Melbourne, ON
Quoted from nicoga3000:I find the dog kind of adorable.
We're going to have to relieve you of your man card now.
(Topic ID: 50131)
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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider hammerhead.
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Quoted from flashinstinct:Also just bought a scanner and plan on doing a full cab decal restore.
Let me know if you want any help with this. I'm pretty handy with Adobe Illustrator. I'm also planning on a cabinet decal restore for my Jackbot.
8 months later
Well I've finally joined the club! Picked up a project machine last weekend (6 hour drive each way 
) with an extra PF, plastics sets, and a slew of extra parts. Unfortunately its not playable right now, but I'm looking forward to tearing into it for a full restore this winter!
1 month later
Quoted from rollitover:Softer, more supple soccer ball will perform better.
Can't resist . . . how do you keep your soccer ball more supple? 
1 year later
Quoted from weaverj:is that an opto?
Yes it is
4 weeks later
Quoted from boiydiego:can somebody help me with a 600 dpi scan of the yellow marked area on his wcs94 pinball , why i need it is easy to see , so i can finish of and play this nice table .
thx in advance guys
PM sent
1 month later
Quoted from boiydiego:can somebody provide me of a scan 300 or 600 dpi from the plastic in the picture 31-1925-21 , thx in advance
pm sent
I'm rebuilding my WCS and am in the final debugging stages. While going through the solenoid check for the first time, I had a small meltdown.
While testing the goalie magna-save, R88 and R89 disintegrated, and immediately the DMD blacked out and now only shows parts of the display in the form of hashed lines. After shutting down and testing, I also found Q52 was bad (Q52, R88 and R89 all have to do with the left slingshot). I've gone through all of the schematics and see no correlation between the goalie magna-save, the left sling and the DMD.
I've replaced the failed components but before I reinstall the driver board I want to be sure that the same thing isn't going to happen again. Does anyone know how these might all be related?
Quoted from RonaldRayGun:Both the magna-save and the slingshots are running on 50VDC, but the magna-save is fed off the fliptronic board and the slingshots are fed off the driver board. However, the fliptronic board is fed 50VAC at J901 coming from the driver board at J104. Did you blow any fuses on the fliptronic board or the driver board?
No, all fuses checked OK
Replaced the transistor and resistors, had to repair some traces in the process, DMD is toast (luckily I had a spare).
Powered back on and the left sling (the new Q52) fires immediately, so something ain't right. 
4 weeks later
3 weeks later
I did a playfield swap on my WCS, and I'm now working through miscellaneous bugs. There's one that has me stumped.
The 7-Switch Opto PCB to the right of the flippers has a connector J3. J3-1 and J3-3 (Gray/Yellow and Black, respectively) branch off a Z-connector and end in a 4-pin IDC connector. The manual says these wires are supposed to connect to J116-2 and J116-3, respectively, on the power driver PCB. J116 is currently connected to the power driver PCB, and it is wired per the manual using the correct wire colours.
I cannot find where to connect these two together. You would think there would be an errant IDC connector laying around in the cabinet somewhere to complete the circuit.
Can anyone help me out?
2 months later
Quoted from Pdxmonkey:Anyone have a spare big ramp?
The entrance is on the right side of PF and wraps around to mini pf.
A-18009 is the part number
pm sent
1 week later
Looks like J120 and J121 connectors have already been repinned once before, but yes the board pins should be replaced.
J120 is off by one pin to the right - disconnect and reconnect correctly.
Looks like you're missing the plastic under the left ramp entirely.
The holes under the flippers are for alignment. You stick a toothpick into the hole, rest the flipper bats on the toothpicks and tighten up the pawl nuts.
Quoted from burningman:Looking for parts for my WCS....
Anyone have a right ramp?
Extra mini-playfield lock mech/assembly?
pm sent
Quoted from Wiggy:Thanks for the replies. I better start learning to solder and desolder then..
Wait, what plastic are we talking about?
Your second last photo, the clear plastic above the "assist" eject hole is a hack job by someone. It should look like this.
2 weeks later
1 month later
Quoted from Jo4114:I have recently installed a Cliffy Protector around the Assist ejector hole and the ejector is no long strong enough to kick the ball into the goal. I changed the ejector spring thinking that might be the problem but it did not help. The whole mechanism is clean and there is no binding and was working perfectly prior to the installation of the Cliffy. Any one with Cliffy's installed seen this before?
Interesting. I also have Cliffy's and a weak Assist eject. My situation was a complete playfield swap, new coils, sleeves and springs, so I couldn't figure out what could be the issue. This gives my something to think about.
1 week later
Quoted from RatShack:Marco replacement ball motor broke after about 150-200 games. Pinion gear stripped out.
What's the typical lifespan of these? Anyone have any info on replacing just the gear? Motor and gearbox are fine.
What does Marco have to say?
1 week later
Quoted from Bugsy:Yeah that's how mine was too when I bought it. But regardless the batteries can still leak and cause the damage you see above. Best bet is to either get a remote battery holder, or install an NVRAM. NVRAM is the best, most permanent solution to never ever have to worry about batteries again.
I understand the installing NVRAM is a b!tch unless you're have some very good soldering tools and skills due to the fine traces on the CPU board.
1 week later
Quoted from cocomonkeh:I think I have the same mystery one
I have it as well.
The schematics show that it should be connected to the power driver board (J116-2 & J116-3), but I see no way to do that. Besides, mine works just fine without it.
2 weeks later
Quoted from deeplennon1:Thanks for the reply, I'm not sure if this is my problem though but I could be misunderstanding your post. I've attached a picture and it looks like my rubber sleeve isn't even touching the ball guide.
Is this what you meant?
On an unrelated issue but in the same location, my kickout at this hole is very strong to the point that it hits the plastic over it and effectively "dribbles" out of the hole. I replaced all my coils when I did a playfield swap, so everything is good and strong. Does anyone else have this issue? Any solutions?
Quoted from weaverj:are the star posts cyan? if so, i'd say purple everywhere; superbands at cointaker.
Posts are teal.
1 week later
Quoted from allsportdvd:Turns out the coil was installed upside down, changed it and now the problem is fixed thanks
Shouldn't have made a difference, the coil would work either way.
1 week later
I'm having some kickout issues with my WCS:
- left kickout works great
- I think right kickout works but I can't tell because the ball hits the plastic directly over it and either dribbles out or falls back into the hole again
- upper kickout only dribbles out (you can't score a goal) and then rolls SDTM
I recently did a complete PF swap, cleaned everything, new coils, sleeves, springs, etc. Checked to make sure there's no binding. I've read suggestions here but nothing seems to make a difference.
Does anyone have any other suggestions?
Quoted from allsportdvd:You've gotta put a stronger spring on that upper coil. It's a bit unorthodox but I had the same problem with it having no strength until I put a rubber band around it as shown on page 77 of this thread. Now the ball gets airborne through the goal, it's awesome now
Well, I put the elastic like you said and its working great now. If the stock spring size (10-362) doesn't do the trick, any idea what spring should be there? It needs to be the right length too.
The elastic will deteriorate over time and can't be the permanent solution.
Quoted from allsportdvd:No, I was told to change the elastic at least once a year. If you get a spring number I'd like to hear which one works
For those with a WCS that don't need a rubber band for the top kick out, do you know what spring you have?
Quoted from aerobert:Oh and finally, what is the default position of the diverter? Mine is always to the right basically. Spring is too weak to pull it back out. I think the sleeve is bad. Couldn't get it out.
Sounds like the coil may have overheated and melted the sleeve; might want to consider replacing the coil altogether?
3 weeks later
Quoted from smokedog:Hey folks. First time owning a WCS! Just got it set up. Should the soccer ball spin constantly ? If not, what should i check? Thanks!
At the beginning of each ball the goalie moves and the ball spins. After you've scored a goal they should both stop until the next time you reactivate the goal. You reactivate the goal by rolling over the four red rollovers in the center of the playfield.
Quoted from dleasman:Only if the settings permit. This may be the default for the first ball only. You can change to start each ball this way, or not at all. Mine does not move until all 4 rollovers are hit, or final draw/wcs finals.
Good to know.
1 month later
Quoted from enkiktd:Can someone tell me what goes in this hole right behind this pop bumper? I don’t seem to have any pictures that show it.
Hope these help
3 weeks later
Quoted from allsportdvd:Does anyone have a lead on where I can purchase this decal only?
It's the once under the top ramp above the bumpers
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-31-1929-13
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=31-1929-13
Quoted from allsportdvd:Thanks!
Didn't think Marco's had that one.
Planetary Pinball wanted $56 minimum shipping for the decal, Marco's $3.99 shipping
Just a small difference there
No different in Canada, $50 shipping for $5 in parts.
1 week later
2 months later
Quoted from Coindork:Ill shoot you a PM with his email.
Me three!
Quoted from Flamingo43:I've joined the WCS Club recently, one of my favorites and thrilled to have it in my home. It seems to be a real hit with the family.
Generally speaking the machine is in great condition, but one trouble area is the free kick saucer eject. The left side is somewhat weak and the right side is worse - sometimes it takes 3 or 4 times for the ejector to kick out the ball and even then it is just a dribble. I looked under the playfield and the ejector mechanism creaks when it moves - it will move but a bit of resistance. The manual suggests lubrication and I know Vid frequently suggests Zoom Spout as a lubricant, so the next step seems to be to lubricate the joints of the ejector.
I was hoping to check in with other WCS members to make sure I am on the right track before I introduced the oil to the machine. Thanks much.
What about WD40 dry lube?
2 months later
Quoted from Tinnhound:Hi, Does anyone have a real nice original WCS translite that they would be willing to sell? I am in need of one, as mine is quite damaged. I would need it shipped to Canada, Thanks for your consideration!!
Would a scan do?
3 weeks later
2 weeks later
There is no driver, they are completely round.
You'll have to hold the post (not the round base) with pliers and loosen from under the playfield. Any scratches will be covered by the post rubber.
1 week later
Hoping someone here can help.
I completely rebuilt my WCS, playfield swap, new coils and sleeves throughout, and the game plays fast and snappy. But ....
All three kick out holes have no oomph. The penalty kick shot does not score, and the ball dribbles out of the other two holes. I've checked the mechs and there is no binding, and I've lubed metal on metal contact with WD40 teflon spray.
I do have hole protectors, but I've checked and the lip is nice and smooth.
Does anyone have any other thoughts?
Here you go:
ebay.com link: Set Of 2 1994 94 FIFA World Cup USA Soccer Mascot Dog Striker PVC figures 3 5
They look great, like they were made for the pin, but $106 for the pair?
Quoted from Hammerhead:Hoping someone here can help.
I completely rebuilt my WCS, playfield swap, new coils and sleeves throughout, and the game plays fast and snappy. But ....
All three kick out holes have no oomph. The penalty kick shot does not score, and the ball dribbles out of the other two holes. I've checked the mechs and there is no binding, and I've lubed metal on metal contact with WD40 teflon spray.
I do have hole protectors, but I've checked and the lip is nice and smooth.
Does anyone have any other thoughts?
Bump to the top, any help would be appreciated.
2 weeks later
Quoted from holm:Anyone know were I can buy the 4 ramp guards? New or used in good condition. Marcos out of stock on 2 of them.
Part nr: 01-12811.1 (1) , 01-12813.1 (1) and 01-13104 (2).
I have all four used, you can have them, just pay for shipping.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Lame33:I recently acquired a dog soccer that lives up to the name in more ways than one. It's going to take a ton of training to get this french poodle re-import housebroken. The bark that's annoying me this week is the assist kick-out. Even before I began patching the excessive wear and cleaning it up, it was inconsistent at best. Probably 1 out of 10 shots will anemically limp past the goalie with most just dropping back into the hole. (at this rate it could probably qualify for the US team)
As can be seen in this video.
I could use some idea on what to try next. The game is not set at a steep angle. The parts are all clean. Even the coil sleeve wasn't dirty. I've used super-lube on the metal parts that move against metal parts and the all the motion seems smooth with no interference.What else am I missing?
Following. Did you get this resolved yet?
1 week later
Quoted from jecase:I believe the adjustment to the side kickouts is described in the manual. Grasp the top of the kickout arm from the top and pull up. Hold in that position and bend the arm a tiny bit in the opposite direction that you want the ball to go.
Where in the manual, I don't see it.
Quoted from Archon9000:My goalie basically only covers the center to the right side of the net. For guys that have done troubleshooting with the goalie movement, can you suggest anything to make mine move all the way to the left as it should?
I've taken it apart and cleaned the whole mechanism and everything moves very freely. I applied a small amount of Wurth silicone spray to areas where metal rubs on metal.
Thanks in advance
Check the wiring for the goalie switch target. It may be wrapped around something and not allowing the goalie it's full range of movement.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Lame33:More boring assist hole drama!
This is the first game I've had with this kind of kick out (assist hole) and as I've mentioned, mine is pathetic. I read about the rubber band trick and tried it to see if a weak spring was causing my issue, but it's not that simple.
I finally got a chance to look at and take a video of how the ball launches out of the assist hole. In slow motion, I can watch it rocket up and right into the mounting bracket (#01-8877) directly above it. Momentum blunted, it then dribbles toward the goal seldom making it.
Is this how everyone else's works or do I have angle or bracket issues? I had thought it was designed to kick it more forward and less upward, but I've never closely inspected a working one.
I FINALLY got my issue figured out, hopefully it's the same fix for you.
The assist eject hole and its respective coil are offset from each other for room, so the eject plate has a plate that allows for this offset. It's unique to the assist eject hole versus the other two. On my game, this plate was hitting the the bracket that holds the coil, so it did not allow enough movement to make a solid kick. I bent the coil bracket , no more contact, scores a a goal every time!
2 weeks later
I have the same issues with mine, but I think it's too much power. I think the ball hits the plastic over the hole and that deadens its momentum.
2 months later
Quoted from IceMaster:The ball occasionally gets hung up on the magnet core which is pretty worn. Marco doesn’t have any in stock. Can I grind or sand it smooth or will that make the magnet grab weaker?[quoted image]
I sanded mine smooth and it still works great.
2 weeks later
Quoted from gunstarhero:Quite a bargain at only $500 + $15 shipping!
I have a spare one I'll sell you for a tenth of that, some assembly required.
Playfield wear, especially the kickout holes and if the flippers have been dragging. Most everything else is fixable
2 months later
Just a note that the L-bracket in the last picture should be turned 90 degrees CCW so that it supports the ramp.
And the screw for the soccer all isn't stock 
3 months later
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:Oh, and another random... Anyone ever tried anything crazy on the pops, like Red/White/Blue (thinking more along the lines of clear caps with colored bulbs/discs/rings)? Or does everyone just kind of stick with the green?
This isn't anything I'd do any time soon since my skirts are green and the color scheme would make that look especially bad IMO, but if/when I rebuild them, the scheme could be an option.. I dunno.
Ummm, no.
1 year later
Quoted from RonaldRayGun:Replace the spring in the kicker mechanism.
I had this problem and it turned out the the kicker arm was hitting something under the playfield so it couldn't make a full stroke with enough power to hit the goalie. I rearranged the wires and my problem disappeared.
Quoted from arsmith7:New problem again. Hope I’m not wearing out my welcome here.
Goalie movement suddenly is dramatically reduced. Stays mostly in the middle and sways back and forth. Motor seems to be working fine. But everything here seems a bit loose and he’s kind of grinding on the back of the goal. If I push the assembly a bit more on the drive I seem to get better movement. Any hints for a good fix?[quoted image]
If the wire for the goalie target gets caught on something it won’t let the goalie move freely.
1 week later
Quoted from arsmith7:Anyone have a color dmd on their WCS? Trying to decide between LCD and LED and looking for first hand opinions.
I have a colour LCD set to "scan". Gets rid of the dots and smooths everything out.
1 year later
Just tie them out of the way.
Had a similar issue with my goalie, only moved halfway across the goal.
Had a similar issue with the goal kick out too. Wire wa in the way and didn’t allow the armature full movement, the ball dribbled out of the hole and SDTM
6 months later
Quoted from Gorgar666:Next question. Where to get the gold legs? Cheap <100
3 months later
Quoted from JustAnotherRat:A couple of things to check.
Check that the eject shields are not broken. They need to have the two ramp bits that are circled in the image I've shared. When I fitted Cliffy's I had one not kicking out properly and Cliffy told me that this was my problem. I wasn't convinced and 3D printed one and low and behold, perfect. I bought a few and replaced them all as they were all broken.
and
Have a read of this short thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/world-cup-soccer-weak-kickout-holes
[quoted image]
That was my thread. The assist kickout issue was resolved, the other two just dribble out and down to the slings, and I've just accepted it. I'll have to take a look at the "ramp bits" more closely.
5 months later
I believe that are all wedge bulbs. Frosted, Non-ghosting 1SDS are the best for these in my opinion so they’re not too bright and don’t flicker
1 week later
Quoted from CLEllison:Personally, I'd just replace the whole darned assembly and know it'll be good to go for as long as you own it. That stuff is OLD. It's cheap enough to fully rebuild so reason not to!
I look at everything I do on my pins in the light of keeping it alive and best possible for the next owner. If your VUK holes are starting to wear I'd recommend adding some Cliffys while you're at it.
I have an extra used assembly if anyone's looking for one.
1 month later
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