Bought my first WCS this weekend for about $950. Everything works when running the tests. But as you see, it's in dire need of a cleaning.
Some wear where expected, and minor spots on the PF, but all in all a good buy I think.

Time to buy smaller parts and plastics, and use a lot of elbow grease.

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I'm guessing none-existing maintenance in a bar or something. This machine probably never had the rubbers changed or was never waxed/cleaned.

But I've some nightmarish repairs and fixes/hacks that would make this machine look like gold. I just don't understand some people.

Hi, can someone help me identify some plastics? I'm in the process of cleaning and replacing stuff. It's the one (or several?) plastics on the left side by the assist hole. It's quite damaged as you can see in my picture.

I can't find good pictures of how the parts look. Would appreciate part/ref numbers on them. Thanks!

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Edit: I suspect it's this big one complete under ramp plastic that runs on both sides?? Am I right?

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It doesn't need to be restored to perfection. Just presentable and playable. Not everybody wants 100% on all machines.

Thanks for the info and advice.

Anyone care to share instructions/schematic of bulb position for the GI lights?

On my way to order LED lights and figured many of you already researched the amount and "color styling".

Nevermind, I searched the thread and used a combination of Jeffsgames list and gut feeling from google search. Cold white, purple, red and some green will be my GI.

How do I remove the main back and side plastic ramp? I've unplugged all the connectors underneath and removed all visible screws and washers. Do I need to remove this diverter also? If so how?

The last locking screw on it on top wont move at all. It's rusted. The first bottom one was tough.

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Thank you, I will take a look.

I couldn't figure out how to get the diverter apart. Should it just lift straight out from the top? I even tried to remove the coil and spring which pivots the arm but that didn't help. Maybe mine is just stuck from dirt and rust? I'm afraid to apply any larger force.

The assembly schematic doesn't quite help me.

I'm stupid. I never looked for a screw of any sort. Especially not the little black allen screw on the side. I just figured that it "popped" apart.

I think I need better lighting too.

My rod is snug and tight, I don't have the same gap as pictured above. lol Thanks guys

@BioBa lol, thatsapenis.gif

I just received one marco goalie target with decal yesterday. Haven't installed it yet, but it looks pretty tough and feels good.

Cleaning in progress. Notice the groove in the football. I guess the remains are everywhere in this machine. It looks terrible, but it's mainly just dirty. Rust in some places. This machine was played and enjoyed by many but never serviced.

But...progress is being made allthough slowly. Note that I'm not fully restoring it. I got it cheap. It will be thoroughly cleaned and polished and then played once again. New posts, new rubber, new goalie, new football, some new plastics and Led GI. The rest is cleaning.

Gues what part of the ramp I started cleaning. lol

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Nothing that can't be fixed. Spent about three hours on this ramp alone.

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It is a type of polishing wax! It's simply called scratchremoving wax, and is sold by a local reseller, it's their own brand so it's really cheap. It contains a mix of car wax and a soft abrasive and silicone. It really works wonders on plastics, probably on playfields also as it's only removes really fine scratches but I haven't dared to try. I use a boat cleaner (plastic hulls) for PF's from the same brand.

http://www.biltema.se/sv/Bilvard/Exterior-rengoring/Repborttagningsvax-2000019485/

10 USD for 500ml.

Lightning flippers are shorter, yes.

The ball will donfine without the screw. It wont exactly fly off. Just check that it doesnt wobble too much, as some simply will do.

Start with cleaning. Dirty optos are the problem 9/10 times.

Button light are always hell on any game. Some are bayonet, some you just pull and push with a snap. They usually break somehow before you realize which it is. And they are usually old and brittle. My recommendation is to not touch if they work, and yes, sometimes they require a really short led like a superbright or flux.

I have a new ball (the rubber ball only). How do I replace it? I thought it was only the top screw and then you lift it off. But nope...

Ok good! I was afraid it was attached to a mechanism of some sort. Thanks

Slow progress (my first shop) Almost everything is off. Ramps are cleaned and like new. I have new plastics where they were broken. New goalie, new ball. Soon I can start cleaning the PF, and start to replace posts, rubbers and install leds.

And just today I noticed black tape over the left inlane to stop the wear, it was covered by dirt when I bought it, oh well. I'll just let it be until the day I want to learn pf restoration.

This game was left in cold storage and is filthy af with rust (even some white mold on mini pf lol). It will not be 100% perfect when I'm done but good enough to enjoy for many more years. Electronics are reflowed, powerdriver is completely restored and solder touchups have been made under pf. I cant wait too see it when I put it back together

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Oh btw, I'd like to buy a cliffy protector for the assist hole, if anyone have one extra. Or any other protector as long as its for the assist. That one has the most wear.

lol check my earlier posts in this thread, the plastic ramps were basically BLACK. But they're better than new now. Some plastics have yellowed over time but not the ramps. I'm fine with that.

I have no idea what has happened to this machine but I bought it for ~1000usd.And notice the extreme grove in the bottom of the soccer ball! I guess the remains of it is sprayed over the entire pf! lol

I think it's from Portugal. Inside is actually very good. The PF is mostly dirty because the previous owner was probably retarded, and some rust due to poor storage environment (again, retarded owner).

A friend bought it in a batch with 20 other machines.

Second ramp finished. I'm down to the pf now.

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Yes, all my Bally/Williams games have some of this happened.

Just repin those connectors. Easy job but a bit fiddly if you're not used to a crimp tool. Make sure the pins on the board itself are in good condition. Check the solderings also on the rear of the board.

Forget the removal tool. Just cut the wires as close to the old connectors you can. You still have plenty of length left to use. Strip them as needed and recrimp them. Just make sure you crimp them nice and properly, give them a tug before you plug them in the new connectors, and be careful to plug them into the correct hole.

It could be part of the problem naturally. I did mention to check the pins and the soldering on the back of the board. But I usually do all the repairs when isolating the fault to a particular part?

Shitty soldering? Sure. Burned pin? Ok. Might as well get a fresh connector too.

Can someone please tell me what screws are used for the bumper caps? They are not mentioned in the assembly in the manual.
My screws were rusted and some broke off. Thanks

Thank you, but are you sure? I think my screws where longer and had a type of flat point (not pointy at all) where the threads start.

It's difficult to tell when the scale is off on a picture.

Alright, thanks.

I have bought a new header plastic. How do I take the striker sign (with the bulb) off and reattach it to the header plastic? The old header plastic was in three pieces.

Looks like its mounted with a rivet? How would one remove and reattach it to the new plastic without rivet tools? The signs metal base has still an old piece of the header plastic attached to it.

Thank you all for the information. I think I'll go with this solution! Sounds pretty easy.

I'm not a pinball restorer and this WCS that has been standing in my basement for the last 9 months will be my first and last project.

Thanks a lot, but I live in Sweden. lol I wish people in my area were as helpful and friendly like you guys, rarely do people offer to help here.

Yellowish is the new white. Looks great to me!

Soooo I'm getting nearer a working WCS, somewhat...I think. I put in a new rottendog power drive board, booted it up today (I still have all ramps and some details off from the pf). I noticed that I will have to replace a few iffy GI lamp sockets that wont light up or are intermittent.

Anyway, I was running through the coil check to see if there were any issues, and none of the coils or any flashers actuated. The goalie and ball motor worked in the test. Very strange, I thought maybe it had something to do that I still have ramps and things plugged out which maybe doesn't complete a circuit or something.

So I coined the game and pushed start to let the game search for balls and all coils suddenly jumped alive in the ball search. I still don't know if my flippers work however since they didnt actuate in either ball search or diagnostic test. What am I missing?

Yes, how else would I access the test mode or the buttons? Isn't the test supposed to override the coin door? Forgive me, but I'm new to shopping machines, I've only had working machines before.

Do'h! so simple, thanks a lot. I'll let the test run and close the door then.

Could you point out the switch?

Current state of my restoration. 8 months in and I'm feeling that it's close to the end. No more fault codes. Two bumper lamps are broken off and need to be replaced as well as the goal tray opto. Two new flipper bats should go on and then I can start putting everything back together.

This will not be a perfect restoration but compared to how filthy this was (check my post history in this thread) it'll be perfectly fine, even if some schmuck has pierced the pf slightly in a couple spots by using too long screws when changing a flipper coil.

Btw do you have any tips why some GI lights are so intermittent with some led lamps? Sometimes the slightest touch can make them go out but stay perfectly on when adjusted. Normal bulbs dont seem to behave the same.

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Yes, I'm only playing around with some color combinations. Usually white is simply the way to go as it will keep the original color design.

The purple LEDs are VERY purple in this picture, but they are much more white to the eye in person. Only slightly off white with a purple tint.
I think I will only keep the green ones in the bottom (to match my green bats with white rubber) and the green ones in the goal. The three leds in the back will blue or white, yellow is too weak.

I use only frosted tips, except for the rollover lanes and bumpers where I have cointakers double leds. Had a few laying around to test with. The bumper area is so dark otherwise.

Thanks for your input.

Beginning to see the end on my restoration. Everything seem to be working, except my flippers. I tried with the switch test and I get no response at all when pushing the buttons. I put all five balls in to see if I got any response when starting a game (without any ramps and so on) and they were still dead. Put a ball in the assist hole and I couldn't get it to trigger either.

Could it be both flipper opto boards? I find it unlikely but it could be possible. Best way to test this? Any other theories? Thanks

Btw, I have a brand new rottendog power board in.

EDIT: Ok, so I replaced all fuses on the fliptronics board (I forgot about this board). Both flippers jumped up when I turned they game on. They fell back when it showed test report, I have no battery installed. I started a game and it wouldn't kick out any ball. I then turned the game off, and when turned on again, it shot an automatic fuse in my house.
A bad coil? Short circuit somewhere?

EDIT: Ok, so I replaced all fuses on the fliptronics board (I forgot about this board). Both flippers jumped up when I turned they game on. They fell back when it showed test report, I have no battery installed. I started a game and it wouldn't kick out any ball. I then turned the game off, and when turned on again, it shot an automatic fuse in my house.

A bad coil? Short circuit somewhere?

There was a 5A fuse in F904 on the fliptronics board where it should be 3A all the way. It was over fused, which is a sign of...what? I'm guessing there is a burnt transistor or something on the Flipboard which perhaps is causing "stuck on" flippers?

Why it triggered my breaker in the house (which I think is 16A), I dont know.

EDIT: for anyhow interested in helping, I started a separate thread here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/flipper-coils-wont-work-and-machine-blows-fuse-what-to-do

Make sure all the ribbon cables are sitting properly. Use electronics cleaner and spray them and let it dry for a minute before putting them back. May have dislodged during the move. Check the soldering on the opto boards.

Anyone have a good idea how to protect a new header plastic? I feel it's just a matter of time before it breaks again.

Also, should one lube the gearbox assembly for the ball? I feel it's a bit noisy. Is there a way to make it quieter?

What place? I travel to Trondheim now and then.

Access to the post is a pain as you say. It basically only possible if you remove all ramps and the coin toss assembly. I did this just yesterday. My post were in the most open position and I put them in the center of three possible positions.

Your TV award coil can be adjusted. Make sure the pin strikes the ball dead center, otherwise you will loose power. Also, pull the coil apart and clean the plastic coil sleeve. Dirt/old rubber residue adds too much friction. Do not put lubrication on coil mechs. They should be clean and dry.

You could cutout an extra plexi piece that runs under the right side by the tackle switch. Only place that need protection.
Large washers give some protection but doesn't cover it all. Should be enough for some hard ricochets though.

I'm looking into protecting the header plastic. That POS is more difficult to swap and get hold off. Not to mention the riveted metal bracket that's stuck to it.

I guess an extra cut out plexi piece to reinforce it is the way to go here too.

I think Ministry of Pinball had a set in stock. (Netherlands)

Me too. I soon have restored a real shitty one. Saved it from the bin. It was mainly dirty as hell. Minor pf damage due to using too long screws when replacing a coil and the usual wear around holes. It had been stored poorly, lots of rust on screws underneath but it doesnt affect function.

Would love a HUO

I think it's part of the goal celebration.

Wow that's so sweet! Don't like your led work but each to his own. Thanks for the pics.

Swedish store, Free-play.se have them for that same price, but I think they're repros. I have one though and its great.

Yes intermittent goal tray opto triggers vuk

Things mentioned in previous posts are pretty standard to check on any game.

You should always inspect unique aspects like in this case the football rubber, the gearbox and the goalie assembly. Header plastic is almost always shot. Also the long plastic piece next to assist switch, right before the goal. The plastics are expensive for this game.

Been restoring a wreck for the last 15 months up to a decent level, and today I finished the pop bumpers (my first time for those but I give cred to Vid's guide). The game is ready to be put together and be fine tuned. It has a few pf marks due to someone using too long screws that pierced the pf but oh well. I got the game cheap.

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Thanks rollitover

This machine was mostly filthy, I mean thousands and thousands of plays without any pf wear except around the holes. We can thank the rubber remains for this. Not to mention it was then stored somewhere cold and damp so a lot of screws got rusty over the years but mostly under the pf. I have posted original pictures a while ago in this thread back when I got it.

What I've done

New flipper bats
New rubbers + superbands
LED lights, mostly white but some added color here and there
New spinning football
New goalkeeper
Several new plastics
New pop bumper assemblies
Rottendog power board
Rottendog fliptronics board
Cliffy on one assist hole
Flame polished ramps
New plunger assembly
New coil sleeves almost everywhere
+ a lot of cleaning and polishing over and under pf

All coils are working but I have several new, plus flipper mechs etc standby. If it aint broken, don't fix it.

Thank you, motivation is usually the problem. Or "get the thumb out of my ass" as we say in Sweden. A pro would finish this in a few days, a week tops, while I haven't touched this months apart.

Use a boat plastic cleaner spray. Let it sit for a minute and then wipe off. My machine was about the same in a lot of places. It was effortless to get it off. I'm almost done. Finished up the pop bumpers recently with new lamp leads etc.

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I'm looking for the part number of this post circled here. Or length/diameter.
I need to replace it since min was rusted and the screw holding the ramp broke off in the threads.

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lol, let me know if you find out. I will measure it, but I have no clue about threads or screw that goes in.

Thank you, and I'll be damned if the hex post wasn't in the manual. I must've missed it last time. Unfortunately, my local store don't have it in stock so I will have to order from Germany or something.

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In your case the 2.96" is probably better. http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4765-19

5 bucks...wow.

Check out this massive teardown album user Mattmarr made. Maybe you will find what you need.

http://imgur.com/a/HFcGH

Intermittent behavior is almost always exclusively by something loose. Seldom its a failing component.

You have resoldered them. Good. Now try reseating switch matrix connectors on CPU board. Spray them with electro clean and let it dry before. Also inspect the male connector pins on the board also. Try reflowing them with new solder also.

The long wide ribbon cable running from CPU board (with all the chips) clockwise to the other three smaller boards is usually the culprit. The top center board is the sound board.

Carefully remove the cable, spray with contact/electronics cleaner, let it dry and reattach it. Press firmly.

Be sure to take pictures before if you don't know which way it's seated. There's a red edge on it to see alignment. Make sure the ribbon cable sits properly and doesn't "miss" any pins.

If you are uncertain, just try to press firmly on the cables four connections.

I got a huge picture dump from a member here. The imgur link is a few pages back. Unfortunately WCS is one of the trickier games to shop due to the layered ramps. Lots of things need to come off including posts when installing cliffys.

Don't lube your games. Save that for your woman.

Watch out for people overfusing! Something is probably blowing that original fuse to begin with.

Weird game behavior is almost always due to a CPU ball count error, and it's the trough opto board (or switches) 99% of the time.

Expected life? 23 years on my original

That needs to be refunded

LED all the way.

LCD looks washed out and the blacks are grey. The backlight makes it "dim" around the edges too.

Anyone have a picture of where to route the striker target/light cable by the VUK? I'm dumbfounded

Equally dumb with goal flasher dome. I have the wire marked up but I don't know how to route it best

Got the wire routing figured out. Holes were hiding just out of sight

Where does this plastic go? Final piece to put back. The game is done!

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Oh damn I knew I recognized it. Well it's almost two years in the making and during that time I've become a father. It's done but there are some small issues left.

-Goal optos does not work.
-Goalie left/right opto does not work. I'm guessing because there is an arm of some sort missing.
-assist hole is weak and misses the goal sometimes even though it's cleaned and have a new sleeve. Better replace the coil.

Oh and finally, what is the default position of the diverter? Mine is always to the right basically. Spring is too weak to pull it back out. I think the sleeve is bad. Couldn't get it out.

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Refer to my old posts how it looked when I got it.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/world-cup-soccer-94-owners-everyone-welcome/page/43#post-3002510
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/world-cup-soccer-94-owners-everyone-welcome/page/43#post-3015115
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/world-cup-soccer-94-owners-everyone-welcome/page/47#post-3123236
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/world-cup-soccer-94-owners-everyone-welcome/page/49#post-3162066

I have a new coil ready but I think I assembled the diverter incorrect since mine is basically always to the right. I remember it was not this tight either when I removed it.

Yeah tell me about it. Took out the sleeve, it was fine but dirty. Didn't have a spare so I cleaned it up with some fine sandpaper. Put it back together and the coil was running smoothly inside. Attached the diverter to the coil arm and it had smooth movement and enough play. Great! But during gameplay it wouldn't return back once it had engaged and there was too much resistance. Scratching my head with this one

Same as chuckwurt. I have all original bushings and parts back where they should. It's the weird mech fitting that's a pain in the a**.

Excellent! thank you. It will help for sure next time I go at it.

Diverter back on. Easy peasy thanks to you dleasman

It's not that bad actually. Just work systematically, number up the connectors underneath the pf. Unplug from below and once the two ramps are off you have easy access to almost everything. Lock playfield is really easy to get off too with only a few nuts. I think the skill shot assembly was the trickiest thing to put back together but it wasn't that bad either.

Led all the way. Lcd is not black enough imo and looks grey and washed out. The backlight on it is distracting.

I have exactly three purple leds in mine. One in the lock playfield and two under the right ramp next to the ball. Green behind the goal and the bottom lanes. The rest cold white. Double leds clear (standard stern) at pop bumpers and top lanes for extra brightness in that corner.

Only purple looks like crap imo. Cold whites is best for blue/green dominated games like this one, while warm white is better for red/orange/yellow themed games.

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