Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992
Jurassic Park (Premium)
Stern, 2019
Oktoberfest
American Pinball, 2018
World Cup Soccer
Bally, 1994You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider kdoggity.
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Quoted from AUKraut:Titan - Clear translucent rings, yellow posts, purple flipper rubber. Finished this week:[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Oh man! That color dmd is so cool! Where does one find that, and is it difficult to install?
All - new owner, and new to Pins in general. Absolutely love the game, but wanting to take my soccer ball off for the first time. I removed the top screw, but it’s relatively hard to pull the ball up/off. Is that OK, and do I just need to apply more force to get it off?
Quoted from chuckwurt:Okay make sure all the wires are attached at the switches.
They all appear to look good. I also looked at the connection to the motherboard, and that’s a solid connection as well.
C3F9DF00-73B6-4D38-83DF-B565DC64C52D (resized).jpegQuoted from hisokajp:Possible problem with the MPU? slightest acid damage on the board can wreak havoc...
All look pretty clean - and it’s odd, because earlier today I was cycling through the menus just fine.
Any chance there’s some odd button combo that would lock it out, and need to be re-set?
Quoted from hisokajp:I have never heard about something like that... maybe try gently pulling on the wire, it may be broken off but not visible? then you can trace the cable back? Maybe one got caught in the door...
Found it! One of the little black wires that connects to the coin door had severed! Reattached, and all’s back to good.
Thanks for the help, all.
Quoted from SkaterVet:I got a lesson from my daughter I posted pics of all my other machines in those threads and have gotten a bit of interest. So, we set up a Pinside Shop. Check it out here: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1290-pic/04349-deluxe-flyer-identification-system
So awesome! Nice work! $12 (shipped) is just a bit high for us for a keychain at the moment, shortly after the new machine purchase, but we'll see about later in the year!
Quoted from jorro:I have a striker and some wc94 Dutch team players as a topper
In the backglass i have an wc card with autograph from Ruud Gullit
A Fifa 94 knvb Dutchy the lion mascot and two strikers at the entry of the ramps
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
How did you install the characters by the ramps and TV? I love that, and would love to do something similar!
Quoted from June703:Hello! I’m looking for a bit of advice and thought this might be the place to ask. I’d like to surprise my husband for his birthday and get him his first pin. World Cup Soccer would be his top choice. I’ve seen ads here and there over the past few months and also saw a listing on thepinball company.com. I was wondering if it’s a good idea to consider thepinballcompany so that I have a better idea of the condition of the machine? But then the price is nearly double other listings, and I didn’t know if it was worth the high cost? Thanks for any advice you can give!
It’s of course OK to pay for peace of mind and quality! That said, most listings here on pinside, or even a lot of Facebook postings, are legitimate collectors that will be honest about the condition of their machines, and give some assurances of working state upon arrival. Also, most shipping within a couple state radius is usually $300-500.
Totally up to you. I think it’s appropriate to spend whatever amount is worth it to you and your husband.
Hi all - I’m new to owning machines, so it’s possible this is a common issue, but... today, my machine started acting funny, and would automatically finish a ball, and switch to the next player in the middle of a game. Any ideas on what might be going on?
All. I haven’t been able to fix the issue we’re having with the game advancing to the next ball/player during play, and just today it started ejecting a second ball at the start of each ball or during play... all switches are working just fine, and the game has no errors at start up. Any thoughts?!
Quoted from Coyote:Switch test, or single switch test. Eject all balls, and check trough switches.
Assuming that when you say "game advancing to the next ball/player during play", that you MEAN that it is ending the ball prematurely, and going into bonus count.
Correct.
How do you eject balls during the switch test? I’d previously run the switch test, and everything seemed to check out. Only odd thing was that trough ball five position showed only the left optic was registering. Not sure if that’s normal...
Quoted from Coyote:As someone that's had a lot of work on games with those WPC troughs, I've gotten really good at reaching under and popping the ball eject solinoid pluger with my finger. However, if nothing else, go into the Ball Eject test, eject everything, then drop one ball in at a time.
And yes, what chuckwurt says - your balls may be magnetic, or, you may have wear spots/divots in the trough, preventing the balls from rolling down properly.
Thanks so much for your help, all.
Unfortunately, I’ve tried everything described here, and am still experiencing the issue. I’ve never taken a trough apart, but it looks somewhat simple to remove the opto boards to check ‘em out... Should that be my next step?
For what it’s worth, it seems like the issue occurs most often when there’s a ball in the lock. Any chance that’s related, or likely total coincidence?
Quoted from Coyote:It could, yes! I don't have a matrix chart for this game in front of me, so I can't check, but it's possible you have a bad diode, and it's causing switch matrix issues.
The first thing I would do is checking the trough - the easiest way to check for divots or stuck balls is to play a game with the door open - as soon as you see it happen, and before the ball in play drains, look at the underside of the trough - look at the balls in the trough, and make sure that they are all in line, all rolled down to the front.
You can then put an extra ball in the Lock area, and do more switch tests in the trough - see if anything changes.
You mentioned something about a bad opto, it wouldn't hurt cleaning the boards off when you remove them, too.
Forgive me for my ignorance herein - again, quite new to this. What's a diode? 
Apologies for not knowing.
Played the game a fair amount last night without issue, but did not have many locks. Then, tonight, got a bunch of locks, and game "ended the ball / advanced to the next ball/player" a bunch. The trough appears to be in good shape, with the balls rolling nicely, and all the switches appear to activate correctly during tests, so more and more I think it's somehow related to the lock...
Any additional help (you guys have already been great) would be much appreciated!
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:It's like an electrical valve. Allows current to flow one way but not another.
Any chance you have a picture of what it looks like? I'm trying to trouble shoot the potential issue that Coyote identified - "It could, yes! I don't have a matrix chart for this game in front of me, so I can't check, but it's possible you have a bad diode, and it's causing switch matrix issues", but being so new to this, I'm not sure what I'm looking for.
Thanks again!
All - still learning to work on my machine, after owning for a handful of month. Just yesterday, both flippers went out (not responding at all), but in test mode, the machine understands when each button is pressed.
Any thoughts on where to start looking to repair?
Quoted from chuckwurt:[quoted image]
check these fuses first. Take them out and test with a meter.
They are on the Fliptronic board pictured here (top left of the backbox I think):
[quoted image]
Thank you so much for this intel! At the moment, I don't have a meter. Any recommendations on one to purchase?
Quoted from chuckwurt:Just make sure you’re putting the correct type in. Fast blow or slow blow. Most likely need slow blow. The manual will say SB next to them. They look to have a bar in them with a coiled wire wrapped around it.
Thanks so much. Indeed the manual shows S-B.
All - my machine is still doing something funny. Every time I set the lock, and a ball stays in the lock awaiting multiball, within just a few moments the game ends, and advances to the next player/ball.
I want to replace the fuses related to the lock to see if that helps. Does anyone know which fuses these would be?
Quoted from Kevlar51:There are two switches there-- 77 and 76. Did you test both? I recommend checking in Switch Edges test mode, and run a ball down to make sure it's not touching both switches or is at least activating one and then the other.
Still struggling with this. All switches appear to check out fine, but consistently experiencing the issue of the game advancing to the bonus countdown, and next ball, a few moments after a ball locks.
Any other thoughts?
08C8CBFE-C84F-4CAC-9970-DCB3FC041181 (resized).jpeg1859F4BE-C341-40D8-B861-92633B0683B9 (resized).jpeg235F0D22-3267-4F4D-A1EB-C276BA2C425A (resized).jpeg7844F241-9C67-4425-A477-29098350E7E4 (resized).jpeg9ADA590E-E70F-47BB-81E3-8342AD718EC9 (resized).jpeg9CD500A5-1340-45C0-AA54-3C7589F705F8 (resized).jpegAD0C966A-E46C-478E-B945-42664BA10436 (resized).jpegQuoted from chuckwurt:Start a dedicated tech thread instead. It will get more eyes on your issue.
All - in the end, appears to be an opto issue - "seeing" a ball in position 4 that's not there, when a ball is in the lock! Having a guy replace the light.
New question! Anyone know the length of the 14 pin ribbon, for the dot matrix display. Think mine mine be losing connection...
Hoping an easy fix / troubleshooting here, but still new to this world.
Just today, balls stopped ejecting after goals. Seems like either the sensor doesn’t know a ball is in the goal, or the plunger just isn’t activating to send it back down the return ramp. Any thoughts on where to start looking for the repair?
Hi All,
I’m still struggling with my Goal Popper coil not activating, in live play or test mode. However, when I test it with my multimeter, I get a reading of 3.8 ohms. I’m new to this, but have read that is a good reading. That said, all other coils on the machine are reading much higher than that (all over 10). Is the goal popper coil bad, or should I investigate elsewhere?
Quoted from kdoggity:Hi All,
I’m still struggling with my Goal Popper coil not activating, in live play or test mode. However, when I test it with my multimeter, I get a reading of 3.8 ohms. I’m new to this, but have read that is a good reading. That said, all other coils on the machine are reading much higher than that (all over 10). Is the goal popper coil bad, or should I investigate elsewhere?
Any thoughts on this, WCS94 community?
Quoted from frisbez:You can test whether the coil itself is good and receiving power by grounding the coil lug attached to the non-banded side of the diode which will cause the coil to fire if the circuit is working properly.
Take an alligator clip wire and attach it to the ground braid in the cabinet and briefly touch the coil lug with the other end. If the coil fires it is probably good and you should suspect the driver board transistor.
Quick question before trying to learn how to do what you’re describing. . Is there a fuse specific to the goal popper?
Quoted from frisbez:Here's a picture of a coil. The diode is the small black and grey (the banded side is the side with the grey marking) cylinder in the middle. You'll see it attaches to the two metal lugs.
The diode acts as a one way gate. It allows voltage to flow through the coil to activate it, but not then go back to driver board and blow up sensitive components.
By connecting the non-banded side of the diode to the ground braided wire you complete the circuit. Pinball coils on WPC games are always hot. They always have voltage supplied to them but nowhere for it to go. Connecting the ground gives that voltage somewhere to go and will activate the coil.
[quoted image]
It looks like the goal popper coil is a non-diode coil. Would this change my troubleshooting direction?
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