(Topic ID: 50131)

World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.


By DEWSHO

6 years ago



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#2113 3 years ago

I finally bought a WCS. Love it and my wife likes it even more. One problem I have encountered is that the soccer ball is spinning constantly. I do not think that is right?? Where do I start looking to solve this issue?
Thanks.

#2117 3 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

With the default settings on the machine, Goal is lit at the start of every ball, meaning, the ball will spin, and the goalie will move. When you score a goal, it will stop (except at certain times, explained below).
To re-light the Goal during normal play, you must either a) light the 4 red rollovers in the middle of the play field, b) get the ball in the kick hole by the goal, c)
When you enter multi-ball, Gloal will be lit again until you score. To re-light Goal in multi-ball, you must either get in the kick hole (just like in normal play), or go up either the left or right ramp.
There is an un-documented EASTER EGG in the machine as well, where if you are in multi-ball, and have scored, you can re-light the goal by pressing the Extra Ball button under the plunger. This only works once per multi-ball. (I bet a lot of you did not know about this!)
If you advance through all cities to Los Angeles, and get in the Final Draw (tv award) hole, you play Germany for the World Cup. At this point, Goal will be lit during the entire match. You can get all 5 balls going, as you like... Just keep shooting them out, and score as many goals as you can. At the end of the match, the flippers will stop, the balls will drain, and you will see your final score. Then, you return to normal play, and shoot one ball out, but goal will not be lit at this point. You must re-light it using one of the options above.
In the machine settings, you *can* turn off the option where goal is lit at the start of every ball, OR set it so that it is only lit for the *first* ball.
Hope this clarifies.
-Dana

Thanks for the explanation.
Once I shoot a goal the ball keeps an spinning and the goalie keeps on moving?

#2119 3 years ago

Yes it does. I am a darn good player

#2123 3 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

I agree... But it can also be started by the kick hole, multi ball, or world cup final. This is controlled by the software. But, I am wondering about the kick hole in front of the goal. What if that switch was stuck? If it was, the game would detect it as an error, and you would get a message when the machine is powered up. Switch tests would confirm. Else, I do not see how the goalie and ball could always be going. The only software options in the game are a) having it be on at the start of every ball, b) having it on at the start of the 1st ball only, or c) it's not on until you light it. Another possibility is that the game thinks it's in multi-ball all the time, but in that case, the game would detect that there is a ball missing, thinking there is a stuck ball somewhere.
When you DO score a goal, the game should yell some variant of "GOOOOOOAL!", and/or, "I what a shot! I can't believe it went in.", "This guy is unstoppable!", or one of a few other phrases. If it does not yell GOAL, then it may just think you got the ball in the Striker Award hole, because with a goal, the ball gets shot out through the habitrail anyway.
To test, just put the ball in TV Award at the beginning of the game, and enter Big Goal Round. If you put the ball in the goal, and get a Striker Award instead of the "B" for 15Million, then you will know it's the sensor in the goal.

No error message at start up. Yes every time I shoot a goal it says "GOOOOOOAL!", and/or, "I what a shot! I can't believe it went in.", "This guy is unstoppable!"
I will do some switch testing plus I received some other advice on how to test the ball rotation control board. Will report back on how it all went.
Thanks again guys!

#2126 3 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

Thinking there *could* be a bigger problem... Does the goalie and ball stop when the game is over? If so, then the logic board has control of he motors. If just ONE was still going, goalie or ball, then I would say it's an electrical glitch, but they ARE controlled seperately (i.e. 3rs tv award, "go for the goalie", or the penalty kick, where the goalie moves specified amounts, with no ball movement).
If it is a logic issue, you *might* consider just doing a factory reset.
Also, are you running the latest rom version? It should be "REV . LX-2", shown in the middle right of the display on startup.
These may not be your cause... Just throwing out anything I can think of. But it's curious that your ball AND goalie are both moving.
If you put the ball in the goal over and over, does it keep saying "GOAL" every time? If so, the it would appear that something is triggering the goal lighting, and since you have to trigger all 4 red rollovers, I doubt it's that, so I would be looking again at the kick hole in front of the goal.
-Dana

Dana,
Once the game is over the goalie stops moving but the ball keeps on spinning.
And yes if I manually keep on putting the ball in the goal it keeps on saying "Goal"!".
I have tested the motor control board and it seems to be in order. It has been suggested that it looks to be a power control board issue?
I am at a loss.

#2128 3 years ago

Have purchased new motor control board. Will have to see if that solves the problem.

#2130 3 years ago

This is how mine looks.

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#2141 3 years ago

Yes doing a full led swap makes a huge difference. I matched the plastics colour with led colour. Looks great! Will post picture tomorrow.
I do not think it needs any additional lighting as it is quite bright when compared to my other pins.

#2147 3 years ago
Quoted from dar8dar:

Game blades installed

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Nice!
Where did you get them from?

#2152 3 years ago
Quoted from aerobert:

Hi, can someone help me identify some plastics? I'm in the process of cleaning and replacing stuff. It's the one (or several?) plastics on the left side by the assist hole. It's quite damaged as you can see in my picture.
I can't find good pictures of how the parts look. Would appreciate part/ref numbers on them. Thanks!
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Edit: I suspect it's this big one complete under ramp plastic that runs on both sides?? Am I right?
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I can't believe you want to restore this machine. It looks like EVERYTHING needs replacing. It's going to be a money sink.

#2174 3 years ago

How is the magna save meant to work anyway? I am not sure if mine works or not. In solenoid test the magnet works but I am not sure if it does during play.

1 week later
#2198 3 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

One of my lighted flipper buttons blew out, and I decided to replace 3 leds on each side with blue, instead of the green that I had. While I was in there, I thought it might be fun to have the magna-save to be a lighted button as well, in red, and have it only lit when magna-save is lit. Here is a pic of the board mounted around the new, clear magna-save button. I do not have it connected to the main board, as of yet. Need to get some wire, and then I can wrap that up.

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Great idea! Did you use 6V or 12V to power it and where did you tap in for power?

#2202 3 years ago
Quoted from tomh52722:

I'm about to buy cliffy's for my wcs. Thinking about paying extra for carbon fiber. Any thoughts

I have been using CF a lot for my other hobbies and I do not think it is the best choice for pinball applications. While it had great tensile strength it handles abrasion very poorly. With the ball hitting the inside edge of the CF cliffy constantly it will wear in no time. Sure it will not warp or bend but it will show wear very soon. Not quite sure why Cliff is giving it a try as I am sure complaints will be coming in over time. Go for the meal ones. I have bought them myself. BTW Quite a big job to install them!!

#2203 3 years ago
Quoted from tomh52722:

I'm about to buy cliffy's for my wcs. Thinking about paying extra for carbon fiber. Any thoughts

I have been using CF a lot for my other hobbies and I do not think it is the best choice for pinball applications. While it had great tensile strength it handles abrasion very poorly. With the ball hitting the inside edge of the CF cliffy constantly it will wear in no time. Sure it will not warp or bend but it will show wear very soon. Not quite sure why Cliff is giving it a try as I am sure complaints will be coming in over time. Go for the meal ones. I have bought them myself. BTW Quite a big job to install them!!

1 week later
#2210 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinphila:

Hi, just got one of these. Are insert decals available? Anyone have scans. Need todo some decals

Never have seen them offered? Tried a search and nothing? Strange.

2 weeks later
#2248 3 years ago

I am installing cliffies and noticed an additional post hole. Can you guys have a look at your machine and let me know if there is supposed to be another post.

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#2251 3 years ago

Guys I have a couple of Header Plastics available. The ones that always break and are virtually impossible to replace.
Send me a pm if interested.
$20 including shipping.

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#2252 3 years ago

What do you guys think about my speaker screens? I made my own stencil and spray painted the screens as a soccer ball.

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#2254 3 years ago

Mine looks the same.

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#2261 3 years ago
Quoted from Jared:

I would love a copy of the stencil if there was a way you could send it via email and I could print and cut for use.

I used the image similar to the one below and printed it on vinyl sheet. Used a craft knife and cut out the white sections. I lifted the perspex cover sitting on top of the speaker screen and slid the stencil on top of the screen. For a good result the stencil must be totally flat on top of the screen. Masked it up with tape and gave it some short sprays of mat white. Do not spray at an angle but straight onto the stencil! Make sure the the soccer cross bars are cut nice and thick. Practice on some other black background before doing the final on the screens. Be careful when removing the stencil after spraying. Don't over spray but also don't use too little as you are trying to cover the back screen sections completely with white. Good luck.

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#2263 3 years ago

While we are at it. Here is another soccer ball mod I did for my ramp entry.
These are actual soccer balls used for table soccer.

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#2266 3 years ago
Quoted from aerobert:

@BioBa lol, thatsapenis.gif

Totally unintended but it sure looks like one LOL

#2267 3 years ago
Quoted from PinballBulbs:

I guess I'll need the size too. If someone gives me the size to cut soccer ball I'll cut them.
Had a few PMs. Shoot me a pm with your address if you want one too please. Not just "I want one "

The speaker cut out hole is 95 mm diameter. The stencil has to be a little larger to overlap. 99 mm.

A laser cutter is a great toy! I love to have one of those.

#2274 3 years ago
Quoted from PinballBulbs:

Another attempt

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Yes that is spot on. You cut out the white sections. And you only spray white onto those sections. That's how mine looked in the earlier picture.

#2278 3 years ago

Nice! I had not planed to do the other side too. Maybe a bit of soccer ball "overkill"?

#2279 3 years ago

Hey Pinballbulbs you are a legend making all those stencils for everybody. Good to see that kindness and good will is still out there!

#2280 3 years ago

Any idea where these two decorative posts are going??

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#2290 3 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

Spot Lights
I am thinking about spotlights. I have seen a kit where the add a post on the bottom right of the left slingshot, with 2 spotlights. I think this looks goofy, and stands out too much. I was thinking of something different.
I think some good locations for spot lights would be the following:
1) On top of the large metal spacer, holding up the right ramp, at the top of the right slingshot, and point the light towards the bottom of the left ramp. I would mount this so that it hangs down, to keep a lower profile.
2) On top of the large metal spacer, holding up the right ramp, near the top right of the playfield, where the rail connects to the same post, and point the light towards the goalie. I would have this one more on top, not hanging down.
3) On the top edge of the "Lock" plastic, pointing up the ramp, towards the top of the playfield. I would hang this one downward, to keep a low profile, and conceal it behind the lock area.
4) Same as above, but aiming the light more towards the center playfield.
5) Possibly on the back of the left ramp banner, concealed behind, aimed at the area in front of the goalie.
I would start by hooking up power to one light, and hold it in each area to see what the effect would be, and then decide on a color. I am thinking just a regular white GI bulb, but possibly green. This is just an idea, but it would not be very expensive, as you can get the socket/reflector with a 12" wire tail on PinballLife.com for only $3.50 per light here: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1542
I like a bright playfield, and the colors on this machine are fantastic, but there are a number of dark areas. I think this could really enhance the look, without any cutting. Just wondering if others have considered this, or tried it, and where others have placed the spotlights for the best effect.

Instead of adding all the socked hardware (which is not that attractive) I placed one of my 6V (yes 6V not 12V) light strips in the ball trough area. I used purple as it has a high UV component and gives you a glow in the dark effect. You could also use white for maximum brightness or any other colour. It lights up the center playfield very well and is nicely hidden underneath the apron. The strip is simply connected to any 6V GI socket underneath the playfield. The 6V strips are $8.50/m (60 led/m) plus $3.50 postage. PM me if you are interested.

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#2306 3 years ago
Quoted from mattmarr:

Damn, I don't check the owners thread for a few days and I miss out on a sweet speaker mod ? That's freaking awesome of you PinballBulbs for sending out the stencil and obviously BioBa, you are the Steve Jobs of soccer-themed pinball speaker mods. A true innovator. Also, MK6PIN, your lighting looks fantastic and I will be stealing that style ASAP and telling everyone that comes by that I am a savant at GI lighting and designed that exact pattern all on my own.
On a final note, is there any shot more satisfying than freaking nailing the Final Draw when you are about to face Germany for the World Cup Finals? Hit that one tonight after a bit of a hiatus from WCS while finishing the game room, many air high fives were thrown out as I played alone in my basement.

Wow nobody ever compared me with Steve Jobs but I like it! Next time I have to fill out what my occupation is I'm going to say:
Pinball Modding Legend

#2317 3 years ago
Quoted from sirlonzelot:

I am planing to create a ledboard in the floodlight decals and let them light over a flasher. I think this will turn out great.

That's a great idea! Show us your progress.

#2318 3 years ago
Quoted from aerobert:

Cleaning in progress. Notice the groove in the football. I guess the remains are everywhere in this machine. It looks terrible, but it's mainly just dirty. Rust in some places. This machine was played and enjoyed by many but never serviced.
But...progress is being made allthough slowly. Note that I'm not fully restoring it. I got it cheap. It will be thoroughly cleaned and polished and then played once again. New posts, new rubber, new goalie, new football, some new plastics and Led GI. The rest is cleaning.
Gues what part of the ramp I started cleaning. lol

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Wow that is FILTHY!!! I hope there are not too many other problems.

#2320 3 years ago
Quoted from aerobert:

Nothing that can't be fixed. Spent about three hours on this ramp alone.

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They look like new again! What sort if cleaning product did you use? I found that car headlight polish works well but you need to use a polishing machine for best results. Its only good for finishing off not for initial cleaning like you did.

#2334 3 years ago

Dana your machine looks super nice!! I followed your lead and also placed another GI lamp on the feft side in the front of the lock plastic.
Another little but quite effective mod I did was to replace the all white lamps of the light lock with coloured ones.
I left the lightning white.

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#2340 3 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

Thinking more about the soccer ball speaker grills... It would have been kinda cool if I could have taken another harwood board, drilled the same size hole, placed the grill over it, and used something like a bowling ball to stretch it into the hole, resulting in a domed speaker grill, looking more like an actual ball coming out of the machine. This would of course, need to be done before painting, as the existing paint would surely chip off in some places. Regardless, I am happy with the result, but this *could* have made it look even better.

That is an awesome idea!

#2341 3 years ago
Quoted from Gorgar123:

Just joined the club about a month ago and am really loving the game. Great theme, the call outs are funny and shooting goals is just plain fun, although I am constantly amazed at how good that goalie is.
It already had led's in the playfield when I got it, so all I have done so far is change out the back box bulbs to led's (cool white frosted mainly with a few purple and warm whites) and added the "WCS - Lighting Extras LED Kit" from Pinballbulbs. The kit was really easy to install and required no soldering as everything was plug and play. It comes with two led strips (for the top and bottom) and two double spotlight kits that mount on the slings. Plus, they threw a speaker grill template in the box as a bonus.
I am still playing around with aiming the spotlights for best effect, but I have to say that the kit has made a huge difference at getting rid of the dark areas just above the flippers and in the top left corner and really added a lot of visual pop to the game. I think it is one of the best bang for the buck mods I have bought.
Before

After

That made a huge difference. Looks really good.

#2360 3 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

any brave souls repair plastics by cutting spare pieces and fitting them in broken spots? my right gate ramp ticket sign has a chip missing. wondering if i could cut a piece of a spare plastic i have and filling in the chip. not sure how i would get the color to match at all, however.

The simple answer is: no
Will never look good. As a matter of fact it will look better as is than trying a cheap repair job. Just try to get a new plastic. www.pinball.center has quite a few.

#2376 3 years ago

Another little mod I did today. Blue scoop light for TV award and red scoop light for final draw. I added two new stand up light sockets and some coloured flex leds (simmilar to the white ones below) to shine inside the scoop.

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#2379 3 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

my drain trough, shooter lane kickout is a bit rough. doesn't always get the balls out. it goes into search mode for a bit, then a ball pops out. coil part # is correct and visual inspection was okay. is there a known issue or is this a little something with all mid-90s wpc's?

Common problem. Most likely you drain trough optos are dirty/damaged or the entire opto board is faulty. First remove the left and right ball trough opto boards. While still attached to power cables turn on power use your phone camera to see if all the UV leds are working. Turn off power. Second clean the lenses. Third inspect the board for any damage loose solder connections visually and with multi meter.
You can also test the ball trough optos in the test menu but you have to take out the boards anyway to check for damage. That's why I skipped that option.
Report back what you found.

#2386 3 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

i fingered out the start button.
how do you see if the trough opto leds are working? do they light up?

Already answered for you on post 2379. Mobile phone camera can see UV light.

#2404 3 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

are all the kickout hole plastics suppose to be purple? my assist hole cover is white.

Yes they all should be purple.

#2417 3 years ago

Great and proper instructions but you can save yourself a lot of time by just lifting the plexiglass and sliding the stencil on top of the speaker grill with everything installed. All you need to do then is mask the entire panel with tape for spraying. I masked everything and used a razor knife to cut along the speaker hole.

#2421 2 years ago
Quoted from sohchx:

Will do. I started reading from page one last week and am only on 23 as of now.

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#2425 2 years ago
Quoted from sohchx:

Almost done!! Last thing to do is the green stripes around the base

They look really good now with the paint job! Now I want a couple too.

#2428 2 years ago

Those flood lights on the back board look great being highlighted by the strip lights! Great idea - I'm going to copy that.
On your photo it really looks like they are lit up.
Last thing you might want to consider are mirror blades. Instead of mirror blades are there side panels available for this machine?

#2438 2 years ago

I really like those side plates! I think I have to get some too.

#2440 2 years ago
Quoted from sohchx:

I finally got time to print out a soccer ball shooter handle this weekend. I'm happy with it. What say you gents? Time to drill it out and paint it

Well done. Looks great. Shall we call you Mr. 3D from now on lol.

#2451 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyo5050:

Is the right ramp really hard to hit or am i just not very good at this game?

It is a relavely easy shot. I get it 6 -7 out of ten. Make sure you flipper is aligned correctly. If the flipper is aligned too high it becomes a very hard shot.

#2463 2 years ago

Are you thinking about a fabric mesh or very fine chicken wire mesh?

#2468 2 years ago

Very common. I had to replace mine too and not only on WCS94.

#2483 2 years ago

Yes orange goes really well with the game. Nut sure about the purple goal post sleeve. I like yellow.

#2485 2 years ago

Yes J-120 and J-121 are the GI molex plugs. Need some expert advise on how to continue on the testing procedure.

#2498 2 years ago

Nobody looks after us poor guys owning "B" titles. Wire ramps rarely break so not too many spare ones would have been made. How much did they quote re-chroming it? I would have thought replacing with NOS and re-chroming would be very similar price.

#2506 2 years ago

Often the ball trough gets worn with grooves forming inside that restrict ball movement. A cheap solution is: BALL TROUGH MAGNETIC JAM PROTECTOR
Available from pinbits.

1 week later
#2542 2 years ago

Yellow and black is a classical combo that looks really good on your machine.

#2550 2 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

Well... I had been thinking about doing my hamster cage in teal, ......"

What is the hamster cage?

#2587 2 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Heres my new pickup and what i accomplished tonight... i belie.

Never seen an original cabinet with such a bright yellow colour.

#2590 2 years ago
Quoted from sohchx:

Mine looks the same way. The cabinet art is mint.

Sorry to say his yellow is brighter. Yours does seem a bit faded (like mine still good but not as new) but maybe its just your camera.

#2600 2 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

should the striker light be red or orange?

Mine is red.

#2603 2 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

thanks. and the ramp gate lights, top to bottom, are red-yellow-yellow, right?

Yes but it makes sense to add a third colour. Also looks better.

#2604 2 years ago

I used red yellow green.

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#2606 2 years ago

But it is. Might look orange in the picture but it's actually red in real.

#2610 2 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

no doubt. i was commenting on my backwards order.

LOL

#2611 2 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

sorry, lazy this morning. didn't want to take the glass off.

How did you do it? Just brushed on acrylic paint?

1 month later
#2804 2 years ago

Check out my new topper! I came across this night light/ wall light on ebay. It goes perfectly with my soccer ball stencil speakers. It uses 3 x 1.5V batteries so I hooked it up to the machines 6V. It's fun to find new and interesting soccer ball themed items to add to the machine.

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#2808 2 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

Have you modified it to light with led strips from the GI circuits? It would also be fun to put led flashers (possibly green) in it for when there is a goal. Would be pretty easy to do, and you could have the wiring come out the back of the back box, as opposed to drilling any holes.

Hey that's a great idea! At the moment I am only using the original leds of the lamp. I have to check if any of the back board flashers go off during a goal. If yes it would be a super easy job. Will post a video once I am done.

#2813 2 years ago

I had a look and i got a Kitty on mine too? Very interesting! Would love to know the story behind this.

#2814 2 years ago

More soccer ball features. Framing the back box.

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#2819 2 years ago

I like to keep the soccer ball sticker printers in business!
Funny I actually do not like soccer as a sport lol - but I love this pinball.

#2829 2 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

OK... Seriously? You did this AFTER you told me that putting the soccer foosball mods by BOTH ramps was overkill

Hahaha you got me ! I admit it's an addiction lol.

Yes I'm waiting for some 12V led strips to arrive to hook them up to the back box flashers. I want a green flash light show everytime I shoot a goal.

#2833 2 years ago

Here is a video of the topper with a 20 cm long green 12V led strip as flasher installed. They are 5050 single green colour 12V led strips which you can find plenty of on ebay. I soldered the strip to one of the back box flashers. The 12V flashers have a black lamp holder and the 6V lamps have white lamp holders.

The white constantly on light is a 20 cm 6V 5050 led strip (which I sell) soldered to a 6V back box lamp.

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#2842 2 years ago
Quoted from taylor34:

Skill shot question...I can't hit the 3rd part of the skill shot, not enough umphf to get it there from the spring. New spring then I'm assuming, or is there something I might be missing here and that shot is supposed to be almost impossible? Thanks

Would like to know too.

#2861 2 years ago
Quoted from taylor34:

Skill shot question...I can't hit the 3rd part of the skill shot, not enough umphf to get it there from the spring. New spring then I'm assuming, or is there something I might be missing here and that shot is supposed to be almost impossible? Thanks

Discovered on mine that one of the metal arms was bend outwards preventing the ball to completely roll back close to the tip of the rod.

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#2864 2 years ago

Re. Riveting. I found that the easiest, most reliable and most economical method is used by Ray in his tech tips. Watch from minute 24 onwards. All you need is a pointy cone shaped punch and a flat punch. Available very cheap at any auto parts or tool shop. After struggling with all sort of specialised tools I could not believe how well this method worked and how good the final result looked.

#2866 2 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

Also... They have *never* recommended a flower border around the back box!

That soccer ball "flower" border is soooo 70's. Love and peace to all my sisters and brothers! ⚽

#2870 2 years ago

This vendor has lots of them in all sort of sizes at very good prices. I have bought from them and the rivets are good.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/301791692701

You don't want the truss head style but the rounded head.

#2874 2 years ago
Quoted from Kronlar:

I wasn't able to find a post that covered this specifically, but about 10 pages ago there was some discussion about nylon washers.
What do you guys think are the most useful sizes to buy? Most of what I've found are metric sizes on eBay. Would like a variety to handle plastic protection and also spacer duty where needed.
Any other better sources?
Thanks!

I actually make those . I use the 25 mm/1 inch for all sling shots and a mix of the 22 mm and 19 mm for most other applications. Best price and indestructible.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/38638

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#2881 2 years ago
Quoted from Pale_Purple:

Does anyone have LEDs in their game? If so what brand and are you using an OCD board too? Finally making the upgrade on my machine. My goalie is very loud, much louder than others I've seen on location. Going to get a new goalie motor and hope it fixes that.

Did not use the OCD board in mine. Really do not think it needs it. There is no significant differences in led brands. Much more important to get the right type. For all playfield applications shining through the cut outs go for flat top 5050 super bright leds in the corresponding colour. The best GI lamps are twin leds with serrated cap.
Back box again go for 5050 flat tops.
I used some colour leds on the white cut outs.

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#2887 2 years ago
Quoted from sohchx:

Got any pictures of your backbox with the 5050 FT's installed?

I used a combination of white, warm white and green. Warm white is great behind yellow or gold.

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#2888 2 years ago
Quoted from westofrome:

Installing the PinballBulbs kit in my WCS. The kit doesn't seem to have come with any GI/insert flashers. Is this to be expected or should these have been included? Do folks generally replace the incandescent flashers with LED?

Definitely. The difference is significant. I use 8 smd flashers on flex base. That way I can direct them where ever I want. Very important as many of them are mounted sideways.

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1 month later
#2939 2 years ago

I had a look and that black and grey/yellow connector is just sitting in my machine connected to nothing (like yours)!
My machine is running perfectly with no errors.
Maybe it is meant to be used when adding something like a shaker/working coin mechanism?

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#2943 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Looks like it's a 12v feed. Where under the playfield (in what area) is it located?
I ask because the proto games had an eddy sensor next to the soccer ball, and it would have needed power.

Towards the right front near the ball trough.

#2951 2 years ago
Quoted from aerobert:

I have bought a new header plastic. How do I take the striker sign (with the bulb) off and reattach it to the header plastic? The old header plastic was in three pieces.
Looks like its mounted with a rivet? How would one remove and reattach it to the new plastic without rivet tools? The signs metal base has still an old piece of the header plastic attached to it.

Honestly unless you are going to rivet on a regular basis don't go through the expense of setting yourself up for riveting just drill out the rivets and use some screws and nyloc nuts.

#2954 2 years ago
Quoted from westofrome:

The believe the drawback of using a pop rivet tool is that it punches a hole in the center of the rivet, so you lose that "factory" look, FWIW.

Plus pop rivets clamp down much too hard potentially damaging the plastic. You need to make sure to use larger washers with pop rivets and even then the plastic might crack. Rivets on pinballs are called semi tubular rivets and have very little clamping pressure.

Go to 17.20 for the easiest and cheapest way to install semi tubular rivets.


Done it many times and works better than anyrhything else.

1 week later
#2989 2 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

Got my order of various rubber and finally have a rubber tip for a new shooter rod I made. I had to remove the shooter assembly and hacksaw the mushroomed tip off. Then I used a new shooter rod and installed a soccer foosball and done.

I have been looking for a suitable soccer ball for a while. I found some Chinese ones but they are not quite high enough quality for me and the black colour tends to rub off. How is yours and where did you get it from? Are you going to put a layer of clear lacquer on top or is your paint good and strong?

2 months later
#3161 2 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

OK... You may or may not be interested in my illustrated mini-project, but here it is anyway.
I have made a PinTopper for my WCS, complete with interactive lighting. (others have done something similar)
I bought Soccer Ball wall night light from Target.com for under $20. I had some 6V white led strip left over from lighting my field lights and drain hole that I got from BioBa, who I also consulted on this mod. He pointed me to ebay for some 12V led strips that I got in both red and green (lot's left over if anyone is interested).

I opened up the soccer ball, removing the 4 screws at the bottom, and as you can see, there is not much there.

Then, I removed the 2 screws for the switch, which I moved to the center, under the originial lighting board. The opening for the switch will be used for my own wiring harness to the machine. I then stuck 2 segments of 3 white, lights (for GI), then 4 segments of 3 green around the perimeter, and then finally, a 4 more segments of 3 red inside of that.

Next comes the wiring. I kind of did a daisy chain in brown wire for the common ground (I should have used the white... oops).

Then I used white wire for the hot (should have used brown), for the outer green, inner red, and center white.

Then, I used 3' trailer wiring extension cord, which I cut the one end off about 6" from the end (with the exposed hot wires under the jacket), and attached that to the main unit, so it goes out where the switch was.

Re-assembling it, you can see the short end of the cord coming out through the hole where the switch was, along with the other, long end, of the cord, which will attach to the machine. The common (exposed pin) for ground, which is the white wire. The brown wire is for the white, 6V GI, the yellow wire is the 12V red, and finally the green wire for the 12V green.

Looks great when lit!

Again, the ball will be white with the GI, but flash red for goal, and flash green for other features (not yet decided). Connecting the harness will be easy, going in through the back vent, and attaching to back box lights, because they are simple punch down connectors. Stupid simple!
Except for re-locating the original switch, the original electronics are intact, and I could easily put it back to original... Did not need to do this... I also considered using the original circuit for GI instead of the white strips... I may still do this if the strips are too bright.
Once I had the parts, building this took no more than an hour, total, and has a total cost of about $40, except that I already had the harness in the garage, and had the white left over. I would be happy to sell some green and red led to anyone who want's to do this, and it would cost you a lot less... Probably more like $30 total.
When I get it attached to the machine, I will probably put a short video on YouTube, so you can see what it looks like during game play.
UPDATE:
Got the topper installed, but had to change my wiring. The 12V DC had the polarity wrong, so I now have white for ground and brown for hot, after some changes in the wiring. Also, I learned that the GI is 6.5V AC (not DC), so I cannot use the common ground. I had to add a 5th wire. Right now, it's just a single strand, but I will be replacing my 4 pin harness with a 5 pin version when the cable arrives.
I did do a quick, and pretty crappy video, which is available here:
» YouTube video
Next project: Powder coating habitrail and cointoss in dark yellow (to match the yellow on the sides)

Looks great! Thanks for giving all the detailed instructions.

#3162 2 years ago

I just installed my home made soccer ball plunger. Most of the plungers I have seen have very small and flimsy soccer balks attached. The biggest problem is that the paint of most of these plungers comes of after heavy use. This soccer ball is heavy duty and epoxy clear coated.

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#3167 2 years ago
Quoted from dleasman:

That thing is GINORMOUS! Looks good though.

Thanks. I am still curious how you did yours? Did you do a similar arrangement with the led strips?
I just got my 5 pin harness in the mail yesterday, so I need to switch it out. Again, I am having to go from 4 to 5 wires, because the 6.5V GI does not share a common ground with the 12V flashers.
It sure does add a lot while your are playing the game though... The red and green flashes are super bright!

I did mine like a dome. With two strips crossing over at the top inside the topper soccer ball.

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