(Topic ID: 50131)

World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.


6 years ago

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  • 5,181 posts
  • 490 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 days ago by Gogojohnnyquack
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#4822 5 months ago

I finally joined the World Cup Soccer club after many years of wanting one! It's such a great game. I've got a few questions for the seasoned owners:

Firstly, my goalie pad is snapped but the decal appears to be holding quite well. I can't seem to find replacement parts. Are there any? If not, any suggestions for materials to use to make a new backing pad? I'll aim to re-use the decal and scan it while I've got it off the game.

Secondly, I'm finding the game to be quite easy, so I've set it to Extra Hard. Are there any settings besides what will be installed with Extra Hard that I should look at to add some more challenge?

Finally, I notice two switches at the ball lock to hold two balls but it only ever holds one. Are there any modes or settings that lock two balls up there?

#4826 5 months ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

If you're set for easy multiball start, where you can start multiball from the ramp, you can have a second ball in the lock lane.

Good to know! I might turn this on when my kids play because they struggle to start Multiball.

#4838 5 months ago

I've been dialling in my WCS and it's playing really well now. A couple more questions for the seasoned owners here.

Is it possible to adjust the angle of the Free Kick saucer kickouts? I've levelled my game but they still kick out undesirably (LH one goes close to the centre drain, and the RH one bounces off the sling).

Should there be a gate, or perhaps game code, to prevent losing balls out the Corner Kick lane exit? There is a switch at the top half of the kickback lane so the game knows when a ball has entered from the Corner Kick lane exit as opposed to via the regular outlane gap. Sucks to lose a ball that way!

Is there anywhere to buy replacement goalie pads? My pad is shattered. I could make repro myself, just need to find a suitable material to get laser cut and apply a polycarbonate decal.

#4842 5 months ago
Quoted from egyptrus:

I don't remember which setting it is but there is a way to have the corner kick lane kick the ball back into play when it goes out through that area.

Quoted from jecase:

I believe the adjustment to the side kickouts is described in the manual. Grasp the top of the kickout arm from the top and pull up. Hold in that position and bend the arm a tiny bit in the opposite direction that you want the ball to go.

Thanks for the tips!

#4844 5 months ago
Quoted from Grandnational007:

There is no gate there, but mine kicks the ball back into play (even when corner kick isn't lit) if it exits that way. I imagine it's an adjustment, maybe under difficulty settings? I'll have to look at my manual when I get home.

Indeed I found it last night under the name "Header Save" which is why I hadn't spotted it prior because the LH bumper has the name "header" on it so I mistakenly assumed it was referring to that.

While I was at it I also enabled the ramps to start multi-ball feature. I won't shoot for them but it makes it easier for my wife and kids to have fun with the game.

Quoted from Grandnational007:

I bought a replacement goalie cutout and decal from marco a few months back; it's not a "pad" like the regular one, but more of a vinyl/PET material. Haven't noticed a difference in gameplay or durability yet...

Good to know, I will probably pick that up next time I'm ordering parts. Marco's shipping costs to New Zealand are mental — $48 just for the flat goalie pad!

#4848 5 months ago
Quoted from flipper_fever76:

I had the same issue with the broken goalie pad. I just cut one out of a cheap 1/8" white plastic cutting board. Traced out the old pad, cut it rough with tin snips and then sanded it down till it was the same shape, drilled the mounting holes and stuck on a new decal. It actually came out really nice and plays perfectly. I think the cutting board cost me about 3 bucks at the family dollar.

That's an excellent idea. Cutting board is very similar material to the stock goalie pad.

I've already ordered a test from a print supplier with the goalie printed direct to PVC then CNC cut, so I'll see how that goes. If it doesn't last I'll give your cutting mat suggestion a try.

1 week later
#4854 5 months ago
Quoted from newy16216:

Mr pinball in Melbourne has the goalie

Unless I'm doing poor searching it looks like they've just got the pad and no decal, and the pad is the same price that Marco charges for the pad and the decal combined.

However, I got my test goalies from my print supplier yesterday. Direct printed on foamed PVC and CNC cut. They seem great! They've got the same amount of flex as the original rubber pad. Keen to find out how durable they are.

They work out to be less than a quarter of the price of buying a pad and decal from Marco. And when factoring shipping costs it's like 1/10th the price. So I'm happy!

#4858 5 months ago
Quoted from rollitover:

fire up the factory and produce a hundred give or take, and make them available!

I’m not sure if I’d be allowed to sell them because the decal artwork is probably copyrighted?

#4862 5 months ago
Quoted from OTRChief:

If you think it is copyrighted then change the goalie a little. (different hair or uniform). People make alternate translites you could make an alternate goalie.

Hmm. Good suggestion. I'll have to think about that. I only like doing mods if they're genuinely an improvement while also fitting with the artwork of the game.

#4864 5 months ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:

Which plunger spring do you folks use? The manual calls for the medium-tension green spring. But if find I can’t hit the closest skill shot light without getting completely lucky once in a blue moon. I tried replacing the spring with another green, with no change. But I then I replaced it with the high tension blue and it gives much more control.
Is this cheating?

When you say "closest skill shot light" do you mean the top (1), middle (2), or bottom (3) hole? I could take "closest" to mean 1 (shortest plunge to achieve) or 3 (closest to the player).

#4866 5 months ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:

3-closest to the player

I have the same issue as you then. I figured a higher tension spring would be good. My only concern is that I hear about WCS skill shot assemblies busting their welds from balls slamming into the base, and a hard full-plunge into the 3rd hole may exacerbate that.

#4873 5 months ago
Quoted from maffewl:

I get the point, but there is no "skill" when it simply will not go into that slot unless by sheer bounce "luck". There is zero skill in that. I want to make it more of a skill shot where it is attainable and something to shoot for. At the moment, it is a test report trigger that says the switch must be bad because it hasn't activated in so long.

Agreed. IMO the full plunge shot should, for the most part, be the "gimmie". The "skill" is in getting the correct strength for the other two holes because they are less than the full plunge. If WCS had four holes and the full plunge jumped the whole lot, awarding nothing, then you'd be correct.

The only way I can get the bottom hole is by plunging short and hoping for the ball to bounce twice, over both holes off both posts, into the bottom hole.

I plunge every ball as an attempt to reach the bottom hole and I almost never get it. Other WCS's I've played, a full plunge goes into the bottom hole almost every time. That's how it should be. Something is not right with mine.

2 weeks later
#4923 4 months ago
Quoted from dleasman:

I went a completely different route... I left the black rubber, but had my entire skillshot assembly and rail and had all of it blasted down and powder coated in a deep yellow that matches the yellow on the side of the machine. Many like the 80's gold tone plating, but I much prefer the updated look. Mine looks as if it just came off the assembly line last week (save for some normal wear).
One issue with powder coating the rail... It's so slick that the ball kept flying off, so I had to make some adjustments to try to slow the ball down, while still allowing them to eject Striker's Hideout of there are 2 balls in there at the same time. After a lot of fiddling, I finally found the balance between eject power, and keeping the ball on the rail.

I'm looking at powder coating mine too. I'm thinking purple that is prominent on the playfield and cabinet. I'll be curious to find out if I have the same issue as you. I may PM you to ask how you addressed it.

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