(Topic ID: 50131)

World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.


By DEWSHO

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 5,824 posts
  • 532 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by jorro
  • Topic is favorited by 189 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 1,425 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

IMG_20200516_113426 (resized).jpg
2290B6B8-C308-4BAB-9A12-0FAE26F1348B (resized).jpeg
FC74C75D-485D-40CA-A9FE-870EFC7BBC56 (resized).jpeg
60D1249C-DF26-4692-820F-C47A6D428D0E (resized).jpeg
5DE8FEED-19E2-4246-869E-6CDAD47C12DE (resized).jpeg
46158500-3802-4408-AE01-5862310E64BC (resized).jpeg
IMG_0340 (resized).jpg
IMG_0338 (resized).jpg
IMG_8231 (resized).JPG
IMG_8232 (resized).JPG
DSC_1980 (resized).JPG
pasted_image (resized).png
WhatsApp Image 2020-05-04 at 10.39.30 (resized).jpeg
IMG_20200502_073154 (2).jpg
Attach52165_20200501_233838 (resized).jpg
Attach52159_20200501_233614 (resized).jpg

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider gunstarhero.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#3341 2 years ago

Been spending some time on this one lately, it's the wife's favorite but I never really gave it any time. Went through it, fixed a bad switch on the kick back lane, leveled and waxed it and I'm kinda surprised how fun it really is.

Making my way through the thread for ideas but does anyone have any quick mods or tips they'd suggest?

#3343 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballdork:

A new spinning rubber ball, really give the pinball some spin and looks great.
I'm super happy after hooking it up to a sub-woofer, the music has a good bass and the (extra ball) thunder has a great rumble.

Thanks pinballdork!

I replaced the ball and the motor about 10 years back, and it still looks and works great... but get this... I had wired it up backwards and it has been spinning the wrong way all this time!!

Based on what I've seen so far, a rerubber with Cliffy posts and LED conversion is happening. It already has a Pinball Pro in it IIRC and yeah, great sound.

#3348 2 years ago
Quoted from Slim64:

Goals lit is clockwise.
Multiball is counter-clockwise I believe

Yah, I believe that's right.

#3351 2 years ago
Quoted from alistaircg:

I have a problem that I can not figure out, please could somebody help ?
WCS94 has 4 balls. When locking balls , 1st ball locka successful 2nd balls does not lock. When the player looses the 2nd ball, the machine searches for a ball (know that there is a ball missing, this ball is in lock mode) . After searching for the ball for a couple of seconds, it then decides to release the ball (1st ball) that was locked
When going through test mode in the program, all switches and sensors indicate as working. The machine does not display any faulty switches

Hmmm... that kinda screams bad trough opto to me.

#3358 2 years ago

More than any other game my WCS has flaky switches that just end up being the switches. Trace the wires back, make sure no breaks or broken diodes, and maybe swap in a good switch and test it before monkeying around with the switch matrix.

1 week later
#3375 2 years ago
Quoted from Bud:

Forgot to show what it looked like before I stripped and buffed it.

Aww man, you took off all the patina!

j/k dude, looks great!

1 month later
#3410 2 years ago

Those connectors are TOAST. Replace all the pins and the plugs at J120 and J121 for sure.

That game will clean up just fine! Have fun. I shopped my wife's WCS and am getting set to do it again with Cliffys and LEDs this time.

Those holes under the flippers are for setting your flipper angle. I never really use them tho.

#3418 2 years ago

The goalie isn't a plastic, he's like a dense rubber pad with a sticker on it.

#3427 2 years ago

Backbox.

#3430 2 years ago
Quoted from RatShack:

Thanks. Found the holes on the bottom, didn't know they were threaded.

No problem dude, I love the easy questions.

#3434 2 years ago
Quoted from Bud:

Finally finished my wcs resto, thought I'd share a few pics. Still need to tidey up some wires and do a few small thing. This will be a Chicago expo this year.

Looks awesome but I just can't do the exposed LEDs.

I'm thinking when I LED ours I'm gonna keep incandescent colored bulbs in those spots.

#3436 2 years ago
Quoted from Bud:

Yeah, I was thinking the same thing.

Besides that tho... beautiful. I'll swap you for my WCS straight up RIGHT NOW.

#3441 2 years ago

Depends on which one is scratched. Maybe both?

#3466 2 years ago

Ordered a display in anticipation of the ColorDMD release for WCS!

#3469 2 years ago
Quoted from doublestack:

I've never been really super into color dmd's. I will say though, I am contemplating getting one for wcs. I've only seen the few clips so far, but man this game would really pop with one. There is so much color on the playfield and especially after a good LED job this just makes sense. I'd probably go LED on the display if I purchase one.

Yeah, I love the ColorDMD LED displays. I can't see why, unless you just didn't want to spend the money, that you wouldn't put one in your game.

I have an LCD display in my TZ and it's got some nice options, so I can see why people go that way too.

#3475 2 years ago

Got my Color DMD LED for WCS today... now we just need that cooooooooooode.

#3479 2 years ago

The color programming for the ColorDMD.

1 week later
#3489 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I don’t know what Pin dmd is. Color dmd for this game is available now.

Nope, it's not. But it's been shown (at Expo) and is almost done, probably the next release after Godzilla.

PIN DMD is like an open source ColorDMD that looks less good.

#3491 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

My bad. Never seen them show one that wasn’t available immediately.

Yeah, it was an Expo thing I guess. But I got a display ready to go in my wife's WCS as soon as the color drops!

#3493 2 years ago

They're bad news dude... as soon as you have one you need one in all your games!

#3495 2 years ago

Hahaha, you know it brotha.

#3503 2 years ago

Some of them are made of a slicker, harder rubber. They last longer but the action isn't as good.

#3513 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Does anyone have a pic of what the official topper looks like for this game?

I remember seeing a topper that was a strip of flags, actually looked something like Sterns "Tournament" signs... but I couldn't say if it was anything B/W official.

#3516 2 years ago

Ha ha! Good looking out dude.

Nice to know the old noodle isn't mush yet.

Here's a pic from earlier in this thread:

wcs_topper (resized).jpg

...and it looks like PPS has it in stock.

#3519 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Cool. I like it.

Yeah, me too. For $20 I figured what the hell and ordered one.

#3521 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

I thought it's sold out and hard to find now

Planetary Pinball Supply said they have them in stock and let me order one. Guess I'll find out next week when I stop by to pick it up!

#3525 2 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

i think it was just beta'd/demo'd at the last show, wherever that was; not publicly released yet.

That is correct.

#3528 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

btw - these color dmds, they are not game specific meaning I can take one out of another pin and put it in the WCS, get the file (when it's released) and be set right? Thinking about LCD vs LED on this game too.

The display is the same, the power cabling is unique to Stern, Williams, etc tho, so a Stern to Williams might not be a straight swap. There are some older CDMDs that might not have the memory to run newer games I hear, but I haven't run into that.

I usually go LED for the brightness, color intensity and easy install, but there are a few nice LCD advantages, like various modes, more color gradations, etc. If you're wondering what one to get, get an LCD so you get all the options.

#3533 2 years ago

They don't come programmed when they ship, you need to download the color code onto a thumb drive and program it. It's super easy.

#3547 2 years ago

Topper get!

WCS Topper

Now I just need to find some dinky L brackets to mount it.

#3554 2 years ago
Quoted from Knoler:

From googling, it appears that the 11630s are high strength, and the 11629s are medium strength, which might explain why I get left ramp rejections, especially during long games.

11629 is the highest strength Williams coil. For games with big ramps and long shots.

11630 is a standard strength coil.

http://pinballmedic.net/coil_chart.html#solenoid_coil__chart_index

Manual says 2 11629s. I have a 11630 (not a Williams coil so definitely replaced) on my left and a 11629 on the right. Not sure if that's "right" but I can make all the shots.

1 week later
#3568 2 years ago

No WCS color code yet...

#3575 2 years ago

Heck yes!!

025 (resized).JPG

1 week later
#3630 2 years ago

That does look like a cheap pinion gear.

#3635 2 years ago
Quoted from TheFamilyArcade:

What’s the plus/minus in going LED versus LCD on the color display? Besides $30?

LCD has a "HIRES" smoothing mode and upscaling dots modes that some people prefer. I use DOTS XL on my LCD display and it looks good.

LED is more vivid and (IMO) it all just fits a little better when installing. It also feels a little more authentic to me. But as it's a real DMD it's all dots, all the time.

I own a LCD and 3 LEDs now, so I'm kind of on team LED, but if you think you might like the smoothing and upscaled dots modes, the LCD will do everything the LED does, just a little more less-vivid.

Here's the LED in my WCS. Looks great! WCS_CDMD (resized).jpg

#3638 2 years ago
Quoted from Zzap:

Any chance someone out there can take a video of an LCD in HiRes mode with WCS?

I bet it looks really good actually, the flat colors and bold outlines probably lend itself well to HIRES. If so, I'd considering swapping my LCD into WCS and putting the LED into TZ.

#3642 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

But with LCD you get all those options including dots. With LED you’re stuck. That’s what make me nervous to gonthat route unless I have to.

That's what I usually suggest too for people who just aren't sure, but that said, if you're a dot man (like me) the LED dots look better, warmer, more vivid.

#3645 2 years ago

Here's a HIRES vid from YouTube. Looks good but yeah, I'll stick to the dots.

1 week later
#3667 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Nice work. My game has the batteries on a separate board that’s mounted up off the main board. Not sure if that’s stock or what.

That's how his was too, you can see the standoffs. The corrosion will still drip down onto those connectors.

2 weeks later
#3726 2 years ago

They look fine to me, but trough opto boards are cheap enough that if you think they're bad, replace em. On some games (like Dredd) it will save you a world of hurt.

You can always change out the optos and reflow the pins, but I have never had great luck with that. Then again, I'm kind of a hack!

That error message on your DMD probably isn't because of your trough opto boards tho, you have something going on in your backbox with your 12v power section.

#3727 2 years ago
Quoted from GLSP3022:

Thanks comment23, however I do not need the entire cabinet artwork. I'm only in need of the large "officially licensed" sticker.

How odd that the new art has a white square where the "Officially Licensed" sticker would go and the OG art doesn't. Might just peel the old one off and clean up the gunk and see if it looks better without.

#3733 2 years ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Thanks, I'm a bit of a novice. Where in the backbox am I looking for 12v power issues?

The power driver board (the big one) would seem to be the place to start. Check all your fuses (pull and test) and make sure your connectors are well seated and not burned or discolored. J116 I believe is opto power to PF?

1 week later
#3765 2 years ago

Had a feeling it would look cool! Nice work.

#3767 2 years ago

I'm thinking white rings, green flipper rubbers and yellow and purple cliffy post rubbers when I shop mine next.

#3789 2 years ago

Anyone doing WCS94 plastics sets right now? I put a repro set on my game years ago but they were kinda crap and they cracked pretty bad at the screw holes.

#3792 2 years ago

Good looking out, thanks guys.

#3808 2 years ago

Plus they're good for 20HP according to some import car tuner guys I know.

1 week later
#3840 2 years ago
Quoted from ericgu:

I just upgraded the speakers on my WCS today, using Tony's excellent guide: http://www.dziedzic.us/wpc_speaker_replacement.html
My speakers came from parts express; for the backbox speakers I chose the Pyle PLG5.2. They have a yellow cone that nicely shows through the speaker grille and is backlit by both the GI and the flashers in the backbox.
So, if you like the yellow theme for WCS, they're a cool option. I may try to build something that lights up the cones more directly.
The sound is so much better than the stockers.

Those are great cheap speakers, I put a pair in my MMR and have a pair lined up for my CFTBL, but maybe I'll put them in WCS instead.

Did you modify the speaker panel at all?

#3847 2 years ago

Hey does anyone sell the skill shot assembly or have advice on refurbing one? I noticed the other day mine is flaking pretty badly.

#3870 2 years ago

I'd rebuild the flippers for sure. With that fade you certainly have something at least dragging, and if you feel like the coil is bad swap it out too, it probably isn't but it's not expensive and you can remove it from the possibles list.

For the first time I just bought the whole flipper assemblies when I did my CFTBL and I'll tell you, I have never had a better flipper experience. Easy to install, works great, and I have some extra parts now to prebuild my next flippers!

Also, don't forget the flipper button optos, they can flake out over time as well.

#3871 2 years ago

So I LED'd out the GI in my WCS this morning and it looks great!
POW!
Does anyone have a map of the inserts and the needed colors and bulb types I can get to place an order to LED my inserts with color matched LEDs? I strategically did a few (as in, I used what I had, lol) but I want to really make the inserts pop.

#3873 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I just use warm white everywhere. I think you’ll be pleased with the amount of pop you get from comet twin smd frost warm white bulbs under all the inserts. Most are 555.

I ended up kind of going that way, with some natural white to go under the white inserts, and some purple for the purple ones and the saucers. This game has alot of purple going on!

It's crazy how since i did a few inserts just to fool around with the extra GI bulbs I had left over how dim the rest of them look.

Thanks Chuck.

#3877 2 years ago
Quoted from SkaterVet:

Is that the LCD or LED Color DMD on your machine? It looks great.

ColorDMD, the LED version. Absolutely awesome, best thing you can do to your game besides you know, shopping it. Not cheap, but worth it. I know people say you don't play the DMD but once I saw one installed I knew orange was no longer an option.

#3879 2 years ago

If you prefer the HI RES look, go LCD, if you prefer dots, go LED. If you're not sure, the LCD does both, so go LCD. I prefer LED for the stock fit and the vividness of the dots myself, but I have both side by side in my lineup and no one really seems to care, lol.

The MMR screen is a little different just because it kind of emulates dots and does "real" high res graphics together. I just kinda think of it as it's own thing.

#3883 2 years ago
Quoted from wylcot:

A friend of mine has a WCS but the sound board's missing.
Do you guys know if it's being reproduced like others or should i just rely on the used parts market??

Get a pinsound board and you will have custom or original soundtrack options!

#3884 2 years ago

Still need to do the pops and maybe make some adjustments and color matches later, but here’s what we got:
BCB28A89-621A-4EDF-B6EC-C8159887BBB5 (resized).jpeg
Pretty happy with the result! Can’t believe I held out on LEDs for so long! I got LED addiction now is what my buddies tell me, lol.

#3889 2 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

Farewell, 1990's brass plating. Your life ended 25 years ago. See you in a few days, all refinished in a rich, zinc yellow powder coat (RAL 1019). Hope you like your new look!

Can't wait to see what that looks like. My wireform and coin flip need something done BAD.

#3893 2 years ago
Quoted from RonaldRayGun:

Sweet. What lights did you go with?

The Comet 2 SMD warm white with a fluted lens for the GI, and the 4 SMD with no lens for most of the inserts in warm white, cool white or purple depending on the insert, and a few flexies where needed. I kept incandescent colored bulbs in the visible spots. Pretty simple scheme but it turned out really good.

#3904 2 years ago
Quoted from RonaldRayGun:

Do you remember how many G.I. bulbs there are on the playfield and what sockets they are? I counted 33 but I'm not sure if they're all 555.

All 555... I didn't count but I don't think there are more than 33. So easy to swap out thanks to the little boards they're all mounted on. Did them all from below without removing one plastic.

#3910 2 years ago

I didn't change the lock, the backboard lights, or the pops, but I did factor them into my "guesstimate"/confirmation.

I prefer the look of colored incandescents in those spots (and the ramp signs and the coin flip). I did get the little board lights for the pops but I'm not changing those out until it's shop time, it wouldn't be impossible, just a little annoying, lol. But to me, uncolored unlit leds are kinda ugly, and I don't really want to go back to the bulb condon days, so...

I might be inside WCS today, if I am I'll take a quick count.

2 weeks later
#3953 2 years ago

It doesn't surprise me, it's a super fun game, and the color display and LEDs really bring it alive.

#3963 2 years ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

Getting a colorDMD for this game. Should I get the LCD or LED version? This is my first colorDMD to ever get. So, looking for reasons on why one is better than the other too. Thanks, guys.

I get more comments on how great the LED looks in this game than any of my others.

The LED is a more stock fit, has brighter colors, and is a little cheaper. But it's all dots, all the time because it is a "real DMD". So if you're a hard core dots guy, it's for you.
C71251A2-EB0F-4418-9C69-778511DCC818-12017-000008CF4416204F (resized).jpeg
Forgive the half done LED job! This is stock settings of 5 for brightness and color.

The LCD gives you the options of modes... hires smoothing, dots xl, 8 bit, etc... those can be cool and fun. It's a little less bright so some people say it's easier on the eyes, although brightness on both is asjustable. There is some overhang on the top and bottom, although it doesn't get in the way. If you think you'll like the smoothing or different modes, this is the one for you, because it will do dots and do them well, but it gives you the option.
IMG_4071 (resized).JPG

Here's the LCD in Creature from the Black Lagoon on DotsXL mode. Pretty sure this is 6 bright and 7 color.

You can't go too far wrong either way. Enjoy!

#3966 2 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

might as well go LCD. you'll always wonder about the other modes on it, if you buy an LED.

Yeah that's usually my attitude on it. Having had both tho, LED for me.

3 weeks later
#4056 2 years ago

The switch still exists, it’s just not doing anything. Reseat your connectors on the flipper optos and the flipper board in the backbox, and make sure the flipper opto is clean and the interruptor is working correctly. If none of that helps swap the left and right flipper boards and see if the problem moves... if so, probably just need to replace the opto or maybe the whole opto board, which isn’t a big deal as it’s pretty cheap.

2 months later
#4145 1 year ago

Could be a lot of things but they’re probably not related. Make sure the slingshot switches are clean and gapped, as in they close when the ball strikes the rubber. As for the post, make sure the mechanism moves freely, if it feels gummy it might need a cleaning.

2 weeks later
#4186 1 year ago

There are several kickback settings, but if any of the arrows are lit you should get a kickback. That switch can be flaky and intermittent tho, I recently changed mine and it fixed all my kickback issues.

3 weeks later
#4246 1 year ago

Alot of times I'll just replace colors with clear because I think they look brighter and better but on WCS I think the teal posts look so good that's not an option.

1 week later
#4255 1 year ago

It’s standard. Keeps the ball from falling down under the apron.

#4260 1 year ago

Pretty sure that’s right. It should throw the ball towards the goal when it comes out of a kickback.

I had mine running backwards for a long time, lol.

1 month later
#4338 1 year ago

You most likely need to replace the pins (and connector) at J115, and your J121 connector also looks toasted, unless it’s just the light in your picture. I just had to go through and do this on my wife’s WCS, it was having the same issue with the GI lighting, specifically the “stadium” lights on the backboard.

Once you replace the plugs and switch to LEDs issues like this become a thing of the past luckily. Of course in home use, only on for short periods, and with better connectors it shouldn’t be an issue either.

#4361 1 year ago

I MIGHT have mentioned this yesterday...

Also, if you replace the connector, replace the pins too. They're already burned and causing resistance, and there might be board damage or cold/cracked solders so...

#4362 1 year ago
Quoted from jbovenzi:

Ironic. I just got a WCS and found that J121 connector was burnt badly also. I re-pinned a new connector with a IDC one and got it working correctly.
Most of my GI bulbs were out in the backbox and on the playfield.
Ensure that the wires are correctly hooked up to J121 and not hanging loose. On my J121, I used a small flat blade screwdriver and seated the wires firmly in the top of the connector.
General question: Since this game has so many bulbs in it, is this a strain on all WCS J121's? Just curious if others have had this issue.

Yep, basically every game of this generation has this issue if it's spent any significant time on.

#4365 1 year ago

Are they in a bank of 3? Those are CPU status lights.

#4366 1 year ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

If I do end up having to re-pin these connectors and the pins... how/where would I go about getting these... I don't even know what to call them too google it.

https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=235&pg=1

I have a kit someone used to sell, very handy. But I can't recall where I got it.

#4370 1 year ago

Not sure on the long crescent shaped one... I don’t think I have it on my game, and I don’t see it on this plastics set:

25341588-D566-4914-AF48-E59A3061E867 (resized).png

The trapezoid with holes goes on top of the wire form coming off the ramp:
7A2DD5AE-81A1-4BB8-8183-0DF00A483C70 (resized).jpeg

5985B24C-02A9-471E-A5A8-2C8B10030305 (resized).jpeg
#4372 1 year ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

After further investigation into by upper playfield GI issues, I have determined the connectors to the back box are 90% likely to be the culprit. I'm going to buy some new connectors and fix it over the next few weeks.

Wow, yeah you have 100% found the issue. Those poor things are TOAST!

#4374 1 year ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Yeah... the only thing I'm not sure on is whether fixing the top or the bottom one will fix the stadium lights. I just ordered new connectors and will give it a shot when the goodies come in.

The top one, J120. J121 is your backbox insert, the one that swings open so you can see the boards.

Do you have a manual? If not pull it off of IPDB.

E0B27411-C197-4CD8-8B78-E4AE5D257513 (resized).png

#4376 1 year ago
Quoted from jbovenzi:

Thank you very much! I did not have the trapezoid one on my game, so couldn't find where to replace it. Above the long wire form makes sense. Still can't find it in the manual, but will mark that up to your experience.
The picture came from PinBits: https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_76&products_id=576&zenid=038916befcc3dcf0527fa8cb2cb4d560
I did get a WCS repro plastic set that was sealed and the crescent one was NOT included with my set. I was just trying to make sure I wasn't missing anything. Perhaps I need to contact PinBits to see what they were thinking.
Very helpful!

Knowing pinbits it is some genius thing that Martin invented and I’m not even close to smart enough to figure it out without him saying “It goes here dummy!”

Where did you get the plastics set? I need one too.

#4379 1 year ago
Quoted from jbovenzi:

I got my set from a fellow Pinside through direct contact. But Bryan is selling one:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/67099

Nice, I shot him a PM.

I put an "unofficial" set on my game when I got it and they turned out to be really scratchy and brittle. I'd imagine these are better.

#4396 1 year ago
Quoted from DavidPinballWizz:

On a tutorial video Bowen talks that in BIG goal round.. if you can complete 'BIG' it within a few seconds, you get an extra fourth shot with an exclamation mark worth 60M...
I don't know of anything like this even if I succeed in it I do not get this award... anyone does?

(at the 2:00 mark)

I've tried for that several times since I watched this, nailed it at least a couple, and never got an exclamation mark. I call shenanigans.

#4442 1 year ago
Quoted from jbovenzi:

Disrupting the thread again for a game of "Name this Part!" I found this in my WCS. Not sure if it belongs, so I seek the group wisdom once more:[quoted image][quoted image]

They go over the coin switches on the bottom of the coin door.

#4471 1 year ago

I find with the coin door lights it’s often flaky solders at the sockets. Do all your service buttons and coin switches work otherwise?

Also, maybe a little sanding and spray paint if it’s worn, new inserts, return buttons (or just some good cleaning) and slots and that will still be a perfectly serviceable coin door, I did the same with my CFTBL coin door and it’s not perfect, but it looks fine to me!

1 week later
#4484 1 year ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

What are your strategies on this machine? Now that I have my very own pinball machine up to 100%, I've been putting a lot of games on it. I seem to be consistently at around the 2 billion mark. My strategy is as follows, what is yours?
1. Immediately hit the ball in the goal to get the noisy motors to stop.
2. Try to immediately hit it in Spot's Hideout... which seems to give an extra ball if hit early.
3. Hit the ramps until the lock is lit.
4. Hit the T.V. award and do the big goal round, which will give you enough points to light the extra ball round.
5. Hit the T.V. award for the extra ball round.
6. Get the extra ball from Spot's Hideout.
7. Hit the ball in the lock.
8. Hit the final draw... score as much as possible.
9. Hit the ramps and do everything to light the soccer ball again quickly.
10. Hit final draw multi-ball.
11. Repeat steps 9-10 as many times as possible... while doing this you will slowly make your way up the "World Cup" cities.
12. Make sure and grab the extra ball from city progress.
13. Hit the Los Angeles game as soon as lit.
14. Repeat steps 9-10 as many times as possible until you can hit number 13 again.
I have only gotten to LA once, but I get obscene points from the multi-balls. If done properly you should get a 6 ball game, several multiballs, the second and third of which you should be able to do victory laps for mega points.
Tip: When in the Final Draw multiball, you can hit the extra ball button one time per multiball to re-light the jackpot instead of hitting a ramp.
Just my thoughts.

R Ramp L Ramp Spinner. You'll be facing Germany in no time.

I got 11 goals in the final yesterday, seemed pretty good.

#4490 1 year ago
Quoted from RonaldRayGun:

Spinner, spinner, spinner also works.

This is true!

#4507 1 year ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Nope - that was old WMS stock of a prototype playfieild. I bought it, which is why it's out of stock. Heh. (Study it, you'll see a LOT of changes.. And if you're curious about any, let me know. I can get a better pic.)
I know some sample games still had the numbers, and was wondering how many were out there.

Ah, super interesting score!

1 month later
#4523 1 year ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

I just put together a video on my machine to show to someone out of state who is considering trading my WCS for his JP. Anyways, here is a 20 minute Youtube tour of the machine for anybody that wants way too much information on a specific machine from the inside to the outside.

Two things to know about this potential swap:

DE parts are harder to find and more expensive than Williams parts.
Make DAMN SURE that that T-REX works because that thing is a PAIN to service.

#4525 1 year ago
Quoted from maffewl:

And that WCS94 is a much more awesome game.

Ehh, WCS is probably a better GAME but JP is a cool theme with alot going on and heavy 90's nostalgia. Value wise I'd imagine it's pretty close to a push so condition, condition, condition and whatever makes the players happier.

#4535 1 year ago

What are you trading for it?

#4547 1 year ago
Quoted from BobC:

That question again...sort of
Does anybody have a list of Colored (or white) LED Flashers for WCS94?
My machine is folded up and not working currently so I can't really check
I'm looking at a LED website and they want $45 for the playfield and backbox flashers kits, which is their equivalent cost of 35 colored flashers...
Thanks!
BobC

Hey Bob! I'll try to get out there and count, but it's a bunch, upwards of 20. I'm still using incandescent flashers on mine but the rest is all LED'd.

3 weeks later
#4664 1 year ago

Nice. But I’m still a “go”.

1 week later
#4686 1 year ago
Quoted from wombat:

Looking for the original factory mounting brackets and hardware for the original WCS94 topper ( https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1925-18-SP ) Thanks for your time.[quoted image]

I'd love to see what you come up with, I have one of those and I grabbed some angles but they're not... quite... right... (ha ha!!)

#4701 1 year ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Kinda looks like a Data East game now...

Needs black legs, siderails and lockdown bar!

#4727 1 year ago
Quoted from BobC:

So I spent an hour trying to get them on the phone
So I filled out a contact form and they claim the topper is supposed to be bent
The thing is it's not an even curve, it's bent steeper on one end than the other
And the picture on this thread shows it straight on the top of the pin
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/world-cup-soccer-94-owners-everyone-welcome/page/22#post-1715347
"The plastic by nature is curved to fit on top of the pinball machine and it was designed this way by Bally. This Part is NOS so it was definitely made to curve naturally. Can you do us a favor and go ahead and install it on your game and send us a picture once its installed."
I call BS!
Not to mention you can't install it as there are no brackets available for it.
And mine is "J" shaped not merely curved. It doesn't even make a curve quite right when I try to make an even curve.
Interestingly, my WCS94 does not have holes on top for mounting a topper
BobC

Lol BS. I picked mine up and it’s flat.

No holes on the top of my game either BTW.

1 week later
#4750 1 year ago

Not hard, you will probably need to solder inside the game this time... but it’s not too bad, 2 screws, 2 solders and you’re in business.

You don’t need to replace the other targets BTW, just get a roll of backing foam and peel and stick, no problem. You might need to scrape some of the old foam off but that’s pretty simple.

#4755 1 year ago

F0C4FB1D-E7F6-45E7-8D06-F855BFF16A30 (resized).jpeg

Just like my topper, hahaha.

It was a sponsor ball from something or the other tournament USA.

#4760 1 year ago
Quoted from Backyardace:

I’m very interested in getting a Color DMD for WCS94 but I am on the fence about an LCD or LED version. I currently have a Doctor Who with the LCD so I’m slightly leaning towards LED to see the differences. Would love to hear any input and also for those that went LCD, did it require an additional work like was required for Doctor Who?
Thanks in advance for your input.

Goes straight in. The only reason DW + LCD takes extra work is the light board underneath the DMD. We swapped my buddies out so he could put the lights back in a while back and I definitely like it better than way.

I had a LED in my WCS (it's in TOM now) and it looked great, one of the best I'd seen for color. I have an LCD as well (in my Shadow now) and it also looks great, but the color is a little less bold., which some people seem to prefer. You won't go wrong either way tho.

1 week later
#4799 1 year ago
Quoted from SkaterVet:

Blitzburgh99 Is that an LED or LCD DMD? Are you happy with it?

That is an LCD display in Tile mode.

#4802 1 year ago

Looks like the top one has a printed “Coin Toss” plastic.

#4806 1 year ago
Quoted from SkaterVet:

Was it easy to install?

Super easy... remove old display and spacers, drop in new display and spacers, bolt it down and connect a few plugs. Then you update the display with a usb thumb drive and one button press/hold.

#4811 1 year ago
Quoted from cbdarden:

Just joined the club! It’ll clean up nice..
[quoted image]

GOAAAAAAAALLLLL!

#4815 1 year ago
Quoted from Lame33:

I recently acquired a dog soccer that lives up to the name in more ways than one. It's going to take a ton of training to get this french poodle re-import housebroken. The bark that's annoying me this week is the assist kick-out. Even before I began patching the excessive wear and cleaning it up, it was inconsistent at best. Probably 1 out of 10 shots will anemically limp past the goalie with most just dropping back into the hole. (at this rate it could probably qualify for the US team)
As can be seen in this video.
I could use some idea on what to try next. The game is not set at a steep angle. The parts are all clean. Even the coil sleeve wasn't dirty. I've used super-lube on the metal parts that move against metal parts and the all the motion seems smooth with no interference.

What else am I missing?

Make sure the end of the kicker arm isn't flattened or broken off?

1 week later
#4825 1 year ago

If you're set for easy multiball start, where you can start multiball from the ramp, you can have a second ball in the lock lane.

#4827 1 year ago

Yeah, WCS is my wife’s favorite game and she insists on an easy rule set, so it’ll probably work great for your kids.

1 month later
#4928 1 year ago
Quoted from PURPLEBAT:

And the fourth one?

pasted_image (resized).jpeg

#4932 1 year ago

Pretty sure they're in the solenoid test. Remember you need to hold in the interlock buttons too.

1 month later
#5042 1 year ago
Quoted from Lame33:

Fantastic. I've had it going backwards for 4 months.

Hahaha, I had it going backwards for like 10 years.

#5045 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinzap:

So have you guys never experienced the joy of scoring a goal from the corner kick when it hits the spinning ball and is flung into the goal?? Brings a smile to my face every single time!!

Yeah it was more like “kickback ball straight at the flippers” lol, although my kickback switches were kinda flaky too.

I finally went through a year or so ago and sorted it all back. Really improved the game to be honest!

#5054 1 year ago
Quoted from MotorCityMatt:

Have not opened it up to take a look, but I am guessing ball spinning in the wrong direction on my machine is to desloder 2 wires and switch them? Any buddy have a pic?

Yeah it’s that simple.

2 weeks later
#5085 1 year ago

You just mean the plunger? Yeah I think the Mousin Around one would be fine.

#5087 1 year ago

I believe WCS will use a different plunger spring (needs to be pretty light since it just goes into the coin flip) but pretty sure everything else will be the same. So I'd just use the existing spring if it's not missing.

3 weeks later
#5111 12 months ago

Welcome!

WCS is my wife's favorite game too. She's not a soccer fan but remembers playing it at a hangout in college, and its one of the only games she's ever asked me to buy, along with TOM and Doctor Who.

It took a while to grow on me but it is a pretty good game.

1 week later
#5136 11 months ago

Led 7 is for your 12v and should be on. Pull and test f115 and f116.

#5138 11 months ago

It’s a strip of flags, there are pix earlier in this thread.

Never seen that soccer ball before but it looks pretty at home there!

1 week later
#5144 11 months ago

That lit speaker panel looks pretty good.

#5147 11 months ago

Quite a bargain at only $500 + $15 shipping!

#5151 11 months ago
Quoted from Dr-pin:

So I'm contemplating getting this as a first pin.
The object I'm looking at has some dents. The ball is not spinning, and it's registering goal all the time.
This doesn't seem like two unovercomeable hurdles?
Is there other stuff i should look out for?
Batterydmg? Other usual chinks?
Much appreciating any help/advice.

All fixable. Do it, great game especially if you like the sport.

The only real killer is bad ramps or a missing mech. Ramps are rumored to be available any day now. Replacing a missing goalie or soccer ball might be complicated. An apparently NOS goalie mechanism just showed up on eBay and it is $500US plus shipping.

The spinning ball is cool but even if it’s totally dead it doesn’t actually change the game THAT much... it’s more important that the moving goalie works.

#5154 11 months ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

Playfield wear, especially the kickout holes and if the flippers have been dragging. Most everything else is fixable

You know, PF wear is only really “bad” if you’re picky about that kind of thing tho. Usually it doesn’t hurt game play much and hey, it’s great way to get a good deal since the “collectors” usually won’t touch a worn PF with a 10 foot pole... unless it’s a rare title they can do a swap on. Just know that you’re buying a “players game” in that event.

Heck, my WCS has some wear at the saucers and people are still constantly asking if I’m selling it, it’s kinda crazy. I hang with a lot of players tho.

Obviously a clean playfield is preferable.

And hey, I see that ramps are available now so that’s great!

2 weeks later
#5172 10 months ago
Quoted from perryd:

Just wanted to share some photos of a recent full restoration (New Playfield, ramps, Decal Job) I completed this spring of WCS all blinged out with chrome. Other examples on www.pookiespinballs.com.
Great working with this wonderful pinsider "Bladerunner" on his great games.
thanks
Perry
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Wow.

I’m not sure I’ll ever “get” chrome coin doors... but man that is a great looking machine.

4 weeks later
#5195 9 months ago

D8D46C83-7428-4A39-81E7-3AED7BB7FE47 (resized).jpeg
F850B8E9-281B-474A-9C1E-5DE92C9CB7A0 (resized).jpeg

Here’s what I got.

Forgive the dirt, hasn’t been shopped in like 10 years.

3 weeks later
#5263 9 months ago

Right is subjective. People used to say Mylar made the game not play right, and then they said clearcoating makes games not play right and now we Mylar clearcoated games, lol. It’s just a different feel.

Some people say Cliffys make a game not play right. Some people say Titan flipper rubbers make a game not play right. Hell some people say LEDs make a game not play right.

I don’t care for full PF protectors myself, but if you have bad damage you just can’t deal with this might be a great option. I have played games with them on tho and it doesn’t ruin the game or anything. It’s just a little different.

#5281 8 months ago
Quoted from joelbob:

For those of you that haven't seen this post...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-big-is-too-big-for-a-dmd-
I just did it to my WCS and I love it. [quoted image]
photographing colors is hard...

That's actually kind of bad ass!

#5284 8 months ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

What about when your score goes into the billions? How's it look then?

The same as it did before but bigger?

#5288 8 months ago
Quoted from joelbob:

Here is a video with the screen of and then a little more gameplay.

Any chance you could just video a couple minutes of the attract mode? It has some cool animations I’d love to see.

#5302 8 months ago
Quoted from joelbob:

Sometimes when I’m rewarded Multiball through I think the striker hole I only get 2 balls. Is that normal?

Pretty sure that’s normal, since the game doesn’t have a ball in the lock for you. Or it might think you have a ball in the lock. Maybe check your ball lock switches?

#5307 8 months ago

Pretty sure he means when Striker just awards you multiball. I think it’s a “bozo award”... pretty sure you may see it on ball 3 if you haven’t made a lot of progress but I don’t know for sure.

I have seen it happen, but I’d have to do some experiments to figure out what the exact situation is.

1 month later
#5350 7 months ago

Hey guys, I have a full set of Pinball Bulbs LEDs with speaker lights, and a set of blue Titan rings with purple posts that I won’t be using. This would be over $300 new, any interest at $200 shipped (US only please) PM me. Thanks!

2 weeks later
#5393 6 months ago
Quoted from fatality83:

Does anyone else have an issue where there game constantly thinks there is a switch bad because it wasn't activated is some time so it brings up the credit dot. I had a little party over the weekend and towards the end I noticed a switch 47 errror. Once I activated the switch the error went away. Then when I was playing last night, I noticed a credit dot in the middle of the game. By the end of the game, the dot was gone as I guess I activated whatever switch it though was bad . Is there anyway to turn this off or have it come up less often?

Yep that happens. My game does that too, in my it’s a flaky trough opto. There’s no way to disable it, so either wait for it to show up again or track it down in switch test.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 8.50
Lighting - Led
Pinball Haus
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
Trade
Machine - For Trade
Garden City, NY
From: $ 369.95
Boards
PinSound
$ 50.00
From: $ 130.20
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
PinWoofer
$ 47.00

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider gunstarhero.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside