(Topic ID: 50131)

World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.


By DEWSHO

7 years ago



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#4263 1 year ago

Just joined the club yesterday!

Tearing it down and getting her all cleaned up.

I want to LED this one pretty bad, (frosted/natural whites only) does anybody have a somewhat decent list of types and quantities of bulbs to grab from Comet? I've spent the better part of 6 hours reading through this thread, and it doesn't appear very comprehensive.

GGGGOOOOOOOAAAAAALLLLLLLLLL!!!!!!!

#4265 1 year ago

Thanks chuckwurt!

#4267 1 year ago

Outstanding RonaldRayGun!!! Thank you!!!

One last dumb thing...

What color flipper rubbers does everyone prefer on these? I REALLY like PBL's perfect plays, so I was thinking purple, but may just go with the old standard red.

#4276 1 year ago

Mine has LA2 as well.

I will check those connectors when I get home for you.

#4277 1 year ago

Looks like you're missing the that strobe above the coin toss mech and maybe a strobe back by the buy ticket rollovers...

And I'm only on LA1 apparently

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#4278 1 year ago

Looking further at the pics, it appears the rear, upper ramp harnesses aren't connected, along with the midfield, lower ramp harness. Does the right ramp entrance signage light up to indicate "buy ticket", etc? Are the 3 "overhead" back playfield gi lamps on?

2 weeks later
#4318 1 year ago

Welcome to the club, and pinball ownership!

First things first, wcs has a TON of bulbs; about 120 #555, and about 40 #44. I just led'd mine a month or so back (all warm white) with a mixture of flat topped for inserts (under playfield) and domed smd for general illumination (top of playfield). I did NOT buy a kit, as they are pricey for what they are, and you are relying on someone else's taste. All said and done, I think I spent around $60 to FULLY led this one.

The stadium lighting could be a bad light board, but I'm betting a broken connection as it is mounted behind the playfield and gets rubbed everytime the playfield is put up or down. Try to perform a lighting test in the audit menu (the four switches in the coin door) and see if it lights up that way.

#4343 1 year ago

Looking at the last picture you posted from above of your machine regarding the ball hop, it appears your ball guide is riding "up" a little bit. WCS does not have "typical" in lane ball guides, but rather, out lane style guides on the in lanes. Remove the right slingshot plastic (you have to remove a couple nuts, the lower piece of the ramp, and the coin flip guide, not too difficult) and see if you can't bend it down a little. Use a straight edge to check the alignment after to be sure its straight, and drop a couple balls through until the hop disappears. You probably shouldn't have to remove the guide.

Before throwing money chasing a problem on your machine, see if you can't determine the root cause of the problem and use the simplest fix (a broken connector that needs to be re-soldered, a mechanism that has worked it self loose and just needs to be re-tightened, a sticky switch or mechanism that has stopped or reduced functioning and just needs to be cleaned, a guide or rubber that needs adjustment, etc). From my experience, components rarely actually physically fail in machines, they just need some adjustment or persuasion. These are robust, commercial grade machines for the most part, and are generally built to take a beating. Always start with the simplest fix, and go from there.

Good luck, and happy flipping!

#4346 1 year ago

I'm almost positive that yellow circle is NOT for the stadium lighting, but rather the back left GI under the plastic disc with the player doing a flare kick...I'm almost positive no power goes from that board circled to the stadium lighting.

I'm positive the light board for the stadium lighting is mounted directly to the back wall, you should check behind it to see that the connection is solid when you have the playfield up on the safety rails (playfield pulled towards you). If this doesn't work, we can talk you through jumpering to a good source to further test it.

I would be very weary of spraying anything in that motor, "wet" lubricants tend to gunk everything up and attract all kinds of grime. I'd even be weary of any kind of "dry" lube for the same reasons. If you really think it needs something, try taking it apart and maybe cleaning it with alcohol or some other water free solvent, and letting it completely dry before reinstalling it.

As for the ball guide/hop issue, wcs doesn't have "traditional" in lane ball guides; put a straight edge across it and make sure there is no lift. The picture you posted beforehand makes it look like there is significant raising in that area.

#4347 1 year ago

Also, with any new pin I acquire, I look through the cabinet floor thoroughly for any screws/do-dads that have fallen in there. I usually comb through it with a magnet to make sure I get into every nook and cranny. Check around the speaker magnets as well; I have yet to get a pin that didn't have a screw (or 10!) down in the cabinet that worked its way out from the previous owner or from transporting it.

#4349 1 year ago

One more thing, haha...

Instead of buying a dedicated level, download the PinGuy app for your phone (or any other free leveling app) and place it on the playfield (Not the glass!) and adjust until you have it where you want it. I place the phone in a few spots around the playfield to be sure its "close" corner to corner, but generally level from the dead center of the playfield (half way up, half way across).

#4356 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Check you fuses for what relates to that particular line of lights. I bet it’s blown. You may have a short in that line of lights if the fuse blows again. Have fun finding it. Haha

Oh come on chuckwurt, let's not scare him yet, haha.

First things first, download the manual from ipdb; literally google wcs owners manual and it will find it for you.

According to the manual I have saved on my phone, the back lighting should be hooked at J120-3 and J120-9 and should be a white-yellow wire. Trace it back until you find the break. It may be pulled out of the board, the connection in the back box may be loose, the actual wire may be broken; look for it. If the fuse is in fact blown, you have a short somewhere as chuckwurt suggested, so you need to find where contact was made and fix the problem before you replace the fuse and re-power.

#4357 1 year ago

Looking at your original pics, it's hard to tell if the gi is lit up or not...aside from the obvious that the machine should have light emitting from the bulbs in the slingshots, next to the free-kick saucers, and generally anywhere a rubber is...the various little green boards strewn around the outer perimeter of the underside of the playfield are your gi lighting. Its should take 2 seconds to determine if they are lit up or not, and if some are out.

It shouldn't be too hard to trouble shoot if they are all out, or just a couple.

2 weeks later
#4461 1 year ago

I would be hesitant with a ton of grease in that motor/gearbox. I would clean everything out that I could (clean with a solvent), then re-lube with a dry-lube like a super light coating of graphite spray. Maybe even a very light coating of bee's/candle wax. Something that will fill the gaps in the machining to provide a "cushion", but not breakdown or attract dirt.

IMHO, you are asking for trouble using a "wet"-lube there. It will attract dust/grime, which will cause binding. The tolerances of the gearing on mine don't seem to be super tight, certainly not "precision machined".

Think of it this way: It's a small, 1/100000th h.p. motor turning a 3 oz plastic half sphere, not a tractor trailer differential.

I am glad you are getting everything figured out. That's half the fun!

#4479 1 year ago

haha, now just be sure to set the game to US pricing and use US coin mechs...even though it's on freeplay and probably will be forever...

I did the exact same thing on a Guns N' Roses that was reimported, took me forever to figure it out with all the different styles of coin mechs/world pricing schemas. Even though it will probably never be "on route" again, I JUST HAD TO KNOW it was right, and that all the lighting was correct and working, lol

Glad you got everything figured out. And trust me, you'll have another machine in shortime now that you have all the bugs on this one worked out. I ALMOST enjoy troubleshooting/working on machines more at this point than playing them, and I'm a pretty serious competitive player, haha. It's like a logic problem that you can play after...

#4485 1 year ago

pretty much, haha...

still a perennial favorite of mine however. And I HATE soccer!

1 month later
#4569 1 year ago
Quoted from Scoot:

Added a topper today. Added leds and a flasher to go off when a goal is scored. I am really happy with the results.
[quoted image]

scoot

Looks great!

What are you using for gi? I have all warm whites in mine, as I always preferred the look of standard incandescent, but that looks awesome!

Comet bright white 2smds? Domed? A mixture?

1 week later
#4601 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Positive:

I have a good copy that is working well and I have done some basic rehab with it (massive cleaning, LEDs, etc).
Overall, my plastics are very rough. Either heavily yellowed, warped or broken in spots. Any recommendations on getting new ones and if they need to be decaled by me or if they come complete?
Thanks!

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1925-XX

Pricey, but really breathes new life into a machine...

#4646 1 year ago

Look the ramps over well, the big one has yet to be remade. Look the boards over, especially the gi lighting section for crispy connectors. The saucers will almost certainly have wear; I mylared mine, or pop a cliffy in if it bothers you. It definitely has a lot going on and is packed with "stuff", but has been running reliably for me since I picked mine up.

4 weeks later
#4748 1 year ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

A bunch of my daughters friends stopped by on their bikes last evening....she said one of her friends couldn’t stop playing WCS94! It’s always the biggest hit with the teens.

All my guests love it. It's LOUD (GGGGOOOOAAAAAAALLLLLLLL!!!!!!), it's bright, it's straight forward, satisfying ramps, and really fun.

1 month later
#4843 1 year ago
Quoted from accidental:

Should there be a gate, or perhaps game code, to prevent losing balls out the Corner Kick lane exit? There is a switch at the top half of the kickback lane so the game knows when a ball has entered from the Corner Kick lane exit as opposed to via the regular outlane gap. Sucks to lose a ball that way!

Is there anywhere to buy replacement goalie pads? My pad is shattered. I could make repro myself, just need to find a suitable material to get laser cut and apply a polycarbonate decal.

There is no gate there, but mine kicks the ball back into play (even when corner kick isn't lit) if it exits that way. I imagine it's an adjustment, maybe under difficulty settings? I'll have to look at my manual when I get home.

I bought a replacement goalie cutout and decal from marco a few months back; it's not a "pad" like the regular one, but more of a vinyl/PET material. Haven't noticed a difference in gameplay or durability yet...

1 month later
#4922 1 year ago

Apparently, the coffee is EXTRA strong in Minnesota...

Just a little ribbing, sir, haha

#4939 1 year ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:

Haha I had no idea any of these were supposed to be gold until this recent convo. My legs aren’t original—they are chrome. But the ramp and coin toss are both gray metallic (and I had assumed they always were). I took a flashlight out and inspected the coin toss box—sure enough, there are some traces of brass-colored coating hidden in the shadows .
I think I’ll pass on any major renovations—I’m quite happy with the current appearance.

post up some pics!

#4962 1 year ago
Quoted from dugmar:

I have searched this thread but have not found the answers. Both my free kick saucers are very weak. On on the right barely enough oomph to get it out of the saucer. In fact, sometimes not enough, and the game tries several times to release the ball from the saucer. Is there a way to adjust the strength of this? The mechanism seems to move freely, coil sleeves look and feel good.
Time to replace the coils? Thanks.

I would bet you have a cooked pin/connection that corresponds to the power for those coils...I cant imagine those coils ever "burning out" from use...

I have had seen plenty of games with over 1/2 a million flips through the original coils with nothing but new sleeves/stops with nary a sign of fatigue.

Trace the wires back and I bet you'll find your culprit.

#4964 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Start with the mech itself and make sure nothing is causing binding and spring is working right and snappy. Compare them to the assist saucer mech too. They are all the same.
Coil is fine most likely. They don’t get weak.

Chuckwurt is probably right...make sure there isn't a bunch of gunk built up in them. Previous owner could have "greased" them up with something to get more action out of them, and now they are caked with coil/rubber dust.

1 week later
#4983 1 year ago
Quoted from Zzap:

Does anyone have the details about what changed in P-3?

I believe the starting team you are, dependent on the country the machine was going to. (This may be an operator setting, my machine is not a reimport and it's always been Holland is the reigning champ after I beat Germany, I just never cared enough to change it)

So yeah, I'm not sure, haha.

#4988 1 year ago
Quoted from mikeflan:

Here's a tech question for everyone before I did deeper into the problem. My soccer ball is turning very slowly. Like maybe 1 or 2 revolutions per second compared to a a normal 5-10 revolutions per second. Anyone else experienced this before? I'm planning to drill out the rivets in the gearbox and regrease everything in hopes that that is the issue (and avoid the cost for a new unit), but if anyone has any other ideas, let me know.
Mike

Check a few pages back, sataneatscheese had an issue as you describe. Be careful with the type of lube you use, as you don't want it to "gum up" on you. I think he had a problem where he overlubed the mech, and it practically froze up; after he cleaned it out and went lighter, it was good to go.

#5005 1 year ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

And where is everyone getting replacement soccer balls from?

Marco usually has them in stock...

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/23-6709

1 month later
#5095 1 year ago

You gotta respect a guy that isn't even in the club anymore, dropping by to help a new guy out. Bravo!

2 months later
#5190 9 months ago

1: No; the software makes up for it by kicking the ball back (even if kick back isn't lit) should the ball find its way down there, which on my machine, seems pretty often. Its annoying, however, that if your kick back IS lit, and the ball goes down there, it UNLIGHTS the kick back...

2: almost seems like someone added a post at one point to stop the above from happening...

#5194 9 months ago

now I'll have to check mine when I get home; maybe there IS a post there...

3 weeks later
#5262 9 months ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

Just joined the club and wanted to seek some advice.
The play field is pretty good, but has a decent amount of wear around the kick outs, goalie and some inserts. Has anyone used the overlay from pinball.center?
https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/world-cup-soccer/9640/printed-playfield-protector-for-world-cup-soccer?number=65315

Interesting concept, but as chuckwurt said, it won't play "right". But that's up to you.

I'd be more likely to throw a set of cliffy's on to cover any damage, and selectively place mylar at any worn inserts to prevent any further damage. If you're feeling motivated, you can certainly correct the insert wear (there's plenty of guides around these parts), but I'm not sure I would sink that level of time into a player's condition wcs. But again, that's up to you. Good luck with whatever you end up doing.

1 week later
#5303 8 months ago

Do you guys mean RE-awarded (restart) multiball, as in you didn't score a jackpot and drained to one ball, and the game gives you the chance to restart multiball by either shooting the penalty kick saucer by the goal, or the tv scoop during a timer? Because yes, that's normal. There may be other shots that RE-award multiball during that timer, but I can't think of them now...

Being "awarded" multiball from the Striker VUK? Never seen that as a Striker award, and in fact, mine, and everyone I've played have been linear (penalty kick, award 3 goals, 3 cities, extra ball...) maybe my settings are odd?

#5305 8 months ago

Now that I think of it, if after playing a multiball that is awarded by shooting the tv scoop after qualifying the 5 inserts and locking a ball, and you don't get a jackpot, you can shoot the ramps to relock a ball during the multiball restart countdown, and then another ball is kicked to the plunger to restart a 2 ball mutliball. If you score a jackpot and then drain to one ball, you are not given the opportunity to restart the smaller, 2 ball multiball.

As for my stryker awards, they are absolutely linear (as are the tv awards). I think after completing the "find stryker" mode (where rudy makes a cameo in the audience!), it just repeats back around to penalty kick. The game isn't set to tournament mode, as it awards playable extra balls, and you can "buy" up to 3 additional balls per game...I think the only setting I changed was that a replay awards an extra ball as the game is set up papa difficulty, and I don't want guests getting too frustrated (and me as well, haha)

2 months later
#5432 6 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Check you GI connectors in the backbox. Likely brown, overheating.

That's where I would start as well...

Also, you swapped the light boards and not just the bulbs, right?

As for the switch not registering, you can attempt to bend the arm on the switch up or down slightly, and that may correct it. If not, swap in a new switch, or from an interesting recent post, take it apart and clean the contacts, or soak it in a cleaning solution and dry it out. There's not much to the mechanical mircoswitches.

3 weeks later
#5463 5 months ago

embarrassing question from a guy that's owned this game for a while now. I've looked and looked, and still can't find it...

How does one change the default home team? My game is set to the Netherlands, no offense to the Dutch, and I want it to be the good ol' USA...

#5467 5 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Default home team? Never seen this.

Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Don't believe you can change that. After you beat Germany, USA becomes the champs but afaik that's the only change made to the lineup.

Yes, after beating Germany in either regular final draw multiball or the world cup wizard mode, it states that the Netherlands are the world champions. Can't be having that!

Quoted from Coyote:

I think you may be thinking of Adjustment A.2 14: Final Match Challenger.

Thank you, will check it out when I get home!

1 month later
#5535 4 months ago

I would gladly take these off your hands!

2 months later
#5670 61 days ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Missing nothing. You’re good.

I was going to be a smartass and say the mini playfield...but I digress

Agree that everything looks good.

3 weeks later
#5746 34 days ago
Quoted from jetmechinnc:

Oddly enough, I just assumed the rubber chart was in the manual like every other pin Ive owned, I went through it, and nothing! It lists posts coils, etc, I have all the paper work for my game, even the original registration card, but zip on rubber sizes and exact locations. Any light on this subject would be much appreciated since I will eventually change out the white rubbers with Titan synthetic rubbers.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinside-rubber-ring-database-by-themetitle#post-4342653

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