(Topic ID: 50131)

World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.


By DEWSHO

6 years ago



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  • 5,181 posts
  • 490 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Gogojohnnyquack
  • Topic is favorited by 172 Pinsiders

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#4406 10 months ago

So I just picked up this title, it's been on my radar for quite a while and was able to work out a trade locally which made things even easier. Game is in decent shape, seen some route in it's life for sure but all in all should clean up nicely. What it really needs is a thorough tear down and shop job including getting rerubbered. I've got the rubber kit on order, trying to find the cliffy's (pm'd cliffy already) and a few other small things I'll do along the way. This will be my first full topside teardown and I'll be going slow and taking pictures of everything along the way. In general I'm just looking for anything from the WCS club that might save me some headaches during the process, any sort of lessons learned/tricks from others who have torn this game down. Any and all suggestions welcome.

Thanks.

#4409 10 months ago

Thanks, these pics are awesome and just want I needed, glad to hear it isn't too bad of a teardown. I've done my whitewater a few times but not fully cause it looks like a royal pain in the ass.

Quoted from chuckwurt:

Go here for more pictures.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/world-cup-soccer-94-shop-out-thread#post-3474543
Games not too bad to tear down. Take your time and take a million pictures and put groups of parts into bags.

CheesySatan.

New soccer ball/motor already, I ordered some bulk frosted wedges and bayonets from comet so those will be going in. I really like those pop bumper lights chuckwurt put in .....

Its still sitting in the middle of my foyer at the moment, about as unlevelled as you possibly could make it.....girlfriend won't leave it alone.

#4411 10 months ago

Thanks Hisokajp....

Is the sequence of disassembly pretty self explanatory once you start the teardown?

I'm planning on putting the cliffy set in during all this, if i can get it. Has anyone had any issues with the cliffy's making the saucer shots more unreliable/difficult?

#4413 10 months ago

Chuckwurt....

best friends (resized).png ....aw man...gif didn't work....you get the idea.

There's some wear around the saucer hole i was hoping to cover with the cliffy's, i guess i'll make that decision once i get it tore down and the playfield cleaned and waxed.

#4419 10 months ago

Yeah, I ordered the full set that has the carbon fiber ones for the saucer holes. I'm probably gonna go with them, they don't look very easy to remove so if I don't like the way they are playing then I'm just gonna have to suck it up till the next teardown. If the holes were in a little better shape i'd go with the mylar but this is not the case.

#4454 10 months ago

Hey guys,

Trying to find the pn for this white sleeve, it's used all over the playfield and most of mine are pretty roached out. I couldn't identify it in the parts list on ipdb..... any help appreciated.

Thanks.

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#4458 10 months ago
Quoted from Archon9000:

I can't confirm 100%... but this seems like it's it :
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8371

Yup, I think that's it. Thanks.

#4462 10 months ago

Got the topside of my WCS pretty much tore down, all the replacement parts on order (rubbers/star posts/flippers) so it's time to start cleaning. I was thinking about sending the metal ball guide through the media blaster and was wondering if anyone has done this. The finish blaster at work isn't very aggressive and did a pretty good job of cleaning up a scoop I tried it on. It certainly doesn't come out looking polished and I lack the patience and carpal endurance to polish them by hand. It did come out with a nice even matte finish though, which i think is an improvement over the unevenly worn finish they are currently in. Sorry, I don't have a before pic but here's what it looked like after.

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2 months later
#4674 7 months ago

I just leave the nut on the back threaded on a few turns and tap the nutdriver handle a little and they pop right up. Then take the nut off and they are loose enough to pull out by hand.

1 week later
#4724 7 months ago

It is my understanding that the 2nd gate you are referring too, to the right of the pops, will only open when the Travel light is lit and you hit the left orbit. Any other times the gate is closed and SHOULD put the ball in the pops. Are you saying it doesn't go through even when Travel is lit?

#4726 7 months ago

You sure it's not getting hung up on the left gate flap? Pull the glass, go into solenoid test mode and try to see if the flap is moving correctly. Maybe try rolling some balls through the gate in test mode to see if you can hear anything hitting. maybe the spring came off and the flap isn't actually coming up? I'm not in front of my machine so it's difficult to recommend much more than that at the moment.

#4731 7 months ago

Ah....you are correct about that gate. Sorry for the misleading info. Glad you sorted it out, reminded me of this classic.

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1 month later
#4847 5 months ago
Quoted from accidental:

Indeed I found it last night under the name "Header Save" which is why I hadn't spotted it prior because the LH bumper has the name "header" on it so I mistakenly assumed it was referring to that.
While I was at it I also enabled the ramps to start multi-ball feature. I won't shoot for them but it makes it easier for my wife and kids to have fun with the game.

Good to know, I will probably pick that up next time I'm ordering parts. Marco's shipping costs to New Zealand are mental — $48 just for the flat goalie pad!

I had the same issue with the broken goalie pad. I just cut one out of a cheap 1/8" white plastic cutting board. Traced out the old pad, cut it rough with tin snips and then sanded it down till it was the same shape, drilled the mounting holes and stuck on a new decal. It actually came out really nice and plays perfectly. I think the cutting board cost me about 3 bucks at the family dollar.

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