(Topic ID: 50131)

World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.

By DEWSHO

10 years ago


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#1849 8 years ago
Quoted from curtis:

My WCS94 keeps on resetting. It can happy at any time during the game. I had the board fixed about two years ago. Someone mentioned that I should replace all the ribbon cables. I searched the forum for "resets" but didn't find any direction. Any ideas? Thank you.

Try reflowing the solder on the 5v regulator, LM 323 on the back of the driver board. It stopped mine from resetting. If the solder points look at all suspect, they most likely need to be reflowed.

1 week later
#1854 8 years ago
Quoted from pinnyheadhead:

Tech help please. If flippers went dead out of nowhere where do I start. I did a flipper coil test and nothing is happening. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

Check the fuses on the fliptronic board. Most likely they blew.

#1859 8 years ago

Coyote is right, go into the switch edge test, take all the balls out first and load them in while in the switch edge test. Make sure all the optos in the trough are registering properly. You most likely have a bad transmitor in the trough.

#1862 8 years ago

Yes, if one of the transmitters are going bad, it will be an intermittent issue until it eventually stops working all together.

#1864 8 years ago

It's most likely one of the transmitters but it's hard to test them until one goes bad.

#1867 8 years ago
Quoted from PinballNewb:

Have you tried unscrewing the transmitter board from the trough and looking at each led through your camera phone to ensure each one is bright?

If you have an iPhone, it only works with the back camera.
Also, use an old school flashlight to test the reciever optos. It won't work with a LED flashlight.

#1873 8 years ago

Tmezel... That connector is not used in the game anywhere. Don't worry about it. I can take a pic of mine when I get home and post it so u know what pin the black wire goes to at least.

#1878 8 years ago
Quoted from rollitover:

Curious: had some work done on mine awhile back which included the right flipper. The flippers are now at an even angle when engaged. I could've sworn that the right flipper should be at a slightly lower angle than the left. True?

On mine they are even when both engaged.

#1880 8 years ago

Striker 3 high is also a pair of optos right? I wonder if the problems your having isn't on the CPU? Go into the switch edge test and let it alone for ten minutes and see if anything registers on its own. If one of those optos registers or flickers, that's the transmitter I would replace.

#1882 8 years ago
Quoted from t3amaw3s0m3:

When I try to jiggle it and pull forward, it seems to actually be stuck on the left side, while the right side has a little bit of give. Any suggestions as to how I can pull the playfield forward? My local friends are all EM experts, and not very big on WPC system knowledge.

That right side needs to be popped up, meaning the front hook part shouldn't be pointing down like that. It should look like the left side. Carefully have someone pull the right side of the playfield forward ,to take tension of the hook bracket, toward the front of the machine and someone else needs to push the bracket "hook looking thing" up so it is parallel with that black piece of wood next to it. It looks a little bent ad the spring is broken or bent that would usually snap it back in position on its own. Maybe wear gloves so your fingers don't get pinched real bad. That's what I would do. Hope this helps.

#1884 8 years ago
Quoted from n1teowl:

Does this type of behavior (kicking out 2 balls) make sense if opto 3 is out? It the best course of action to replace the opto transmitter board? I think I'm close...
20150902_195001.jpg

First off, nice troubleshooting! That is without a doubt why 2 balls are spitting out at a time. Replace that opto and u should be good to go. If for some strange unknown reason it still happens, I would replace the first opto closest to the shooter lane. But if opto 3 was flickering in the switch test, that is more than likely the issue. Hopefully you have a replacement handy. If not radio shack sells them in pairs but their optos are reverse, the transceiver is dark colored and the receiver is clear. They still work fine though as replacements.

#1885 8 years ago
Quoted from n1teowl:

When I did another switch edge test, I saw that there was some weirdness with opto 3 and it would start flickering on and off. If I pressed on the opto board I could get it to switch on and off. This was definitely new behavior so I pulled the opto board and saw that opto was a different color than the others - ball 3 uses LED 4. It still emits light, but I'm assuming that it has gone bad somehow (see photo). Does this type of behavior (kicking out 2 balls) make sense if opto 3 is out? It the best course of action to replace the opto transmitter board? I think I'm close...
20150902_195001.jpg

Sorry, led 4 is probably fine, if led 3 was flickering in the switch edge test then most likely it is bad. Led 4 was probably replaced before you acquired the game and like I said they probably bought a pair of optos from radio shack, that's why it is a different color.

#1887 8 years ago
Quoted from n1teowl:

Actually, it's LED 4 that's bad (it maps to the ball 3 trough switch). It makes sense that it's been replaced in the past, hence the different color. Do you think I should replace the whole opto board seeing as it's been fixed (temporaily) once before? Would the replacement opto mean that the receiver board had been modified too? I don't really want to replace both boards if I don't have to. I haven't had a chance to pull it, it's a bit harder to get out. Thanks a lot for your help.

No problem, glad to help. I would just replace the opto itself instead of the whole board. It's a relatively easy fix if you are ok at soldering. The receiver board is most likely fine. They do not go bad usually since the transceiver is the side that does most of the work. Do u know how to solder? Or have a descent soldering iron with a pointy tip?

#1890 8 years ago
Quoted from n1teowl:

I am OK at soldering, and I guess it makes sense to give it a try. If it doesn't work out I can always replace the whole board. I'll let you know how it goes.

If you want to pm me your address, I can send you a couple of pairs of optos, I have a bunch of new ones I keep as spares. Let me know.

#1892 8 years ago

When I get home I'll take a picture of the bag they come in. I remember for sure they come in pairs in a clear bag with a white backing. The transceiver should be blackish and the reciver is clear. I think they were about $3 a pair. They were in the draws under led or ir section. You have a radio shack near u? I'd go get them ASAP.

#1893 8 years ago
Quoted from n1teowl:

Thanks for the generous offer, but I'd hate to put you out if they are something I can easily find at Radio Shack.

The problem is Radio Shacks are getting harder and harder to find. Sprint bought them out and they are closing them all eventually. The 2 by me are both out of business.

#1897 8 years ago
Quoted from n1teowl:

I think I got the right thing, although it's blue. Can I leave the receiver on the other board alone or should I use both of these? I'll solder in the emitter tomorrow and see how it goes.

20150903_201750.jpg

No just replace the emitter. Like I said, the receiver rarely go bad, well at least that's my experience. Can't wait to hear your results.
Do u have a desolder pump or a "solder sucker "? That will help get the old Opto off. If not u can probably get it off without it, it will just be slightly harder.

#1898 8 years ago

Also, u can cut the leads on the new opto a little shorter but make sure u keep on side longer so the Opto will be easier to snake through the board. Also make sure u have the notch lined up correctly, once u get the new one in place, bend the leads the opposite directions from one another to hold it in place while u solder, then cut them once the solder has cooled. Good luck.

#1899 8 years ago
Quoted from t3amaw3s0m3:

Tried this just now... pulled on the hook looking thing / springy part with a coat hanger so it was parallel to the wood rail. Then I had someone try yanking forward on the playfield once again, but to no avail. Not sure what it could be stuck on. Time to start drilling? Some folks suggested it could take a few minutes' worth of jiggling before it cooperates.

I'll take pic of mine and post it. Hopefully it will help. Standby for pics.

#1900 8 years ago

Here's the rails with the playfield fully pulled forward and locked in so u can tilt it upright.

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image_3.jpgimage_3.jpg

#1902 8 years ago
Quoted from n1teowl:

Well, I did my best to solder in that new emitter. It looked okay (not great) and I tried it out. That LED appears to be totally dead now, not lighting up at all and not showing up in the switch edge test. Not sure if it was my crappy soldering job or if the board was messed up. I guess it looks like I'll be ordering another opto board. Thanks for trying! I hope my new board fixes the issue. In the mean time, I'm going to put on some new rubbers and see what other parts I need.

Can u take a pic of your work so I can see if something got messed up? If u don't want to no prob. It's a pain to keep taking parts on and off.
You used the dark one out of the pair right?

#1904 8 years ago

Did u put the notch the right way?

#1905 8 years ago

And double check the back of the bag and make sure the dark one is the emitter. You never know if they changed it.

#1906 8 years ago

The notch. Sorry about the grainy pic. iPads take horrible pictures.

image.jpgimage.jpg

#1910 8 years ago
Quoted from n1teowl:

Well, it's dead Jim. I tried to desolder and resolder and ended up messing up the board. My skills are sadly lacking. It was a last ditch attempt though, so it was worth a try. I'll have to get the new board.

Star Trek reference... Nice!!

Well at least you tried ,right?!?!
Hope the new board arrives quickly.

#1914 8 years ago
Quoted from thall17:

My issue is since I moved from seller to my house I have been getting intermittent credit dot errors resulting in the diagnostics reporting a sound board interface error. I am also experiencing intermittent frozen /distorted display. This doesn't happen all the time but I would prefer it not happen at all. Reseating the cables and cycling power has cleared the issues...but doesn't give the warm fuzzy feeling or telling why it's happening.

Thanks!

Sounds like you need new ribbon cables. Are the current ribbon cables old looking or original?
I see you have a Scared Stiff, I would try the ribbon cables from the SS and put them in the WCS and see if the issue still pops up. I have a feeling it won't.

#1919 8 years ago
Quoted from thall17:

Would anyone with a great cabinet be willing to take some High Res photos for me? I would greatly appreciate it
Thanks

How did you make out with the ribbon cables?
Also, I will post some pics of the cab of the one I have at my house later tonight. Any special angles you would like? Or just front , sides and sides of back box?

#1921 8 years ago
Quoted from n1teowl:

I finally got my opto board from Great Lakes Modular and put it in. Everything seems to be working fine now! Thanks for your help in diagnosing this. While I was waiting for my board I took the opportunity to shop it out. New rubbers, polished everything, 2 coats of wax. Working and looking great.

Glad to hear that. GOAL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

#1922 8 years ago

I'm shopping out a WCS for a friend/fellow Pinsider and decided since he needed a new goal bracket to paint it gold, I'm also painting the goal posts and all the metal spacers gold also. More pics to come.

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image_1.jpgimage_1.jpg

#1924 8 years ago
Quoted from rollitover:

Nice! Will match the metal ramp very well.

Yes. I was thinking of doing the metal ramp too. I found a chip resistant clear so it might work. His ramp is very dull and starting to lose the gold color it had on it from the factory.

#1926 8 years ago
Quoted from rollitover:

Would love to restore the gold on mine as well. Got a quote of $40. Just don't have the extra coin to do it though.

$40!! That's a great price. Does that include re Golding the legs also?

2 weeks later
#1959 8 years ago
Quoted from beardorew:

Looks like I'll be joining the club next week – it'll be my first pin. Anything I should look into upgrading right away?

New soccer ball definitely and make sure the popper that shoots the goal has good strength to it.

#1961 8 years ago
Quoted from beardorew:

Thanks for the advice. Picked up the game last night.
Playfield is in nice condition overall, typical wear at the saucers and scoop. Came with a recently installed new ball and motor, and most of the inserts have been switched to LEDs. A few cracked plastics and some cabinet wear, but the only real issue (that doesn't affect play at all) is one of the WORLDCUP inserts is pressed in a tiny bit and mylared over.
When I was leveling the pin I couldn't find a bubble to adjust pitch near the shooter lane like so many other games have. Is it hidden there or just not present?

I don't think WCS had a bubble level on any of them. I could be wrong but I've never seen one with it. I think you can heat the insert from under the play field and push it up slightly to level it off but I would consult Vid's guide before doing that. let me guess your "Header" plastic is broken right?!?

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