Hi guys—hoping you can help with an issue on my WCS.

The wires on the Goalie switch are bad, so I’m replacing. But, there’s a small resistor in line and it shows in the manual, but it’s not identified. Does anyone know what this resistor is?? Or even know if it is a resistor??

Thanks!

Don't have my WCS anymore, but when I had this issue it was due to wiring being caught... Take a look and see if the wires to that are catching on anything.

Mr pinball in Melbourne has the goalie

Unless I'm doing poor searching it looks like they've just got the pad and no decal, and the pad is the same price that Marco charges for the pad and the decal combined.

However, I got my test goalies from my print supplier yesterday. Direct printed on foamed PVC and CNC cut. They seem great! They've got the same amount of flex as the original rubber pad. Keen to find out how durable they are.

They work out to be less than a quarter of the price of buying a pad and decal from Marco. And when factoring shipping costs it's like 1/10th the price. So I'm happy!

Wondering if anyone knows the correct part number for the switch behind the goalie plastic. The manual says a-17779, but that isn’t popping up anywhere. Mine has completely fallen apart. Thanks.

Since I catalog every part of my machine for future reference & servicing, I think I can help you. Here is the list of parts for the target to accumulate them seperately and build your own "original" target:

A-17779(1) target switch assy
--06-1-14(1) blade-contact
--06-13G-14(1) blade-contact
--01-916-H(1) "spacer- 3/32"""
--01-916-S(2) "spacer-tight 1/16"""
--01-916-T(1) "spacer- 1/32"""
--03-7007-6(2) "tubing-3/8"""
--03-7264-6(1) tgt square-op yellow
--06-20-20(2) blade-back up
--06-73-2(1) blade-insulator
--07-6697-4(1) rivet .125X.187x.218 zinc
--4700-00003-00(1) fw .125X.281X.032
--06-1F-14(2) blade-contact
--5860-09374-00(2) cp prec met 7309fs
--5070-09054-00(1) diode-1N4004 1.0a

...and here is a picture to assist you in assemblying it:
A-17779 Photo (resized).JPG

Sooo....
fire up the factory and produce a hundred give or take, and make them available!

I’m not sure if I’d be allowed to sell them because the decal artwork is probably copyrighted?

Anybody offer some insight here?

.

If you think it is copyrighted then change the goalie a little. (different hair or uniform). People make alternate translites you could make an alternate goalie.

Hmm. Good suggestion. I'll have to think about that. I only like doing mods if they're genuinely an improvement while also fitting with the artwork of the game.

Which plunger spring do you folks use? The manual calls for the medium-tension green spring. But if find I can’t hit the closest skill shot light without getting completely lucky once in a blue moon. I tried replacing the spring with another green, with no change. But I then I replaced it with the high tension blue and it gives much more control.

Is this cheating?

When you say "closest skill shot light" do you mean the top (1), middle (2), or bottom (3) hole? I could take "closest" to mean 1 (shortest plunge to achieve) or 3 (closest to the player).

3-closest to the player

I have the same issue as you then. I figured a higher tension spring would be good. My only concern is that I hear about WCS skill shot assemblies busting their welds from balls slamming into the base, and a hard full-plunge into the 3rd hole may exacerbate that.

Same problem for me, if I have a good game going I normally push it hard to get it there which I hate doing.

Regarding the skill shot, I have similar issues with the closest slot. I've debated using "skinnier" post sleeves. Or, a fat, normal, skinny setup where the closest is the easiest to hit. Has anyone tested this? I currently have another machine that I am restoring, so it will be a while before I get around to shopping the WCS, but that was something I was going to look into.

Edit: double-post.

it is actually a "skill shot" or a shot that requires skill, embrace the fact this awesome game has an actual skill shot, many don't. Unless you call changing lanes until the lit one has the ball roll through it skillful.

I get the point, but there is no "skill" when it simply will not go into that slot unless by sheer bounce "luck". There is zero skill in that. I want to make it more of a skill shot where it is attainable and something to shoot for. At the moment, it is a test report trigger that says the switch must be bad because it hasn't activated in so long.

Agreed. IMO the full plunge shot should, for the most part, be the "gimmie". The "skill" is in getting the correct strength for the other two holes because they are less than the full plunge. If WCS had four holes and the full plunge jumped the whole lot, awarding nothing, then you'd be correct.

The only way I can get the bottom hole is by plunging short and hoping for the ball to bounce twice, over both holes off both posts, into the bottom hole.

I plunge every ball as an attempt to reach the bottom hole and I almost never get it. Other WCS's I've played, a full plunge goes into the bottom hole almost every time. That's how it should be. Something is not right with mine.

I seem to be getting very little to no play in the pops. The only play is when a weak ramp shot falls into them. My loop gate looks like this at all times, appears to be up. Is this normal? I'm guessing not. I go into the test and all it does is flick up a bit.

20190214_181918 (resized).jpg

Should only be up when "Travel" is lit, and you're flying to the next city.

I’m having this same issue. Looks like I’ll need to take off the ramps and investigate. I need to clean it, put in new runners, and install LED GI anyway.

Unless you’re traveling to the next city, the left orbit should always feed the pops.

Any suggestions on where to start looking?

Test the coil that operates the gate by the pops.

I did, all it does is flick up a tiny bit.

So it never goes all the way back down? Then that’s your issue. Take it apart and see if you can see anything causing it to not drop all the way.

Sounds good, not sure what it's normally supposed to look like. Thanks.

When at rest it should be all the way down so that the ball bounces off it and feeds the top lanes.

When I first got mine it was stuck in the up position, I had to connect it to a spring on the backside of the playfield.

Dave

Can anyone snap some close ups of how the wiring attaches to the goalkeeper please? Mine came loose and now the goalkeeper does not register when hit and I have a error on start up.

I have a WCS translight that I am thinking about parting with... almost excellent shape 98% awesome... PM me if interested.

Here you go! My wires cames off before as well.
0122B7A8-C0E0-4FA1-9A7D-184C33BA48AD (resized).jpeg

Thanks!

Pm Sent

I had the exact same issue with mine... seems to be a common stress point.

Here's where you might want to start...
Since the ball gate is under the top orbit ramp, and difficult to get to, start under the table instead.
Under the top, right corner, below your ball gate, on the bottom of the playfield, you will find this solenoid. I apologize if this is not clear, but it's the best shot I could get with my phone.
On the right side of the photo, you will see the wire hookups, and above, you will see the wide, metal flap that pulls down. Use Solenoid Test #34 to actuate. It pulls on what looks like a flat, copper double L, inside of that oval hole you see on the right. That pulls on a small metal rod that opens and closes the ball gate. Obviously, from your description, it stays pulled down. It might be caught on something, or, possibly the return spring is bad. You can see on the left of my picture, the end of a spring, which is kind of a pinkish red. That is what pulls the metal flap back into position, once the solenoid releases.
Again, the solenoid pills the rod (inside the oval hole) downward, to open the gate. The spring on the left side (not fully in view) pulls on the left to pull the right side away from the solenoid, to push the rod back up. Yours is not going back up, due to friction, or a bad spring.
If you need a photo from the other side to show the spring, I can post that as well.
Hope this helps. If it does, I always appreciate a thumbs up.
IMG_20190220_074631 (resized).jpg

What part # is that pinkish-red spring? I’m fairly certain I found a broken one in my cab.

that spring is part # 10-120.

I've made a rubber rings/posts list & map for anyone that wants to buy new rubbers, here it is:
World Cup Soccer Rubber Parts & Bumper Posts.jpg

Thanks!

Can anyone take a photo of their diverter arm assembly underneath the game? I’m having to redo mine and it’s a total pain!

Here ya go...
The trick to making it work smoothly is to keep vertical movement of the pivot rod minimal. I added a nylon washer between the arm and the mounting plate, which is visible in the photo. On top of the machine, there is another thicker nylon washer under the actual diverter. That wonky spring between the solenoid rod and the end of the pivot arm is critical, and needs to be position so it does not bind. The spring over the solenoid rod is so that the moves back after the solenoid is released. Again, the nylon washers, and limiting the "play" in the vertical movement of the pivot rod is critical.
If this is helpful, please give me an "upvote".
-Dana

IMG_20190221_144337 (resized).jpg

This is a question to anyone that owns a WCS94 with its original documents.
I would really like to see photos of:
a)16-9634 sheet-field service instruct
b)16-9647-1 pricing card insert - usa
c)16-9093 form * journal
d)16-9478 card-registration
...and any other document, paper, sticker that came with the original pinball machine

Also, what promo keychain plastics came with the game? (I know of two: the round "soccer ball" G2 and the trapezoid with the white-yellow background and green ball. Are there any others?)

I don't have the 4 you listed, but do have others. PM me, and I can get you what I have.

I have good quality images of the promo flyer (cover, side left and right, back), PDF of manual (unfortunately, each page is a scan), original hand book, rules sheet, parts list, a few promo graphics, and some top card images, including the "new format" color images that popped up a few years back. A few things are available here: https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2811
That site even has a link to the original promo video.

I am still collecting as well, so please share additional things you have.