He Scores!! Just got myself a WCS94. Traded a Stern World Poker Tour for it. Thrilled to add this to the collection.

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Thanks a lot. We're both happy with the trade. That's the beauty of everyone enjoying different games for different reasons.

Now my collection is very Bally Williams heavy... The Stern WPT got traded for the WCS94 and the Data East Lethal Weapon 3 got traded for the Bride of Pinbot.

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Can someone tell me which bolt is the correct one to use on the front of the cabinet, near the top edge, that is part of what secures the lockdown bar receiver in place? One of mine is missing and I'm looking to replace it. These are the ones that are just a plain, black head, carriage bolt I assume, with a nut on the inside. Not unique to WCS or Bally for that matter. I don't need it to be 100% original, Home Depot would be fine. Just trying to see what the size or dimensions are for it. Thanks.

It is right above the start button, left hand side. Looks to be one of three that hold the lockdown bar receiver in place. They also look to be the same as the ones holding the coin door assembly to the cabinet.

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Is this right? I mean, what was the ball intended to do… help or hinder? Mine spins counter clockwise and it will whip it down towards the flippers and out pretty quickly. Definitely keeps you on your toes. If it’s just a matter of swapping the two leads, that’s pretty simple.

A = Attract... for Attract Mode and whether the sound and or music comes on while the game is on and not being played.

Yes, plunger should have a spring to pull it back once the power to the coil is removed. There is no spring shown in the manual though. I think it was an oversight / mistake as it needs one.

The rest position should be for the diverter arm to be on the left (letting the ball go up and over to the right and around the big loop back to the right flipper). When the coil is energized, the diverter arm pivots to the right, allowing the ball to go to the left and then back down to the lock area.

There is also a nylon spacer needed on top of the plastic for that diverter arm. It basically helps keep it in position and centered. The nylon spacer gets held in place with an E-clip and washer against the plastic. I was just reading about that in this thread as my game is new to me and I was looking to see if my own diverter arm was set up correctly.

Here's a pic of my assembly underneath.

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Here's what that post looks like on my game.

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The plastic spacer is called a #8 spool, 03-8371 Here: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8371

The post is "probably" this: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4425-2

That's in the manual on the posts page 2-39. It seems like it is 02-4425-2, but I'm not 100% certain on the dimensions. Maybe someone else can confirm for us?

I would recommend taking both these plastics out of the game entirely and then drill out those rivets carefully on your work bench. You can do this by way of the quick connector underneath the playfield for that Strkyer light bulb. It is this one I'm trying to hold out in the photo. Just those two wires as this one is dedicated for just that bulb. Disconnect it and then carefully feed the wires back up through the hole in the playfield and then lift it all out together. Make note of exactly how the wires were routed so you know how to put it back like it was. Then go at those rivets with a drill and new, sharp bit. Titanium bits are best.

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If you haven't already done so, pull the playfield up and out and have a look at that switch from underneath. Might be something obvious that came loose, like one of the screws holding the switch in place.

While watching underneath, use your finger to push down on the wire from above and see what it does. Where is the gap? Why isn't it engaging correctly?

If it worked previously, it might be something else than the wire isn't in the right shape. As mentioned, look at the other outlane to compare geometries. Post pictures here if you want opinions.

For bending, at the very least you need to secure the end of the wire you aren't bending so that the force you need to apply isn't twisting the base of the switch, only the wire. You can use pliers or put it in a vice or use your fingers if you like. Just use two hands... one for pushing on the end of the wire and the other for holding the opposite end of that same wire so the force doesn't snap the fragile portions. Those wires can handle being bent back and forth some, the plastic or small clip that holds the wire to the base cannot.

Anyone happen to know how many GI bulbs are on or under the playfield? Looking to do my entire game and need to buy the bulbs. Wasn't sure how many GI bulbs to get (of each base, wedge and bayonet).

The backbox I have done already and the manual lists all the insert lamps. Just looking to know about the GI bulbs. A location map would be great, but just the number of each would be fine too.

Ministry shows that plastic piece in stock: https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/world-cup-soccer-94-plastic-31-1925-21-sp.html

How far back was this goal photo you’ve referenced? I don’t see it.

Got thinking of another reason why there could be interference with the top of the goal and the top of the goalie’s head, and that would be if the back of the goal assembly and bracket isn’t secured down all the way. If the back was sticking up a little too far it would point the front down a little too far and cause interference. Possibly. Just a thought.

My WCS has that sticker also... and oddly enough, my Theatre of Magic has a very similar sticker. Same designer and similar era.

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I have cool white frosted dome bulbs in those three spots on the backboard. I thought they were too bright like that and so I put over them some of the old school rubber domes. Red, yellow and green. I suppose you could do the order of those bulb colours to match certain country flag colours if you wanted to. That might be a cool way to show off who your allegiance is to. Like earlier mentioned about using red, white and blue. Or red, white, red for Canadians

Question about the roll over targets on WCS... I had one of mine pop out and I'm not sure what it is that keeps them in normally.

I think I must have bumped it when wiping the playfield and then when I had it raised it got a little off centre and stuck up slightly. I guess I hit it with the ball during play and it got into the goal net, then into the Striker VUK and then launched up and nestled behind the pop bumpers before I realized what was going on and shut the game off.

It fits back into the hole fine and the game still plays like it did. The other three targets all feel snug though but this fourth one does not. I see there is a slight ridge on the stem of the target and I assume it is meant to clip down under the lip of the target mount piece under the playfield. It seems like maybe the hole in my target in that spot might have gotten enlarged over time and so it's now too big to grab that ridge of the target stem and keep it there.

Is this a thing? Where over time those holes can get bigger? And big enough to now be sloppy and let the target come out when it shouldn't?

Can you buy these roll over targets to replace originals? Either the entire assembly or just the individual components?

Thanks.

Right on. All four of mine when they are sitting at rest are high enough above the surface of the playfield to cause the ball to slightly change course. Only when the ball is going slow though. No change when you hit from the flippers to the goal.

What’s the correct amount of target to be above the edge of the playfield? Don’t they have to be at least a tiny bit higher so that the ball rolls over them and pushes down to trigger the switch? Or are they mean to be perfectly flat with the playfield and then when the ball’s weight is over the target briefly, they are so perfectly adjusted that this slight movement down triggers the switch?

I see how you could adjust the rest height of the switch using the spring tab piece of the leaf switch and then that is set to be very close to the actual contact tab which also has its own spring tab under it to push it back up after getting pushed down.

Anyone got zoomed in photos of their switches? Above and below the playfield?

Wow! That's nuts! Looks incredible. And the brand new looking, shiny saucer brackets. Amazing attention to detail.

Is this the same guy that did the restoration of a Terminator 2 not long ago? I remember seeing a YouTube video on it and a thread in some other forum.

Don't know what it means, but that Jackpot one being yellow I'd imagine is easier to see / notice when it's lit. The regular red one in that spot I find blends in too closely to the other red / amber lights nearby (rollover button and extra ball).

Where can an LED ColorDMD be bought nowadays? No one seems to have any stock. I'm also looking to get a colour display for my Theatre of Magic.

Nice timing. Recently too I think as I could have sworn I checked there not long ago and they had none.

I see the differences in the sizes from the regular one to the jumbo (Baywatch) and slim (Checkpoint), although I'm not sure what the difference is between what is called LED and LCD? I have a PIN2DMD display in one of my games, but don't want another one of those.

Answered my own question.

https://www.colordmd.com/lcdvsled.html

That piece goes beside the soccer ball, attached to the left edge of the ramp. I think it acts as a protector in case the ball ever got close enough to rub right on the plastic, or an errant pinball found it’s way in there.

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Any chance the new soccer ball is slightly larger than the original and it is rubbing on something? Like the ramp to the right?

If you have them both removed, you could compare the two against each other to see if there is some kind of difference.

Is there anything underneath, with the motor, that looks to be loose? Perhaps when the ball hits it, it's taking some of the momentum out of the motor spinning and takes a moment to catch back up? Check the electrical connections too, at the motor where they are soldered on as well as the connector that plugs into the board.

WCS is a good example of a game you can really enjoy without loving the real life version. Soccer is very far down on my list of things to watch or follow yet I like the pinball machine a lot.

No, but it sounds like it has to be an alignment or interference issue. Some more detail on how it comes up, what it may or may not be coming into contact with that it shouldn't be, and where it eventually comes off the wireform would be helpful in order to help you figure it out.

What's the A title list at nowadays? ipdb top 10?

If you are getting a WCS, I would recommend going over all of the plastics and making note of any that are already cracked. Hopefully not many. The game is murderous on plastics because of how much the spinning soccer ball whips the pinball around at times. Definitely recommend you take a close look at how tight the nuts on top of the plastics are (i.e. don't have them so tight, you want there to be a small amount of room to move if/when the ball whacks them). If they don't already have the clear, plastic washers under the key areas, get some and put them in BEFORE they start breaking. One of the first ones to go will be the little leg that extends down from the left ramp base and it covers the "hard tackle" switch. This spot gets clobbered all the time from errant balls coming off the soccer ball.

That does look good! I like the purple effect for the kick-out holes. Did you change the plastic out underneath each of those to something other than red? Or is it just a purple bulb doing that?

Nice! Thanks for the link. I did not realize they were meant to be violet. And it says so right in the manual, lol. D'oh!

My game came to me with similar lighting mods. The star posts for the slingshots and the ring lights in the pop bumpers. I did have a trough LED strip mounted, but I removed it as I didn't like the way it glared off the DMD.

It's definitely a great game with a unique combo of colours not seen in many other titles (teal and violet primarily).

It's hard to photograph well and do it justice... like every other pinball machine as we all know!

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Could someone share the dimensions or photos of these? I'd like to see how those compare to the ones in my own games.

Could someone enlighten me as to where this plastic goes?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1925A-3

It's a clear piece and meant as a protector presumably. The arc is basically exactly the shape as the spinning soccer ball. I just can't figure out where or how it goes in the game.

Like gets included in the set, but doesn't actually get used anywhere?

Nice, lol. There's one just like that for Funhouse.

That's a great list. And most everything on it would be reasonably straight forward to fix or correct if you found it less than satisfactory.

I feel like with how much money all of us are spending on these games, a seller can be expected to give you ample information to make a good decision. And if you're coming from a ways away, then they can do some additional testing or provide photos or videos to make sure no one is wasting their time.

With that in mind, and if in your position, I would ask the seller for a short gameplay video. You should be able to see things like the goalie moving side to side and the soccer ball spinning. You can ask them to go into the settings menu and put the game on "All Lamps" test and then pan the camera around to show that all bulbs are working (or reveal which ones are not).

WCS is a game that seems prone to plastics breaking. Chalk that up to the soccer ball whipping the pinball around and smacking into things it isn't always intended to hit. Plastic sets can be purchased as can ramps, but good to know whether you are starting with ones in pristine condition or whether they are already cracked and chipped.

Ramp set here at $387 USD for reference: https://www.starship-fantasy.com/ramps/World-Cup-Soccer-2-ramp-set

If the soccer ball spins opposite to what it is meant to, then desoldering the two wires and reconnecting to the opposite lugs it was initially on is all that it will take to make it right. Easy fix if the ball is already spinning. If it doesn't spin at all then that's something else.

Of your list, my money is on playfield condition for what matters most. As you pointed out, check those saucers and scoop for damage. It's common on WCS for those to get worn down. Super thin stainless steel protector sets can be bought and installed to ensure any wear present doesn't get any worse. It is a ton of work to take enough of the topside of the game off to get the access needed to install them properly, but it is doable. Protector sets are around $50.

Check also for the usual playfield wear you might see on any game. Inserts that have been raised or lowered slightly get rubbed with the ball and over time will wear away the art work and wood. Check for anything else on the playfield like gashes or scratches. Playfield damage is, in my opinion, one of the harder things to work on and repair. Replacing mechanisms or rebuilding flippers I find is all pretty easy compared to playfield repairs.

I would also add to your list to check closely the condition of the circuit boards in the backbox. Check the main CPU one for any signs of battery damage (leaking batteries that is). Are there batteries still on it or has it been changed over to the NVRAM piece that eliminates the need for batteries? You can see if the boards are the originals or not by looking closely at the serial number stickers that came on them on day one. Having the original board set is not as big of an issue like it might be with buying an old car with "matching numbers" but at least check to see there aren't hacked up areas or brown and burnt looking connectors. Your check of the GI strings alluded to that.

Check also the cabinet for any water damage or similar. If it got soaked, you might see that on the bottom or the back. Good to at least know and easy enough to spot previous damage like that.

Translites can get scratched up and then you'll be able to see through those scratches when it is all lit up. A photo from behind the translite will do pretty well in telling you what condition it is in.

The divertor arm can be out of adjustment and often is simply because some sort of centering flange or part is now missing. Or the little connector and spring at the bottom of that rod where it meets the coil plunger isn't correct. Easy enough to fix, but definitely nice knowing it's good on day one.

Similar with the coin toss plunge. If it doesn't make it all the way through, it's likely just the wrong strength spring. Super easy to correct if you get it open and see it's not correct.

That's all that comes to mind. Post pics when you find one you are considering and we can help you look it over.

That doesn’t sound like an attract mode feature to me. Things stuck on like that tend to be transistors on the power driver board that got fried and are stuck on. I don’t have the manual in front of me either right now but I would think you need to do some continuity testing and see what board component has failed.

What's the recommended type of grease or lubricating oil to use on mechanical linkages like the saucer eject arms? Mine aren't rotating very smoothly and I thought I would remove them, clean them up and then apply a little lubricant before reinstalling them. Just wondering what we're supposed to use (or not use). Thanks.

Having the seller comment here in the forum pretty much rules out about 99% of the uncertainty with the game.

Great title for sure. And as a first pin? Yea, super choice. Fun for a huge variety. And you don’t need to be a big fan of soccer in real life. I’ll just put that out there now.

The metal bracket goes on the left edge of the right ramp, to stay between the plastic of the ramp and the spinning edge of the soccer ball.

The plastic goes on the lower right pop bumper cap, with the pointy end going up to be over the upper right pop bumper.

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I use an open ended wrench for tightening my flipper linkages. 3/8" and one with a long enough handle that you can get a good firm grip. No fun having your hand fly off and crash/slice into nearby sharp metal things.

You have the playfield fully raised when you're doing this, right?

Do you have a modern set of flipper linkages? Rebuild kits nowadays have the ends in them that are meant for a wrench. Old ones or other barnds needed a particular six-sided bit on the end of a socket to tighten or loosen. Comeplete PITA those ones.

For figuring out your GI string that is out, I would test for power going back to the connector on the boards if needed. Find out where it is last present. I would imagine it is still coming out of the board and the problem is the connector and/or the pins and whether they are making good contact.

My game has the same hole in coin toss, lol. Yea, it's ugly. I put a washer and bolt over it for the time being.

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Holy cow, you ain't kidding! Just had mine all apart to do rings and post sleeves and put hole protectors in. All back together now and added a colour display. Love this game!

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Does pressing the start button make any sounds? Maybe it got flipped back over to coins and not free play. Give yourself a few credits by pressing the coin switches and see if it lets you start a game.

Curious if the game designers did intend on the assist shot to be forceful enough to hit the back of the goal hard like that? Certainly not just dribbling over the line, but not sure it is ever going to bang the back of the goal either. Would be interested in knowing how other games play and what the norm is? Maybe the norm now isn't what the norm used to be? I found my game was pretty filthy right where that linkage rotates. The bracket mounted to the underside of the playfield that is. I think over time someone had used a lube or grease of some kind and it attracted the metal dust and whatnot and got grimy. I cleaned it all off and it worked better on my game after that. Still no slamming the ball home, but it scores reliably when I hit it as well as when the game does it for you during multiball.

What are the differences in protectors that make some come up off the playfield and others stay flat? I assume you’re talking about the front edges that need to be stuck down with the adhesive backing? I find these types don’t stay down on any of the games I’ve installed them on either.

If your saucer hole protector leading edges are coming up a little, you can use a piece of Mylar to keep them down. Try a portion of a pop bumper disc as the radius is a pretty good starting point to match the saucer hole and protector. You don't need to use the entire 360 degrees worth. Just enough to stick to the protector and the playfield. Use it like a piece of Scotch tape on a cheap birthday card from the dollar store when the flap won't stay down, lol.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/66-MFC

Yes, those alignment holes in the playfield at the flippers are meant for that. One method I have seen others mention is using a small peg or post or toothpick even to insert into the hole and then let the flipper come down to rest on the alignment peg. So those holes are below the flipper. And do this with the flipper rubber installed. Remove the peg when you're finished.

If you just use them visually, I tend to align things so that when you look straight down on them from above, you can see only the hole and not any small bit of playfield between the hole and the back of the flipper. That's the idea anyway.

You can also adjust them more to how you like them and how the shots feel on your game. Flatter at rest lets you hit outside shots easier and more upright at rest lets you hit inside shots more easily. If you adjust them far enough upright, you'll start to be able to hit ramps with a backhand from the flipper on the same side as the ramp (or orbit). I don't care for games set up like this. I don't think it's how the designer intended it to be.

You can also look to keep the flippers in a straight line with the inlane guides. And you can obviously adjust both flippers individually, so getting them both at rest and while flipped to the same height is a consideration. One thing that will definitely affect that is having the correct parts on both sides, including the rubber grommet in the backend of the flipper bracket. This grommet is what will dictate how many degrees rotation that flipper has. So lower at rest also menas lower flipped up, so how well you can cradle the ball is affected.

1.) Good point. You definitely are doing this with the playfield up and not through the coin door. I rarely have a helper so it's just me and one pair of hands to hold or adjust things. What I normally do is get everything replaced (coil sleeve, coil stop, linkage and plunger, etc.) with the playfield up and resting all the way back (against the backbox). I then slip the flipper bat back in and tighten it just enough so it stays, but you can still rotate it with your hand. I put the playfield back down and move the flipper to where it needs to be. Once I'm happy with that, I tighten it further from underneath. If it isn't where I want it, I loosen, adjust and retighten. Once you get the flipper even slightly tightened, you take out the gravity effect.

2.) I tighten with the rubber on, but I suppose you could do it with the rubber off. That would mean your flippers would lie flatter at rest by a small amount. Then you put the rubber on and see how it is. If you think they are too low, then redo them. It is more of a feel adjustment to how you like to play as far as I'm concerned. The alignment dots are there as a guide or starting point. Sure, they can be thought of as a specific, exact place for the flippers to be, but the reality is that pinball machines are all going to vary in how they are set-up or how they play. They are very predictable in some ways and completely unpredictable in others. If you are a golfer, it's more like how the ball lies out on the course than how you set it down perfectly on a flat spot on the driving range. Same goes for the odd saucer reject or ball coming back around an orbit. It's consistent "most" of the time just not all of the time.

Time for a flipper rebuild kit. Linkage, plunger, coil sleeve and coil stop. It's probably getting magnetically stuck at the coil stop.

Your ramp has a chunk missing from it too. Front right. There is a metal ramp protector that often would be there to try and prevent the plastic corner of the ramp from getting whacked.

Ministry of Pinball in the UK shows that part as in stock.

https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/world-cup-soccer-94-plastic-31-1925-37-sp.html

I have a grippy ball on my game too. And it for sure whips the pinball around pretty crazy at times. And it puts English on the ball big time, lol. Not always, but sometimes I swear the pinball is still spinning weirdly when it comes to rest in the assist saucer after getting shot over there by the soccer ball. And then when it ejects, it comes out at very weird angles. Swear that grippy soccer balls makes the game play like it has Gremlins inside it.

First thing I would do is measure the voltage at the holder. Put the game into ALL LAMPS via the test menu. Then lift the playfield up and remove the black plastic bulb holder. Carefully measure the DC voltage across the two sides of the hole in that little lamp circuit board. If you don't get any there, move back slightly and test the voltage on the two pins on the circuit board. If nothing there, disconnect the connector and measure it on the ends of that connector. Start there and report back what you find.

Looking back at my notes, there are 30 playfield GI bulbs, 36 backbox GI bulbs and 3 bulbs in the backboard. As mentioned, all are wedge base 555's. I went with cool (natural) white everywhere with the exception of the ramp signs and the backboard bulbs. I was in the habit of colour matching my inserts and then switched to using cool white under those as well as I felt like it brought out truer colours that way. My game also has lit star posts on the slingshots, which came to me that way. Those star posts were clear and I changed them back to teal and between that and the proper teal pop bumper caps, I think the light coming through looks terrific.

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Actually, to build on this, could one of you post a photo showing the various wiring connections on the back of those switches? There are two right? One for the power interlock and one for the memory or something like that. I think mine are a little backwards because I have a Theatre of Magic right beside it and that little yellow tool you use to keep the plunger in while working seems to work fine on my ToM but it doesn’t on WCS. Like the switches are reversed somehow. Thanks.

SPECIAL:

Advancing to Rank #1 (in multiball) lights the special. Special awards a credit, or 100 million points when a credit is not available.

Could be from the back of the goalie. That front goalie plastic is held on with two screws going through the plastic and through the leaf switches. With a nut on the far end of each of those screws. That might be one of those.

On our WCS's... the "Final Match Goal Champ" record that will display during attract mode... is that an accumulating total? I mean during one great game, if you get to the Final Match more than once, is it supposed to keep a tally of all your goals and not just the highest number of goals from a single Final Match?

I had one heckuva game earlier today and got to the Final Match twice. I won it the first time with 7 goals, but then lost it the second time scoring only 4 goals and yet I noticed it changed the Final Match Goal Champ to 11 goals.

I had not realized it worked that way. Same for the rest of you? Does it matter what revision of the code you're on?

For me, it seems like any game I own becomes too easy over time. Chalk that up to getting it all working correctly and dialed in, knowing all the rules and then putting a lot of hours on it. Sure, I consider myself a fairly good player, but any game you play enough that's set-up well is going to feel too easy eventually.

I have been putting my games on EXTRA HARD in the preset settings. It's part of the Utility menu. It will change most of those settings so that timers are shorter and things you have to earn have no memory from ball to ball, so you have to start over after you drain.

Most games have outlane posts that you can move between three positions, easy, medium and hard. It will basically change the size of the outlane gap for the ball to drain. Those aren't that applicable on WCS, IIRC. You can also adjust the plumb bob tilt thing so it tilts quicker with less movement.

What I don't think is right is where people remove rubber rings on posts to make the game play harder. That's not how I feel the designers meant for things to be changed. It's just mean when I see it like that, lol.

There are tournament modes on the games though and usually that makes sure any random awards are not really random anymore and they get awarded in the same order so it is fair to all players. You can also turn off extra balls in the game menu and that is usually done for tournaments.

I believe the playfield GI is around 30 bulbs. Most if not all are round base. 31 wedge base bulbs in the backbox and 3 wedge base bulbs on the backboard, just above the playfield. 3 more wedge base bulbs for the pop bumpers, coin door bulbs for the coin slots (usually 2), one for each of the start and add-a-ball buttons. Plus all the insert ones shown in the manual.

Those bulbs on top of the ramps should come on in the all lamps test. They are regular bulbs not flashers. Check that the tabs inside the sockets are making good contact with the little wires on the bulbs. You can use a screw driver to pinch those socket tabs closer together or use your fingernail to fan out the bulb wires a little bit. Pretty common issue with LEDs not always making good contact when first installed.

Not common on my game. Would think something is awry. Maybe look to see if there’s a little piece of plastic that broke off and is loose and sitting up there.

Confirm that your new replacement battery wasn't already (almost) dead to begin with.

Pictures would help.

I'm removing the Cliffy saucer hole protectors on my game because they just won't lay flat and wondered what the best thing is to use to get the rest of the adhesive off the playfield around those holes?

It's a lot of things to remove, but as mentioned, it's straight forward enough. I also try and be pretty specific in keeping nuts and washers and spacers together with exactly the piece it came from. Sometimes even altering how a single washer might have been under a plastic instead of over it can affect the ball and cause hangups.

Go slow and be patient. Never force anything. If you have to really put some oomph behind getting something out, then you are probably not realizing another clip or fastener still needs to be removed. There is an order to things, but you don't really have to have it all listed and understood in advance. Just look, loosen and wiggle until you know you have the next piece free and ready to come out.

Pay attention to which sections have their own mini wiring harnesses as those will need to be disconnected underneath the playfield to allow you to pull them out. Make note of which hole those wires feed down into and how they are routed. You'll need to reverse things and put it back in the way it came out when you're ready. You will not need to desolder anything to get it out. Those wires and lights and switches were all given those quick connects for this reason. About the only exception I can think of is if you are doing pop bumper rebuilds, those wires that go to the bulbs in the middle have to be cut or desoldered. No quick connects with those unfortunately.

Some notes about WCS specifically, you'll need to remove the diverter arm from that top left position as it protrudes through each layer of plastic ramp. It wil just pull out from above (get that round plastic in the corner out of the way and also you probably need to move the clear plastic on the left ramp as it covers the tip of the diverter arm)... it will pull out from above only after you disconnect it at the coil underneath. Pay special attention to how that little linkage piece is oriented as well as the small spring and put it back in the same way. It can be clumsy getting it right, so try a few times if you have to. There is usually a tiny hex head stud thingy in that linkage that pinches the flat side of the diverter arm stem and holds it in place. Loosen that first to pull the arm out and it will all come apart. Put it back together in reverse of what you just did.

This isn't the easiest game to remove all the ramps, so if you get flustered, stop, post pics or questions and take a break while people give you suggestions. Along the lines of putting washers and nuts back on the posts they came from, I like to use the dining room table to literally place all items I take off the game in exactly the same spot as they were in the game. Then you don't lose track of anything. But you have to make sure you don't need the dining room table while you're working!! Can't rush this kind of thing. So find the space to work and allow yourself to not need to get it all done in one go. Last thing you want to do is have to rush and either throw it all loose into a box or break something trying to hurry. Good luck!

Agreed. And if you shoot the ball into the goal to start the game while it is lit, then shoot it into the goal again when it is unlit, it awards you a Striker hole award. At least the default settings do this.