Are you sure you're using the proper type fuse? I.e. Slow blow vs Fast blow

If you've got the proper type and rating on the fuse then you might need to replace the coil.

Oh, I missed you mentioning you replaced the coil too.. So yea, that's weird. I'll have to go take a look at what else is in the circuit on mine. When you replaced the part, did you just use what was under the PF or did you look up the part# and order that? (Just in case someone threw in the wrong part in the past). I'm probably asking already answered questions...

Is it always weaker or only after playing a few games? Start by validating your power supply voltages... FYI -Having a feeling it's weaker is awfully vague though so it's going to be easy to end up on a wild goose chase.

Check to make sure that the coil plunger tip (that contacts the ball) isn't mashed or deformed. Look the part up on Marco's site to compare. Also make sure all the screws securing the coil are tight and the coil isn't loose in the mount.

If it's all tight and the tip isn't mashed I'd replace the coil sleeve. If none of that works it might be the coil.

LOL, one of the few times I've heard of someone under-rating when replacing a fuse... Most times its a nail or tinfoil. Glad you got it sorted!

Yea, and it's all knackered up too. Should look like this:

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I've not had my WCS apart in years but the gear on that shaft looks stripped/shot. I don't think adding more washers is going to help. Yep.. see this post.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/world-cup-soccer-94-ball-squealwhine-noise#post-5916270

I'd bet the gearbox is toast too if the drive gear looks like that. Though sometimes they make the drive gear out of a softer metal so that it wears rather than the box. I believe you can access the gears if you remove the mounting plate and access from the "top" side.

Nice work! Who did you purchase you cabinet decals from?

Heat, liquid wrench, and patience.

The concerns here are many. I'm assuming there's some screw above the PF surface. But even with that you're in for a fight. The screw is small so there's not much actual screw to work with and it's in there tight enough to break the shaft as well. You'll probably get one chance at an alternate extraction method before you're hosed and have to "dig" it out. If you can't grab it with needle nose pliers as Kevlar51 suggests (or a small pair of vice grips) you may be able to cut/grind it to help the process by providing a better surface to grab it with. But both of these options remove some of the screw so that's going to make it more fragile.

I've had success by cutting/grinding the shaft in the following 2 ways in the past. But with such a small screw diameter there's not much room to work with:

1. grind two flat spots on either side of screw (flat spots would be parallel to each other) with a Dremmel tool and then use the pliers/vice grips to grip on the flats and carefully back it out.
2. cut/grind a small grove into the shaft of the screw with a Dremmel tool and then use a flat blade screwdriver to carefully back it out.

If you score the PF with the Dremmel it's not a huge issue as it's under the bumper. But I do understand the pain that would cause.

I'm interested to hear of other ideas as I'm probably missing some easier method.

Lots of ways to go since it's flush too.

The biggest problem with grinding or drilling it out is the bit wandering into the softer wood that's all around it. If you could clamp everything steady drilling/grinding it out could work.

You could work from the bottom of the PF and try to drill out the wood around the screw. Slowly with small bits that will deflect around the screw shaft. You'd not drill any deeper than say 3/4s of the PF thickness. The idea being you're removing all the wood from around the screw from the underside. If you're careful you might be able to drill out enough around the screw that you could gently push it through from the top. Then you could carefully clean up the mess left from the boring exercise by drilling the hole out to the size of a dowel, again not going all the way through. You'd back fill the hole with the matching wood dowel - glue and tap it in to set. Then re-drill the pilot from the top. That would preserve the upper PF condition, get the thing out, and fix the mess from the underside.

Yea, solder like electrical solder or silver plumbing isn't going to have the holding power. I've pulled bolts out of engine blocks and such by tack welding a nut on the break but that screw is sooooo small that it would probably just vaporize rather than bond and we don't even know what the composition of the screw is.

It's basically a sh*t situation. I don't envy your situation. Good luck and whatever you do let us know.

Nice!

Thanks for reporting back.

As Rockbiter mentioned, if you find the same type of switch you can disassemble it and swap the "Extra Ball" insert over to the new switch. Or simply move the plastic face over to your old switch. It's all the same in the end, but the switches are not different, just the insert text.

As chuckwurt mentioned. If the screws keep falling out then either the screw threads are shot or the holes have been stripped out. Try replacing the screws with new and if they don't snug up you'll need to step up one size. You can get the tap hole size for the stepped up screw off the net and buy self tapping sheet metal screws which will cut new threads when you put them in the first time.

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I'd have to stuff my head inside my game to be sure (can't do that at the moment) but that pin/shaft looks bent. Or possibly that part you have highlighted in the diagram is hogged out and that's why it's not sitting on the pin properly.

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Did you use a proper punch-down tool or a screwdriver? If you used a screwdriver, that's probably why the connection is marginal.

What connector does it plug into.. it looks like a 12 pin, 22awg, .156 which Marco should have a substitute on their site. The OEM Pancon connectors that size are NLA I believe. If they are made they are hard to find...

Sounds more like bad solder joints on the board.

If the wires are mangled you can pull them all out, cut off an equal amount on each wire (just enough to get rid of the mess), and re-punch them to clean it up.

It appears that your goalie is closer to the net than mine. It's difficult to tell for sure in your pic but the location of the upward bend is proud of the white line on my game. Thus the goalie is positioned further away from the net structure.

I'm not sure why your setup would end up being closer than mine as the bends in the support seem similar and correct.

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This seems like a problem that you could debug with the glass off pretty easily. At least determine what the main issue is. Resets that occur with a coil activation can be caused by a bad diode.

Ok, so I went back and re-read your description and apparently read right over the "2 frames" and went straight to after bonus animation in my head. In which case would be the trough kickout.

This is something that should be easy to pull the glass and see exactly what causes the issue. Can you start a game, pull the ball from the shooter lane and drop it in the outhole and have it reset? Or do you have to get past the ball in play timer before so it's definitely related to bonus counting?

Have you tried just running all the Sound tests? I had a WH2o that would reboot during games and it turned out it was a ribbon cable between the CPU and Sound boards.

That grounding lug at the bottom of the head is not supposed to be bent over like that. So I suspect that the ground lead that runs from the cab to the head was connected to that and it got yanked hard. Look inside the back of the cab for a bright green wire to ground.

I suspect someone dropped the head and the ground wire got hung up on something in the cab, thus it wrenched the lug and pulled the eye crimp off the end of the wire.

Just popped open my WCS and took a better look at your pic and I don't see anything amiss. I think I see the cab ground wire (which is a braid) hiding in the background in your image. So you're ok with ground.

The lug is still bent from a nasty yank but I bet it's from someone pulling out the display panel without paying attention. They pulled the eye off the end of the green/yellow wire going to the speaker. Note that the eye on the lug end is different, and the extra lug matches the factory one attached to the speaker. I suspect when they put the new one on they just left the old one on the stud.

Note that the spring that connects the diverter plunger to the arm must be assembled in a specific orientation:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/world-cup-soccer-94-owners-everyone-welcome/page/151#post-6982104

Are you running the latest software revision? Highest ver is L2 so you probably are since that's not a lot of software updates.

https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2811

Have you looked for bad wiring connections and cold solder joints on the opto boards in the circuit. There's boards for each switch and then a 7 opto board under the PF?