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I recently had the goalie VUK popping too. It was a broken connection to one of my optos. Resoldered it and it was good to go.
Quoted from TheCapn:I talked to the owner of color dmd months ago. He confirmed that someone IS working on WCS.
Posted this a while back. I wasn't blowing smoke.
Getting a colorDMD for this game. Should I get the LCD or LED version? This is my first colorDMD to ever get. So, looking for reasons on why one is better than the other too. Thanks, guys.
Quoted from dleasman:The picture on the right side photo looks 1000x better than the left, which is all dark and purple. It's an interesting idea, but I am not sure how I like the black strips down each side. I accomplished a similar effect by putting in mirror blades, plus the addition of 3 spotlights, and some white led strips in the drain hole and above the field light stickers at the top.
Even though I like the brighter look, I am sure there are some who would like the dark better. My thinking is that WCS looks better bright, where Adams Family or Mars Attacks would look better with a dark theme. To each their own.
Mine has mirror blades too. I also had a spotlight on each sling. Another toward the left orbit and another toward the goal area. Even with different GI lighting you will not get the same effect that the stadium gives. The photo on the left is without any extra lighting from spotlights. The spotlights have HELPED for months, but now with stadiums i no longer have the bulky units around my game. The stadium kit is barely noticable. But, to each their own indeed.
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:The only electronic thing I have left to fix is the coin door. Does anybody else that has the 3 coin door front have one with lights in the orange boxes on the door? I have bulbs in there, have switched them out, reseated wiring, and done every basic troubleshooting step tracing it back to the coin door control panel to get it working with no luck. Does anyone have any troubleshooting tips on this? There is not something simple like a dip-switch or an option in a menu somewhere you have to go through to turn the lights on in here.
[quoted image]
Use your DMM to see if you have VAC on the coin door bulb sockets. If you have 7-8 VAC then you need to trace your ground. If you don't have VAC on the bulb sockets then you need to trace your current. If you are savvy enough you can alligator clip some jumper wires to another GI line and ground to see if the bulbs light up or not. Happy hunting.
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:Can you fill me in on your acronyms... DMM and VAC?
Thanks! I'll start working on it tonight!
Digital MultiMeter - DMM
Voltage Alternating Current - VAC
Quoted from Pinzap:Mine came with the carbon fiber cliffys around the saucers. I like the look and protection.
http://www.passionforpinball.com/wcs94.htm
Thank you! Saw pics of these on someones machine and was wondering where they got them.
Damn. Literally an hour into TPF my plunger in my VUK broke off at the base where the plastic connects to the metal rod. I was able to do a temp fix by using epoxy. That held til the last day of TPF. Working on getting a replacement. Anyone else had to replace theirs in the past?
Quoted from Kevlar51:I’m having issues with my Striker’s hideout popper. Sometimes it’s fine and sometimes it’ll take 10+ attempts before the ball has enough force to shoot up and come down the wire chute.
Anything I should be looking for to fix?
Verify your VUK plunger is intact and that the solenoid is free moving. More than likely a mechanical issue.
Looks like you have a bridge of a connection (circled in blue). The only way the two red areas should have a connection is with a bulb in between them. This board isn't 'bad', but does need some TLC. First step - Just make sure there isn't continuity between the two red points using your DMM. EDIT: After looking closer I may be seeing something else, but take the bulb out and examine the board better and/or send us some better pics.
Capture (resized).JPG
Quoted from delt31:I checked and it's just the pic. There is sep b/w the two Reds.
Here are some super close up pics. Thanks in advance![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Okay, the board 'looks' fine. The next step is to verify the diodes on the board. Pretty simple continuity test with your DMM. Red lead on the banded side and black lead on the other - if you have continuity its bad. Reverse the leads and you should have continuity. If you don't have continuity either direction then it is also bad.
Quoted from OTRChief:Pins 4 & 5 on the connector appear to have a solder bridge between them. I don't think this is correct. Also check the continuity between each pin (not just the solder around it) and the next point of the circuit.
Quoted from mastercello:I would even say it does not only appear...it is almost certain that you have a short there!
Good eye guys! Man, I'm pissed that I didn't see that.
Capture (resized).PNGIt's obvious that since we all own this game - we know it's great. But here is a review for those that are looking for a good game that aren't 'in the know'.
Quoted from allsportdvd:Great review and nice to see you back with a new video. Curious as to why you have the Data East style pop bumper caps on this game?
It's been years since I put those caps on there - chances are that was the only versions available in clear at the time.
Quoted from Ceckitti:TheCapn
Hey guys, I have a file that I will share freely to those of interest. My original speaker covers were decals and not easy to work with - plus they began to peel over time. I have since came to what I believe to be a better solution. It's basically an image you print and then apply behind the speaker panel cover. I used cardstock material to make the white portions more opaque so it wouldn't bleed through. All you need to do is cut out the black portions (using a razor blade/xacto knife). This is just the 2nd version. Hell, even mine is technically the trial quality. I was just testing it out. They can look even better if you cut them better than I did. lol
20220320_150526_resized (resized).jpg20220320_150532_resized (resized).jpg20220320_150536_resized (resized).jpgBecause everyone knows how to make a stencil, right? It cracks me up every time I break things down to a simple form for people you get those that come back with "JUST do it this way - it worked for me". Maybe if you were contacted on multiple platforms with people asking how to perform certain tasks on these games as much as me you would understand why I do it this way. Because believe it or not - there are those that don't know how to make a stencil or even spray paint, but I guarantee you more people know how to print something that gives the same effect. No mess. No waiting for paint to dry, no worrying if the stencil is offset, no worries if the paint fades over time. If a future buyer doesn't like the look of the speakers you can easily remove the paper cover. It's basically fool proof (if there is a will there is a way though). A lot of people require simplicity due to lack of skill or knowledge on the topic at hand.
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