(Topic ID: 50131)

World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.


By DEWSHO

6 years ago



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  • 5,181 posts
  • 490 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 days ago by Gogojohnnyquack
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There are 5181 posts in this topic. You are on page 99 of 104.
#4901 4 months ago
Quoted from Lame33:

More boring assist hole drama!
This is the first game I've had with this kind of kick out (assist hole) and as I've mentioned, mine is pathetic. I read about the rubber band trick and tried it to see if a weak spring was causing my issue, but it's not that simple.
I finally got a chance to look at and take a video of how the ball launches out of the assist hole. In slow motion, I can watch it rocket up and right into the mounting bracket (#01-8877) directly above it. Momentum blunted, it then dribbles toward the goal seldom making it.
Is this how everyone else's works or do I have angle or bracket issues? I had thought it was designed to kick it more forward and less upward, but I've never closely inspected a working one.

I FINALLY got my issue figured out, hopefully it's the same fix for you.

The assist eject hole and its respective coil are offset from each other for room, so the eject plate has a plate that allows for this offset. It's unique to the assist eject hole versus the other two. On my game, this plate was hitting the the bracket that holds the coil, so it did not allow enough movement to make a solid kick. I bent the coil bracket , no more contact, scores a a goal every time!

#4902 4 months ago

Beat Germany twice...was at LA for a third match but couldn’t get the scoop hit. Lots and lots of Victory laps in this one!

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#4903 4 months ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Beat Germany twice...was at LA for a third match but couldn’t get the scoop hit. Lots and lots of Victory laps in this one!
[quoted image]

DAMN....that's a game right there!

#4904 4 months ago

Has anyone made a decal for the soccer ball on the playfield? I know its tricky because its partially translucent.

#4905 4 months ago
Quoted from cocomonkeh:

Has anyone made a decal for the soccer ball on the playfield? I know its tricky because its partially translucent.

Are you talking about the one with the 5 skills?
First off, the playfield is painted, and there are 5 lens inserts for lights. If you put a decal on, it would likely not last very long, as the ball(s) would wear through it in short order. A surface decal may also alter the trajectory of the ball, much like the rollover switches.

Re-painting the ball would be difficult, because of color matching and other factors, but there are those who have done it. You can probably find images if you search this group (more than 2 years ago, if I recall).

#4906 4 months ago

I think I'm just going to have to mylar it and call it good until I get a new playfield.

#4907 4 months ago

My WCS gate in the back isn’t stopping the ball. What is the inactivated position supposed to do? After one orbit does it stop the ball? Any suggestions?

Thanks!

#4908 4 months ago
Quoted from ChrisThePintern:

My WCS gate in the back isn’t stopping the ball. What is the inactivated position supposed to do? After one orbit does it stop the ball? Any suggestions?
Thanks!

There are two springs on the mech back there. One (or both) are probably broken.

#4909 4 months ago
Quoted from cbdarden:

There are two springs on the mech back there. One (or both) are probably broken.

Under the table or on the mech on the Playfield itself?

I appreciate your help

#4910 4 months ago
Quoted from ChrisThePintern:

My WCS gate in the back isn’t stopping the ball. What is the inactivated position supposed to do? After one orbit does it stop the ball? Any suggestions?
Thanks!

It's supposed to stop the ball until you have
travel lit. Then it will let the ball travel around the whole orbit.

#4911 4 months ago
Quoted from ChrisThePintern:

My WCS gate in the back isn’t stopping the ball. What is the inactivated position supposed to do? After one orbit does it stop the ball? Any suggestions?
Thanks!

Please see my response on page 98 (previous page) where I included a photo and more written detail.

#4912 4 months ago
Quoted from cocomonkeh:

Has anyone made a decal for the soccer ball on the playfield? I know its tricky because its partially translucent.

I made soccer ball decals for the pop bumper caps. I will post pics later.

#4913 4 months ago

Does anyone sell soccer ball speaker panel decals?

#4914 4 months ago

Has anyone use LED OCD and/or GI OCD boards on World Cup? Any thoughts?

#4915 4 months ago
Quoted from SkaterVet:

Has anyone use LED OCD and/or GI OCD boards on World Cup? Any thoughts?

Mine has a LED OCD board in it from the person that I purchased it from, but I don't know what it was like before to make a comparison. Apparently there was at least some reason that he did it, so I would say it helped. I can take a video if you'd like.

#4916 4 months ago
Quoted from maffewl:

Mine has a LED OCD board in it from the person that I purchased it from, but I don't what it was like before to make a comparison. Apparently there was at least some reason that he did it, so I would say it helped. I can take a video if you'd like.

I'd love to see a video of that. Thank you!

#4917 4 months ago

I have just sent my skill shot assembly away for repair and re-plating, just wondering if anyone has replaced the sleeves inside with Titans silicone or something different to the original black rubber ones?

#4918 4 months ago
Quoted from PURPLEBAT:

I have just sent my skill shot assembly away for repair and re-plating, just wondering if anyone has replaced the sleeves inside with Titans silicone or something different to the original black rubber ones?

Mine are yellow... replaced by previous owner I believe. I like the look, though i have to clean them occasionally to keep them looking bright.

#4919 4 months ago
Quoted from PURPLEBAT:

I have just sent my skill shot assembly away for repair and re-plating, just wondering if anyone has replaced the sleeves inside with Titans silicone or something different to the original black rubber ones?

I went a completely different route... I left the black rubber, but had my entire skillshot assembly and rail and had all of it blasted down and powder coated in a deep yellow that matches the yellow on the side of the machine. Many like the 80's gold tone plating, but I much prefer the updated look. Mine looks as if it just came off the assembly line last week (save for some normal wear).

One issue with powder coating the rail... It's so slick that the ball kept flying off, so I had to make some adjustments to try to slow the ball down, while still allowing them to eject Striker's Hideout of there are 2 balls in there at the same time. After a lot of fiddling, I finally found the balance between eject power, and keeping the ball on the rail.

#4920 4 months ago

duplicate post

#4921 4 months ago
Quoted from dleasman:

[NOOBS]: New to World Cup Soccer?
I hope this is not presumptuous to post this, but I don't know if there has been a post of basic "things you should know" about how to troubleshoot this pin. So, here is my starter list for anyone new. So, here are some basics...
When you get any new pin, after cleaning it, I believe the best thing to do is to use the built in tests. Learn how to use them, and understand how the switch and light matrix works. This requires a manual, or at least those pages with the maps. Most issues you encounter will be diagnosed, and likely solved using this basic information. Getting more into the electronics, I think it is important to understand the purpose of the diodes on the switches. It should also be understood that all of the IR sensors (ball through, etc) are actually on the matrix as well, translated through the board below the playfield, under the left slingshot. Having a basic knowledge of a multimeter is also helpful. To learn about all of these things, I found that Ray's Tech Tips on YouTube provided all of this (if you can get past the sarcasm of the idiot that film Ray in the episodes).
For mechanical issues, like electrical issues, step 1, if you need help, should be to use that search box at the top of this page. Odds are, the issue has already been discussed long before you got here. Though new, unique issues do happen.
Mechanical issues are the most frustrating... The diverter has been widely discussed, and I have personally posted about it a few times. The goalie is prone to breaking (plastic and wiring), because let's face it... That guy takes a beating.
For replacement parts, I always look to Marco Specialties first, just to identify the part I need. Then, I may go to ebay or elsewhere, depending on the need. I also like Marco for the basic LED conversion kit, but I know there are many others. I have purchased lights from many places, and there are many varieties, not all of which are worth the money.
EDIT: Cleaning... Keeping a machine clean reduces wear. Novus 1 & 2 are highly recommended. 1 for basic cleaning, 2 for deeper cleaning of the soccer ball, flipper rubbers, and some other areas. Maguiar's Carnuba Wax is great for the playfield. Replace balls annually! If they get pitted, or start to rust, that is abrasive on the playfield. Rubbers are all wear items, and I get mine from Marco.
EDIT: Get a Reed Switch Adjustment Tool! (bent rod with slots in each end, search marco) Don't bend your switches with a plyers, as it will do more harm than good.
In summary... If you are new, get a copy of the manual, learn the matrix, search the forum, and start with Marco for parts. Ray's Tech Tips is a great knowledge base, and many in this forum are welcoming to questions, and most problems get solved in short order.
I hope this post is useful to someone out there, as I used this forum a lot in the beginning, and would like to give back where I can.

#4922 4 months ago

Apparently, the coffee is EXTRA strong in Minnesota...

Just a little ribbing, sir, haha

#4923 4 months ago
Quoted from dleasman:

I went a completely different route... I left the black rubber, but had my entire skillshot assembly and rail and had all of it blasted down and powder coated in a deep yellow that matches the yellow on the side of the machine. Many like the 80's gold tone plating, but I much prefer the updated look. Mine looks as if it just came off the assembly line last week (save for some normal wear).
One issue with powder coating the rail... It's so slick that the ball kept flying off, so I had to make some adjustments to try to slow the ball down, while still allowing them to eject Striker's Hideout of there are 2 balls in there at the same time. After a lot of fiddling, I finally found the balance between eject power, and keeping the ball on the rail.

I'm looking at powder coating mine too. I'm thinking purple that is prominent on the playfield and cabinet. I'll be curious to find out if I have the same issue as you. I may PM you to ask how you addressed it.

#4924 4 months ago

The 3 posts on my just acquired WCS skillshot are red, yellow, green. I thought this was how it was, until I read the last few posts.

#4925 4 months ago
Quoted from AntennaMan:

The 3 posts on my just acquired WCS skillshot are red, yellow, green. I thought this was how it was, until I read the last few posts.

And the fourth one?

#4926 4 months ago
Quoted from PURPLEBAT:

And the fourth one?

There’s only 3.

Mine are Red, White, and Blue.

Edit: Sorry. I was thinking the lights.

#4927 4 months ago

Yeah, I was thinking the lights too, red, yellow, green. All 4 of the posts are yellow.

#4928 4 months ago
Quoted from PURPLEBAT:

And the fourth one?

pasted_image (resized).jpeg

#4929 4 months ago
Quoted from accidental:

I'm looking at powder coating mine too. I'm thinking purple that is prominent on the playfield and cabinet. I'll be curious to find out if I have the same issue as you. I may PM you to ask how you addressed it.

I have been very happy with the results. The machine looked so dated with the gold plating, which was all flaking off anyway. So glad I did the powder coating.

#4930 4 months ago

Original rubber posts for coin toss are 4x fat 7/8 long black rubber posts (part number 23-6652-1).
Why powder coat and not keep the coin toss assembly original? Just glass beat it to remove old plating and then give it to a professional to brass-plate it. Mine looks new from factory with this method. (This is what the factory did)

#4931 4 months ago

Doing a modest restoration on my first WCS. Quick question - how does one test the magnets? Couldn't find it in the Test menu. Thanks!!

#4932 4 months ago

Pretty sure they're in the solenoid test. Remember you need to hold in the interlock buttons too.

#4933 4 months ago
Quoted from JDinNOVA:

Doing a modest restoration on my first WCS. Quick question - how does one test the magnets? Couldn't find it in the Test menu. Thanks!!

Look in the system tests, T4 Solenoid Tests #33 Magna Goalie and #35 Lock Magnet. Electronically, they are run by the Fliptronic II board, in the very top left of the back box. Note that the actually flippers are the "upper flippers" and the "lower flippers" are actually the magnets. Verify that the correct size of fuses are on the Fliptronic board. All 4 should be 250V 3A Slow Blow. Many people put a higher rating (5A), which is not wise, and not needed.

#4934 4 months ago
Quoted from provato:

Original rubber posts for coin toss are 4x fat 7/8 long black rubber posts (part number 23-6652-1).
Why powder coat and not keep the coin toss assembly original? Just glass beat it to remove old plating and then give it to a professional to brass-plate it. Mine looks new from factory with this method. (This is what the factory did)

Thanks Provato, I just ordered some from Titan.

#4935 4 months ago

What colour are the legs on your game? Mine are black but looking at the promo flyer the seem to have been gold original.

#4936 4 months ago
Quoted from RonaldRayGun:

What colour are the legs on your game? Mine are black but looking at the promo flyer the seem to have been gold original.

Gold is standard. Most look like shit after all these years. I put black on mine and tossed the old gold aside for spares.

#4937 4 months ago

Legs, leg bolts, wire ramp and coin toss assembly are brass-plated (pale gold colour). If you clean them once-twice a year you will keep them shining and keep them original.
Funny thing (and unique) is that side rails and lockdown bar are standard silver (steel)

#4938 4 months ago

Haha I had no idea any of these were supposed to be gold until this recent convo. My legs aren’t original—they are chrome. But the ramp and coin toss are both gray metallic (and I had assumed they always were). I took a flashlight out and inspected the coin toss box—sure enough, there are some traces of brass-colored coating hidden in the shadows .

I think I’ll pass on any major renovations—I’m quite happy with the current appearance.

#4939 4 months ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:

Haha I had no idea any of these were supposed to be gold until this recent convo. My legs aren’t original—they are chrome. But the ramp and coin toss are both gray metallic (and I had assumed they always were). I took a flashlight out and inspected the coin toss box—sure enough, there are some traces of brass-colored coating hidden in the shadows .
I think I’ll pass on any major renovations—I’m quite happy with the current appearance.

post up some pics!

#4940 4 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Gold is standard. Most look like shit after all these years. I put black on mine and tossed the old gold aside for spares.

Ditto!

#4941 4 months ago

Thankfully, when I got mine, it had chrome legs. I think if they were gold, I would have replaced them immediately.
Though my chrome legs had a lot of rust on them... I put them in a wallpaper tray with 50/50 white vinigar and water for 24 hours, then scrubbed with a ball of aluminum foil, and they were brand new again.
I remember that someone here powder coated the legs, lock bar, and rails in a color (purple, maybe?).
But as my friend Devin always tells me, "There is no such thing as an un-modified pinball machine."

#4942 4 months ago
Quoted from dleasman:

Thankfully, when I got mine, it had chrome legs. I think if they were gold, I would have replaced them immediately.
Though my chrome legs had a lot of rust on them... I put them in a wallpaper tray with 50/50 white vinigar and water for 24 hours, then scrubbed with a ball of aluminum foil, and they were brand new again.
I remember that someone here powder coated the legs, lock bar, and rails in a color (purple, maybe?).
But as my friend Devin always tells me, "There is no such thing as an un-modified pinball machine."

This doesn't mean that it's nice to purple powder coat or put cute little dogs or rainbow puke GI lighting in your machine though...

#4943 4 months ago
Quoted from dleasman:

Thankfully, when I got mine, it had chrome legs. I think if they were gold, I would have replaced them immediately.
Though my chrome legs had a lot of rust on them... I put them in a wallpaper tray with 50/50 white vinigar and water for 24 hours, then scrubbed with a ball of aluminum foil, and they were brand new again.
I remember that someone here powder coated the legs, lock bar, and rails in a color (purple, maybe?).
But as my friend Devin always tells me, "There is no such thing as an un-modified pinball machine."

I did try this and then thought I wasted more than $50 of my time so I just bought them!

#4944 4 months ago
Quoted from provato:

This doesn't mean that it's nice to purple powder coat or put cute little dogs or rainbow puke GI lighting in your machine though...

I like to keep my games close to factory as possible, but to each his own, and the guys that like to experiment with some new upgades and mods is great to see and even steal an idea or two. For every failed abomination mod, there usually is great one.

#4945 4 months ago
Quoted from PURPLEBAT:

I like to keep my games close to factory as possible, but to each his own, and the guys that like to experiment with some new upgades and mods is great to see and even steal an idea or two. For every failed abomination mod, there usually is great one.

Couldn't agree more.
That said, I really like the coin toss and the wire form done in yellow that matches the playfield.
Better than the original imo.

#4946 4 months ago
Quoted from PURPLEBAT:

I like to keep my games close to factory as possible, but to each his own, and the guys that like to experiment with some new upgades and mods is great to see and even steal an idea or two. For every failed abomination mod, there usually is great one.

Agreed, in fact the original gold legs was a big plus to me when I bought mine. I'm usually a purist. That said, I just received my Monster Bash LE and it is gorgeous. The lighting of my beautiful WCS now looks old, dim and yellow next to my new Rolls Royce of pins. In turn, I'm considering converting World Cup to LEDs so it fits in. Has anyone seen theirs with incandescent vs led bulbs? Were you happy with the switch? Do the lights flash annoyingly fast? I've already heard from one Pinsider. Thanks for any additional thoughts.

#4947 4 months ago
Quoted from provato:

This doesn't mean that it's nice to purple powder coat or put cute little dogs or rainbow puke GI lighting in your machine though...

I agree. I am not a fan of "overuse of colored lights". My GI are all white, except for a couple green accents (under the ramps). Overall, my playfield is really bright, especially with the mirror blades.
I respect that some people want to keep everything OEM, right down to incandescent bulbs, and even the gold trim. That's certainly respectable. But I don't mind customization, within reason. Some machines are better after customization, like the Adams Family, or Attack From Mars. However, for older EM and even hybrid games (i.e. Evel Knievel) are best kept 100% stock. Some games are best dismantled, and re-built as a custom game... For example, some friends of mine stripped down a Flash Gordon and rebuilt it as a custom pin, This is Spinal Tap. It's an incredible game, and even goes to eleven!
The point is, I don't have an issue with customization, within reason.

#4948 4 months ago

Yeah I'm usually a purist too, but I always install cliffies, sunlight or warm white LED GI and ramp/plastics/etc. protectors to make my game last longer. That said, and with longevity in mind, brass plating and other metal plating done right, is way more resistant to ball damage than any paint - even yellow powder coating. So my vote goes to plating (which happens to be factory original) every time

#4949 4 months ago

I will say in this title coloured gi really worked for me with comet ice blue. It brings out the teal in the plastics without color wash out as the ice blue is really subtle

#4950 4 months ago

Posting from my phone, so hopefully this works. On further inspection, I see some traces of brass on one of the ramp cross beams as well. The rear-side coin toss pic shows where I found some brass, which I’m about to peel off.

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