(Topic ID: 50131)

World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.


By DEWSHO

6 years ago



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  • 5,599 posts
  • 519 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by provato
  • Topic is favorited by 182 Pinsiders

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#3230 2 years ago
Quoted from enkiktd:

My (new to me) WCS is great but I'm encountering a issue where the game powers down mid-game, most often during multi-ball. It shuts itself completely off and then turns back on again. It will know the score I ended with at the point that it shuts off when it comes back on. This seems to occur in 1 out of every 40 or so games.
Any ideas on what I should look into for this issue?

The re-setting is often due to the 5V supply to the MPU dropping too low. This can be because of bad components on the driver board, or as simple as bad connectors between the driver board and the MPU board. As a first step, try re-seating the connectors between the driver board and the MPU board.

#3235 2 years ago
Quoted from enkiktd:

Yep, been going through the manual all day!
Fixed it, ended up being Fuse F112.

Great. Let us know if the re-setting is resolved.

#3239 2 years ago

What's the best way to clean the wireform? Does Autosol work or will it strip the gold colour?

1 week later
#3248 2 years ago
Quoted from enkiktd:

New issue, two wires appear to be sticking out behind the goalie that are not attached to anything. My guess is that they were soldered to the goalie and came loose.
Any idea what these wires do, or which wire should be resoldered where?

This is how it's supposed to be soldered.

1 week later
#3254 2 years ago

Does anyone know where this plastic goes?

DSC_0445 (resized).JPG

#3256 2 years ago
Quoted from mattmarr:

Attached to the bottom right pop bumper.

Awesome, thanks.

#3259 2 years ago
Quoted from Brijam:

I recently picked up a WCS, and it was fairly dirty and had a couple of minor issues. This is my first time stripping a machine down to the playfield! I picked up a newer set of plastics off of eBay, but I still have cracked, scratched and yellow plastics unfortunately. I wish there were new plastics available.
I went with all white GI and generally color matched the controlled lamps. I picked up light blue and purple Titans too. I think it turned out pretty good, very bright and shows off the playfield.
I still have a couple of things to do - I picked up a new soccer ball but I haven't installed it yet, and the soccer ball motor sounds like an R/C car when it spins, it's really, really loud so I have a new one coming. And the coin toss lights were missing a light socket. Oh and if anyone knows where to get another light socket that fits that little coin toss light board please let me know.
If I get brave, maybe I'll try one of those wet decals to fix the huge scratch near the referee's lady bits!

Congrats! It looks very nice. Where did you get the LEDs from?

#3261 2 years ago

Brijam Yeah man I'm in Singapore. Hope you enjoyed your stay!

#3270 2 years ago
Quoted from Brijam:

ronaldraygun I love Singapore! Is there any place to play there?

There's a couple of kiddy arcades in the shopping malls to play. Check out the Pin Map on this site for games and locations. No barcades yet though.

#3273 2 years ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

I'm rebuilding my WCS and am in the final debugging stages. While going through the solenoid check for the first time, I had a small meltdown.
While testing the goalie magna-save, R88 and R89 disintegrated, and immediately the DMD blacked out and now only shows parts of the display in the form of hashed lines. After shutting down and testing, I also found Q52 was bad (Q52, R88 and R89 all have to do with the left slingshot). I've gone through all of the schematics and see no correlation between the goalie magna-save, the left sling and the DMD.
I've replaced the failed components but before I reinstall the driver board I want to be sure that the same thing isn't going to happen again. Does anyone know how these might all be related?

Both the magna-save and the slingshots are running on 50VDC, but the magna-save is fed off the fliptronic board and the slingshots are fed off the driver board. However, the fliptronic board is fed 50VAC at J901 coming from the driver board at J104. Did you blow any fuses on the fliptronic board or the driver board?

#3276 2 years ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

Replaced the transistor and resistors, had to repair some traces in the process, DMD is toast (luckily I had a spare).
Powered back on and the left sling (the new Q52) fires immediately, so something ain't right.

Make sure that the connectors are right.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=World_Cup_Soccer

1 month later
#3327 2 years ago
Quoted from aerobert:

I'm looking for the part number of this post circled here. Or length/diameter.
I need to replace it since min was rusted and the screw holding the ramp broke off in the threads.

It's one of these:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=world+cup+soccer+hex+spacer

1 month later
#3376 2 years ago
Quoted from Bud:

Just an update to the major shop job I've been doing, ended up pretty much restoring the cab inside and out and stripping off 95% of the top side.

Looks great. What's your plan for cleaning the wireform?

1 month later
#3402 2 years ago
Quoted from Wiggy:

Any tips how to keep track off all the parts when disembling and remembering where everything goes?

Take lots of pictures. No matter how many you take you will always miss something. That's when you come on here and ask for help

1 month later
#3504 2 years ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Some of them are made of a slicker, harder rubber. They last longer but the action isn't as good.

Yeah the new ball is harder and doesn't give much action to the silver ball.

#3506 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Yeah I can’t speak to anything but NOS. Mines great if kept clean.

Where do you get NOS from?

4 weeks later
#3594 2 years ago
Quoted from Jo4114:

How difficult is it to hit the 3rd hole on the Coin Toss? My shooter does not have enough power with the Green or Blue shooter springs and I am hesitant to go up another rung on the spring tension. I have not played anyone else's WCS so is it just luck to hit the 3rd hole or is there something wrong on my machine?

For me the ball got hung up on the switch in the shooter lane such that there was a gap between the ball and the plunger, and a s a result the plunger could not hit the ball properly. After bending the switch arm slightly backwards the ball rolled over it and the plunger could hit it with full force.

#3605 2 years ago
Quoted from SunMonkeyAZ:

So I tried, with a game going, lighting the lock and manually hitting the switch and no magnet buzz sound audio. Tested again in switch test and the switch (78) registers when I roll a ball through or hit it with my finger. So it seems like the switch isn’t registering while lock is lit. If it was and the problem was with the magnet I would get the magnet buzz audio after the switch hit. Or is the audio played when the magnet is activated? Kind of confused on where this lies.

There's a setting for how long the magnet is activated. Long shot but you might want to check that.

#3607 2 years ago
Quoted from mima:

Remember waht setting#?
/mima

Adjustements Menu -> Feature Adjustmens -> Lock Magnet Time (A.2 31)

#3621 2 years ago
Quoted from Ben1981:

Just installed side decals from pinball center, cleaned and put on a fresh coat of wax. This game is so awesome when playing fast and fresh!
GOAAAAL

What kind of wax are you using?

#3647 2 years ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Here's a HIRES vid from YouTube. Looks good but yeah, I'll stick to the dots.
» YouTube video

Yeah no. A 90's game should have dots. It doesn't look right otherwise.

1 week later
#3671 2 years ago

The Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries are guaranteed to not leak.

http://www.energizer.com/batteries/energizer-ultimate-lithium-batteries

2 weeks later
#3717 2 years ago
Quoted from GLSP3022:

Seems like a good opportunity for Bally to use an auto launcher.

Oh but it's so much more fun to launch balls manually during the frenzy of shooting goals.

4 weeks later
#3835 2 years ago
Quoted from Farmboss:

I think I figured out what is going on with my lane change issues. No issue. The lane change lights work fine. It is just that you need to have one of the lanes trigger before they can be switched via flippers. I am surprised I never knew about this before. Thank for all the help.

Basic pinball bro, basic pinball.

#3859 2 years ago
Quoted from GLSP3022:

I found the balls in the trough are not rolling all the way down to the front. They're getting hung up in there quite often. I've taken the trough apart, cleaned the heck out of it. Polished it up. Balls still get hung up in there.

Sounds like your balls are magnetised. Have yo tried to replace them with non-magnetic ones?

#3866 2 years ago
Quoted from GLSP3022:

Exactly what I'm thinking. It didnt happen with the original corroded pinballs.

These balls are resistant to residual magnetism.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PB116-5

As opposed to these balls which can be magnetised.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PB116-SJ

#3890 2 years ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Still need to do the pops and maybe make some adjustments and color matches later, but here’s what we got:

Pretty happy with the result! Can’t believe I held out on LEDs for so long! I got LED addiction now is what my buddies tell me, lol.

Sweet. What lights did you go with?

#3891 2 years ago
Quoted from Wiggy:

Anyone know what pin(s) on J120 that handle backbox lights?

J120-3 to J120-9 (white-yellow) is one circuit and J120-5 to J120-10 (white-green) is the other.

#3900 2 years ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

The yellow has got me thinking about my parts but I may try powder coating in the teal color that is prominent in this game. Thoughts from the club?

The gold colour has a symbolic significance to this game. It would be awesome to see someone do a really nice plating job.

#3903 2 years ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

The Comet 2 SMD warm white with a fluted lens for the GI, and the 4 SMD with no lens for most of the inserts in warm white, cool white or purple depending on the insert, and a few flexies where needed. I kept incandescent colored bulbs in the visible spots. Pretty simple scheme but it turned out really good.

Do you remember how many G.I. bulbs there are on the playfield and what sockets they are? I counted 33 but I'm not sure if they're all 555.

#3906 2 years ago

That's wicked man! Can you give us some details, where it was made, cost etc.

#3912 2 years ago

Thanks guys. Great info on the lights.

My tally:
G.I.: 73 555s.
Playfield: 49 555s, 21 44s.
Grand total: 122 555s, 21 44s.

This includes:
- All the G.I on the playfield, backbox, backpanel, coin slots, start button, and extra-ball button.
- All the inserts and lights on the playfield including pop-bumpers.

Flashers are excluded.

1 month later
#4021 1 year ago
Quoted from mixmastapj:

Got one of these about 14 months ago, hadn't really done much to it and was gonna start prepping to clean it up myself. Noticed during tests that none of my flashers work (nor ever have since I got it! Whoops!).
Found this thread in some googling https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rec.games.pinball/sNNqRIy7HkU, but it might be a little bit above my ability level. What other things should I be checking first, and what's the how-to on checking fuses, testing the 20v, etc. I have a multimeter, but not a good operator

Start by opening the backbox. After powering on, LED 5 on the driver board (the big one) should be on.

LED (resized).png

#4023 1 year ago
Quoted from mixmastapj:

We got power to LED 5, but still no luck on flashers.

Alright, so the fuse is fine. Let's check the flasher bulbs then.
Pull out a flasher bulb. Set your multimeter on continuity check (usually a sound symbol). The meter should beep when you connect the two test leads together. Then put the leads to the bulb leads. The meter will beep if the bulb is OK.

2 weeks later
#4076 1 year ago
Quoted from wylcot:

Hi guys,
Anyone has a scan of the goal keeper, by any chance??
Mine is destroyed...

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1924-8

1 week later
#4099 1 year ago

wicked.

1 month later
#4178 1 year ago

In 2026 it's back in US again.

U.S., Canada, Mexico Unite Long Enough to Win 2026 World Cup Bid https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2018-06-13/u-s-canada-mexico-unite-long-enough-to-win-2026-world-cup-bid

1 week later
#4208 1 year ago
Quoted from rollitover:

Noted.
I was merely pointing out
the obscurity of Iceland being in the tournament.

Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Definitely not a team one expected to qualify and then to tie Argentina...Messi has to feel like he’s snake bit at World Cup.

What rock have you guys been living under They qualified to the 2016 Euro Championships where they came second in their group ahead of Portugal. In the round of 16 they knocked out England and made it into the quarter-finals.

1 month later
#4266 1 year ago
Quoted from Grandnational007:

Just joined the club yesterday!
Tearing it down and getting her all cleaned up.
I want to LED this one pretty bad, (frosted/natural whites only) does anybody have a somewhat decent list of types and quantities of bulbs to grab from Comet? I've spent the better part of 6 hours reading through this thread, and it doesn't appear very comprehensive.
GGGGOOOOOOOAAAAAALLLLLLLLLL!!!!!!!

Check out
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/world-cup-soccer-94-owners-everyone-welcome/page/79#post-4229876

3 weeks later
#4337 1 year ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Has anyone brought their machine at a straight up 90 degree angle like this or am I missing something.

That's the preferred way of putting the playfield up. Don't use the lever on the side, it will bend your playfield.

#4368 1 year ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

I still have no idea what the flashing red light is in the upper left of the backbox or what it means.

The blinking light means your cpu is running. So that's good.

#4381 1 year ago
Quoted from Giebzilla:

I was not able to find the longer concave piece on mine either. The trapezoid from the upper right portion of you photo is as seen in the photo.
[quoted image]

I never quite understood what the purpose of the trapezoid one is. I think it usually goes over the wire-form (i.e. the other way around compared to your photo).

3 weeks later
#4489 1 year ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

R Ramp L Ramp Spinner. You'll be facing Germany in no time.

Spinner, spinner, spinner also works.

1 month later
#4560 1 year ago
Quoted from Scoot:

My wcs is coming along nicely. Here is a before and after photo. I have replaced every plastic with new ones along with protectors, new titan rubbers, comet leds, and side art blades. I Have been cleaning and fixing for 3 days straight and the game is working at 99%. The only issue I am having is the left flipper is not working with the assist hole and lighting the in lanes above the pops. The right flipper works fine. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
If anyone would like an entire set of used plastics, just pm me.
[quoted image][quoted image]

That's a very nice LED job. What did you use behind the backglass?

1 week later
#4588 1 year ago
Quoted from Scoot:

Had a snow day so I took advantage of it. More restoration for the cheap. Some frisket paper and an airbrush. Couldn’t be happier.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Stop it. You make the rest of us look bad.

1 month later
#4813 1 year ago
Quoted from Lame33:

I recently acquired a dog soccer that lives up to the name in more ways than one. It's going to take a ton of training to get this french poodle re-import housebroken. The bark that's annoying me this week is the assist kick-out. Even before I began patching the excessive wear and cleaning it up, it was inconsistent at best. Probably 1 out of 10 shots will anemically limp past the goalie with most just dropping back into the hole. (at this rate it could probably qualify for the US team)
As can be seen in this video.
I could use some idea on what to try next. The game is not set at a steep angle. The parts are all clean. Even the coil sleeve wasn't dirty. I've used super-lube on the metal parts that move against metal parts and the all the motion seems smooth with no interference.

What else am I missing?

Replace the spring. If it's too soft then it won't translate the force to the ball.

4 weeks later
2 weeks later
#4910 1 year ago
Quoted from ChrisThePintern:

My WCS gate in the back isn’t stopping the ball. What is the inactivated position supposed to do? After one orbit does it stop the ball? Any suggestions?
Thanks!

It's supposed to stop the ball until you have
travel lit. Then it will let the ball travel around the whole orbit.

1 week later
#4935 11 months ago

What colour are the legs on your game? Mine are black but looking at the promo flyer the seem to have been gold original.

1 month later
#5071 10 months ago
Quoted from LoserKid3:

Hey everybody! I'm having some troubles with my WCS94. When I shoot the ball into the TV award scoop, the F104 fuse blows. I replaced the coil and diode just because the old one looked terrible.
Even after I replaced the coil, the fuse still blows. I'm thinking I need to replace the transistor along with a new diode on the coil.
Am I heading in the wrong direction? If it is a transistor, which transistor would it be?
Also unrelated problem. DMD goes "fuzzy" some times. I think it's just a loose connection. Which plug would I need to check?

The driver transistor for the TV popper is Q80. Normally, if the transistor is shorted it would lock the solenoid and blow the fuse immediately on power up though.

2 months later
#5163 7 months ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

The ball get stuck between the wireform from the goal and the left ramp right return where they meet above the top of the right slingshot. I do not believe it happened before i wonder what may have change or what i can do to space those more?

Do you have the correct spacer holding up the ramp?

#5165 7 months ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

i was trying to compare with pictures and it looks similar but it could be slightly off? Not sure where to see what size they should be?

It’s 2.5 inch.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4436-10

#5167 7 months ago

Make sure the spacer sits on top of the wireform with a washer.

73E5C6E2-C464-4508-908D-83380597D086 (resized).jpeg
#5170 7 months ago
Quoted from SkaterVet:

Should the 2 screws that connect the goalie plastic to the mechanism have a nut holding them in place?

There’s supposed to be a plate-nut in the back.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-12823

7 months later
#5570 17 days ago
Quoted from provato:

well... Greece was indeed in World Cup 1994 (although we did terrible...)
Seeing our national team's appearance, I can only laugh at it
But... It's the 90's!!! I have seen worse from this time period.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Those haircuts alone should’ve won it.
You did a lot better ten years later though.

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