(Topic ID: 50131)
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Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992-
Jurassic Park (Premium)
Stern, 2019
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Oktoberfest
American Pinball, 2018
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World Cup Soccer
Bally, 1994
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Quakertown, PA
2 weeks later
Quoted from BobC:How would you deal with the lack of decals?
That game has a lot of ramp decals....re-use.. Reproduce?
Marco has some of the decals, but I don't think all of them.
Chris
5 years later
Quoted from misterhare:Welcome! On a scale of 1-5 how much of a project is it? 1 being a wrecked nightmare and 5 being a few things need fixed.
On that scale it's probably a 3. Needs a new motor for the soccer ball, some plastics, lamps, a really good cleaning, etc.
Was actually nicer than I expected when I finally got it set up.
IMG_2423 (resized).jpgIMG_2424 (resized).jpgIMG_2425 (resized).jpgIMG_2426 (resized).jpgI am hoping someone can shed some light on something for me. The machine I am working on was an operator game. there are many hacks around the machine, but this one has me confused. I *think* I got the answer I needed from a Facebook group but wanted to confirm.
So this is the operator hack:
Now, my thinking is that it was to "fix" a ball stuck issue, BUT, I also think the clear plastic on the closest jet bumper in the second photo is actually on the WRONG jet bumper. Can anyone confirm this should be on the back 2 bumpers, thus functioning the same as this hack?
Thanks in advance!
Chris
Thanks for the replies. Not only did he do the hack, but they blasted holes in the plastic with a soldering iron to do it. 
This is by far the dirtiest game I have ever worked on. May have mentioned that before. Check out the ramp compared to my TOTAN ramp that it’s sitting in (on the glass)
5B801B49-E4D8-41F0-AD18-10A18CEC053A (resized).jpegQuoted from jorro:I have a striker and some wc94 Dutch team players as a topper
In the backglass i have an wc card with autograph from Ruud Gullit
A Fifa 94 knvb Dutchy the lion mascot and two strikers at the entry of the ramps
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Holy crap your playfield is nice. I started tearing into the one I just got. It is not pretty
But with just a quick wipe down with some simple green it already looks better. Long way to go though.....
Chris
2 weeks later
Quoted from mc300baud:i have an interesting audio issue with my WCS: the over-all volume, including the start-up "bong," is quite hot or loud in relation to any of my other WPC games. even when i turn it down to "1" it's still about the same as my TOM (identical hardware, for reference) on "5" or "6". and of course, it does shut off at "0".
my question is for other WCS owners, is the original digital audio mastered at a noticeably higher level than many other WPC games?
for trouble-shooting, i started with the minimum-volume override (new batteries after being in storage for six months.) then i tried swapping the ribbon cable from TOM (a suggestion from another person on another forum.) no change. then i swapped the ROMs over to the audio board from TOM. that didn't make any difference either. with those two things eliminated, it's likely in the ROMs themselves or somewhere downstream from the audio board, and i really don't think there's much there other than the speakers, which appear to be original to the cab.
when i was initially looking at the board, i noticed that the ROMs appear to be aftermarket or have been re-burned at some point. this is a machine that was re-imported from Italy, and these are the ROMs it came with. i have my doubts that it's possible, but could aftermarket ROMs somehow have the digital audio at a higher level than originals?
if WCS is just louder than other games, i'd rather not spend a lot of time chasing my tail trying to get the issue resolved. i have TOM, CV, and TAF in the house to compare to: both TOM and TAF could be turned down to quite faint, CV wouldn't drop as low as either but definitely more so than WCS.
this machine has been on-location since i bought it and the lack of a low-volume adjustment hasn't been a problem, but i'm starting to rent my games out since location play in Washington is unlikely to come back any time soon, and this might be an issue for someone in a home setting.
The startup "BONG" and operator alert on our WCS is very loud, then it reverts to the volume we have set (Min override, 3). The machine my father in law has does the same thing as well.
Chrirs
Quoted from chuckwurt:Mine is a part of the header plastic. It’s all one piece.
Mine is a metal bracket attached to the header plastic, with the Striker decal on that. Is that the same as what you have?
Chris
So to anyone who has shopped out their WCS, how dirty was YOUR game? The one I am working on was purchased from the original route operator who bought it new in 1994. I am fairly certain it hasn't been apart since then it's clear that the op was a "wipe where you can see" type.
This has been a fun project though so far, not close to done yet though.
DSCF0013 (resized).JPGDSCF0021 (resized).JPGDSCF0027 (resized).JPGDSCF0035 (resized).JPGDSCF0100 (resized).JPGDSCF0107 (resized).JPGDSCF0110 (resized).JPGDSCF0111 (resized).JPGDSCF0116 (resized).JPGDSCF0117 (resized).JPGDSCF0118 (resized).JPGDSCF0143 (resized).JPGDSCF0145 (resized).JPGDSCF0149 (resized).JPGDSCF0219 (resized).JPGDSCF0221 (resized).JPGDSCF0257 (resized).JPGDSCF0261 (resized).JPGQuoted from rollitover:You do nice work SilverUnicorn.
Can I send you mine?
sure! Thanks for the compliment. I am, by FAR not an expert in restoration. I can clean thinks up nicely but I get super jealous when I see the good restorers do their work.
I get them to be nice (in my opinion) and playable. This one is for a local friend of mine and will be going out in route when it is done.
Chris
The one I am working on had so many broken plastics. New ones do make a huge difference. The old ones were yellowed and having clear ones is nice 
Got the playfield done today and tested and all seems to be working which is great. If you saw the before pics it doesn't even look like the same machine in my opinion.
Chris
DSCF0291 (resized).JPGDSCF0292 (resized).JPGDSCF0293 (resized).JPGDSCF0295 (resized).JPGDSCF0299 (resized).JPGDSCF0300 (resized).JPGDSCF0301 (resized).JPGDSCF0305 (resized).JPGDSCF0306 (resized).JPGQuoted from chuckwurt:Nice work!
Thanks! Check out the "Before" shots!
DSCF0017 (resized).JPGDSCF0018 (resized).JPGDSCF0019 (resized).JPGDSCF0020 (resized).JPGDSCF0021 (resized).JPGDSCF0022 (resized).JPGDSCF0100 (resized).JPGDSCF0107 (resized).JPGDSCF0110 (resized).JPGDSCF0116 (resized).JPGDSCF0117 (resized).JPGDSCF0142 (resized).JPGDSCF0143 (resized).JPGQuoted from rollitover:Gotta' ask SilverUnicorn,
Where was that thing stored?
Such fine, dark dust makes me curious.
Honestly I'm not sure. It was purchased new by an operator. My friend bought it 2 years ago and it had been sitting for 5 years is what he was told when he bought it.
That's all I know about it's history
Chris
4 weeks later
If anyone needs shop out pics or just wants to see how freaking filthy my WCS was, here are my shop out pics.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/91696572@N00/albums/72157716785621376
I couldn't remove all the ball tracks because I don't think this thing was cleaned it's entire life, but it is ar better than what I began with.
Chris
3 weeks later
Would someone be bale to take a photo of the board on the left inside the coin door. I think I plugged a connector in wrong and the game is doing weird things (tilt warning when I press the magna save button, etc).
the board below the left flipper button is that I need a photo of. Where the connector(s) are plugged in.
Thank you
So I have a problem apparently.
The game will add a player and also give a tilt warning when the magnet button is pressed.
Any ideas are welcome. Plugs are correct per photo above.
Chris
Quoted from Coyote:What happens in Switch Test?
So....switch test is an adventure for sure. The magnet and flipper button worked fine in the switch edge test.
I bumped the connector and that’s when it got interesting. Touching the connector produces the following - you can hear it but I couldn’t film both at the same time....
I will be removing the board and reflowing the pins tonight to see what happens then.
Chris
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:So....switch test is an adventure for sure. The magnet and flipper button worked fine in the switch edge test.
I bumped the connector and that’s when it got interesting. Touching the connector produces the following - you can hear it but I couldn’t film both at the same time....I will be removing the board and reflowing the pins tonight to see what happens then.
Chris
Reflowed the connector pins and it's working like a champ now. Thanks for the ideas!
Chris
Quoted from Mattyk:Very noisy. Things I’ve tried include loosening the two screws holding the motor a bit. Just make sure they aren’t super tight. I also tried removing the motor and shooting a small amount of white lithium grease into the gearbox. If you find a better way let us know.
Bottom line it’s noisy and I can’t wait to score a goal to quiet it down.
Funny though. A couple of times the noise of the ball quieted almost completely down and I know for a fact the motor was still working. Then it went back to normal noisy.
This. It's the one beef I have with the game really. Super noisy on my machine too.
Chris
Quoted from Jerickso77:This keeps happening and it's driving me crazy! Had to snip off part of the rubber.
[quoted image]
Might be the wrong size rubber like some have said. I didn’t remember one there so I had to look at mine. Guess someone removed it at some point and when I shopped it out didn’t think twice about it. LOL
1 month later
Quoted from arsmith7:Anyone have a color dmd on their WCS? Trying to decide between LCD and LED and looking for first hand opinions.
My LED arrives tomorrow if you need pics of it once I have it installed. Personal preference for me is the LED, but you have more options with the LCD version. I have LCD in my TOTAN and LED in T3, Pinball Magic, and Breakshot.
Chris
Quoted from chuckwurt:The colors aren’t nearly as rich. Looks weird. LCD or bust if you have the choice.
I think the colors look more washed out on our TOTAN with the LCD. Pinball Magic, Breakshot, and T3 are incredibly crisp and super colorful and all have LED versions in them.
It's all personal preference really. I don't find any of the added modes on the LCD version at all appealing to me, but hey, it would be really boring if everyone liked the same thing!
Chris
Got my color DMD LED last night.
Here's an attract mode comparison vs. original, as recorded on I Phone. Both are brighter and more "crisp" in person. And I really need to clean that DMD window. LOL
Before (duh)
After:
And what the heck, a LCD / LED comparison between TOTAN and Pinball Magic. Camera has a hard time with LED because of the brightness I think. Just like when filming LED lights.:
Chris
Quoted from chuckwurt:Thanks for posting! I think these videos doa. Good job of showing one of my gripes with LED. I don’t like that I can see all the pixels even if they are black. LCD is just cleaner in presentation.
I will 100% agree with that. You can most definitely see the dots on the LED versions. I was actually thinking about using a tint on the DMD window which would hide the dots a little bit but it looks like a factory DMD to me also, so there's that.
Again, personal preference For me, the color vividness outweighs the seeing the dots.
Chris
2 weeks later
Quoted from lpeters82:Before and after. Not going to lie, I was super nervous about this, but I'm pretty happy with the results. This is a clear water slide decal boardered by a white water slide decal. I then went over it with another layer of clear. I was worried it might be too thick but this stuff so thin.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Super hard to even tell from a players perspective. I swear the yellow looks worse on the camera then in real life.
[quoted image]
I think that looks great! Wisk I had that kind of skill (or stamina. LOL)
Chris
1 month later
Quoted from SkaterVet:Considering converting to LEDs. Anyone have experience with the non-ghosting ones Tilt sells? Does non-ghosting mean you don’t need an OCD board to prevent the crazy fast flicker rate? Does anything major need to be disassembled to replace all of these lights? Thanks for any input!
I bought Comet Non Ghosting and Like them. I do not have a LED OCD board in my game. I can get a video if you'd like, but that doesn't always work because of the cameras rate vs. the LED.
Chris
4 months later
Quoted from allsportdvd:I put a striker figure in that spot on mine and haven’t had a ball stuck yet
[quoted image]
Nice! And I love the yellow wireforms!
Chris
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