Hello, I'm now a proud owner of a WCS. The ball in my game looks pretty dingy and doesn't spin without having a vibration so I'm gonna have to look into that as well.

I was about to hit the buy button on a new ball but thought I should ask here first.

Is there a consensus as to which replacement soccer ball is better?

Bay Area Amusements "Slightly off white" one or the one Marco is selling?

Marco
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/23-6709
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BAA
http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=BAA&Product_Code=GS-WCS23-6709
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I'd like whatever one that interacts with the pinball most. If they interact about the same then I will get the brighter one then look for some sort of rubbery, grippy hair band to put around the base to give the game more ball action like I read from a member in another post.

Just about anybody with access to a welder could take care of that for you. Try yellowpages.com and look around for a welder that wants to weld this small bracket back up for you would be my best suggestion. Be specific over the phone if its a place you will have to travel far.

Hello, I would like to add a light that comes on whenever a goal is made.

I'd like to tie it into the goal flasher bulb so I use its logic for when to turn it ON/OFF and how long I want it ON for. Problem is my light is 6 volts and the flasher is higher.

Does anybody know of 6 volt input that would work for me that comes on when a goal is made and turns off after 10 seconds or so? Like are those smaller flashers 6 volts and or goal activated?

Probably not so does anyone know of an affordable easy way to run my 6 volt LED strip off the logic controlling the higher voltage "GOAL" flasher? I know I could probably wire up a relay of some sorts but seems like a lot of work for the outcome.

I don't mind if the factory flasher has to go in order to step the voltage down to 6 volts if theres a way to do that. They don't sell this light in anything higher then 6V or else I'd do that.

Thanks

The gold was on the legs, leg bolts, wire form/habit trail, coin toss assembly housing and a small piece on the right side of the shooter trough but not the lock down bar or rails. I also noticed that a handful of hex head screws/ bolts used on the ramps are gold colored.

I like the look and think you should have those parts plated in brass................ or in real gold (like Lexus car emblems/badges) if you want a one of a kind. Freshly plated parts will look right at home on a non-faded cabinet with bright yellows and golds because all the added gold color is used to emulate the gold World Cup trophy.

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The Dead Flip Podcast episode #3 goes into detail on how to score BIG on WCS94. Their never loose strategy against Germany is fool proof.

The segment starts at 34:00 and runs until the end.

WCS94 Podcast link-
http://www.deadflip.com/podcast/2015/3/31/dead-flip-podcast-episode-3




.

And here's their WCS94 YouTube playlist link with hours and hours of multi-cam play footage.

Did I blow a transistor?

I was swapping out a bulb in the lock lamp socket and the socket leads shorted out and now I lost all the lighting on the left side of the playfield. I checked all the fuses and connections and changed the U 20 chip and it still didn't fix the issue. I posted a pic of my playfield so you can see all the lights that are out and the matrix sheet.

Thanks for the help.

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