Hey guys -
Okay, need some help. Once I get my game (early 2015 some time), I'm going to be installing the proto/sample playfield.

Not worried about installation, but I can't seem to find a good picture of the left and right inlane inserts. I believe that the colors were changed, but want to verify --

Can anyone grab a pic, or tell me what colors those two inserts are?

Thanks!
-Mike

It's like the dinner bell..

Players from all around will immediately recognize it, and come storming to play!

Story time:

When this game came out, i was working in an arcade down in Atlanta (where my TZ was, as well). Every lunchtime during the week, we'd have these three business men come in and play the game. They would hoot and hollar with the announcer - so much we could hear them clear outside the arcade in the mall.. "GGGOOAALL!!".

They made my day everytime I was thee and they came in. I started giving them bonus tokens, which they enjoyed the heck out of.

Anyone want to take a wager on where and how the switch titled "Left Ramp Drop-Thru" would be mounted?

Yeah, I'm wondering whether it was on the main ramp, so that all balls would activate it (even ones that exit ramp normally), or somehow mounted so that ONLY balls dropping down into the jets activate it.

There's no 'real' 2-ball multiball, but it can be started with only two balls. (i.e. If the lock magnet doesn't catch the ball, or if multiball is started via Striker, a bad lock switch causes the ball to be kicked out after being caught, etc.)

I thought that you had to at LEAST shoot the ramp (for the game to 'think' you had a ball locked) before Final Draw was lit. i.e. When you complete all skills, the 'Final Draw' doesn't light right away..

Yeah, I'm guessing either the magnet didn't turn on in time, or that switch just up from the magnet wasn't tripped.

Keep in mind, too, that the magnets have a heat breaker in them - if they get too hot (i.e. Get stuck on), it'll trip, deactivating the magnet until it cools down. I do NOT think this is happening in your case, but it's always a possibility..!

Nice! I haven't ordered mine yet, but *really* tempted to do so..

Someone had asked if the lock area ever held two balls.

Interestingly, with the change of a setting, you can lock (at least, momentarily) two balls in there -

Change your "A.2 04" setting ("Last Easy Release") to at least 1.

This is the last multiball that allows an 'easy release' - this allows for starting Final Draw by shooting a ramp. After locking the first ball, the ball will be served to plunger like normal. Shoot the second ball up any ramp, and the lock magnet will catch it as well, storing it in the lock area - at least until you shoot the (third) ball in the plunger lane.

Huh. I'd be real interested in seeing your adjustments. The one I'm playing (both on L-2 and P-2) reqiore at least one shot up the ramp.

Does the row shorts vanish if the switch connectors are unplugged?

Okay, then the issue isn't on your MPU, so don't worry about changing anything on there. Check your playfield wiring.

D13 is for the feed of 12v, so that current doesn't flow from the board into the rest of the +12v feed. Do you know what caused it to go? (If a LED or RECV got shorted to a controlled lamp or GI light or coil, then yeah, U1 and U2 could be bad on the 10-Opto board. (Though, it's odd in that Row 7 and 6 aren't shorted, even though they're also on U2.)

If you unplug J3 (the 12-pin, largest header on the 10-Opto board), do the Row shorts clear?

Okay -
That last screen you show is *normal*, assuming you have NO balls in the trough! (Trough optos have their own driver board - they do not use the 10-opto driver board.

So yes, likely you will need to replace the U1, U2, and U3, all LM399's. (Or, get a new 10-Opto board.)

Good luck!

Nono, if nothing else, I'll buy the game from you.

Okay, this means that the issue is ON the 10-Opto board, but not related to the chips or that diode.

If you HAVE a different 10-opto board (from another game, example) and try that.

If you don't, check the other diodes on the board. Check traces - make sure no traces have shorted. Check the wiring on the plugs, as well.

Also, try this - what do you get on the screen if you leave the 10-Opto board plugged in, but *disconnect* the Trough Opto boards?

Edit: Odd thing to check, but check the +12V DC coming into the Opto board, as well.

Wow, that's a really nice color! Looks darker than any green on the game - how's it match up?

Do the standard tests first -
Does it fire in solenoid test mode?
If not, then is the coil getting +50v?
if not, check the +50v feed to it (thicker wire).
If so, then something is up with the driver transistor or the driver wire (thinner wire).

Question for everyone here..

What percentage of Goalie Hits do you have in your game (B.x 21, 'Goalie Hits')? Not having the real game and playing a VPin version, I thought the goalie was much harder to hit, but I'm at 574%.

When I worked on the game, back in the 90's, I never remember it being that high. However, that was over 15 years ago, so I'm just trying to verify my memory.

I know.. I'm also admittedly interested in stats. To compare against the VPin stats.

Sorry, I had missed this earlier!

Are you not getting the constant +50v? If you're not, then follow that wire back and find the break, that'll fix your problem.

If you're not getting the driver wire grounding when it should fire, then either:
(1) The driver wire is cut somewhere. (Lose solder, came off another coil's lug, etc), or
(2) The transistors are toast.

You can check by manually firing it - grab a jumper wire, and connect it to the end (metal tab) of the driver xister, and the other end to ground. The coil should fire. If it does, then transistor is bad (or leading up to transistor is bad). If it does not, then driver wire from power board to coil is cut/loose somewhere.

That doesn't make any sense, though, since you mentioned that without the opto board plugged in, the switches act normally. In either case, yeah - then if the problem follows the MPU it's obviously on there. I don't have my schematics in front of me, so I can't verify U23 right now, sorry.

Oh, it's in the 'hidden' Bookeepings menu.
Go into the Bookeeping Menu, so that "B.1 Main Audits" is flashing
Quickly press all 4 service buttons at the same time. (Enter, Up, Down, Esc)
The screen will show an audit, though it could be on Bx.1 or Bx.2 (because of the multiple button press.)

You're in the hidden audits if you see ".1 EXEC LOCKUPS" or ".2 POWER UPS". I have a list somewhere explaining what all the stanrads ones mean, but the game-specific ones are near the end of the lloop (hit DN from .1 to roll around, like normal.) Goalie Hits is one of the items tracked.

Huh! That's lower than I would have thought. Thanks!

I'm actually not sure if those are reset when you do an Audit clear. I do NOT think so - and some (like Power Ons, and Lockup Codes) aren't EVER reset, unless you pull batteries.

All WPC games have these - though some games have no additional stats (like JY, for example, has no game-specific information).

Correct - or if you have MB Easy Release turned on. (The latter option will let you start the first multiball from the ramps, which will catch the ball as the animation starts, then release both.)

Possible, and likely - since row 2 is grounding WHEN the 7opto board is plugged in, something on the board is grounding the row. I'm at work and don't have the manual to glance through, but obviously check traces, diodes, etc. If you socketed the LM399 chip, take it out and see if the row is still grounded. (If you DIDN'T socket the LM339, replace it again, this time with a socket. ) If the row is still grounded with the ship pulled, then it's not the chip, it's a trace or diode or shorted resistor.

(Edit: I may be wrong about pulling the chip; again, I'm working from memory here.)

It's telling you that you REALLY want to sell it.

This one is easy, though - check your trough optos. *Most* Likely the 12v wire got cut, damaged, or broken while you were messing with the 7-opto board. Get a digital camera and see if the LEDs are transmitting, first.

Yeah, technically that's digital.

When I was tech for a game and played it often (and now, playing on VPM), I never, ever use it. Dunno why.

Hey owners -
Could someone send me a close-up picture (unlit) of the "Los Angeles" / "World Cup" insert over Detroit?

Thanks!
-Mike

Perfect, thanks!

Interesting that they seemed to keep the insert from prototype, but covered it with ink. (If you can verify, thanks! It looks like that in the pic..)

White was originally suite auth the game when I picked one up from the distributor..

My proto playfield has a lot of this. MANY of the inserts have cracks around them, and a few of the larger ones (like the large 'GOAL') are warped.

However, I'm going the 'easy' route, and will be sending it off to get touched up and clearcoated.

Right now Chris Hutchins is doing my TZ, because my TZ is my baby, and I've worked with Chris before. (CV Neons..). Once I get a WCS next to my TZ, my proto playfield will be sent out to Neo - who I've already spoken to - as it needs some serious sanding and insert touchup only.

IMHO, You'll get best results from Chris, but price will be higher and time will be longer.

Nice game! Interesting - those GI lights look a little more pinkish than purple? Or is that just the camera?

Congrats! when is #2 coming, then?

Only way is to unplug it. There's no option to 'disable knocker'.

Yeah, his face comes up during the "Where's Striker" mode from the TV Award.

Yup. Also, that coil normally is off, unless you're shooting the orbit when you have a city lit. Then it opens up and sends the ball back down to the lower PF..

While the game does not have any upper flippers, the game's OS still expects these switches to be activated (since they're all part of the same board on the cabinet).

Likely the opto for the upper flipper on your flipper board is bad. If you go into Switch Test, you should get two switches recorded for each flipper button.

All (Most?) WMS games from the 90's will reset high scores after 'x' number of games. (Off-hand, I do not know the number of games..) I THOUGHT that it reset Grand Champion as well, but perhaps not.

Switches were there in early sample & proto games. 'Far Right Upper' and 'Far Right Lower'. You can install them, but all they do is score you some small amount of points (like 2750? or something..)

Later playfields had the switch holes removed, obviously.

Guys -
The 'back goal' flasher - according to the image that Mike posted, is the 'Goal' flasher - there's one in the 'GOAL' insert in front of the goalie, and one in the back loop to the lanes/pop bumpers.

The first one will have two wires going to it, because they need to be wired to the second flasher ('GOAL' insert) in series.

Mike - If you are meaning the 'Goal Cage Top', then looking UNDER the playfield won't do you any good, as the flasher is on the top plastic over the goal, behind the goalie.

--Me

According to the manual(*), it should be a #906 bulb, and have Blk-Brn (driver/gnd) and a Red-Wht (+20v) to its terminals.

- Keep in mind, the WCS manual has a bunch or errors. I don't have a game handy to cross-reference, so take my words with a grain of salt. Example: The 'Goal Cage Top' says there should be two "(2)" - one playfield, one backbox. However, the Goal also has "(2)", but is actually 3 - two on the playfield, one in the backbox.

Heh, good to hear! Honestly, that manual is horrible - there's so many obvious printing errors, I figure the tech writer was working his last day before retirement. ('Loop Magnet' and 'Lock Gate', anyone?)

You'll have to make a decal and put it on, the clear it. If you want to go this route, let me know, I have a good scan of that area that you can use for base art for printing.

No idea. I send it all off to someone for touchup and clear.

Yeah, my time's worth more doing other things, and my skills severely lack in that area, so for me it's the best route.

On another note - ever have one of those lunches that never ends?
billions.png
was really stressed at work, and decided to play a game. It's virtual, but fantastic when you want to blow a few minutes.
This game lasted at least 30 minutes, and that was just the first ball..! Got World Cup twice, and Final Draw 5 times. When this screenshot was taken, it was FINALLY player #2's turn, ball 1.

Yeah, at lunch and on the train commute is the only real time I play VP, if at all. It's nice playing games I used to play back in the 90's. The bad thing? Playing one and then going, "I really want this in my collection..!".

Check your ball jam opto. If it's dim or blocked, this will happen.

The game treats the switch like this -

If it's detected as being blocked (I.e. There's a ball on top of another in the trough exit) the software "gently" activates the eject coil, giving it more power every time. The intent is to get the balls to settle back down into the trough. Eventually though, the kick is strong enough to eject a ball into the shooter lane.

Likely you either have a flaky led or receiver on the trough boards (giving you intermittent switch triggers) or a bad diode on another switch, making the game think the opto's blocked.

Repunch it (*with a proper tool*), or replace it with a molex connector.

That, can't help you with. At least, not until this winter, when I get my game.

Keep the bad board - use it for practice.

No, unfortunately. It does technically use the reverse signal, but only to stop the ball faster (instead of letting it spin down).

If my memory's correct, they originally were going to have it spin the other direction, but was worried that it would send balls STDM.

Not a problem! And yes, we have LOTS of tourists here in the spring/summer. Clogs up our roads like h3ll.

Interesting. This must be a change in the newer ROM levels, then. My old game (on L-1, I believe, way back when) only spun one direction. I remember asking the WMS tech about it when they came to take readings on it. Good to know, then!

A good hands-on massage, using both hands. The more you do it, the better you become with it, until jsut a few fingerstrokes and it'd be as supple as a new plunger rubber.

..Goodnight everybody!

Honestly, I think it depends a lot on game speed, slope, and coil power.

I've seen games who's kickback lands the ball in the TV Scoop, while others end up hitting the Magna-Save target. Really varies. Though, in theory, if you adjust the screws holding on the metal guide, you can likely aim it down a little more.

Oh! I misread his post, sorry!

Though, i guess most of my post still stands, depending on the game and the metal guide. My favorite game was the one that made the TV shot for you, since I have so much trouble with that shot.

Heat is expected - more than NF as that's a WPC-95 game, however, it shouldn't burn you. Your board may just be old and need to be gone over.

For the Stryker shot, I believe there's a setting that allows the first Stryker shot to be awarded from the goal - after that, only direct shots to his hole award.

..And apparently I have Airplane! on the mind.. Oy.

Honestly, the magnet's not used enough for it to be a real problem. However, the magnet on your machine should already have a fuse on it, so this 'kit' is unneeded.

Cliffy Protector. Used to protect the edge of the wood on a cut (kickout, hole, etc..)

Strange question...
Anyone know who did the voice of the announcer in the game?

(I just played a VP game of WCS, and ended up with a score of 17billion. I was thinking of various ways to change gameplay.. )

Really! Wow!

No video mode. But you COULD be incompetent, too.. I couldn't say on that point.

That coil is a Power/Hold - to move it, the power coil (Sol #08) will fire, and then the hold coil (Sol #16) will hold it. I thought it had a spring, but don't see one listed in my manual, meaning that gravity may pull it down.

Okay -
First, coils cannot 'push', they can only pull - no matter which way current is applied.
It can be gravity - orientation of the *coil* dosen't matter - it's what's attached to the coil - i.e. If it's not binding at all, the weight of the diverter - the lower part - could be enough to cause it to 'fall' back closed (to the right, ball goes left).

If your coil is 'cooked' - then replace it and the coil sleeve - likely the sleeve is deformed and is not letting the diverter travel effortlessly.

In prototype games and early samples, there was a switch there - a gate the ball would trigger just before falling into the pop-bumpers. The switch was removed, but likely early ramps still had the holes drilled for it.

Yes, that should hold a post.

There's a few images in the 'Game Archive', here's one:
https://images.pinside.com/c/b8/cb8f0b95fe6f2d128ca29e12d89eb8f87f2a319f/resized/large/cb8f0b95fe6f2d128ca29e12d89eb8f87f2a319f.jpg

Check your coin door interface board, and then follow the wires back up to the backbox.

One thing I like about his game...
Even if you're having a *bad* game - you're STILL having a good game.

He said the magnet works, the switch don't.

So, remove the switch from the button. Test it. Test the wires running from the coin door board to the switch. Then test the wires runnign from the CPU to the coin door board. (If the coin door board is wired in-line.. it may not be..!) Work your way down - somewhere there's a break in the signal.

When you have one in-game, the light insert is lit - hit the button and the magnet activates 'catching' the ball. If the light's not lit, it won't do anything.

As for *usefulness*.. well.. I've never, ever used it.

Those are cracks around the edges of the inserts. It should be all white..

Holy crap, that looks slick!

Proto, or sample?

Some differences in Proto to Prod include -
4th Striker target between left ramp & TV scoop.
Outer loop right 2 switches.
Switch on right ramp on drop-thru to pop bumpers.
No aux flags on Boston & DC cities (Hurry up & extra ball)
Earth/World covering bottom of PF is less contrast (no green?)
"Ultra Goalie" lightening insert is "Ultra Ball"
Kickback inserts are numbered.
Large "GOAL" insert is green instead of yellow.

-Mike

Holy cheeze'n'crackers, look at the black around the bottom of the slingshots. Wow..

It's crazy - I've had my proto playfield so long now that everyone i see someone's shot of the right ramp, it looks 'wrong' to me..:

IMAG0019_(resized).jpg

I... I need a game, first.

Hehe. I plan on getting one that is a project - as long as ramps and mechanics are okay, the PF can be trashed. I'll be putting in my prototype playfield ('Ultra-Ball'!), so the condition of the PF won't matter. But I'm aiming for as cheap as I can go - no LEDs, no mods, no color DMD, yadda yadda. Since my money will be going into getting the proto PF dimpled, cleared and converted over into a workign game.

That's an operator/arcade inventory number tag.

In other words, it wasn't shipped form the factory like that, but at some point an owner had one made and screwed it in.

Depends... I mean, if you think it's interesting, keep it. Especailly if you cna find another game form the same owner/arcade with another one of those metal tags.

Nice! I particularly like the yellow wire habitail, but I'm not 100% on the yellow coin toss..

Wire Ramp. It's a lot easier to type, and in this game, there's only one.

Nice! You need a new battery board. *ahem* I have a few new ones.

Interesting the dirt pattern around the ball, as well. It's been spinning a LOT in its life.

Poll question for everyone -

Does your game have the "1", "2", "3" text on the kickback kicker? *IF SO*, does your game then have the switch cutouts (switches there or now - I'm merely referring to the cutouts/art in the playfield) for the switches in the travel loop over on the right-hand side?

Nice looking PF there!

It's what they decided to go with. Honestly, someone made the decision to try it, and they did.

It's on the coin door interface board. Nothing is needed on the switch itself.

Check schematics and other pins on the CDI - it sounds like a plug is off by one. Is your "Always Closed" always closed?

Okay - something is off by a pin.

The 'Always Closed' should be, well.. always closed, not the tilt. Since - going by memory here, I could be wrong - the tilt & other buttons connect in different plugs, the only one that houses ALL of them would be the plug heading back to the MPU. Double-check that one..

What are you trading for it? (And what are you going to do about the PF? )

May have to come over and play it. It's on my short-list to own..

Nope, nope - looking for one with a bad playfield, unrestored. Looking to install my Proto NOS playfield into the game.

It's been over a year since I've been up to your place - I think the TZ's likely the only one that's still there.

No - it's open.

Yup! There's a setting in the game that will let it use a kickback (permanently) or kickback and not use the stored kickback.

They're the same size, you're good to go. (You can also check by looking at the file size of the ROM. I.e. 512k is a 4Mb ROM, etc.

It's supposed to be red, AFAIK..

Yeah, no difference. Get a rubber on there before you nick up the balls something bed.

Turn phone on. Run camera app. Aim camera at emitters (white mounting bodies). If the LESs look white like they're on, or glowing (depending on phone camera), it's probably good.

Digikey - search "1N4001" or "1N4004".

No. A 4004 can support higher amperage than a 4001. However, the switch matrix uses extremely little amperage, so either one will work fine.

Light boards rarely go bad. The diode on them may have gone, but even that's unlikely. Do they work in test mode?

Bypass the diode - connect a jumper from one lead of the diode to the other. If you get any bright light, then the diode is bad. If you get dim, or glowing light, then the diode isn't the issue.