(Topic ID: 50131)

World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.

By DEWSHO

10 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 8,491 posts
  • 740 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 hours ago by Phoerber
  • Topic is favorited by 272 Pinsiders

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#1586 9 years ago

Hey fellow wcs owners. I have had my WCS for quite a while and love the game.
Out of interest what firmware are people running these days?

A while ago I came across v3.01 and thought it was just a rehashed version but
It actually uses a different pic (g10). I didn't really notice any difference but
Apparently it included some extra previously unused audio call outs in the rom space.

Was just curious.

2 years later
#3578 6 years ago

I always had fond memories of playing this game, sold a mint one due to circumstance and quickly regretted it. I recently bought a project one and it has a very rough playfield. Anyone have a reasonable playfield they have laying around they might sell?

Mine has wear around both flippers ( pretty bad ) and numerous inserts are decapped and quite rough.

5 months later
#4134 5 years ago

Hi,

I have a WCS94 that I got in pretty rough condition and was lucky enough to get a really nice playfield without wear to swap in.
The soccer ball gearbox was stripped, actually the motor pinion gear was stripped. Got a new pinion and pressed it onto the shaft, cleaned then re-greased the gearbox and it runs very nicely.
Tech info for those needing help.
My motor/gearbox assembly without the ball and ball carrier draws around 300mA at 12V.
the output shaft of the gearbox measures 540RPM, thats 9revs/second.... insane speed, I measured it 3 times to make sure.
If you cannot get a proper motor gearbox to replace your damaged one then this might help securing a 3rd party one.

cheers.

#4137 5 years ago
Quoted from KeeperUSA:

Here is a strange one. Just bought a WCS, and it is working perfectly apart from the trough 3 opto which is saying it is open even with no ball in the trough. What this means is the game kicks out two balls at the start of the final draw multiball. After checking the led transmitter for trough 3 under a camera, it looks like it isn’t emitting any color. I have ordered a replacement board, but my trough boards look strange and I don’t appear to have the 7 opto Board in the top left hand corner on the playfield. I will post some pictures - has my trough opto wiring been modified? How can it function without the original 7 opto Board? Don’t exactly know where the trough opto board wiring is going.

you have the trough receiver board with the lm339's on board which is essentially a 7-opto board and trough receiver in one. Therefore the 7-opto board is not required.

8 months later
#4871 5 years ago
Quoted from maffewl:

Regarding the skill shot, I have similar issues with the closest slot. I've debated using "skinnier" post sleeves. Or, a fat, normal, skinny setup where the closest is the easiest to hit. Has anyone tested this? I currently have another machine that I am restoring, so it will be a while before I get around to shopping the WCS, but that was something I was going to look into.

it is actually a "skill shot" or a shot that requires skill, embrace the fact this awesome game has an actual skill shot, many don't. Unless you call changing lanes until the lit one has the ball roll through it skillful.

2 months later
#5073 4 years ago
Quoted from LoserKid_Pinball:

Hey everybody! I'm having some troubles with my WCS94. When I shoot the ball into the TV award scoop, the F104 fuse blows. I replaced the coil and diode just because the old one looked terrible.
Even after I replaced the coil, the fuse still blows. I'm thinking I need to replace the transistor along with a new diode on the coil.
Am I heading in the wrong direction? If it is a transistor, which transistor would it be?
Also unrelated problem. DMD goes "fuzzy" some times. I think it's just a loose connection. Which plug would I need to check?

make sure you didn't put the wires the wrong way around on the solenoid, of coarse the solenoid can be either way but the diode you mentioned CAN NOT BE.

hope this helps.

5 months later
#5335 4 years ago

the hack on the DMD controller might be if the "repairer" had issues locating the correct zener diode. you can make the right voltage value with a series connection of multiple zeners. Should be an easy replacement, the main concern is to make sure the voltages are correct at the DMD as some "repairs" increased the DMD voltage or the differential voltage to make outgassed DMD's look brighter.

The cabinet cracks aren't obvious in the images you supplied, but remember these are not new in box so they will exhibit various issues that depending on your skill set can be repaired.

Ball motor might be an issue with the pinion gear (most likely) but can be also a failed motor, driver, motor interface board or just a loose/broken wire. Impossible to assess from 20000k's away. lol.

If the playfield is good with limited wear around saucers, goalie and TV award then most other things can be repaired. It all depends on price and your skill set.

9 months later
#5934 3 years ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

I'm not sure this was 'the' problem as I pulled / reseated a bunch of connectors while I was debugging this thing, but sliding this one plug over fixed my issues. Up and working again.
Now I need to put a new plug on one of my flashers, fix the Pinball Pro speaker wiring for the volume control in the head (center lug wires on the potentiometer pulled loose so I'm just rolling with the cab woofer right now)
I finally removed this old nasty loom that had been completely replaced but for some reason not removed from the machine. It was making a real mess in the head. I still need to zip tie a few bundles together and then reinstall the plastic tubing, but it's looking a bit better organized than before at least.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image]

Not sure I am a fan of the extensions on J122 & J124.
The extra ribbon cable to the display has not been fitted (I am guessing it was removed during fault finding).
J209 looks wrong, the 9-pin plug should align with the 9-pin socket, the colours on the switch matrix row plug J209 look right but it should align pin1-1 not being offset like that.

What does the switch matrix look like when in switch test mode?
And do the switches when operated correlate to the matrix description.
Are all the leds on the power driver board on, have you measured the voltages.

If you want to post over the extra (hacked) secondary cable, I will pay postage

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