4 years ago
Quoted from IceMaster:

https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts/playfield-parts/insert-decals-overlays/9379/insert-decal-set-for-world-cup-soccer?c=2109
You have to jump through a few hoops to get it to the US but I lost a few decals when I pulled some really bad mylar off and this saved my game.

Thank you so much! I'll likely buy a set and just leave mine be until/if things get worse. I like having supplies handy in case I need them.

Much more importantly, I need to address my right GI being dim.. but that's a completely different headache

2 weeks later
#5578 4 years ago

I get super jealous seeing other peoples' non-problematic GI. I really need to pull the board on mine so I can fix what I believe to be a cold solder joint on the right side GI. Getting real tired of having to push hard on that connector until it makes solid connection and then hoping it stays that way while I reassemble.... Woof. Got it for now (yes, I know the green trough lighting is atrocious, I need to get that swapped out)

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It's always something... Just a matter of time before we're back to this
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1 week later
#5593 4 years ago

Wonder if I have something similar going on with my left kicker (free kick). Seems fairly consistent that the first kick after turning the game on is like a ROCKET, usually straight down the drain. I have to hold both flippers up and hope it deflects it. Subsequent kicks are much gentler.

I did make some adjustments to the arm on the goal assist when it wasn't working correctly and it's been good since.

1 week later
#5607 4 years ago

I had full plans of grabbing the mirrored glass also, but it seemed like the consensus was that it was a bit of a bust. No?

I'm working on bronzing out my metal pieces (slowly), also!

#5609 4 years ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

I use frosted greens on the grass anyway, the rest white...that's the only color that looks soft in the pics...seeing it lit in the first picture seems the purple and other colors really come out. w mirror accents I think it will look great...
I'll post pics when I get mine and light it up..

Please do!

3 weeks later
#5691 4 years ago

Man, my game sure has taken a turn for the worse lately. It started off that I had full L/R GI brightness, then right got progressively dimmer until R GI finally went out entirely. Left side was fine. Nothing noticeably burned or anything like that, and both headers and plugs replaced on J120 and 121 (albeit 8 years ago, by CoinOp Cauldron, with LEDs run since). If I pressed on the plug I could get full brightness momentarily. I figured I either had terminals with issues, a cold solder joint, or both.

Going off a suggestion from a friend, I pulled the key and plugged 121 into 120. Same result, full brightness left, dim/out right. I thought that narrowed it down to a plug issue.

So I bought trifurcon terminals and a molex crimper. And now I have no left / dim or out right. Full brightness on right only if I press on the plug. Ugh.

#5694 3 years ago
Quoted from provato:

First diagnose, then buy spares and fix stuff.
(I’m a M.D. in profession so this is “second nature” to me)
Take out the Power driver board, take out your digital multimeter and start testing traces and components on the circuit that drives all g.i. strings.
If you are decent and gentle with a soldering & desoldering iron, you will fix it.

First I need to make sure I get some good crimps on the wires for this molex connector. I KNOW it's not done well. No sense doing any diagnosing until that's fixed.. But I can't seem to figure out where to position the terminals in this crimper--the crimps always look like garbage. Blah.

#5702 3 years ago

Realized I had the middle wires all one spot to the right which is why I lost left GI. Probably not a good thing long term, so I still have work ahead, but I moved solid orange from 2 to 3 and got right GI back. Installed my new evos (top right is a PITA).
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#5705 3 years ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

Nice t/s. Looks like you didn't insert the polarizing keys when re-pinning those connectors? They prevent inserting the plugs wrong.
https://www.pinballlife.com/156-polarizing-key-for-molex-crimp-stuff-housings.html
[quoted image]

Not on the bottom one, no. I do have the keys and I'll put one in. I'm glad I didn't though, that's how I figured out that pin 3 for right GI return fixed my issue. I just don't know if that's going to present an issue long term or not. It seems really strange that apparently both J120 and J121 have cold solder / pin issues on that second pin..

1 week later
#5726 3 years ago

What's the easiest way to change the GI bulbs on the middle left (under the mini playfield)? I'm thinking if I just drop the standup target through the playfield I should be able to get to the two bulbs. I've got warm white bulbs there I think, but I'm guessing they're the old style of LEDs and are either 1SMD or not SMD at all. They simply aren't as bright as I think the game needs. But I'm not looking to take the whole thing apart to change them right now..

#5730 3 years ago
Quoted from neodog:

Aren't those particular bulbs accessible from underneath by unscrewing a mini-PC board and pulling it out? That's how I accessed 90% of the GI bulbs. For two bulbs there would only be one screw holding it.
I used a manual nut-driver so as not to stress the threading; those screws definitely do not need to be tight.

Yeah, I realized that quickly after posting (doh! I'm used to all my sys11 and older stuff where GI is buried and a nightmare) and deleted the post.. Or so I thought. All better now. Still lots I want to switch from warm white to sunlight... But I'm out of bulbs.

IMG_20200412_085652 (resized).jpgIMG_20200412_085652 (resized).jpg
#5733 3 years ago

I don't think Comet sells the exact bulbs that are in the PF flashers but I'm placing an order anyway and I've got one of the yellow ones out. Anyone know which are the closest/"best" from what they offer?

#5735 3 years ago

Yessssssssssssss, finally! Too bad I totally screwed up the last ball after beating Germany. Oh well. First time I've ever beaten the wizard mode! It only took THREE damn extra balls to do it!

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#5737 3 years ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

Congrats! Does the machine go ape shit when you win?

Pretty sure it did. I've got a Superflux Surround Flash Kit on mine so generally speaking it goes pretty apeshit all the time. My heart was beating pretty damn fast as I made it to the final and was even worse when I won... So I don't remember lol

2 weeks later
#5766 3 years ago

Feels good kicking Germany's ass to knock them to #2 and then circling back and doing it again

Attach52159_20200501_233614 (resized).jpgAttach52159_20200501_233614 (resized).jpg

Didn't pick up any extra balls along the way (actually fumbled a bad center drain on ball three gearing up to hit Striker's hideout and get one) and didn't quite make wizard mode but went from 250mil from two awful first balls to finishing with almost 2.25B -- respectable at least, especially without any extra balls or wizard mode. I'll take it.

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#5768 3 years ago

I might have had something really going if the first two balls hadn't been so incredibly horrid. Ball 3 was a frickin zinger.

1 week later
#5788 3 years ago

It's on my list. My translite looks like crap

1 month later
#5886 3 years ago

Oh, MFER. Already over the machine high score after beating Germany, starting ball 3, machine resets and buhbye to it all. Where the hell did I put my sledgehammer?!

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#5888 3 years ago

My one random shutdown sure went south in a hurry. A few hours later I could reproduce it just about every time I pressed the flippers simultaneously..then it got worse and a few minutes later it got to the point where pressing EITHER flipper did it. So whatever 'went bad' sure had it happen in a hurry, but not instantaneously (like a fuse would).. Long story short, all of my boards are pulled and packed up to go off for full servicing. I'm overdue anyway, so I guess this is the push I needed. Bleh.

3 weeks later
#5924 3 years ago

Just got my boards back from a full rebuild and I'm officially in hell. All sorts of wonky behavior. I got it past this message once, I have no idea, and got it to play a game. EVERYTHING was weak as hell. Slings barely tapped the ball over, pops didn't actually pop the ball (but did fire), took a second to register the ball drain, etc. Did some other random nonsense too.

Now I'm back to being stuck here. While researching cables AGAIN I noticed this stupid wire pulled loose on J122. Does Marco actually sell the plug I need? I've got like 9 million trifurcon terminals but I don't have the plugs.

Anyone have any idea just what in the hell I could be doing wrong with the rest of this? I'm seriously pulling my hair out and I'm about to turn this thing into firewood.

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#5926 3 years ago

Yeah, I definitely need to expand my horizons and put in some orders outside of Marco, I just had an order I was already building and I hate paying double shipping.

I'm giving up on this machine for tonight, it's pushed me to the damn brink.

#5928 3 years ago

I'm not sure this was 'the' problem as I pulled / reseated a bunch of connectors while I was debugging this thing, but sliding this one plug over fixed my issues. Up and working again.

Now I need to put a new plug on one of my flashers, fix the Pinball Pro speaker wiring for the volume control in the head (center lug wires on the potentiometer pulled loose so I'm just rolling with the cab woofer right now)

I finally removed this old nasty loom that had been completely replaced but for some reason not removed from the machine. It was making a real mess in the head. I still need to zip tie a few bundles together and then reinstall the plastic tubing, but it's looking a bit better organized than before at least.

IMG_20200723_011934 (resized).jpgIMG_20200723_011934 (resized).jpgFB_IMG_1595481354819 (resized).jpgFB_IMG_1595481354819 (resized).jpgIMG_20200723_011852 (resized).jpgIMG_20200723_011852 (resized).jpg

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#5930 3 years ago
Quoted from jorro:

Is j209 in right place.?

Right place as in that's where that plug goes, yes. Wrong as in it was slid over one spot. I must have repeatedly put it in the wrong spot though because I reseated it MULTIPLE TIMES as I was debugging what was going on.

#5935 3 years ago
Quoted from centre-drain:

Not sure I am a fan of the extensions on J122 & J124.

They're not extensions, that's how my SuperFlux FX surround flash kit hooks in.

Quoted from centre-drain:

The extra ribbon cable to the display has not been fitted (I am guessing it was removed during fault finding).

Correct, it was pulled to illustrate better the general layout of everything else.

Quoted from centre-drain:

J209 looks wrong, the 9-pin plug should align with the 9-pin socket, the colours on the switch matrix row plug J209 look right but it should align pin1-1 not being offset like that.

What does the switch matrix look like when in switch test mode?
And do the switches when operated correlate to the matrix description.

Yes, it was misaligned by one pin and that caused almost every switch to misregister in switch test mode. I swapped those plugs multiple times, from the top row to the bottom, so I find it completely crazy that I must have repeatedly plugged in that cable incorrectly over and over again. But that certainly does seem to be the case, and the reason for all the frustration. Several hours going over and over and over and over everything, for that. Yuck.

Quoted from centre-drain:

Are all the leds on the power driver board on, have you measured the voltages.

Voltages were all good, LEDs were all correct.

Quoted from centre-drain:

If you want to post over the extra (hacked) secondary cable, I will pay postage

I think it's already been claimed along with some other stuff, sorry! I still don't understand why the hell it was ever replaced--it looks FINE--but whatever.. People are weird.

My game is working fine now, aside from the one flasher that I removed from the flow by accidentally snagging the cable out of the plug.

1 month later
#6002 3 years ago

Fire up the hate mail, I finally pulled my rails off.

Now I need to find a set of brass hinges. I think that'll be sufficient for a bit.

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#6004 3 years ago
Quoted from KneeKickLou:

ksuwildcatfan what size and what type of paper did you print those rules cards on? Looking to replace mine

Wish I could help, it came that way when I bought it. I'll ask my wife if she can advise.

#6007 3 years ago
Quoted from wombat:

This is exactly my plan. This game truly deserves the brass treatment. Need the details KSUWildcatFan!!

PinballPlating is where my parts came from. I got a sweet deal on everything from a guy who had pulled them off a different game.

Sadly I didn't remove the tape from the rails so they aren't sticking right..going to have to pull them off and redo at some point.

At a minimum I figure I still need the $50 shooter housing (or I could powdercoat that black along with the door; I'm not sure which way I want to go just yet) and the $135 hinges, but really I'd like to do all of it...trim pieces included. I ran the numbers on just the various trim bits as well as the skillshot ramp and wire forms (both of which are unfortunately exchange parts) along with hinges and the housing and it adds up to $760. Ouch. lol

That's why I think *just* the hinges and perhaps the shooter housing will do okay "for now". I do love the brass look all around though, although I know it's definitely a 'love it' or 'absolutely hate it' sort of deal for most people!

#6017 3 years ago
Quoted from hanford29:

I've got a huge favor to ask. I traded for a WCS. The guy took the backbox off to transport it (which we agreed on to make it easier to transport and fit into my basement. Unfortunately the pictures he took were not detailed and I've tried getting it all back together, but keep blowing fuses.
Would anyone that owns WCS be willing to take detailed pictures of the inside of the backbox and post them.
Thanks in advance.

Did you get pics you needed? I can post a bunch if not, just lmk

#6029 3 years ago

Mine has been converted over to 2SMD sunlight white from comet for the GI. I don't personally feel this is a good title for cool white. I like cool white 2SMD in games like Terminator 2 and Demolition Man, where there is a lot of blue. Imo sunlight plays off the green really well.

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#6033 3 years ago
Quoted from arcyallen:

Interesting that others are recommending warmer lights. I put in Cool White Comets (my first full LED swap) and love them. I think the machine wants cooler colors, and Wildcat's pic does nothing for -me-. To each his own! And I'm color blind, so my boo boo eyes are seeing things a bit differently too.
What I did was order about 30 different colors/brightnesses/temps and tried them all out. For about $30 it was fun, and after a few hours I had a pretty good idea of what I wanted. Also, Comet had a sampler pack that might work out well for this exercise.

Absolutely, to each their own. I think sunlight is the perfect compromise for WCS. The picture doesn't look great in some areas because of how bright my Evo BriteCaps are, relative to everything else. This happens with every game I put them in. Looks great in person but my crappy phone can't properly photograph it.

I like warm in most pre-DMD games and that's how I did my taxi, space shuttle and my high speed. F-14 looked great with cool white IMO. Do whatever you happiest, regardless of what anyone else thinks. Unless you want all colored GI, then please.. Don't. Lol

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#6035 3 years ago

I don't play pinball, I just spend all my time swapping LEDs in and out

All seriousness, I have no idea. I'd think switch issue but you said those are testing fine.

2 weeks later
#6077 3 years ago

Long shot but I suppose it doesn't hurt asking again..

I need some less savory skillshot housings and wire forms to use as a core for brass plated ones. Mine were both flame polished recently so I'd prefer not sending those out.. And since my game is working, I don't really want to have it down while I await the new parts.

Anyone got those parts laying around? Obviously condition isn't important and honestly uglier is preferred.

1 week later
#6127 3 years ago
Quoted from cconway84:

I did basically all the work on that game. I picked it up working ok but totally stock. Did a topside teardown with titan rubbers, powdercoat, deep clean, flipper rebuild, new star posts etc. Comet led conversion, cliffys. Had a ColorDMD on but removed at previous buyers request. That powdercoat was only $120. Heck of a deal for that Hawaiian teal color. [quoted image]

The teal looks great. If I hadn't already gone half-cocked with brass everything I would be seriously considering playing copycat. Seriously, that does look great. And ffs, so much cheaper than brass, which I still have so much more to buy...ugh lmao

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#6130 3 years ago
Quoted from misterhare:

ksuwildcatfan glad to see we have another owner's club to share. But I'm guessing I won't have as many i-need-help posts as in space shuttle!

Ha ha! I'm thinking not. Generally speaking my WCS has been rock solid....except for when the rebuilt power supply dropped dead....Blah. Rebuilt boards later, it's rock solid again. Hopefully for a long, long time this time.

I think we're stuck together in both of these clubs unless you decide to move on. Wife told me I can never sell WCS and I'm waaaaaaaaaaaaaayyyyyy over-invested in Shuttle to even come close to break-even on it. We also both owned an OXO at one point (my first 'working' pin)..but let's not talk about that thing. Woof.

Gotta say, I think WCS is far and away the best of our shared interests, but that's probably not saying much because it's an awesome game! Oh, and mine came from Ohio to Kansas, so the PA->OH->KS connection is seemingly true as well.

#6132 3 years ago
Quoted from DBUM:

I'm having an issue with my goal cage flasher(red flasher above goal), when i test that specific flasher I get nothing and instead the flasher in the top left corner of the machine goes off. Any ideas?

Do you have a cable offset a pin perhaps? Any other lights behaving oddly?

#6134 3 years ago
Quoted from DBUM:

I dont believe so no other lights behaving strange.

Weird. Snap a pic of the wiring to the light (from under the playfield) as well as connector J125 in the backbox?

Screenshot_20201022-161356_Drive (resized).jpgScreenshot_20201022-161356_Drive (resized).jpg

#6135 3 years ago
20201022_161828 (resized).jpg20201022_161828 (resized).jpg
#6139 3 years ago

Yeah, I'm pretty sure you're correct that it goes on the right-most pop bumpers.

Coat hanger, lol..Yeesh.

#6144 3 years ago

Holy crap! lol

That's filllllllllllllllllllthy. I struggle thinking about a 'newer' game (IE a DMD) being that filthy, but then again..they're 20-30 years old at this point. That's certainly enough time. I just think of that being more in line with a neglected 1980s game!

Luckily in my time in this hobby I've only found *one* game that dirty and that one was clearly nothing more than parts at that point (no glass over the playfield and it was half eaten away). I'm not envious of your task ahead but I bet it comes out nice with some time and elbow grease put in to it.

5 months later
#6753 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

For reference I sold mine last week for $3600. It came with a brand new set of Starship ramps.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-world-cup-soccer-116#post-6072679

Oh man, I can't believe you sold yours! WCS is one I refuse to let go of. I've managed to get some new pins (Tron, Metallica Prem, BKSOR Prem) the past several months thankfully, so I don't have much desire or need to sell anything of much value to chase anything else...thankfully. I did purge T2, F-14, Alien Poker, Cactus Jacks, Getaway, Space Shuttle, Pinbot, and an LE Hulk Avengers I got stupid cheap in order to make those moves. But no WCS.. not now, not ever!

#6754 3 years ago
Quoted from arsmith7:

Thanks in large part to helpers here I’ve got new ramps installed, plastics, and cleaned pretty much everything as much as I could. WCS is looking great!
I do have a couple questions. I have this new plastic and no idea where it goes. Any ideas?
Also, the plastic above the lock only had one screw in the top. The bottom just kind of hanging there. I’m guessing there is some kind of post supposed to go here?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Say what to drugs? Is it yes? Please say it's yes.

#6756 3 years ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

I have a couple of both, and they’re both good.
If you like dots, LED is an authentic dot experience. It also fits better, more akin to an original DMD. I like the brightness of it as well but that’s a personal preference.
If you prefer smoothing, tiles or the option of emulated dots in various sizes, LCD works great. If you’re really torn LCD gives you both, and that’s nice.
Here’s a video of the smoothing, I think it works particularly well on WCS...
And here is ColorDMDs trailer vid which I think they usually do in DotsXL... which is pretty close to what an LED would look like...
And here is some LED footage from TOM... I took this myself on an old iPhone so forgive the quality...

This is exactly what I came back in order to find, lmao. I was some 400 posts behind..Yikes! Funny how you guys were all talking about what was on my mind, though.

I just bought a Metallica Premium with a ColorDMD and it's huuuuge (sticks out a couple inches over the bezel). The image is smooth and I *love* it. I want to do the same thing with my WCS, I'm thinking. I KNOW WCS is awesome for ColorDMD, I'm just not completely settled on LCD vs. LED and whether or not I should go after the smoothing effects. Ughhhhhhhhhhhh.

#6758 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I had it for 5-6 years. We had our time with it. We’ve pretty much ran out of room, so games need to start rotating more often unfortunately.

I get it, after you master the game it probably isn't quite as entertaining. It was my original grail pin and I road tripped to Ohio to buy it..I don't think I could bare parting with it. I just dropped a decent game (especially considering ball 1 was like...19mil) after jacking up the rear levellers some more. I completely pissed away the ball after beating Germany (6-3) in the World Cup and failed against Spain in the Final Draw (horrible drain), then wasted an extra ball almost immediately. Could have been better, but I'll take that considering how I started AND finished the game.
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#6772 2 years ago

“Play better” - Steve Ritchie

But yeah, I brick that a bunch too lol

1 month later
#6821 2 years ago
Quoted from mbelofsky:

In December, I used Pinball Plating to exchange the long ramp, the coin toss entry, the two plates on the right and left of the coin toss entry and the apron wire and it was about $340. They look great![quoted image][quoted image]

I still need to do this, plus other various trim pieces. I have brass legs, rails, and a lock bar from them installed on mine. Some don't like it but I LOVE the brass look on WCS.

#6828 2 years ago

WCS was my first grail game and one that I can't even fathom letting loose of. I dream of finishing all the brass pieces on it someday.

8 months later
#7224 2 years ago
Quoted from misterhare:

There's only one grail right?

Wow, I didn't realize I ghosted this thread for...8 months.

I feel like once you get your grail...you just move on to the next one. For me, I always had Tron/Metallica/WCS as "grails" but I never would have even imagined being able to buy one modern, let alone multiples. I guess trading around 30 pins in 2 years helped me to get there because I ended up getting both Tron/Met along with WCS and somehow landed a Black Knight Sword of Rage (getting traded this weekend for a LOTR) as well. For the constrained budget I have, I'm pleased with that.

So, back to WCS.. Mine is super gross dirty and at least one of my center skillshot stickers is..chipped. I feel kinda guilty about how dirty it is, but stripping WCS just looks...awful. How bad is it, really? I'm currently in the middle of a Bad Cats (topside already torn down, I'm just going slow because my shop is cold AF right now) and two Mata Hari hardtops, plus the Eight Ball Deluxe project from hell (but hopefully I'm almost through). Anyway, lots on the plate right now but I should do SOME kind of cleaning on WCS because dirt is really getting ground into this thing. Is it even remotely possible to do much cleaning without stripping the entire topside? If I can do at least some of it, I can wait until I wrap up some of this other stuff. That's my goal.

https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/world-cup-soccer/9379/insert-decal-set-for-world-cup-soccer

Are these available anywhere else...like, anywhere that ships to USA? I've looked around but can't seem to find anything. I assume I'm going to need one of those at some point. My thought is that if I can wait to fully strip this thing down I can buff it, touch it up, put new stickers down (where necessary), and then clear..results will be better than if I just strip it, clean it, and reassemble. I dunno. I still have about $800 in parts to brass (wireforms, skillshot, hinges, trim, etc) as well. Then I need to clean up the parts I did install (siderails, lock bar, legs) because they're a bit....mucky now. So, I can certainly occupy plenty of time doing other things while this is torn down in order to clearcoat a playfield. Just makes the most sense to me to do it all *once* if WCS is a real nightmare to tear down, like it appears to be.

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#7228 2 years ago
Quoted from Medic:

Hello just got the game and have a few questions. Is anyone selling a mod of the soccer ball that goes over the speakers? Where can I get the topper from this picture? Also, after I lose 3 balls during the game, it gives me an option to continue the game by pressing extra ball button. Do most people turn this feature off? I feel like you can beat the game by just pressing extra balls the whole time? Thanks
[quoted image]

Iirc there's a limit to how many times you can do it, and your scores won't go to the main leader board if you press it even once.

#7241 2 years ago
Quoted from Medic:

Hello. I’m trying to remove this piece but it’s not coming off easily. I removed the screw but having a hard time removing it. Is this thing glued on the machine?
[quoted image]

Adhesive underneath. Slightly heat it up and CAREFULLY put a metal paint scraper/putty knife under it to pull it loose. Go slow or you'll mess up the cab and/or the rails. Heat will help it loosen so don't be afraid to use it. If you just plan on throwing the rails out, you can pull harder obviously.

#7243 2 years ago
Quoted from Medic:

I bought replacement side rails. You think I have to put adhesive again when I replace them or a single screw should be good?

I swapped mine with brass rails, so when I pulled my originals (they were dented anyway) I said hell with it and destroyed them on the way out. Didn't care.

I think you want to use at least some amount of adhesive when you put new ones down, but the screw may be sufficient. I'm not entirely sure.

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