(Topic ID: 50131)

World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.


7 years ago

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#1395 5 years ago

Hey guys -
Okay, need some help. Once I get my game (early 2015 some time), I'm going to be installing the proto/sample playfield.

Not worried about installation, but I can't seem to find a good picture of the left and right inlane inserts. I believe that the colors were changed, but want to verify --

Can anyone grab a pic, or tell me what colors those two inserts are?


1 week later
#1416 5 years ago
Quoted from rollitover:

It's so you can hear it from across the room... or downstairs... or outside.

It's like the dinner bell..

Players from all around will immediately recognize it, and come storming to play!

#1432 5 years ago
Quoted from forensicd:

Yes, everything else seems to be fine, im pretty sure it is blown. Im just not sure if anyone has a fuse like that around here. I was hoping perhaps I could switch it with something more available.

Quoted from HighProtein:

It's getting love at the Video Game Rescue arcade in Jax FL here.
People cheer on the game, fascinating!

Story time:

When this game came out, i was working in an arcade down in Atlanta (where my TZ was, as well). Every lunchtime during the week, we'd have these three business men come in and play the game. They would hoot and hollar with the announcer - so much we could hear them clear outside the arcade in the mall.. "GGGOOAALL!!".

They made my day everytime I was thee and they came in. I started giving them bonus tokens, which they enjoyed the heck out of.

#1436 5 years ago

Anyone want to take a wager on where and how the switch titled "Left Ramp Drop-Thru" would be mounted?

#1439 5 years ago
Quoted from Gov:

Probably the one up on the left ramp before it drops through the hole onto the lower ramp?

Yeah, I'm wondering whether it was on the main ramp, so that all balls would activate it (even ones that exit ramp normally), or somehow mounted so that ONLY balls dropping down into the jets activate it.

Quoted from nicoga3000:

OK, just finished reading the rules and I have a question.
Is there ever a 2-ball multiball?
I had the lock arrow lit earlier and shot the right ramp. When it hit the gate just before the magnet, the sound played for the magnet, but the ball didn't get stopped by the magnet - it just fed to my left flipper. I hit the ramp again and got the same sound (indicating a ball lock again), but the ball fed to my flipper.
However, on another instance, when I hit the right ramp, the ball DID lock by the magnet. Is that an issue in my game that I need to figure out, or is there some reason/mode/progress that would cause that?
E: I should add - the magnet didn't even kick on. It's not as though the lock post didn't work. It just never turned the magnet on.

There's no 'real' 2-ball multiball, but it can be started with only two balls. (i.e. If the lock magnet doesn't catch the ball, or if multiball is started via Striker, a bad lock switch causes the ball to be kicked out after being caught, etc.)

#1445 5 years ago
Quoted from Syco54645:

Actually if you do not lock a ball and just shoot the final draw you will have a two ball multiball.

I thought that you had to at LEAST shoot the ramp (for the game to 'think' you had a ball locked) before Final Draw was lit. i.e. When you complete all skills, the 'Final Draw' doesn't light right away..

#1447 5 years ago
Quoted from nicoga3000:

That's what's happening - game thinks I have locked a ball and Final Draw gets lit. Magnet doesn't engage, so I will only have a 2-ball multiball.
Silly game.
I did manage my first 1bil score this weekend, so that was pretty rad!

Yeah, I'm guessing either the magnet didn't turn on in time, or that switch just up from the magnet wasn't tripped.

Keep in mind, too, that the magnets have a heat breaker in them - if they get too hot (i.e. Get stuck on), it'll trip, deactivating the magnet until it cools down. I do NOT think this is happening in your case, but it's always a possibility..!

#1454 5 years ago

Nice! I haven't ordered mine yet, but *really* tempted to do so..

#1455 5 years ago

Someone had asked if the lock area ever held two balls.

Interestingly, with the change of a setting, you can lock (at least, momentarily) two balls in there -

Change your "A.2 04" setting ("Last Easy Release") to at least 1.

This is the last multiball that allows an 'easy release' - this allows for starting Final Draw by shooting a ramp. After locking the first ball, the ball will be served to plunger like normal. Shoot the second ball up any ramp, and the lock magnet will catch it as well, storing it in the lock area - at least until you shoot the (third) ball in the plunger lane.

#1458 5 years ago
Quoted from Syco54645:

Not on any of the ones I have played. This includes mine, 2 at papa and 2 on route. It must be a software setting. After making all the skills final draw lights right away. I have gotten many 2 ball multiballs from the ball hitting slings then entering the final draw.

Huh. I'd be real interested in seeing your adjustments. The one I'm playing (both on L-2 and P-2) reqiore at least one shot up the ramp.

2 weeks later
#1475 5 years ago
Quoted from diesel:

Hi all,
I'm having problems with my WCS 94. As you can see in the pictures, rows 1 to 5 and row 8 have a ground short. I've checked the CPU board and replaced the U20 (ULN280A) chip, checked the opto boards beneath the playfield and found no problems. Has anyone come across this problem before?

20141228_180733_3-866.jpg 46 KB

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Does the row shorts vanish if the switch connectors are unplugged?

#1477 5 years ago
Quoted from diesel:

I unplugged the switch connectors from the CPU board and yes the row shorts vanish.

Okay, then the issue isn't on your MPU, so don't worry about changing anything on there. Check your playfield wiring.

#1480 5 years ago
Quoted from diesel:

Checked all the wiring plus the diodes above and beneath the playfield, all look OK.
Forgot to mention earlier, I replaced a diode on the 10 opto board(underneath the playfield) . Refer to picture. Do you think there could be further damage to the board?
WMS_10_Opto copy.jpg 117 KB

D13 is for the feed of 12v, so that current doesn't flow from the board into the rest of the +12v feed. Do you know what caused it to go? (If a LED or RECV got shorted to a controlled lamp or GI light or coil, then yeah, U1 and U2 could be bad on the 10-Opto board. (Though, it's odd in that Row 7 and 6 aren't shorted, even though they're also on U2.)

If you unplug J3 (the 12-pin, largest header on the 10-Opto board), do the Row shorts clear?

#1482 5 years ago

Okay -
That last screen you show is *normal*, assuming you have NO balls in the trough! (Trough optos have their own driver board - they do not use the 10-opto driver board.

So yes, likely you will need to replace the U1, U2, and U3, all LM399's. (Or, get a new 10-Opto board.)

#1484 5 years ago
Quoted from diesel:

The balls have been removed.
OK, i'll replace all LM399's on the 10-Opto board, hopefully this solves the problem.
I'll keep you posted.
Thanks again.

Good luck!

#1486 5 years ago
Quoted from diesel:

(1st photo)LM399's replaced, connectors plugged in and still rows 1 to 5 have a ground short.
(2nd photo) I unplugged all connectors from the 10 opto board and switch 24(always closed) and 36(trough stack) are displayed.
Should I just buy a hammer!

Nono, if nothing else, I'll buy the game from you.

Okay, this means that the issue is ON the 10-Opto board, but not related to the chips or that diode.

If you HAVE a different 10-opto board (from another game, example) and try that.

If you don't, check the other diodes on the board. Check traces - make sure no traces have shorted. Check the wiring on the plugs, as well.

Also, try this - what do you get on the screen if you leave the 10-Opto board plugged in, but *disconnect* the Trough Opto boards?

Edit: Odd thing to check, but check the +12V DC coming into the Opto board, as well.

#1489 5 years ago
Quoted from dar8dar:

got my apron back today and reinstalled

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Wow, that's a really nice color! Looks darker than any green on the game - how's it match up?

1 week later
#1509 5 years ago
Quoted from aalucero:

I have a problem with the tv hole. When a ball drops in it it doesn't pop out it knows the ball is there just no activity from the solenoid. Any help would be great.

Do the standard tests first -
Does it fire in solenoid test mode?
If not, then is the coil getting +50v?
if not, check the +50v feed to it (thicker wire).
If so, then something is up with the driver transistor or the driver wire (thinner wire).

#1517 5 years ago

Question for everyone here..

What percentage of Goalie Hits do you have in your game (B.x 21, 'Goalie Hits')? Not having the real game and playing a VPin version, I thought the goalie was much harder to hit, but I'm at 574%.

When I worked on the game, back in the 90's, I never remember it being that high. However, that was over 15 years ago, so I'm just trying to verify my memory.

#1519 5 years ago
Quoted from Matt_Rasmussen:

Goalie? The goalie is easy to hit, but that's not normally the objective.

I know.. I'm also admittedly interested in stats. To compare against the VPin stats.

1 week later
#1525 5 years ago
Quoted from aalucero:

I tested everything you suggested I am NOT getting power to the coil the coil is working fine as I jumpered it to another coil to test. Any suggestions on what I should do from here?

Sorry, I had missed this earlier!

Are you not getting the constant +50v? If you're not, then follow that wire back and find the break, that'll fix your problem.

If you're not getting the driver wire grounding when it should fire, then either:
(1) The driver wire is cut somewhere. (Lose solder, came off another coil's lug, etc), or
(2) The transistors are toast.

You can check by manually firing it - grab a jumper wire, and connect it to the end (metal tab) of the driver xister, and the other end to ground. The coil should fire. If it does, then transistor is bad (or leading up to transistor is bad). If it does not, then driver wire from power board to coil is cut/loose somewhere.

#1529 5 years ago
Quoted from diesel:

Sorry to butt in people,
I'm back to tell you Coyote that i've checked the 10-Opto board on 'The Shadow' which showed no errors. I then checked my CPU board on another WCS 94 and rows 1,2,3 and 5 appeared. Okay found the problem. Replaced U16, U17, U18, U19 and U20 chips on the CPU board again the errors appeared. Now i'm thinking it could be the U23 chip.

That doesn't make any sense, though, since you mentioned that without the opto board plugged in, the switches act normally. In either case, yeah - then if the problem follows the MPU it's obviously on there. I don't have my schematics in front of me, so I can't verify U23 right now, sorry.

#1530 5 years ago
Quoted from Zzap:

That audit option doesn't appear to be in my firmware, or manual. Shame, as I was keen to see what mine was too. I would have guessed around 3 hits for each goal (around 300%)

Oh, it's in the 'hidden' Bookeepings menu.
Go into the Bookeeping Menu, so that "B.1 Main Audits" is flashing
Quickly press all 4 service buttons at the same time. (Enter, Up, Down, Esc)
The screen will show an audit, though it could be on Bx.1 or Bx.2 (because of the multiple button press.)

You're in the hidden audits if you see ".1 EXEC LOCKUPS" or ".2 POWER UPS". I have a list somewhere explaining what all the stanrads ones mean, but the game-specific ones are near the end of the lloop (hit DN from .1 to roll around, like normal.) Goalie Hits is one of the items tracked.

#1538 5 years ago
Quoted from Zzap:

Ha, you do learn something new everyday!
For the record, my 'Goalie Hits' is 161%

Huh! That's lower than I would have thought. Thanks!

#1542 5 years ago
Quoted from leatherface:

Very interesting thanks for this! Since last reset after a full shop out i have 1501 games on mine and Goalie hits reads;
722%, 25,845
I am actually really good at timing a goal when its lit... so this seems like a high number lol
Id say these numbers have been around a lot longer than my games played audit, it seems that way with a few of the other hidden audits. Very cool!

I'm actually not sure if those are reset when you do an Audit clear. I do NOT think so - and some (like Power Ons, and Lockup Codes) aren't EVER reset, unless you pull batteries.

All WPC games have these - though some games have no additional stats (like JY, for example, has no game-specific information).

#1543 5 years ago
Quoted from doublestack:

Wow just got my new armature assembly in the mail. Finally got this wcs playing! This game is so addictive, I couldn't stop playing it tonight. Just a really great pinball game. Also impressed on how solid this game feels. I love the metal inlanes, really keeps the speed up. I assume the other spot for the ball to lock is for multiple players? I painted the coin door, head, and inside of can yesterday. It's looking good.

Correct - or if you have MB Easy Release turned on. (The latter option will let you start the first multiball from the ramps, which will catch the ball as the animation starts, then release both.)

#1549 5 years ago
Quoted from diesel:

Update. U23 chip arrived today. Installed socket and chip and has eliminated rows 1,3 and 5 unfortunately row 2 is still grounded. I'm turning green again! ARGHH!

With the playfield/cabinet connectors disconnected (all green/white connectors at bottom of MPU) does row 2 stay grounded?

#1551 5 years ago
Quoted from diesel:

This is what i did.
First i disconnected the connectors from the MPU board and row 2 did not appear. After reattaching the connectors back onto the MPU board i then disconnected the connectors from the 7 Opto board and again row 2 did not appear (on DMD).
Also every time I switch on the machine the trough and goal popper start to fire.
7 Opto board or MPU?
Just letting you know i've replaced the LM399 chips on the 7 Opto board. Could the chips be faulty?

Possible, and likely - since row 2 is grounding WHEN the 7opto board is plugged in, something on the board is grounding the row. I'm at work and don't have the manual to glance through, but obviously check traces, diodes, etc. If you socketed the LM399 chip, take it out and see if the row is still grounded. (If you DIDN'T socket the LM339, replace it again, this time with a socket. ) If the row is still grounded with the ship pulled, then it's not the chip, it's a trace or diode or shorted resistor.

(Edit: I may be wrong about pulling the chip; again, I'm working from memory here.)

#1553 5 years ago
Quoted from diesel:

You were correct by saying it was either a trace, diode or resistor. I checked all 3 and found the problem was the trace on the 7 Opto board. When i replaced the LM399 chip with a socket the trace had lifted. I re-soldered the socket and now row 2 is no longer grounded.
Thank you for all advice mate unfortunately another problem has appeared on dmd 'Opto trough bad check connectors, wire and 12v'.
What is wrong with this machine!!!!

It's telling you that you REALLY want to sell it.

This one is easy, though - check your trough optos. *Most* Likely the 12v wire got cut, damaged, or broken while you were messing with the 7-opto board. Get a digital camera and see if the LEDs are transmitting, first.

#1555 5 years ago
Quoted from Matt_Rasmussen:

Just use your cell phone camera.

Yeah, technically that's digital.

#1558 5 years ago
Quoted from swedishc:

I just got this game, and it is really fun. Now I just need to remember to use that magna-save. By the time I remember I have that, it is too late.
It seems like it is a good way to get an easy cradle on the left flipper when the ball is hopping over from the right flipper.

When I was tech for a game and played it often (and now, playing on VPM), I never, ever use it. Dunno why.

#1559 5 years ago

Hey owners -
Could someone send me a close-up picture (unlit) of the "Los Angeles" / "World Cup" insert over Detroit?


#1561 5 years ago
Quoted from diesel:

Is this what your after?

P1019068.JPG 214 KB

Perfect, thanks!

Interesting that they seemed to keep the insert from prototype, but covered it with ink. (If you can verify, thanks! It looks like that in the pic..)

1 month later
#1585 5 years ago

White was originally suite auth the game when I picked one up from the distributor..

#1595 5 years ago

My proto playfield has a lot of this. MANY of the inserts have cracks around them, and a few of the larger ones (like the large 'GOAL') are warped.

However, I'm going the 'easy' route, and will be sending it off to get touched up and clearcoated.

#1600 5 years ago
Quoted from louvnj:

Coyote, anyone you have used before or can recommend for clearcoat/repair?

Right now Chris Hutchins is doing my TZ, because my TZ is my baby, and I've worked with Chris before. (CV Neons..). Once I get a WCS next to my TZ, my proto playfield will be sent out to Neo - who I've already spoken to - as it needs some serious sanding and insert touchup only.

IMHO, You'll get best results from Chris, but price will be higher and time will be longer.

#1601 5 years ago
Quoted from Jared:

Just joined the club tonight!!image.jpg (Click image to enlarge)image.jpg (Click image to enlarge)image.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

Nice game! Interesting - those GI lights look a little more pinkish than purple? Or is that just the camera?

1 week later
#1622 5 years ago
Quoted from Blu:

Just joined the club with my first pinball machine. Can barely contain my excitement.

Congrats! when is #2 coming, then?

1 week later
#1647 5 years ago
Quoted from Blu:

Well I could certainly turn off the score replay, but it goes off for earning extra balls as well, and I'm less tempted to eliminate all those as well.

Only way is to unplug it. There's no option to 'disable knocker'.

#1652 5 years ago
Quoted from Evan55:

Mortal Kombat Raiden?
(still dont understand why I cant link to an external image.....)

Yeah, his face comes up during the "Where's Striker" mode from the TV Award.

1 week later
#1681 5 years ago
Quoted from DefaultGen:

There's a coil under the right gate that can pull it up, it should connect to the gate through the small hole next to your red line.

Quoted from DefaultGen:

There's a coil under the right gate that can pull it up, it should connect to the gate through the small hole next to your red line.

Yup. Also, that coil normally is off, unless you're shooting the orbit when you have a city lit. Then it opens up and sends the ball back down to the lower PF..

1 month later
#1755 5 years ago

While the game does not have any upper flippers, the game's OS still expects these switches to be activated (since they're all part of the same board on the cabinet).

Likely the opto for the upper flipper on your flipper board is bad. If you go into Switch Test, you should get two switches recorded for each flipper button.

#1769 5 years ago
Quoted from rollitover:

All my high scores have been reset except the machine kept my Grand Champion score... is this an oddity? Or does the machine periodically reset them?
Is this just a case of old batteries? Curious and any/all input appreciated.

All (Most?) WMS games from the 90's will reset high scores after 'x' number of games. (Off-hand, I do not know the number of games..) I THOUGHT that it reset Grand Champion as well, but perhaps not.

2 weeks later
#1793 5 years ago
Quoted from VegasMike:

Shopping my WCS. Am I missing some switches in the 'travel' lane on the right?
image.jpg image.jpg

Quoted from pinlynx:

Nope, I thought the same thing, but nothing actually goes there.

Switches were there in early sample & proto games. 'Far Right Upper' and 'Far Right Lower'. You can install them, but all they do is score you some small amount of points (like 2750? or something..)

Later playfields had the switch holes removed, obviously.

3 weeks later
#1830 5 years ago

Guys -
The 'back goal' flasher - according to the image that Mike posted, is the 'Goal' flasher - there's one in the 'GOAL' insert in front of the goalie, and one in the back loop to the lanes/pop bumpers.

The first one will have two wires going to it, because they need to be wired to the second flasher ('GOAL' insert) in series.

Mike - If you are meaning the 'Goal Cage Top', then looking UNDER the playfield won't do you any good, as the flasher is on the top plastic over the goal, behind the goalie.


#1832 5 years ago
Quoted from VegasMike:

Thanks, i meant the Goal Cage Top flasher, which is actually a 555 socket on my machine (is this correct?). I am trying to trace where the wires for that go, which led me to the flash lamp behind the goal under the white insert.
I will have to trace the entire path tonite once i get home...

According to the manual(*), it should be a #906 bulb, and have Blk-Brn (driver/gnd) and a Red-Wht (+20v) to its terminals.

- Keep in mind, the WCS manual has a bunch or errors. I don't have a game handy to cross-reference, so take my words with a grain of salt. Example: The 'Goal Cage Top' says there should be two "(2)" - one playfield, one backbox. However, the Goal also has "(2)", but is actually 3 - two on the playfield, one in the backbox.

#1835 5 years ago
Quoted from louvnj:

Hey Coyote, thanks for pointing out the Goal flasher insert in front of the goal, mine was actually out. I'm not sure if it ever worked! I never noticed that bulb behind the goalie motor. I generally use the .pdf manual I downloaded from somewhere, and that one does show 3 bulbs for Goal. I LED'd everything but the flashers about a year ago and thru iterations of ordering and then finding out I missed a bulb, I thought I had noted every bulb. +1 more now

Heh, good to hear! Honestly, that manual is horrible - there's so many obvious printing errors, I figure the tech writer was working his last day before retirement. ('Loop Magnet' and 'Lock Gate', anyone?)

1 week later
#1844 5 years ago
Quoted from bax:

I picked up another World Cup Soccer over the weekend. My plan is to shop one for sale and use the proceeds for the other.
The Wcs I picked up over the weekend has nicer ramps and an overall better playfield except it has some decal where right in front of the left ramp.
Does anyone know of a way to repair this decal damage? Does anyone sell these? Is it even repairable? Or should I go with the other playfield without the damage?

You'll have to make a decal and put it on, the clear it. If you want to go this route, let me know, I have a good scan of that area that you can use for base art for printing.

#1846 5 years ago
Quoted from bax:

Thanks. I appreciate that. I did read VIDs guide. I have done a few minor touch ups in the past but I have yet to do scans or had any dealings w/ clear.
Is this a tough process?

No idea. I send it all off to someone for touchup and clear.

#1848 5 years ago
Quoted from bax:

smart move!!!
That might be worth considering

Yeah, my time's worth more doing other things, and my skills severely lack in that area, so for me it's the best route.

On another note - ever have one of those lunches that never ends?
was really stressed at work, and decided to play a game. It's virtual, but fantastic when you want to blow a few minutes.
This game lasted at least 30 minutes, and that was just the first ball..! Got World Cup twice, and Final Draw 5 times. When this screenshot was taken, it was FINALLY player #2's turn, ball 1.

#1851 4 years ago
Quoted from bax:

That is a killer ball one!!
Not a bad use for a lunch time either.
I like that the virtual pinball is a representation of an actual pin. That beats the yahoo games star sky and hutch I sometimes kill my lunch break with!!

Yeah, at lunch and on the train commute is the only real time I play VP, if at all. It's nice playing games I used to play back in the 90's. The bad thing? Playing one and then going, "I really want this in my collection..!".

1 week later
#1858 4 years ago
Quoted from n1teowl:

I'm having problems with my World Cup Soccer spitting out extra balls during play. While you are playing your ball, you can feel that the machine is trying to shoot random balls out into the shooter lane. Most of the time, it is like the solenoid is only half-firing and the ball doesn't make it all the way into the shooter lane. Some of the time extra balls come out and sit there. The trough optos all seem to be working correctly and pass and edge test. Nothing seems to be getting hung up in the shooter lane either. Any ideas?

Check your ball jam opto. If it's dim or blocked, this will happen.

#1861 4 years ago

The game treats the switch like this -

If it's detected as being blocked (I.e. There's a ball on top of another in the trough exit) the software "gently" activates the eject coil, giving it more power every time. The intent is to get the balls to settle back down into the trough. Eventually though, the kick is strong enough to eject a ball into the shooter lane.

Likely you either have a flaky led or receiver on the trough boards (giving you intermittent switch triggers) or a bad diode on another switch, making the game think the opto's blocked.

#1869 4 years ago
Quoted from Tmezel:

I need help with this IDC that came off and the black wire is disconnected from it.photo-4.JPG

Repunch it (*with a proper tool*), or replace it with a molex connector.

#1871 4 years ago
Quoted from Tmezel:

I need to know which slot to repunch it into and where it plugs in?

That, can't help you with. At least, not until this winter, when I get my game.

2 weeks later
#1909 4 years ago
Quoted from n1teowl:

Well, it's dead Jim. I tried to desolder and resolder and ended up messing up the board. My skills are sadly lacking. It was a last ditch attempt though, so it was worth a try. I'll have to get the new board.

Keep the bad board - use it for practice.

2 weeks later
#1937 4 years ago
Quoted from Lockenick:

My friend is working on restoring a WCS 94, Quick question on the soccer ball spin direction.
In the test menu you can test having the ball spin in one direction, then test it spinning in the other direction. During gameplay does the ball ever change the direction it is spinning? If it only ever spins in one direction, which is the correct direction, CW or CCW?

No, unfortunately. It does technically use the reverse signal, but only to stop the ball faster (instead of letting it spin down).

If my memory's correct, they originally were going to have it spin the other direction, but was worried that it would send balls STDM.

#1939 4 years ago
Quoted from Lockenick:

Thank you sir! I spent a day inter-tubing in Harpers Ferry earlier this summer, beautiful place.

Not a problem! And yes, we have LOTS of tourists here in the spring/summer. Clogs up our roads like h3ll.

#1942 4 years ago
Quoted from ellray:

Actually, it should spin clockwise (helping balls into the goal, especially from the left drain 'corner kick' shooter to create "header" goals) during regular play and counter-clockwise during World Cup Final play. This was mentioned quite a way back in the thread (post #599 or so), but I verified it on my (then) pin.

Quoted from RDReynolds:

This is correct. It will spin both ways. Has anyone figured out how to get the ball to grip the pinballs a bit more? On mine they just kinda slowly roll off no matter how fast the soccer ball is spinning...

Interesting. This must be a change in the newer ROM levels, then. My old game (on L-1, I believe, way back when) only spun one direction. I remember asking the WMS tech about it when they came to take readings on it. Good to know, then!

#1945 4 years ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

Can't resist . . . how do you keep your soccer ball more supple?

A good hands-on massage, using both hands. The more you do it, the better you become with it, until jsut a few fingerstrokes and it'd be as supple as a new plunger rubber.

..Goodnight everybody!

2 weeks later
#1964 4 years ago
Quoted from beardorew:

Yeah, that one is broken. Also the plastic below the left ramp is broken above the rubbers for the tackle target.
My only real complaint with the gameplay is the travel loop shoots directly into the left outlane almost 100% of the time on a clean shot. Makes it incredibly difficult to shoot for the cities unless the kickback is lit. Anyway to adjust the way the ball exits the right side?

Quoted from PinballNewb:

Woah. Mine never comes out that far. I normally hit the bottom half of the left sling. Something is off there.

Honestly, I think it depends a lot on game speed, slope, and coil power.

I've seen games who's kickback lands the ball in the TV Scoop, while others end up hitting the Magna-Save target. Really varies. Though, in theory, if you adjust the screws holding on the metal guide, you can likely aim it down a little more.

#1966 4 years ago
Quoted from PinballNewb:

I think he was referring to the left loop feeding the ball to the kickback (or drain) everytime. FWIW though my kickback hits the soccer ball, and if spinning will score a goal for the bicycle kick score. Wouldn't mind it going to the TV scoop though because I have a hard enough time hitting it consistently!

Oh! I misread his post, sorry!

Though, i guess most of my post still stands, depending on the game and the metal guide. My favorite game was the one that made the TV shot for you, since I have so much trouble with that shot.

1 week later
#1968 4 years ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

Hi. I received my WCS this week. After setting it up and playing a few games, the house got pretty stinky with a burning chemical smell. I think it might be heat sink compound applied by the guy who sold it to me, he probably bullet proofed the power board. The heat sink for BR1 and BR2 is very hot, almost too hot to touch. BR3 and BR4 are also very hot.
Is it expected to see this much heat in this game? The same components remain cool to the touch in my NF.
Also, a gameplay question. If I launch the ball, then score a goal, then sink the ball in the net again before relighting "goal", I get the striker award. Is this expected? Or should I only get this for hitting Striker's hole? Trying to figure out if that's gameplay as usual, or if something is registering that shouldn't.

Heat is expected - more than NF as that's a WPC-95 game, however, it shouldn't burn you. Your board may just be old and need to be gone over.

For the Stryker shot, I believe there's a setting that allows the first Stryker shot to be awarded from the goal - after that, only direct shots to his hole award.

..And apparently I have Airplane! on the mind.. Oy.

2 months later
#2020 4 years ago
Quoted from ramsfan:

Hello, I am the proud new owner of a very nice World Cup, and I have a question about the Magna Save related to any playfield damage due to it getting stuck. Pinball Life sells a fuse kit for Addams Family to prevent this from happening on that machine, and it got me wondering if this is a concern on World Cup or not. Has anyway seen the MagnaSave magnet get stuck and burn the playfield? If so, does anyone do anything to prevent this?

Honestly, the magnet's not used enough for it to be a real problem. However, the magnet on your machine should already have a fuse on it, so this 'kit' is unneeded.

1 week later
#2027 4 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

Newbe question of the day: WTF is a "cliffy"?, as in "No cliffy on this hole. Cliffys on all the other holes." in reference to kick holes.

Cliffy Protector. Used to protect the edge of the wood on a cut (kickout, hole, etc..)

1 week later
#2039 4 years ago

Strange question...
Anyone know who did the voice of the announcer in the game?

(I just played a VP game of WCS, and ended up with a score of 17billion. I was thinking of various ways to change gameplay.. )

#2042 4 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Tim Kitzrow, same guy who voices The Shadow

Really! Wow!

#2055 4 years ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

So am I really incompetent at this game (probably), or is there no video mode?

No video mode. But you COULD be incompetent, too.. I couldn't say on that point.

#2057 4 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

Diverter Problem
My diverter is not working properly. It often does not open all the way (to divert left), and does not return when it is supposed to. I have taken it apart, cleaned, siliconed, re-assembled. I don't see a spring to return. Just a strain relief spring between the pin and the pivot. No recoil spring over the pin, like on other solenoids (manual confirms this)
When I fire the solenoid test, it only opens to divert left, but does not recoil. Again, is the recoil (closing) electronic or gravity/spring?
I need to know more about the solenoid. I have the number, and can get a replacement from marco for about $13.
This is a 3 wire solenoid. But what is the behavior? Does the solenoid push open and then hold, like a flipper, and release and return? Or, does it actuate in the opposite direction to return? I know it's dual coil, but I need more details, to determine if the solenoid is bad.
Any and all help appreciated.

That coil is a Power/Hold - to move it, the power coil (Sol #08) will fire, and then the hold coil (Sol #16) will hold it. I thought it had a spring, but don't see one listed in my manual, meaning that gravity may pull it down.

#2059 4 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

I dont think it's a gravity return, as the solenoid is horizontal. The only spring is one that links the pin to the arm on the pivot. Today, I added thick nylon washers on the pivot rod, on top of the ramp, and inder the steel mounting plate under the table which helps a lot to keep it moving smoothly.
I suspect it's a pull and hold, like you said, but perhaps it reverses polarity to push it back?
Right now, it opens (pulls) but does not hold, nor does it return. 1/2 the solenoid being cooked would explain the problem.
I just ordered a new coil from Marco.

Okay -
First, coils cannot 'push', they can only pull - no matter which way current is applied.
It can be gravity - orientation of the *coil* dosen't matter - it's what's attached to the coil - i.e. If it's not binding at all, the weight of the diverter - the lower part - could be enough to cause it to 'fall' back closed (to the right, ball goes left).

If your coil is 'cooked' - then replace it and the coil sleeve - likely the sleeve is deformed and is not letting the diverter travel effortlessly.

#2073 4 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

There is an empty hole on the ramp plastic above the PPP bumpers on my game....can anyone share what should go there?
Something doesn't look right to me....any help is appreciated.


In prototype games and early samples, there was a switch there - a gate the ball would trigger just before falling into the pop-bumpers. The switch was removed, but likely early ramps still had the holes drilled for it.

#2077 4 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Should there be a post and rubber ring in that hole in the uppermost ramp, to the right of the top ramp hole that drops into the bumpers, like the pic of the container game above shows?


Yes, that should hold a post.

#2083 4 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Can you, or anyone, post a pic of what it should look like?
Any info on parts and where to buy is also appreciated.

There's a few images in the 'Game Archive', here's one:

1 month later
#2165 4 years ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

Okay so my magna flipper button switch isn't registering at all. I've checked it, the contacts are making a good connection but it doesn't activate the magnet, and it doesn't register in switch test at all. Anyone help point me in the right direction? Thanks. -Tommy

Check your coin door interface board, and then follow the wires back up to the backbox.

One thing I like about his game...
Even if you're having a *bad* game - you're STILL having a good game.

#2175 4 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

From this point, I would take a multi meter and test if you have power for the magna save right where the connector comes off the controller board in the back box. I would also try swapping the fuses between the two magnet controllers. As I am sure you know, the Fliptronic II board controls the flippers and the magnets. The fuse for the magna-goalie is "lower left flipper" or "bottom left flipper". The actual flipper are connected to the "upper" or "top". This seems backwards to me, but whatever... Corrosion can keep the fuses from making good contact, so I recommend swapping the fuses for the lock magnet and magna-goalie (the 2 bottom/lower flipper fuses).
Also, in the manual on page 3-6, you can see that the magna-goalie magnet connect to J907, for +50VDC, with the red-violet wire, and J902 yellow-violet. You should be able to test for output power right there.
Again, hope you can solve the problem.

He said the magnet works, the switch don't.

So, remove the switch from the button. Test it. Test the wires running from the coin door board to the switch. Then test the wires runnign from the CPU to the coin door board. (If the coin door board is wired in-line.. it may not be..!) Work your way down - somewhere there's a break in the signal.

#2176 4 years ago
Quoted from BioBa:

How is the magna save meant to work anyway? I am not sure if mine works or not. In solenoid test the magnet works but I am not sure if it does during play.

When you have one in-game, the light insert is lit - hit the button and the magnet activates 'catching' the ball. If the light's not lit, it won't do anything.

As for *usefulness*.. well.. I've never, ever used it.

1 month later
#2255 4 years ago

Those are cracks around the edges of the inserts. It should be all white..

1 week later
#2308 4 years ago
Quoted from sirlonzelot:

Got my cabinet hardware back from powder coating, looks great !


Holy crap, that looks slick!

2 weeks later
#2390 4 years ago
Quoted from sohchx:

Hey guys!! Hopefully I'll be bringing one of these home tomorrow and joining the club. I have a question, what is/are the differences between the standard WCS and the prototype??

Proto, or sample?

Some differences in Proto to Prod include -
4th Striker target between left ramp & TV scoop.
Outer loop right 2 switches.
Switch on right ramp on drop-thru to pop bumpers.
No aux flags on Boston & DC cities (Hurry up & extra ball)
Earth/World covering bottom of PF is less contrast (no green?)
"Ultra Goalie" lightening insert is "Ultra Ball"
Kickback inserts are numbered.
Large "GOAL" insert is green instead of yellow.


#2411 4 years ago

Holy cheeze'n'crackers, look at the black around the bottom of the slingshots. Wow..

4 weeks later
#2513 4 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

i have been accomplishing a few things:

It's crazy - I've had my proto playfield so long now that everyone i see someone's shot of the right ramp, it looks 'wrong' to me..:


#2515 4 years ago
Quoted from Skypilot:

Stop looking at that playfield and start doing something with it.

I... I need a game, first.

#2517 4 years ago
Quoted from Skypilot:

The one on the right goes up for sale when I'm finished. Cal50 gets first dibs on it, but he might not want another project.

Hehe. I plan on getting one that is a project - as long as ramps and mechanics are okay, the PF can be trashed. I'll be putting in my prototype playfield ('Ultra-Ball'!), so the condition of the PF won't matter. But I'm aiming for as cheap as I can go - no LEDs, no mods, no color DMD, yadda yadda. Since my money will be going into getting the proto PF dimpled, cleared and converted over into a workign game.

#2520 4 years ago

That's an operator/arcade inventory number tag.

In other words, it wasn't shipped form the factory like that, but at some point an owner had one made and screwed it in.

#2522 4 years ago
Quoted from JayTeeF:

Thanks Coyote I had a feeling that's what it was. Will probably take it off if it holds no significance.

Depends... I mean, if you think it's interesting, keep it. Especailly if you cna find another game form the same owner/arcade with another one of those metal tags.

#2539 4 years ago

Nice! I particularly like the yellow wire habitail, but I'm not 100% on the yellow coin toss..

#2552 4 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

Sorry... I mean to say "habitrail" (as it is called here) I typically call it the rail, but then that gets confused with the side rails, right?
How about I call it "the wire track that the ball gets shot into from striker's hideout and drops it in the right flipper land", or the "WTTTBGSIFSHADIITRFL" for short...
Does that part have an "offical" name???

Wire Ramp. It's a lot easier to type, and in this game, there's only one.

#2579 4 years ago
Quoted from mab487:

Just joined the club with this project WCS 94. Lot's of work to do on this one.

Nice! You need a new battery board. *ahem* I have a few new ones.

Interesting the dirt pattern around the ball, as well. It's been spinning a LOT in its life.

#2594 4 years ago

Poll question for everyone -

Does your game have the "1", "2", "3" text on the kickback kicker? *IF SO*, does your game then have the switch cutouts (switches there or now - I'm merely referring to the cutouts/art in the playfield) for the switches in the travel loop over on the right-hand side?

#2618 4 years ago

Nice looking PF there!

#2621 4 years ago

It's what they decided to go with. Honestly, someone made the decision to try it, and they did.

1 week later
#2631 4 years ago
Quoted from mab487:

Should the extra ball button have a diode on it? If so, where? I can't seem to find it in the manual.

It's on the coin door interface board. Nothing is needed on the switch itself.

#2633 4 years ago
Quoted from mab487:

Thanks. Reason I asked is I found a diode in the cabinet close to that area and for some reason my Extra Ball Button acts as my Start Button and my Start Button works as my Extra Ball Button. Was hoping that was the solution. This happens in test mode and to start a game. Test mode also says my tilt bob is always closed. If you start a game, the ball kicks into the shooter lane, the goalie starts to move, and the game tilts immediately.
I recently repined the connector at J205 so I rechecked the wires and they look good.

Check schematics and other pins on the CDI - it sounds like a plug is off by one. Is your "Always Closed" always closed?

#2636 4 years ago
Quoted from mab487:

Actually, it's open.
Edit: And it looks like all the wires on the CDI are correct.

Okay - something is off by a pin.

The 'Always Closed' should be, well.. always closed, not the tilt. Since - going by memory here, I could be wrong - the tilt & other buttons connect in different plugs, the only one that houses ALL of them would be the plug heading back to the MPU. Double-check that one..

1 week later
#2650 4 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

Joining the club next weekend when I make a trade for a WCS that's fresh off route. My wife loves the game and she's looking forward to tearing it down with me and getting it all shined up.

What are you trading for it? (And what are you going to do about the PF? )

#2652 4 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

Not gonna do a darn thing about the flipper wear on the PF. My $1k No Fear has a wear spot from the right flipper and I don't care at all. Trading my Viper Night Drivin' for it, so it works out even trading a fully shopped, working, modded pin for an off route players condition pin that we really enjoy playing. My wife appreciates a pin a LOT more when she's invested time cleaning it up with me, plus WCS has been on her "want" list for a while.

May have to come over and play it. It's on my short-list to own..

#2655 4 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

U can come by and play my super sweet one in in the middle of redoing and probably selling in york unless i absolutely love it . I have a bunch new amazing pins since u been by so i dont think wcs has a chance of staying in my collection.

Nope, nope - looking for one with a bad playfield, unrestored. Looking to install my Proto NOS playfield into the game.

It's been over a year since I've been up to your place - I think the TZ's likely the only one that's still there.

1 week later
#2670 3 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

There is supposed to be a gate at the exit of the kickback save, right?

No - it's open.

#2672 3 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

Really? I had a few balls kick back down there and just figured they shouldn't be able to. Well good, one less part to order!

Yup! There's a setting in the game that will let it use a kickback (permanently) or kickback and not use the stored kickback.

#2688 3 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

Here's another question, this time for ROM burners. I need to update my ROM from L-1 to L-2. Any idea if the size of L-2 ROM will fit on the same chip? When I upgraded my ROM for Terminator 2, the newer ROM needed a larger chip, so just wanted to see if anyone knew from their experience.

They're the same size, you're good to go. (You can also check by looking at the file size of the ROM. I.e. 512k is a 4Mb ROM, etc.

#2705 3 years ago

It's supposed to be red, AFAIK..

#2712 3 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

Question. Is it a normal shooter rod with rubber on the tip in WCS? I don't have rubber on my shooter and the end of the rod is totally flat.

Yeah, no difference. Get a rubber on there before you nick up the balls something bed.

#2744 3 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

How does one do that? Any links to instructions?

Turn phone on. Run camera app. Aim camera at emitters (white mounting bodies). If the LESs look white like they're on, or glowing (depending on phone camera), it's probably good.

#2772 3 years ago

Digikey - search "1N4001" or "1N4004".

#2775 3 years ago
Quoted from pinlink:

Thanks! So it doesn't matter which one I order?

No. A 4004 can support higher amperage than a 4001. However, the switch matrix uses extremely little amperage, so either one will work fine.

#2779 3 years ago
Quoted from pinlink:

Bumping this question. Any ideas? Hoping I don't have to replace that entire front ramp entrances for both ramps. looks hard to find and over $100 a piece. Just for two lights...yikes

Light boards rarely go bad. The diode on them may have gone, but even that's unlikely. Do they work in test mode?

#2782 3 years ago

Bypass the diode - connect a jumper from one lead of the diode to the other. If you get any bright light, then the diode is bad. If you get dim, or glowing light, then the diode isn't the issue.

#2787 3 years ago
Quoted from pinlink:

But at least that way you would have to light the lock shot twice, correct? Currently I only have to light the lock once, shoot either ramp, then shoot the scoop to start the m-ball. Just seems super easy, but maybe you are right. I'll keep looking in the adjustments menu. Thanks, Steve!

No. Lock stays lit after the first ball is locked.

#2802 3 years ago
Quoted from flashinstinct:

I already tried using my HV pinball life board with no sucess.

Yeah, I'm willing to put money down it's not on the HV section of the board - otherwise, you wouldn't be getting ANYTHING on the panel.

1 week later
#2826 3 years ago
Quoted from Sheprd:

Ah. I thought he built the larger oven quite a while ago... didn't he post pictures of it? Still curious that there is not more interest from this crowd...

Some of us have interest, but read that he doesn't have his larger machine ready yet, so have stayed quiet.

#2828 3 years ago

As per him, about another large ramp (TZ)..:

Quoted from Freeplay40:

I think the big one will have to wait for the new bigger machine.

When he gets to it, he'll get to it.

#2832 3 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

OK, so the flashers are 12V instead of 6.3V?
Are you going to use the white 6V led strips off the GI to light it from the machine, and then do green flashers?
What flashers did you order? Got a link?
I will likely do the same thing, since it was my idea. (the soccer topper, not the flower backbox border)

Flashers are driven with 20v actually, but the LEDs are resistor'd for 12v. (Same as 906/89 bulbs..!) So LEDs/bulbs are expecting 12v, but get shot with 20v. Hence, the super brightness.

#2848 3 years ago
Quoted from pinlink:

Bumping this question. Still puzzled as to why my entire row 8 is out. Should there be continuity from J-134/135 to the lamps in row 8?

Yes. Otherwise, how would Row 8 work?

Likely, the wire came unsoldered/broke at one of the first lamp sockets. (Likely the high star roll-over.)

#2850 3 years ago
Quoted from pinlink:

Thanks, Coyote. But this is row 8 (not column 8). Which is why I am confused. The first lamps in the row are on the lamp board under the playfield (Detroit, left ticket half). Seems like those wires are connected well to the lamp board itself. I assume that the issue would not be on the individual socket for these lamps? There is continuity between the lamp board and the next lamps in that row. But because all of the lamps are out in the row, that points to the issue being with the first lamps in the row, correct?

D'oh, sorry.. Looking at Row 8, then yes - likely the first lamp that the wire gets to is Tackle. (I'm guessing here, based on usual wiring of WMS games..)

If ALL row 8 is out - INCLUDING the start button - then you have a friend transistor on the power board, as the cabinet lights are from a different plug than playfield, and a broken wire on playfield won't affect cabinet plug.

#2854 3 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

Don't get carried away, and thinking it's more serious than it is. Use a multi meter, and remove the connector from the board. Check for 6.3V on the 2 pins that those colored wires go to, and see if you have power at the board. Then, if there is, work out from there, and track until you find where your loss is. If no power, then check the block of 5 fuses right above where the connector is. They should all be 250V 3amp slow blow.
I had a string of lights out on mine, and it turned out to be a loose connection on the molex connector at the board. Check you connectors for discoloration and burn marks... Could be that your connector is shot. Do you have LEDs in it? If not, then it's still running pretty high power. LEDs reduce the draw, and keep further head damage from occurring.

If both start button AND playfield lights are affected, it's upstream of the connector - since those use two *different* connectors. (Yeah, it's possbile BOTH connectors need work, but unlikely. ) Controlled lamp connectors rarely burn - not enough constant amperage to brown the molex/IDC terminals, unfortunately.

#2860 3 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

Yes, good catch... I know the start button is on the matrix, but forgot it's on a different connector. You are also correct that controlled light connectors are unlikely to burn, like GI light connectors, but it has been known to happen.
So, assume the problem is on the board... How do you troubleshoot that? Or, do you just buy a new board?

True! Especially with a shorted row or column and a fuse the wrong size! (Seen it before..!)

If yoh HAVE another WPC game, swap boards. That's the easiest way.

If not, get a multimeter, and find one of the lights on the playfield. Measure voltage from each lead to ground. (Yellow wire and red wire.) The row wire should NOT give you a good voltage. The column wire SHOULD. Then, do the same test at the row pin on the board's header. Again, you should not get voltage.

Assuming above is correct, there are a couple more things you can try, but the best step wouldbe to get a logic probe.

3 weeks later
#2908 3 years ago

Too steep will cause that to happen as well.

It's easy to check your incline.

Have a smart phone? Android OR Apple?
Go to the store, get an inclinometer app, and place the phone on the playfield, see what it reads. 6.5 is what games are designed for, I run between 6.5 and 7.0 depending on the game.

#2910 3 years ago
Quoted from mattmarr:

I figured you are just getting more rebound/bounce off the end of the top ramp when you've got a clean (or steep) game with the ball flying around.

I believe that's what is happening, actually. That top u-turn is so sharp, that if the ball isn't against the right side of the ramp going up, it will hit the u-turn, lose momentum, and bounce back, hitting the closer wall/point of the curve, and then roll back down. A steeper angle to the playfield would cause the ball to hit and lose momentum more, giving it a better chance to roll back down.

Having said that - this is one of the FEW games I love faster than snotI would probably be that one owner that would live with the bounce-backs to enjoy the fast game.

1 month later
#2923 3 years ago
Quoted from mima:

Seems like I have a few wrongs here
Still, Could the ball get in to that outlane between the spinning football and the lower bumper? If so, how does it get out since the lower gate is blocked?

I believe the bottom gate is free in both directions.

#2926 3 years ago
Quoted from mima:

Actually it's a one way gate, however looking closely at mattmarrs photo I realized that my gate was in fact flipped around. But it still would not open, so I adjusted the ball stop at the kick-out by turning it slightly to the left. Now the gate opens and no risc of a ball trap.

Huh! That's actually good to know - I always thought it was two-way..!

1 week later
#2940 3 years ago

Looks like it's a 12v feed. Where under the playfield (in what area) is it located?
I ask because the proto games had an eddy sensor next to the soccer ball, and it would have needed power.

2 weeks later
#2988 3 years ago

I'm confused on your shooter. You don't have an E-ring, and the end with the rubber is mushroomed out?

#2993 3 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

Yup, that's the old shooter rod - photos seem to got a little out of order. That's how the shooter rod was when you were over and setting a new GC score. No more metal on metal sound when launching balls now.

Ah, awesome!

#2994 3 years ago

Hey guys -
Does anyone have one of the prototype ramp plastics I could borrow to scan? Or, anyone have a high-res scan of said plastic?


#3011 3 years ago
Quoted from Archon9000:

Just curious... what's different on these prototype plastics?

The 'Jackpot' top light is larger - it's the size of an #89 or #906 flasher, but is controlled (i..e not a flasher. )

Quoted from chuckwurt:

Inside on the left of the doorway. It's white.

Some of those (I don't remember when WMS started this..) you can pull out a 'click' and it will activate. Others, the game came with a yellow latch you can slide down over the switch to hold it activated while the door was open.

1 week later
#3026 3 years ago

Just loose connectector/LEDs. Adjust the leads on the LED..

#3028 3 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

And Coyote once again came over and left with the Grand Champion high score on World Cup! I had just beat his score a week prior and he beat it by 350 million.

Thanks for having me over. Was a nice surprise! (I mean, the invite, not the GC.. )

#3035 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I got good results from using a strip in the back to light up the decals backthere and brighten up the back of the game. Also got good results from the PBL brite mods pop bumper lights. Really brightens up the pops area.

I like these bumper caps in this game. While I'd never to that to my TZ, when I get this game these will go in. (However, I'm sorry, but that deep purple behind those inserts.. no thank you.. )

1 week later
#3043 3 years ago

Flipper coils are stuck on -
Check your ribbon cable connections,
Check TIP transistors on the fliptronics board,
and check any wiring, making sure the coil's drive wire isn't gounded.

4 weeks later
#3089 3 years ago

Yes, the Ultra modes are running until you score a certain amount of points for each one.
They are active during multiball, and no, they can not START during multiball.

1 week later
#3112 3 years ago
Quoted from aerobert:

I think Ministry of Pinball had a set in stock. (Netherlands)

They're out, now.

Marco has them in stock, but at a 96% mark up.

1 week later
#3144 3 years ago
Quoted from PinballTilt:

I joined the club about two weeks back. Defeated Germany and took some victory laps last weekend and ended up with 3.6 billion.
I've been wondering why there is space and switches for two balls in the ball lock. I've only ever been able to lock one ball on the trophy.

Second player locks a ball after you locked one, or,
There's a setting for an easy first multiball start that will start qualifiying multiball with a second chot up a ramp, effectively 'locking' two balls there.

1 month later
#3215 3 years ago
Quoted from boiydiego:

can somebody help me with a 600 dpi scan of the yellow marked area on his wcs94 pinball , why i need it is easy to see , so i can finish of and play this nice table .
thx in advance guys

If hammerhead can't help, let me know!

1 week later
#3228 3 years ago
Quoted from enkiktd:

My (new to me) WCS is great but I'm encountering a issue where the game powers down mid-game, most often during multi-ball. It shuts itself completely off and then turns back on again. It will know the score I ended with at the point that it shuts off when it comes back on. This seems to occur in 1 out of every 40 or so games.
Any ideas on what I should look into for this issue?

That's not "turning off and turning on", that's "resetting". Google WPC Reset and you'll find countless articles and tech blogs on how to address it.

#3232 3 years ago

Your HV interlock switch may have pulled a wire.

If not, check manual, and see the plugs where the common voltage is coming from. The manual is your friend.

3 weeks later
#3265 3 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

I have a similar, just slightly smaller, wear spot like yours. I'm working on a decal to cover it and will let you know how it goes.

Aw, crap, I knew I forgot something. Check email tonight!

1 month later
#3323 3 years ago

Full butt? Or the 'play in control' area you have pictured?
In either case, send me a PM. I can hook you up.

3 weeks later
#3340 3 years ago

Not just MPU, but the opto board as well.

#3345 3 years ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Thanks pinballdork!
I replaced the ball and the motor about 10 years back, and it still looks and works great... but get this... I had wired it up backwards and it has been spinning the wrong way all this time!!
Based on what I've seen so far, a rerubber with Cliffy posts and LED conversion is happening. It already has a Pinball Pro in it IIRC and yeah, great sound.

I recently played a game with that same issue.

Honestly, it made the game a WHOLE lot harder, with it sending balls QUICKLY down towards the flippers of over the lower playfield; instead of out to the right loop.

When I add this game to my collection, I may actually do that on purpose.

2 months later
#3420 2 years ago

Are the plastic sets still available? Thought CPR sold out of them..

#3438 2 years ago

Just, please, don't put frosted LEDs under patterned inserts. Those starburst, fresnel patterns were meant to catch a point of light (the filiment) and shine.

3 weeks later
#3511 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Does anyone have a pic of what the official topper looks like for this game?

AFAIK, if by 'official' you mean 'from factory' - there wasn't.
If you mean something else by 'official', I don't know.

#3515 2 years ago

Interesting - I never knew that existed. Never have seen it on a game. Good find! Anyone have one on theirs?

#3518 2 years ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Ha ha! Good looking out dude.
Nice to know the old noodle isn't mush yet.
Here's a pic from earlier in this thread:

...and it looks like PPS has it in stock.

Cool. I like it.

1 week later
#3553 2 years ago

For the record, the copy of the manual I have is *littered* with errors, FWIW.

1 week later
#3559 2 years ago
Quoted from Wiggy:

Got a few questions. Thanks in advance for any insight.
-- How do i remove the %&(¤)(/ apron? I removed two screws infront of it and I cant find anything else that is keeping it down, but I cant move it all. What am i missing?
-- I ran all the self tests. Everything seems fine, but during solonoid test I couldnt hear the machine doing anything when it came to 16. Is it suppose to happen something?
-- I found these plastic thingys on a few spots. Where can I buy these? They feel very hard, is it actually dried up rubber or is it something else? Need to replace a few since some of them are broken, but cant find them anywhere. Picture is from the plastic that is left from the left flipper and right from the right flipper.

1. After removing the screws, push (carefully, so you don't scratch the playfield!) the apron forward - UP the playfield, to unlatch the two hooks on the edge of the outlane.
2. The 'HOLD' coil won't physically move nor make a sound, since it's a hold coil. If you manually push the diverter open, the hold coil will then hold it there for it's pulse.
3. Those are just hard plastic spacers, to keep the plastic mounted up. Not sure size or where you can get them, but for the record, yeah, they're supposed to be hard.

#3563 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinballdad1961:

Joined the club a week ago and LOVE the game!
The only issue with the game is the sound won’t go below “8”. Not a huge problem, but keeps me from playing late night games when everyone’s sleeping —- any suggestions for a fix?

In Adjustments, "Min Vol Override". Set it to 'Yes'.

3 weeks later
#3664 2 years ago
Quoted from westofrome:

I need to resolder these wires onto the lamp on the plastic right above the goal. How to tell which tab gets red and which green? Thanks!

For that, it doesn't matter. Green to one, red to the other.

#3677 2 years ago
Quoted from Bugsy:

With batteries, you still have to change them from time to time and you lose all your settings and scores. You never have to worry about that again with NVRAMs.

Er, no. Replace the batteries with the game on.

#3679 2 years ago
Quoted from Bugsy:

Well hell, I stand corrected. To be honest, it's just a habit of mine to always turn the game off when working on it so I've always done it that way. You learn something new everyday.

Understandable, and a good thing to do. (Hell, I've broke things worse because I 'thought I could do it with the game powered on'.. Did you know that the cheaper soldering irons have grounded tips? Yeah.. don't try soldering the +50V lug on a coil.)

But the batteries are fine to do, and it saves time by not having you need to set the time/date again.

#3681 2 years ago

That's one heck of a hack.
That's *half* a Molex connector, with what looks like the wires from the missing part of the connector just pushed into the terminals. I'd just replace both connectors, and be done with it.

#3683 2 years ago
Quoted from Wiggy:

Oh, yeah it sure didnt look right. Couldnt figure out how to pull them apart, lol.
Beside the j120 and j121 I changed a few days back I have never replaced a molex connector, or any other connector for that matter, ever.
So help me out here, what kind of molex connector do I need to fix this?
Can I use the trifurcons I used for j120/j121 for this connector aswell, or do I need something diffrent?

I'm sure some pin shops have them, I get all mine from Digikey though (since they're usually cheaper when buying larger amounts, and I get a bunch of other stuff when placing orders..):

Can't use the Trifuricon pins - these are 'inline' connectors, not headers. Since you only need one pair, there's likely a pin shop that will do you better.

#3690 2 years ago

What wires (colors) go into it?

#3692 2 years ago

Happy new years, guys.

Was wondering - if any of you have to lift your playfield, can you grab a quick picture of the 7-opto board and it's surroundings?


#3694 2 years ago

Thanks boss!

1 week later
#3749 2 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

i know they're out of stock, but look for something like this:

Quoted from chuckwurt:

Mezel sells something like this.

Er - absolutely and completely unneeded.
WPC-S MPUs already HAVE a 'remote mounted' board. As pictured above in wiggy 's post. He just moved it. It's supposed to be mounted on standoffs on the MPU board. He moved his over to the side of the backbox.

#3751 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Yep. Awesome that this game is that easy to solve the issue. Just saying for other games where you can find the solderless solution.

Oh! Then yes, definitely. Sorry, misunderstood there..!

1 week later
#3794 2 years ago
Quoted from mima:

Anyone interested in these battery adaptors for a single 1/2 AA lithium battery. Get rid of the Alcaline leakable batteries and just plug this adapter into your 3AA battery holder with a 1/2 AA lithium battery instead.
$10 a piece
$12 shipping (up to 5 adapter sets).

Okay, please don't cross-post. Put an ad in the market.

#3802 2 years ago

Contact Cliffy, maybe?

1 week later
#3833 2 years ago

That's a PCB standoff, looks like.

1 month later
#3989 2 years ago

Unless you used a very accurate measuring tool, you won't be able to tell the difference between an A-12111 and A-12390 coil stops. The one on the right has a A-12111. One on the left has a A-12390.

#3991 2 years ago
Quoted from Wiggy:

The manual says A-12390 coil stop on both sides.
So you mean the plunger to the right (in the pic) is the wrong one for this game?

(Personally, though, I prefer the longer-throw ones. To each their own. )

#3994 2 years ago
Quoted from rollitover:

Flippers on this game are slightly off-set and should not be perfectly even.
Check out the wire guides behind the flippers.

Huh! I never noticed that honestly. I still stink they don't match, though, even with the offset. But the only way to really tell for sure would be to just put two new ones in, and be happy with it.

2 weeks later
#4026 2 years ago

The red wire to each flasher, when checked with a DMM, should give you ~20vdc reading. Check with the coin door closed (interlock) and see if you're getting flasher lamp power.

1 month later
#4132 2 years ago
Quoted from zuhi:

Just a quick question. My WCS94! got Ball divider error while i enter to test, but in solenoid test it works fine. Is there any switch or opto to check the divider position? Or where the program "feels" its not working well.
So what i had to look for if it visually works.
Thanks for any tip or reply.

Check that all ramp switches work. The machine can't watch the physical operation of the diverter, so it watches the switches that should be activated depending on the location of the diverter.

1 week later
#4140 2 years ago

And in case it's difficult to see in that pic, it's meant to hold up the wireform ramp from the Goal kickout.

3 weeks later
#4189 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Not if it goes down there from the top outlane switch. The one under the lock. That’s the one I thought we were talking about.

I believe this is a setting in adjustments, off-hand..

2 months later
#4328 1 year ago
Quoted from maffewl:

Some have a hex-key, some have a nut depending on manufacturer. See images attached. I've also attached an image from another thread that shows the shaft in place.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Holy carp.
WCS has a NORMALLY OPEN End-Of-Stroke switch.

#4333 1 year ago
Quoted from maffewl:

I figured the difference in my text/arrows would make sense, but just to be clear... don't pay attention to anything in the second image other that the text that states "Nut to loosen/tighten" and "Flipper shaft". None of the other text/arrows are pertinent to this conversation.

Whew, yes, okay.

3 weeks later
#4480 1 year ago
Quoted from Grandnational007:

haha, now just be sure to set the game to US pricing and use US coin mechs...even though it's on freeplay and probably will be forever...
I did the exact same thing on a Guns N' Roses that was reimported, took me forever to figure it out with all the different styles of coin mechs/world pricing schemas. Even though it will probably never be "on route" again, I JUST HAD TO KNOW it was right, and that all the lighting was correct and working, lol
Glad you got everything figured out. And trust me, you'll have another machine in shortime now that you have all the bugs on this one worked out. I ALMOST enjoy troubleshooting/working on machines more at this point than playing them, and I'm a pretty serious competitive player, haha. It's like a logic problem that you can play after...

Amateurs! I still pay for my games!

1 week later
#4496 1 year ago

Pop quiz!
How many of you have numbers printed on your three kickback inserts?

#4503 1 year ago

Nope - that was old WMS stock of a prototype playfieild. I bought it, which is why it's out of stock. Heh. (Study it, you'll see a LOT of changes.. And if you're curious about any, let me know. I can get a better pic.)

I know some sample games still had the numbers, and was wondering how many were out there.

#4505 1 year ago
Quoted from JoshinDC:

If I remember correctly, you can go into adjustments and change the kickback settings so that you can save 3 kickbacks, and each of those lights signifies one kickback left. I assume it was originally going to be a default setting, thus the old artwork?

That's my guess!
Interestingly, though, in at least the latest revision of WCS, the numbers are backwards. When you have 'one' kickback left, only the number "3" is lit. Have 2 kickbacks? "3" and "2" are lit. Heh.

When I was at the arcade where my sample TZ was, we later got a sample WCS. And I could swear that the inserts had numbers - but didin't notice any other differences. (Like the 4th Striker target, "Ultra-Ball" lightning insert, etc.)

#4508 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Generally speaking, what’s the difference between a prototype and a sample?

The things I know off-hand include:
Vastly different playfield colors - Earth has different colors. Large 'GOAL' insert is Green. Tackle was three standup targets. A 4th 'STRIKER' target between TV and right ramp entrance. LOCK inserts had a 'hole' in the ball. No 'Ultra-Goalie', instead it was 'Ultra-Ball'. Related, there is a routed mount for a prox sensor on the underside of the playfield beat the soccer ball. No 'award' red flags on City inserts. Different color inlane inserts. Two extra switches were in the Travel loop on the right side of the PF (one above where the pop-bumpers enter, one under). The numbers on the Kickback inserts.

There was a gate switch on the upper ramp up above the pop-bumpers - when activated it gave you an award for a ramp shot. (Switch was removed, code was added to ROM to award a ramp if ramp entry switch is activated, then a pop bumper is activated.) The Ramp signs had a larger cutout for the 'Light Jackpot' bulbs. (Come of this you can see in the game's gallery here on Pinside. Someone posted pics from a prototype game.)

The software - prod versions - have code to handle some things: (1) The 4th Striker target. If the game sees it active, it will award a Striker letter. (2) The two right Travel loop switches will award a small amount of points, nothing else. (3) The upper ramp exist switch will award a 'complete' ramp shot, instead of awarding it when the ball falls and hits a pop bumper.

Quoted from gunstarhero:

Ah, super interesting score!

My goal is to get the playfield cleared, find a WCS that's in 'ok' condition, and put the proto playfield in. (To make a 'proto-prototype' game. So to speak.)

#4510 1 year ago

For those curious, since I got a couple PMs about it..

Ultra Ball insert. Also note the color of the land on the earth behind the ref girl.
0mbwn1l (resized).jpg

Notice the colors used on the world, and the missing flags from the cities.
GbFMQHA (resized).jpg

Notice the 4th Striker target. And the design on the 'BUILD' insert. (Notice the 'clear' panel in the soccerball.)
LMyGuxw (resized).jpg

The green 'GOAL' insert, and at the bottom, the seperate tackle standups. Also note the different 'Extra Ball' insert.
rhtPRgL (resized).jpg

3 months later
#4830 1 year ago

That looks like a ColorDMD issue, not necessarily a game issue. Try a real DMD in there, and see if the issue goes away.