Quoted from enkiktd:

My (new to me) WCS is great but I'm encountering a issue where the game powers down mid-game, most often during multi-ball. It shuts itself completely off and then turns back on again. It will know the score I ended with at the point that it shuts off when it comes back on. This seems to occur in 1 out of every 40 or so games.
Any ideas on what I should look into for this issue?

Quoted from enkiktd:

Yep, been going through the manual all day!
Fixed it, ended up being Fuse F112.

Quoted from enkiktd:

New issue, two wires appear to be sticking out behind the goalie that are not attached to anything. My guess is that they were soldered to the goalie and came loose.
Any idea what these wires do, or which wire should be resoldered where?

Quoted from mattmarr:

Attached to the bottom right pop bumper.

Quoted from Brijam:

I recently picked up a WCS, and it was fairly dirty and had a couple of minor issues. This is my first time stripping a machine down to the playfield! I picked up a newer set of plastics off of eBay, but I still have cracked, scratched and yellow plastics unfortunately. I wish there were new plastics available.
I went with all white GI and generally color matched the controlled lamps. I picked up light blue and purple Titans too. I think it turned out pretty good, very bright and shows off the playfield.
I still have a couple of things to do - I picked up a new soccer ball but I haven't installed it yet, and the soccer ball motor sounds like an R/C car when it spins, it's really, really loud so I have a new one coming. And the coin toss lights were missing a light socket. Oh and if anyone knows where to get another light socket that fits that little coin toss light board please let me know.
If I get brave, maybe I'll try one of those wet decals to fix the huge scratch near the referee's lady bits!

Quoted from Brijam:

ronaldraygun I love Singapore! Is there any place to play there?

Quoted from Hammerhead:

I'm rebuilding my WCS and am in the final debugging stages. While going through the solenoid check for the first time, I had a small meltdown.
While testing the goalie magna-save, R88 and R89 disintegrated, and immediately the DMD blacked out and now only shows parts of the display in the form of hashed lines. After shutting down and testing, I also found Q52 was bad (Q52, R88 and R89 all have to do with the left slingshot). I've gone through all of the schematics and see no correlation between the goalie magna-save, the left sling and the DMD.
I've replaced the failed components but before I reinstall the driver board I want to be sure that the same thing isn't going to happen again. Does anyone know how these might all be related?

Quoted from Hammerhead:

Replaced the transistor and resistors, had to repair some traces in the process, DMD is toast (luckily I had a spare).
Powered back on and the left sling (the new Q52) fires immediately, so something ain't right.

Quoted from aerobert:

I'm looking for the part number of this post circled here. Or length/diameter.
I need to replace it since min was rusted and the screw holding the ramp broke off in the threads.

Quoted from Bud:

Just an update to the major shop job I've been doing, ended up pretty much restoring the cab inside and out and stripping off 95% of the top side.

Quoted from Wiggy:

Any tips how to keep track off all the parts when disembling and remembering where everything goes?

Quoted from gunstarhero:

Some of them are made of a slicker, harder rubber. They last longer but the action isn't as good.

Quoted from chuckwurt:

Yeah I can’t speak to anything but NOS. Mines great if kept clean.

Quoted from Jo4114:

How difficult is it to hit the 3rd hole on the Coin Toss? My shooter does not have enough power with the Green or Blue shooter springs and I am hesitant to go up another rung on the spring tension. I have not played anyone else's WCS so is it just luck to hit the 3rd hole or is there something wrong on my machine?

Quoted from SunMonkeyAZ:

So I tried, with a game going, lighting the lock and manually hitting the switch and no magnet buzz sound audio. Tested again in switch test and the switch (78) registers when I roll a ball through or hit it with my finger. So it seems like the switch isn’t registering while lock is lit. If it was and the problem was with the magnet I would get the magnet buzz audio after the switch hit. Or is the audio played when the magnet is activated? Kind of confused on where this lies.

Quoted from mima:

Remember waht setting#?
/mima

Quoted from Ben1981:

Just installed side decals from pinball center, cleaned and put on a fresh coat of wax. This game is so awesome when playing fast and fresh!
GOAAAAL

Quoted from gunstarhero:

Here's a HIRES vid from YouTube. Looks good but yeah, I'll stick to the dots.
» YouTube video

Quoted from GLSP3022:

Seems like a good opportunity for Bally to use an auto launcher.

Quoted from Farmboss:

I think I figured out what is going on with my lane change issues. No issue. The lane change lights work fine. It is just that you need to have one of the lanes trigger before they can be switched via flippers. I am surprised I never knew about this before. Thank for all the help.

Quoted from GLSP3022:

I found the balls in the trough are not rolling all the way down to the front. They're getting hung up in there quite often. I've taken the trough apart, cleaned the heck out of it. Polished it up. Balls still get hung up in there.

Quoted from GLSP3022:

Exactly what I'm thinking. It didnt happen with the original corroded pinballs.

Quoted from gunstarhero:

Still need to do the pops and maybe make some adjustments and color matches later, but here’s what we got:

Pretty happy with the result! Can’t believe I held out on LEDs for so long! I got LED addiction now is what my buddies tell me, lol.

Quoted from Wiggy:

Anyone know what pin(s) on J120 that handle backbox lights?

Quoted from allsportdvd:

The yellow has got me thinking about my parts but I may try powder coating in the teal color that is prominent in this game. Thoughts from the club?

Quoted from gunstarhero:

The Comet 2 SMD warm white with a fluted lens for the GI, and the 4 SMD with no lens for most of the inserts in warm white, cool white or purple depending on the insert, and a few flexies where needed. I kept incandescent colored bulbs in the visible spots. Pretty simple scheme but it turned out really good.

Quoted from mixmastapj:

Got one of these about 14 months ago, hadn't really done much to it and was gonna start prepping to clean it up myself. Noticed during tests that none of my flashers work (nor ever have since I got it! Whoops!).
Found this thread in some googling https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rec.games.pinball/sNNqRIy7HkU, but it might be a little bit above my ability level. What other things should I be checking first, and what's the how-to on checking fuses, testing the 20v, etc. I have a multimeter, but not a good operator

Quoted from mixmastapj:

We got power to LED 5, but still no luck on flashers.

Quoted from wylcot:

Hi guys,
Anyone has a scan of the goal keeper, by any chance??
Mine is destroyed...

Quoted from rollitover:

Noted.
I was merely pointing out
the obscurity of Iceland being in the tournament.

Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Definitely not a team one expected to qualify and then to tie Argentina...Messi has to feel like he’s snake bit at World Cup.

Quoted from Grandnational007:

Just joined the club yesterday!
Tearing it down and getting her all cleaned up.
I want to LED this one pretty bad, (frosted/natural whites only) does anybody have a somewhat decent list of types and quantities of bulbs to grab from Comet? I've spent the better part of 6 hours reading through this thread, and it doesn't appear very comprehensive.
GGGGOOOOOOOAAAAAALLLLLLLLLL!!!!!!!

Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

Has anyone brought their machine at a straight up 90 degree angle like this or am I missing something.

Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

I still have no idea what the flashing red light is in the upper left of the backbox or what it means.

Quoted from Giebzilla:

I was not able to find the longer concave piece on mine either. The trapezoid from the upper right portion of you photo is as seen in the photo.
[quoted image]

Quoted from gunstarhero:

R Ramp L Ramp Spinner. You'll be facing Germany in no time.

Quoted from Scoot:

My wcs is coming along nicely. Here is a before and after photo. I have replaced every plastic with new ones along with protectors, new titan rubbers, comet leds, and side art blades. I Have been cleaning and fixing for 3 days straight and the game is working at 99%. The only issue I am having is the left flipper is not working with the assist hole and lighting the in lanes above the pops. The right flipper works fine. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
If anyone would like an entire set of used plastics, just pm me.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Scoot:

Had a snow day so I took advantage of it. More restoration for the cheap. Some frisket paper and an airbrush. Couldn’t be happier.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Lame33:

I recently acquired a dog soccer that lives up to the name in more ways than one. It's going to take a ton of training to get this french poodle re-import housebroken. The bark that's annoying me this week is the assist kick-out. Even before I began patching the excessive wear and cleaning it up, it was inconsistent at best. Probably 1 out of 10 shots will anemically limp past the goalie with most just dropping back into the hole. (at this rate it could probably qualify for the US team)
As can be seen in this video.
I could use some idea on what to try next. The game is not set at a steep angle. The parts are all clean. Even the coil sleeve wasn't dirty. I've used super-lube on the metal parts that move against metal parts and the all the motion seems smooth with no interference.

What else am I missing?

Quoted from scruffypinball:

My WCS gate in the back isn’t stopping the ball. What is the inactivated position supposed to do? After one orbit does it stop the ball? Any suggestions?
Thanks!

Quoted from LoserKid_Pinball:

Hey everybody! I'm having some troubles with my WCS94. When I shoot the ball into the TV award scoop, the F104 fuse blows. I replaced the coil and diode just because the old one looked terrible.
Even after I replaced the coil, the fuse still blows. I'm thinking I need to replace the transistor along with a new diode on the coil.
Am I heading in the wrong direction? If it is a transistor, which transistor would it be?
Also unrelated problem. DMD goes "fuzzy" some times. I think it's just a loose connection. Which plug would I need to check?

Quoted from hisokajp:

The ball get stuck between the wireform from the goal and the left ramp right return where they meet above the top of the right slingshot. I do not believe it happened before i wonder what may have change or what i can do to space those more?

Quoted from hisokajp:

i was trying to compare with pictures and it looks similar but it could be slightly off? Not sure where to see what size they should be?

Quoted from RonaldRayGun:

It’s 2.5 inch.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4436-10

Quoted from SkaterVet:

Should the 2 screws that connect the goalie plastic to the mechanism have a nut holding them in place?

Quoted from provato:

well... Greece was indeed in World Cup 1994 (although we did terrible...)
Seeing our national team's appearance, I can only laugh at it
But... It's the 90's!!! I have seen worse from this time period.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Quoted from Ceckitti:

Tried to get this for half an hour tonight. Couldnt get one. Im running LA-2 in the machine. Have to say i have had the game for a long time and cant say ive ever seen a combo scored.

Quoted from eharan:

My WCS is having issues scoring a goal from the upper eject hole (free kick) kick out up by the goal. The solenoid just seems to be too weak to make it all the way into the goal. It almost makes it but just a little bit short. Any ideas on how to fix this / adjust the strength of that solenoid?
Thanks
Ed

Quoted from Coz:

Friend of mine has a prototype wcs94 thats all original, less than 350 plays in mint condition. What would this be valued at?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Boosterfive:

I also wanted to mention / vent here about how I had to fix a bunch of wiring hackery on my WCS. This is the second pin I've bought, and on my first pin (Radical) I had a bunch of wiring hackery to fix as well. Now my sample pool is still pretty small, but I just have to say: What is up with operators going to such great lengths avoiding simple things like replacing burnt up connectors and headers, instead of wiring switching power supplies and splicing wires? How is the amount of time necessary to do all that, and money for the parts, a better solution that $2 in parts, and then some time soldering it in?
In both games (Radical and WCS) this was done, because the GI connector burnt up. All that work, to circumvent it, and they would have fixed it better, and cheaper had they just done it right. This seems like a common thing here in Europe. Maybe parts are just harder to get here.
I just can't get over how much effort is put into fixing these the wrong way.
Any of you had problems like that on your WCS or other pins?
Fortunately, I was able to fix the connectors (bought a new driver board), and rip out all of the additional junk. So my WCS is back to factory wiring and is running as intended.
Alright rant finished. Hope you all are having a great day!

Quoted from DBUM:

Does anyone have a list of the bulbs needed and or flashers list somewhere. I just want to know how many flashers and lamps of each socket type and possibly location

Quoted from RonaldRayGun:

Thanks guys. Great info on the lights.
My tally:
G.I.: 73 555s.
Playfield: 49 555s, 21 44s.
Grand total: 122 555s, 21 44s.
This includes:
- All the G.I on the playfield, backbox, backpanel, coin slots, start button, and extra-ball button.
- All the inserts and lights on the playfield including pop-bumpers.
Flashers are excluded.

Quoted from Toine79:

A lot of corosion due to humidity.
Is there something I can do about it beide cleaning or replacing the corroded parts?

Quoted from Kaps:

Anyone have a trick on getting the ball into the cointoss gate closest to the plunger? I can easily get it into the top two, but I have played dozens of games and can't for the life of me get it into the one closest to the plunger.

Quoted from Kaps:

Are these what you’re talking about?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-7066
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4219.1

Quoted from steveontilt:

Hi everyone, picked up a world cup last weekend! very excited about owning this game (its my second pin). my excitement unfortunately faded a little tonight as it appears to have some issues (not sure if I got duped or its related to transporting it).My problem started when the game reset on me yesterday in the middle of a game after running all week without issue (probably played 40 games between my son and I without issue). I played the rest of the night and it ran flawlessly so I shrugged it off and hoped it was just a random glitch. unfortunately tonight it only lasted a couple of games and reset again... then again and now I'm lucky if I get through my first ball. does any one have any idea where I should start with trouble shooting my issue? the only thing I've changed since I got it home was to put it into freeplay I'm assuming this has nothing to do with the issue. any help or direction would be greatly appreciated thanks in advance.

Quoted from chuckwurt:

Crazy that they magnetize after one magnet grab. Haha

Quoted from rlbohon3:

The only thing that was still giving me fits was the kicker/saucer for the goalie. Half the time it kicks fine; half the time it’s a wimpy kick and doesn’t make it to the goal. Haven’t figured that out yet.

Quoted from gunstarhero:

Pretty tough to do with no auto plunger.

Quoted from Ceckitti:

When I plunge all the balls.... I flipper with right hand, and plunge with left hand crossed under my right arm. LOL. I look like an idiot.... but it works

Quoted from rx2006je:

Any suggestions on making the tv/final draw scoop easier. I swear I brick it all the time. Gotta be one of the toughest shots in pinball.

Quoted from Jerickso77:

I've never seen this game call out a combo and I swear I've hit 3 ways a bunch of times. What gives?

Quoted from Jerickso77:

LX-2?
[quoted image]

Quoted from kdoggity:

Anyone know the length of the 14 pin ribbon, for the dot matrix display. Think mine mine be losing connection...

Quoted from rockwell:

I woulda got the DMD but it was out of stock.

Quoted from provato:

That is amazing programming!

Quoted from nitrojcrawf:

Okay peeps, what was the true reason for the gold legs and wireform on the game when the rest of the metal is silver?

Quoted from Banksy:

Hi I recently purchased a World Cup Soccer (my first pin)and after owning it for 2 months my dmd has started malfunctioning. Any help on how to resolve would be very much appreciated.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from chuckwurt:

You’re probably missing the plastic spacer that goes on top of the ramp where the diverter arm comes through. Your below the playfield setup shows the diverter arm coming through way too much. Should be flush with the crank. [quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

Cool, thanks. I tried to get my wireforms and coin toss brass plated locally and both places wouldn't touch them due the required clear coat after plating to prevent tarnishing. I had them powder coated but am not super thrilled with the look and feel. The chrome looks great and I may pursue that. WCS may be the game that I try my first full restore on, it is the only game that I've owned twice.

Quoted from drsfmd:

Wires on the interlock switch are good. I cleaned each of the connecting blades on the switch and no change. Maybe the switch itself has gone bad... but if any of you guys have ideas for other things to check, I'm open to it.
Both of the 12v test points on the PPB are giving correct voltages (11.99 and 12.15 respectively).

Quoted from AlexRogan84:

Thanks a lot. We're both happy with the trade. That's the beauty of everyone enjoying different games for different reasons.
Now my collection is very Bally Williams heavy... The Stern WPT got traded for the WCS94 and the Data East Lethal Weapon 3 got traded for the Bride of Pinbot.[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from AlexRogan84:

Anyone happen to know how many GI bulbs are on or under the playfield? Looking to do my entire game and need to buy the bulbs. Wasn't sure how many GI bulbs to get (of each base, wedge and bayonet).
The backbox I have done already and the manual lists all the insert lamps. Just looking to know about the GI bulbs. A location map would be great, but just the number of each would be fine too.

Quoted from JediPimp:

Does anyone have a link to the ROM version lists and the changes made to each version?
I seem to have LX-1 ROM and I’m not sure if there was a version after and what the changes are.

Quoted from JediPimp:

Oh also does ANYONE know where I can find an extra ball button? The plastic on mine is cracked. They seem to be very hard to find now!
[quoted image]

Quoted from Thegamerskunk:

Thinking of ordering some new flippers for my WCS, but idk what color they should be. Probably gonna buy purple ones but would you recommend any other color since the playfield already is so purple? Although, purple is my favorite color.

Quoted from Duster72:

Troubleshooting help please - sorry, I'm new to fixing these older games.
Never had any mechanical issues with this game in the year I have had it. I was playing a game last night. Drained a ball. Next ball did not eject into the trough. I opened the coin door and manually ejected a ball. Shot the ball into the VUK and it did not fire the coil to shoot the ball up.
Is there a power board I need to look at? The bumpers, flippers, goalie, and ball were all working correctly.