Just joined the club yesterday!

Tearing it down and getting her all cleaned up.

I want to LED this one pretty bad, (frosted/natural whites only) does anybody have a somewhat decent list of types and quantities of bulbs to grab from Comet? I've spent the better part of 6 hours reading through this thread, and it doesn't appear very comprehensive.

GGGGOOOOOOOAAAAAALLLLLLLLLL!!!!!!!

Thanks chuckwurt!

Outstanding RonaldRayGun!!! Thank you!!!

One last dumb thing...

What color flipper rubbers does everyone prefer on these? I REALLY like PBL's perfect plays, so I was thinking purple, but may just go with the old standard red.

Mine has LA2 as well.

I will check those connectors when I get home for you.

Looks like you're missing the that strobe above the coin toss mech and maybe a strobe back by the buy ticket rollovers...

And I'm only on LA1 apparently

IMG_1352 (resized).JPG

IMG_1353 (resized).JPG

Looking further at the pics, it appears the rear, upper ramp harnesses aren't connected, along with the midfield, lower ramp harness. Does the right ramp entrance signage light up to indicate "buy ticket", etc? Are the 3 "overhead" back playfield gi lamps on?

Welcome to the club, and pinball ownership!

First things first, wcs has a TON of bulbs; about 120 #555, and about 40 #44. I just led'd mine a month or so back (all warm white) with a mixture of flat topped for inserts (under playfield) and domed smd for general illumination (top of playfield). I did NOT buy a kit, as they are pricey for what they are, and you are relying on someone else's taste. All said and done, I think I spent around $60 to FULLY led this one.

The stadium lighting could be a bad light board, but I'm betting a broken connection as it is mounted behind the playfield and gets rubbed everytime the playfield is put up or down. Try to perform a lighting test in the audit menu (the four switches in the coin door) and see if it lights up that way.

Looking at the last picture you posted from above of your machine regarding the ball hop, it appears your ball guide is riding "up" a little bit. WCS does not have "typical" in lane ball guides, but rather, out lane style guides on the in lanes. Remove the right slingshot plastic (you have to remove a couple nuts, the lower piece of the ramp, and the coin flip guide, not too difficult) and see if you can't bend it down a little. Use a straight edge to check the alignment after to be sure its straight, and drop a couple balls through until the hop disappears. You probably shouldn't have to remove the guide.

Before throwing money chasing a problem on your machine, see if you can't determine the root cause of the problem and use the simplest fix (a broken connector that needs to be re-soldered, a mechanism that has worked it self loose and just needs to be re-tightened, a sticky switch or mechanism that has stopped or reduced functioning and just needs to be cleaned, a guide or rubber that needs adjustment, etc). From my experience, components rarely actually physically fail in machines, they just need some adjustment or persuasion. These are robust, commercial grade machines for the most part, and are generally built to take a beating. Always start with the simplest fix, and go from there.

Good luck, and happy flipping!

I'm almost positive that yellow circle is NOT for the stadium lighting, but rather the back left GI under the plastic disc with the player doing a flare kick...I'm almost positive no power goes from that board circled to the stadium lighting.

I'm positive the light board for the stadium lighting is mounted directly to the back wall, you should check behind it to see that the connection is solid when you have the playfield up on the safety rails (playfield pulled towards you). If this doesn't work, we can talk you through jumpering to a good source to further test it.

I would be very weary of spraying anything in that motor, "wet" lubricants tend to gunk everything up and attract all kinds of grime. I'd even be weary of any kind of "dry" lube for the same reasons. If you really think it needs something, try taking it apart and maybe cleaning it with alcohol or some other water free solvent, and letting it completely dry before reinstalling it.

As for the ball guide/hop issue, wcs doesn't have "traditional" in lane ball guides; put a straight edge across it and make sure there is no lift. The picture you posted beforehand makes it look like there is significant raising in that area.

Also, with any new pin I acquire, I look through the cabinet floor thoroughly for any screws/do-dads that have fallen in there. I usually comb through it with a magnet to make sure I get into every nook and cranny. Check around the speaker magnets as well; I have yet to get a pin that didn't have a screw (or 10!) down in the cabinet that worked its way out from the previous owner or from transporting it.

One more thing, haha...

Instead of buying a dedicated level, download the PinGuy app for your phone (or any other free leveling app) and place it on the playfield (Not the glass!) and adjust until you have it where you want it. I place the phone in a few spots around the playfield to be sure its "close" corner to corner, but generally level from the dead center of the playfield (half way up, half way across).

Oh come on chuckwurt, let's not scare him yet, haha.

First things first, download the manual from ipdb; literally google wcs owners manual and it will find it for you.

According to the manual I have saved on my phone, the back lighting should be hooked at J120-3 and J120-9 and should be a white-yellow wire. Trace it back until you find the break. It may be pulled out of the board, the connection in the back box may be loose, the actual wire may be broken; look for it. If the fuse is in fact blown, you have a short somewhere as chuckwurt suggested, so you need to find where contact was made and fix the problem before you replace the fuse and re-power.

Looking at your original pics, it's hard to tell if the gi is lit up or not...aside from the obvious that the machine should have light emitting from the bulbs in the slingshots, next to the free-kick saucers, and generally anywhere a rubber is...the various little green boards strewn around the outer perimeter of the underside of the playfield are your gi lighting. Its should take 2 seconds to determine if they are lit up or not, and if some are out.

It shouldn't be too hard to trouble shoot if they are all out, or just a couple.

I would be hesitant with a ton of grease in that motor/gearbox. I would clean everything out that I could (clean with a solvent), then re-lube with a dry-lube like a super light coating of graphite spray. Maybe even a very light coating of bee's/candle wax. Something that will fill the gaps in the machining to provide a "cushion", but not breakdown or attract dirt.

IMHO, you are asking for trouble using a "wet"-lube there. It will attract dust/grime, which will cause binding. The tolerances of the gearing on mine don't seem to be super tight, certainly not "precision machined".

Think of it this way: It's a small, 1/100000th h.p. motor turning a 3 oz plastic half sphere, not a tractor trailer differential.

I am glad you are getting everything figured out. That's half the fun!

haha, now just be sure to set the game to US pricing and use US coin mechs...even though it's on freeplay and probably will be forever...

I did the exact same thing on a Guns N' Roses that was reimported, took me forever to figure it out with all the different styles of coin mechs/world pricing schemas. Even though it will probably never be "on route" again, I JUST HAD TO KNOW it was right, and that all the lighting was correct and working, lol

Glad you got everything figured out. And trust me, you'll have another machine in shortime now that you have all the bugs on this one worked out. I ALMOST enjoy troubleshooting/working on machines more at this point than playing them, and I'm a pretty serious competitive player, haha. It's like a logic problem that you can play after...

pretty much, haha...

still a perennial favorite of mine however. And I HATE soccer!

Scoot

Looks great!

What are you using for gi? I have all warm whites in mine, as I always preferred the look of standard incandescent, but that looks awesome!

Comet bright white 2smds? Domed? A mixture?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1925-XX

Pricey, but really breathes new life into a machine...

Look the ramps over well, the big one has yet to be remade. Look the boards over, especially the gi lighting section for crispy connectors. The saucers will almost certainly have wear; I mylared mine, or pop a cliffy in if it bothers you. It definitely has a lot going on and is packed with "stuff", but has been running reliably for me since I picked mine up.

All my guests love it. It's LOUD (GGGGOOOOAAAAAAALLLLLLLL!!!!!!), it's bright, it's straight forward, satisfying ramps, and really fun.

There is no gate there, but mine kicks the ball back into play (even when corner kick isn't lit) if it exits that way. I imagine it's an adjustment, maybe under difficulty settings? I'll have to look at my manual when I get home.

I bought a replacement goalie cutout and decal from marco a few months back; it's not a "pad" like the regular one, but more of a vinyl/PET material. Haven't noticed a difference in gameplay or durability yet...

Apparently, the coffee is EXTRA strong in Minnesota...

Just a little ribbing, sir, haha

post up some pics!

I would bet you have a cooked pin/connection that corresponds to the power for those coils...I cant imagine those coils ever "burning out" from use...

I have had seen plenty of games with over 1/2 a million flips through the original coils with nothing but new sleeves/stops with nary a sign of fatigue.

Trace the wires back and I bet you'll find your culprit.

Chuckwurt is probably right...make sure there isn't a bunch of gunk built up in them. Previous owner could have "greased" them up with something to get more action out of them, and now they are caked with coil/rubber dust.

I believe the starting team you are, dependent on the country the machine was going to. (This may be an operator setting, my machine is not a reimport and it's always been Holland is the reigning champ after I beat Germany, I just never cared enough to change it)

So yeah, I'm not sure, haha.

Check a few pages back, sataneatscheese had an issue as you describe. Be careful with the type of lube you use, as you don't want it to "gum up" on you. I think he had a problem where he overlubed the mech, and it practically froze up; after he cleaned it out and went lighter, it was good to go.

Marco usually has them in stock...

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/23-6709

You gotta respect a guy that isn't even in the club anymore, dropping by to help a new guy out. Bravo!

1: No; the software makes up for it by kicking the ball back (even if kick back isn't lit) should the ball find its way down there, which on my machine, seems pretty often. Its annoying, however, that if your kick back IS lit, and the ball goes down there, it UNLIGHTS the kick back...

2: almost seems like someone added a post at one point to stop the above from happening...

now I'll have to check mine when I get home; maybe there IS a post there...

Interesting concept, but as chuckwurt said, it won't play "right". But that's up to you.

I'd be more likely to throw a set of cliffy's on to cover any damage, and selectively place mylar at any worn inserts to prevent any further damage. If you're feeling motivated, you can certainly correct the insert wear (there's plenty of guides around these parts), but I'm not sure I would sink that level of time into a player's condition wcs. But again, that's up to you. Good luck with whatever you end up doing.

Do you guys mean RE-awarded (restart) multiball, as in you didn't score a jackpot and drained to one ball, and the game gives you the chance to restart multiball by either shooting the penalty kick saucer by the goal, or the tv scoop during a timer? Because yes, that's normal. There may be other shots that RE-award multiball during that timer, but I can't think of them now...

Being "awarded" multiball from the Striker VUK? Never seen that as a Striker award, and in fact, mine, and everyone I've played have been linear (penalty kick, award 3 goals, 3 cities, extra ball...) maybe my settings are odd?

Now that I think of it, if after playing a multiball that is awarded by shooting the tv scoop after qualifying the 5 inserts and locking a ball, and you don't get a jackpot, you can shoot the ramps to relock a ball during the multiball restart countdown, and then another ball is kicked to the plunger to restart a 2 ball mutliball. If you score a jackpot and then drain to one ball, you are not given the opportunity to restart the smaller, 2 ball multiball.

As for my stryker awards, they are absolutely linear (as are the tv awards). I think after completing the "find stryker" mode (where rudy makes a cameo in the audience!), it just repeats back around to penalty kick. The game isn't set to tournament mode, as it awards playable extra balls, and you can "buy" up to 3 additional balls per game...I think the only setting I changed was that a replay awards an extra ball as the game is set up papa difficulty, and I don't want guests getting too frustrated (and me as well, haha)

That's where I would start as well...

Also, you swapped the light boards and not just the bulbs, right?

As for the switch not registering, you can attempt to bend the arm on the switch up or down slightly, and that may correct it. If not, swap in a new switch, or from an interesting recent post, take it apart and clean the contacts, or soak it in a cleaning solution and dry it out. There's not much to the mechanical mircoswitches.

embarrassing question from a guy that's owned this game for a while now. I've looked and looked, and still can't find it...

How does one change the default home team? My game is set to the Netherlands, no offense to the Dutch, and I want it to be the good ol' USA...

Yes, after beating Germany in either regular final draw multiball or the world cup wizard mode, it states that the Netherlands are the world champions. Can't be having that!

Thank you, will check it out when I get home!

I would gladly take these off your hands!

I was going to be a smartass and say the mini playfield...but I digress

Agree that everything looks good.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinside-rubber-ring-database-by-themetitle#post-4342653

The two times I've had a credit dot appear, it was always the tackle switch not being hit for 50 games, so that should tell you something, haha.

The original intent was for it to be three standup targets, instead of the pre-stern mono-target that it is now.

I think it's 50 million points, but more importantly, oh so satisfying, especially when the final right ramp shot qualifies the lock and the magnet picks it up on the return. Smooth as buttah'!

THE most satisfying thing I have ever done in WCS, and it will probably never happen again as it would be incredibly difficult to line up is:

Shoot the 3 way combo with final draw lit;

when the ball is returned to the left flipper, flip it into stryker's hideout (while extra ball mode is running) for the (uncredited) 4-way combo;

Get the extra ball "CRACK!!!", while also surpassing the replay score and getting another extra ball "CRACK!!";

ball is kicked out of stryker's hideout to the right flipper for a perfectly timed on-the-fly back hand into the scoop (for an uncredited 5-way combo) to start multi-ball.

Hnnngggg!

The star posts have a large diameter at the bottom (at the point of contact they make on the playfield); assuming the playfield is flat, and the base of the star posts are flat, the load from any shear (from the bands wanting to "pull" the three posts inward) should not be enough to cause them to pull off the playfield at their outer edges.

With the bands on, if you can slip a feeler gauge/playing card/etc. between the base of the posts and the playfield, I suspect you have bands that are much too small for the game, the base of the posts/playfield are not truly "flat", or, most likely, the threaded metal rods that secure the posts to the playfield are warped themselves or you're not tightening them enough.

I wouldn't worry about overtightening the posts to the point that you think that you will cause indentations in the playfield/paint...these "cured" LLOOOONNNNGGGG ago, and aren't new machines with pooling/clearcoat issues. They are pretty hard and sturdy. I usually tighten the metal post rods down by hand until I can't twist them with my fingers anymore, then switch to micro crescent wrenches and tighten until there is good resistance. You shouldn't be able to slide the posts around when they are secured. Hope this helps.

Tournament mode cancels extra ball buy-ins, awards points for extra balls (but is a setting I believe for the amount), and as far as I know, the stryker/tv awards are always in the same order, no matter the setting.

The ramp entrance switches should cue the "Awwwwwwww…." sound effect, but the ramp doesn't "count" until further switches down the line are hit; if you half-ramp a shot, it doesn't advance the 5 lock qualifiers for instance.

There's a ball guide and two posts there that may need adjustment if they send the ball directly to the outlane. Mine exits (after a "travel" shot) and hits the middle of the left sling. It was designed purposefully like that to send the ball out of control as stated by chuckwurt. I've played one where it sent the ball directly to the left flipper for an easy catch, and it made the game way too easy.

It's hard to see with the glass on (and with the right ramp on), but all the way to the right of the right ramp is the stainless ball guide, and two posts. The posts have rubber post sleeves on them (make sure you have the right thickness ones (the ball may be deflecting off of one because the rubber is too thick and sending it to the outlane, try using the slow mo mode on your phone to see if that's the case), or the guide may need some slight tweaking inward or outward.

To repeat myself from a few weeks back:

THE most satisfying thing I have ever done in WCS, and it will probably never happen again as it would be incredibly difficult to line up is:

Shoot the 3 way combo with final draw lit;

when the ball is returned to the left flipper, flip it into stryker's hideout (while extra ball mode is running) for the (uncredited) 4-way combo;

Get the extra ball "CRACK!!!", while also surpassing the replay score and getting another extra ball "CRACK!!";

ball is kicked out of stryker's hideout to the right flipper for a perfectly timed on-the-fly back hand into the scoop (for an uncredited 5-way combo) to start multi-ball.

Hnnngggg!

(In hindsight, if Washington DC was also lit, you would collect a THIRD extra ball and get another "CRACK!!!") This game is stupid fun.

"It's for the chilrens!!!"

And also me, haha

Mine does that exactly. And has since day 1.

I had this issue intermittently prior to doing a full shop out of the game; It could have been some slight adjustment inadvertently made when reinstalling the mini-playfield, but my guess would be the balls were slightly magnetized, just enough for them to "stick" for a split second to mess up the release of a ball, especially considering the magnet would have just hit them prior if they are locked. Try a couple different or new balls to see if it helps?

Just a thought.

I love when "new" things like this are discovered years later; DE GNR has a bunch of hidden things (which are still being discovered today), and it makes the game all that much more fun trying to discover them.

I can only guess the 5 way was as follows:

left ramp - diverts to right flipper;
left ramp - diverts to left flipper;
right ramp - comes around to the left flipper (standard 3 way combo)

then:

right ramp again - comes around to left flipper
left ramp (backhanded) or right ramp again for the lock and 5 way?

or striker's hideout - sent to right flipper from wireform kickout;
left ramp for the 5 way and the lock?

Clean the optos with rubbing alcohol and some q-tips.

Wipe the new balls down with alcohol and a rag to remove any oil.

Yes, this too! lol...coffee is still kicking in over here.

Have you done a switch test to verify the optos aren't reading the balls as being there? I believe they register as closed when a ball is interrupting a beam.

As to the magnetized ball issue, which is pretty common, the strength of the balls sticking to each other is enough to prevent a ball from rolling into the ball kicker for the inlane.

while a little more labor intensive, a buffing wheel and some polish will clean those up to a mirror finish

I get this on mine every now and then...

It's one of those things that tickles the cockles! So satisfying.

On the topic of the spinner...I'd like to "juice" mine...any advice on what to use, adjustments, how to, etc.?

Thank you sir!

Stuck goalie switch maybe? Stuck trough switch? Run a switch edge test to see if something’s closed that shouldn’t normally be.

I bet the flip side of that pin has a cold solder joint from nearly 30 years of vibration and heat. From my experience, when things turn on and off from giving a connector the ol' "shimmy-shimmy", it's that there is either a burnt connector, or a cold joint on the pin. Or, the wire itself has pulled slightly out of the connector and needs to be reseated with a small flathead screwdriver, or the actual tool thingy used to punch down wires into the connector.

Warm/sunlight 2smd frosted dome is always the answer, haha.

Buy a 100 qty bag each of #44 and #555, it'll have you covered for WCS, and then mostly for another game. I try to always have a bag of each on hand.

I'm going to bet a wire has come off...

Yeah, I read that too fast, my apologies.

If it is a gearbox/motor issue, Marco has them readily available.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/14-7996.1

That looks complete, including the broken/missing "assist/tackle" plastic every game seemingly has

Guessing a wire came off the magnet coil and it needs to be resoldered? Possibly the fuse as well?

I thought it would be too, but it's not that bad. Disassembly is straight forward and intuitive. Do it in sections and take pics. Just be careful with the diverter post and the screw and c-clip positioning, and you should be fine. Good luck, VERY pretty game when cleaned up, fresh rubber, leds.

Finally (accidentally) hit the 5-way combo at the start of a new game the other evening...it scores 30 million and gives a little chime.

sequence as such:

left ramp, ball is fed to right flipper by diverter;
left ramp, ball is fed to left flipper via ramp;
right ramp, ball is fed back to left flipper;
right ramp, ball is fed back to left flipper;
right ramp again to lock ball and award the 5 way combo.

Keep in mind, that the state of the game may only make this combo possible at certain times (as having any of the skills lit would prevent the diverter from bringing the ball over to the right ramp, etc.)

Soccer ball spins whenever the goal is lit...so right from the start of your first ball until you make it. Then starts again when the goal is lit gain by rolling over the four rollover buttons. Can be annoying when small children are playing, and they walk away mid game, leaving the ball spinning for a loooonnnnggggg time.

The magna save can often times be traced to a short in the wiring for it; if I recall, it's ganged up with a bunch of other things and you have to be sure a single strand isn't touching something else, though that could be the wiring for the target that enables it...been a while since I dealt with an issue with the magnet.

mine does not do that...only at the actual start of a game being played

Getting the ramps out is the hardest part, but they come out intuitively. Once they are out, everything is accessible. Make sure you leave the set screw in the diverter post, as you want it lined up perfectly when you reinsert it. Also, don't lose the little c clip for it. The ramp signs are on molex connectors, and unplug for easily getting them through the playfield.

The first time I did WCS, it was a full afternoon job; now, I could probably do it in 2-3 hours.

I read somewhere that the designers felt that "true green" was a bad color on playfields and wasn't visually appealing. Also, this was the early-mid '90's, so TEAL TEAL TEAL!!! PURPLE PURPLE PURPLE! (See also Charlotte Hornets from this timeframe)

Just replace it/re-pin it with a correctly spaced/sized molex connector. Molex all of the things!

I picked a bag up of various 4-13 pin sized connectors with a bunch of new crimp on pins for $12 at a local electronics store, and it has paid for itself many times over.

Haha, sorry about that. It "could" be replaced with a .156 molex style connector with the correct number of corresponding pins on it. Or replace it with a new IDC connector (which you have now).

I'd do an 8 pin and a 3 pin, and use something to block the key if you can't find a 12 pin.

I prefer "lock socket" style (they have a little lip/locking tab molded into the connector itself) as they will never wiggle free.

I have a pretty nice copy of wcs94, and I’ve played probably 30+ others, and I don’t think I’ve ever seen (or at least noticed) that sticker, at least U.S. State side. Export specific thing maybe?

I’d imagine this was an “interesting” game, license-wise, when it came out, 28 years ago…of course when I played it as a young person, that never occurred to me.

(Also, I’m not currently home to run downstairs and check, haha)

Was passing by the game row in the basement yesterday and decided to play a quick game of WCS; noticed that the two freekick saucers were very weak, barely able to dribble the ball out (when they were strong the last time I played). The goal assist is still strong. My wife plays it frequently, so I don't think this just happened, but was more progressive. Going to take both apart later tonight and give the sleeves a good cleaning.

Before I pull the manual out, does anybody know off the top of their heads where the connectors for these two kickouts are in the backbox/underside of the playfield? I imagine these don't get crispy too often based on their in-game usage, but I figure it's worth a check/connection re-seat/ re-punch.

I replace every flaky/burnt/etc. idc connector with off the shelf .156 molex connectors of the appropriate pin number. In a pinch, I have used a 5 pin and a 6 pin when I didn't have an 11 pin sitting around. Invest in a $25 crimper and never look back!

Never understood the point of some seemingly random double looped wires either; perhaps for redundancy in connection? Whenever I've encountered a double terminated wire coming/going to the same board side pin, I just strip the wire and crimp a pin on, and have never had a problem.

Make sure the wire form is centered over the VUK so it catches it and makes no contact with the vertical portion of the wire form. Try capturing it in slow motion with your phone to see if the ball is bouncing around in there on the way up.

I have a friend with a WCS that upon powering the game on, the ball starts spinning. The ball spins in attract mode. It slightly slows down during gameplay after a goal is scored, but never actually stops spinning, even when unqualified. I’m guessing it’s a bad transistor, but I’m not sure. Anybody had this happen before?

I’m guessing it’s unrelated, but he called me over because the right side standup target in front of the left ramp snapped off. That’s when I noticed the ball spinning upon power up.

Im going to break the manual out when I get home, but figured I could get a jump start on troubleshooting.

Flipper Interrupter Part #03-9001...Located on the flipper boards mounted inside the cabinet next to each corresponding flipper button.

99.9999999% sure the coils are fine.

Buy a flipper rebuild kit as well to get that classic wpc flipper snappiness back. Part#A-13524-8

Read up on Vid's guide if you haven't rebuilt flipper before.