^^^^. Do exactly this.

Nice work. Is your Color DMD the LCD or LED version?

Thank you. It is in fact the LCD version. I run all of them in dots mode as I prefer the look.

Topper:
Official 1994 World Cup Adidas Questra
Thank you, Santa!

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Just like my topper, hahaha.

It was a sponsor ball from something or the other tournament USA.

I’m very interested in getting a Color DMD for WCS94 but I am on the fence about an LCD or LED version. I currently have a Doctor Who with the LCD so I’m slightly leaning towards LED to see the differences. Would love to hear any input and also for those that went LCD, did it require an additional work like was required for Doctor Who?

Thanks in advance for your input.

I have led and lcd on my pins and both are great. The advantage of the led is that it is bright and colors are really sharp, and it fits perfectly within the old dmd footprint. It’s also cheaper. The downside is it has no adjustments other than brightness and contrast. The lcd is much more customizable with several modes to choose from. I like both dotsxl and hires options. The downside is it has a larger display and is more expensive.

Personally I like the lcd better due to the different display settings, but love my led version too. You won’t be disappointed either way.

Just my two cents, for what its worth.

While at Pinball Expo, and the latest Nashville show, like you, I was trying to determine if saving a few bucks and starting to use the LED version would make more sense. Both look great, so I am nitpicking here. There is a little bit of a sensation of perspective issues with the LED in my opinion. You know when you are sitting at a stop light, and the signal has one of those filters that makes it really bright straight on, but blocks it a bit from the sides? It is subtle, but I thought it was enough to prevent me from getting one. Maybe one of the LED owners could chime in and indicate if this is truly the case. During both shows, I had a regular consumption of scotch, so I may have been the only issue, and not the display. Lol

Anyone knows which plastic is the part number "31-1925A-10"?
It is mentioned in the official parts list here: https://www.ipdb.org/files/2811/Bally_1994_World_Cup_Soccer_Parts_List.txt

2159 .2 31-1925A-10 plfd plastic-world cup 1

I have found plastics 31-1925A-1 through 31-1925A-9, but #10 remains a mystery to me...

Goes straight in. The only reason DW + LCD takes extra work is the light board underneath the DMD. We swapped my buddies out so he could put the lights back in a while back and I definitely like it better than way.

I had a LED in my WCS (it's in TOM now) and it looked great, one of the best I'd seen for color. I have an LCD as well (in my Shadow now) and it also looks great, but the color is a little less bold., which some people seem to prefer. You won't go wrong either way tho.

Where do you get an LED
or an LCD display?
What do they set you back?

https://www.colordmd.com/
$360 or $399

Gracias

Hello everybody! This is my first post on the pinside forum and I’m happy that I can be logged here . One year ago, I started dreaming about my own pinball machine. A couple days ago I found one interesting offer, seller sent me a few photos. Unfortunately, as a beginner I'm not able to make an assessment of the condition of the machine. I know that it will be necessary to go and test the pinball there, but I think that the photos can also be helpful. I’d like to ask you to tell me whether it’s worth buying. Can you give me some advice about it? The seller is convincing me that the machine is 100% working but I know pinballs often need to be repaired. Do you think I’m able to learn quick how to repair the pinball (I’m an absolutely beginner)?

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The machine looks in great shape. It has minor wear in the scoops but looks pretty clean otherwise. World Cup Soccer is a great first pinball to own. It is easy to get into and tough enough to keep you coming back for more. Play it a bunch and if it feels right then go for it. You will have to maintain it and fix things here and there but that can be rewarding as well. These forums contain a wealth of knowledge. I never owned a machine 2 years ago and now I just replaced my first playfield. It's a great hobby to get into. Welcome!

wonder why this wiring harness has been disconnected,

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Well...here's an update on my topper issue I had
Apparently PPS has new remakes, and Marco claims theirs are NOS
Marco did send me a replacement after the 1st one was ruined by their bending it to fit it in a small box
The replacement was packed correctly and is straight and has no artifacts (Brazilian Flag on the first one has a factory paint defect)
They also sent me a prepaid return label for the old one.
I'm not sure why...they weren't cross shipping/doing an RMA.
Maybe they want it back so they can wave it around while admonishing their employee who ruined the part

BobC

LED vc LCD color dmd

My DMD was bad when I got the game back in the early days of LED DMDs

I have an all blue LED DMD

I'll probably switch to a color dmd and go with LCD as when you set it up so the dots combine to form a solid images.
I think when you do that it looks better for games that use cartoon style dmd graphics

Oddly the colordmd website is not loading for me right now...

Same problem for me also. But only the home page it would seem (www.colordmd.com). Go to shop.colordmd.com or any other page and it should work.

This url (www.colordmd.com/Home.html) also seems to work...

The game seems to be in a good enough condition for its age. This is a European version (I have the exact same version)
-Playfield is good - need minor repair
-A lot of broken plastics (~200€ for a new set)
-Ramps seem intact, but I need better photo
-it has a new soccer ball!!!
-PCBs seem in good condition, no alkaline corrosion
-Cabinet inside seems to have everything ( except manuals, unique parts bag)
Playfield bottom seems clean

...I would need more photos to make further assessment. But I would buy it for 1000 to 1700 € tops.
I am currently in the process of restoring mine, so I can help you restore it.
If I was a beginner, I would invest my money initially to buy 3 basic tools:
1. Ultrasonic Cleaner
2. Twin Buffing Wheel (with cloth spiral sewn wheels, wire wheel & polishing compounds for ferrous metals)
3.Dremmel tool

EDIT: oh, I would also buy a soldering/desoldering station with temperature (not wattage!) control

Scoot, Skywalker and Provoto - thanks a lot for your help!!
Provoto, I've got a question: how did you recognise broken plastics? I'm looking at the photos once again and I cannot see anything
One more - the seller informed me that there's a playfield protector installed. It's a good news, isn't it?

You can see the plastic opposite the soccer ball (where the 2 white rubbers are) is completely broken which is common
I also see a crack in the header plastic, the left slingshot is broken too and they look yellowed. I would buy a new set

Good news because it kept the playfield away from ball induced damage
However, if the seller by "playfield protector" means mylar, then these might be bad news if you want to remove it (removing mylar is an art of patience, knowledge and skill)

If he means that lexan/polycarbonate thing that goes on top of the playfield, then this might be bad or good depending on what you want. If you want it installed, then it's good news.

I personally don't like the feel & sound of the ball rolling on plastic (instead I clearcoat my playfields for protection)

@lecter... WCS is a Great 1st game, and should be a long time keeper.

I would recommend playing the game manually with the glass off. That way, you can roll balls in/on every ramp, drop hole, switches etc. and test the operation, as if you were playing the game. This will also demonstrate to Seller, you're not a Newbie and you're well educated, on buying games. In addition, "if" something isn't working right, there's a negotiation item to discuss.

Good luck on your purchase.

Kerry

The seller has just explained me that this is for a door switch. He was convincing me that thanks to it I would be able to play when door is opened (both flippers still work).

He has bypassed the 50 volt disconnect cable that is connected to the Interlock Switch next to the coin door. This SHOULD be connected, and you should NEVER play with the door open (Electrocution or fire or shortcircuit hazard)

However, inform the seller that you can still have your 50 volts in solenoids (and play with the door open) with a little tool that was originally provided with the game:
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If he doesn't have it (along with the other stuff of the "unique parts bag"), then the price drops

I'm writing from the Country in eastern Europe. The WCS94 costs about 1800 €. If we want to compare prices: The creature from the black lagoon costs 3500€, The bride of pinbot costs 1400€ (all of them are in good, working condition). The average monthly salary is about 800€ in my Country.

One more thing: One guy told me, that this WCS94 looks like it has been played a lot. Should I be worried about it? Does it mean that the machine will be broken soon? On the second thought: It's virtually impossible to find the pinball that has been played rarely, isn’t it.

So while researching a Color DMD this thread has given me inspiration to get a topper. So here it is and it comes with a remote and power cord for around $21. It also displays different colors.
Now I need to pull the machine out to get it on top.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CYMHXSZ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

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It seems you need to ask yourself the right questions:

What are you going to do with a pinball you buy? Decorate your room? Play it with family & friends and don't care about appearance? Invest time and money to restore it?

If you choose the third option (like me), then you only care for TWO things: what is unrepairable and what is missing in a pinball.

I imagine that I will play with my family and friends. When the game becomes boring I will sell it - I hope the price will be similar.

That's ok, in that case you only have to play-test the game a couple of times and check if everything works (as mentioned by Kerry_Richard).
If something breaks, you can always ask here to help you fix it. No use in worrying about the price change.

Provato, thanks for all your advices. Now I need to think about purchasing the machine and make the right decision.
Thanks once again for all of you who tried to help me!

Anyone know were I can buy the 4 ramp guards? New or used in good condition. Marcos out of stock on 2 of them.
Part nr: 01-12811.1 (1) , 01-12813.1 (1) and 01-13104 (2).

I have all four used, you can have them, just pay for shipping.

Hi All,
Just got my very first WCS and loving the game but having an issue with my right flipper. It does not work properly in game play. It just jumps every now and then. When I go in test mode, it works perfect. Any advice? Thanks, T

Thanks for everyone’s input on the Color DMD. Decided to go with LED since I already have one LCD. Ordered today and it is already marked shipped, very fast service!

Fixed it. Dirty Opto.

I also need a front ramp (the smaller one) without breaks or cracks. Mine was broken at the usual spot - the screw tab in the end. I glued it with 3 layers of Bondic but it is kind of ugly...
Does somebody have one in good condition?

Thanks

I had to order a replacement opto for the Striker hideout today (leads snapped). Since they're cheap, I ordered a couple sets just to get value out of the Marco shipping price. I'm still new to owning this machine though, and it got me thinking--what are some other relatively cheap parts that I should order in advance once something else arises? In other words, are there any other fillers I should consider next time I'm trying to get value out of the shipping price?

Coil stops for the flippers and flipper plungers and links.

Can’t never have too many extra rubbers either.

Somebody's lucky with the ladies...

You are running the most recent domestic code.

There's a program out there that will patch the game code with the lamp matrix driver code from the WPC-95 games which addresses the inherent LED ghosting issues.

Thank you!

Where can I find this code at?

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I bought a set of plastics. While installing them I am having a hard time with the rivets. Is there a special or easy way to do them. I bought the ez sqeeze tool from Marco's and a assortment of rivets but it's a pita to do. Maybe I got the wrong size rivets. These are 1/8 dia. I can easily do pop rivets but they look horrible.

That is an LCD display in Tile mode.

I currently have mine set to 8 bit. I like the old pc graphics look on this one.