World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.

(Topic ID: 50131)

World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.


By DEWSHO

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 4,718 posts
  • 449 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 12 hours ago by Scoot
  • Topic is favorited by 157 Pinsiders

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There are 4718 posts in this topic. You are on page 94 of 95.
#4651 19 days ago
Quoted from RatShack:

For the backboard I used frosted warm whites instead of yellow, I figure it looks a little bit closer to the color of HPS stadium lights.

Same here, but sunlight white. Looks much better IMHO.

#4652 19 days ago
Quoted from Bendit:

Thanks guys! I was told the GI connectors are a little fried.
If the game was switched to LEDs, that should ease the cooking of the connectors, correct?
Should I then worry about them if all lights work?
Awesome tips. Thanks.
Never really noticed the soccer ball noise because it's always loud where I've played it. Is it loud because of lower gearing?
Are there gears I should be mindful of?

Here is what my connector looked like. Yikes!

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#4653 18 days ago
Quoted from maffewl:

Same here, but sunlight white. Looks much better IMHO.

I tried both those but felt it was just a little too bright, even with frosted single smd leds.

#4654 18 days ago

Hoping to get more troubleshooting assistance--this time on the Ball motor. Noise isn't an issue, spinning is the issue. It won't spin unless I loosen the two bolts holding the motor into the gear box--if everything's tight, it won't spin at all. Unfortunately, over time one of the bolts will jiggle out, and it's gotten to the point now where it will jiggle out during the very next game after readjustment.

I tried replacing the bolts with longer bolts and some rubber washers, but that didn't seem to work at all.

Any help is appreciated.

#4655 18 days ago

With the motor removed, the ball should spin with no resistance. If it does not spin freely, there may be old grease buildup in the gears. Flush it out with some carb cleaner. Then fill it with some synthetic grease. Also spray some carb cleaner in the motor and around the armature. Check the pinion gear to see if it is worn out. Add couple drops of bearing oil around the motor bushings. Reinstall the motor. There is very little adjustment so try to pull the motor away from the gearbox gears as you tighten the screws.

My motor was doing the same but it was caused by a rubber bushing that sat between the motor and the gearbox. I simply removed it. I also cleaned out everything as I stated above and now I can barely hear the motor running when playing.

#4656 18 days ago
Quoted from Scoot:

With the motor removed, the ball should spin with no resistance. If it does not spin freely, there may be old grease buildup in the gears. Flush it out with some carb cleaner. Then fill it with some synthetic grease. Also spray some carb cleaner in the motor and around the armature. Check the pinion gear to see if it is worn out. Add couple drops of bearing oil around the motor bushings. Reinstall the motor. There is very little adjustment so try to pull the motor away from the gearbox gears as you tighten the screws.
My motor was doing the same but it was caused by a rubber bushing that sat between the motor and the gearbox. I simply removed it. I also cleaned out everything as I stated above and now I can barely hear the motor running when playing.

Thanks--looks like the pinion gear is the culprit. It's worn and a bit tapered on the bottom half. Based on your comment on the free-spinning ball, I was able to get resistance on the ball if the motor is pulled out slightly (so that the widest part of the pinion gear is touching the gears, but as I push the motor in, the gears no longer catch and there's no resistance on the ball.

Is the pinion gear itself replaceable? Is there a specific size I should look for?

Thanks!

Edit: to specify replacing pinion gear not pinion

#4657 18 days ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:

Thanks--looks like the pinion gear is the culprit. It's worn and a bit tapered on the bottom half. Based on your comment on the free-spinning ball, I was able to get resistance on the ball if the motor is pulled out slightly (so that the widest part of the pinion is touching the gears, but as I push the motor in, the gears no longer catch and there's no resistance on the ball.
Is the pinion itself replaceable? Is there a specific size I should look for?
Thanks!

I'm not sure exactly what a pinion is, but there should be an entire gearbox attached to the spare motor that came with the machine.

As far as the comments on grease goes, I did my best to flush out the old grease and replace it with fresh lithium grease right before you got the machine from me.

Sorry it's giving you trouble!

#4658 18 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

I'm not sure exactly what a pinion is, but there should be an entire gearbox attached to the spare motor that came with the machine.
As far as the comments on grease goes, I did my best to flush out the old grease and replace it with fresh lithium grease right before you got the machine from me.
Sorry it's giving you trouble!

No worries at all--the grease is good! The pinion gear is a the tip of the motor itself--it's the piece that turns the other gears once inserted in the gear box. After 24 years though, it looks like it's had enough. I compared it to the pinion gear on the spare motor to confirm it's worn out towards the base. But if I can swap out that one small gear (rather than the whole motor) that would be preferred.

#4659 18 days ago

I believe the pinion is press fit onto the shaft. It would be difficult to replace it without damaging the motor. Also the pinion is not something easily found due to it's relative small size. It appeared to be 32 pitch but I never measured it. It would be nice to be able to replace with other pinions, but then the motor would have to be adjustable which could cause a whole lot of other problems with fit and gear mesh problems. I can see why they would choose to do it this way. Your best bet would be to replace the motor with a new gear on it. My motor's brushes are almost gone I noticed so I will have to buy a new one sooner than later too.

#4660 18 days ago

Replaced the motor (left the original gearbox in) and so far so good screwed in tight.

#4661 16 days ago

I like to personalize the aprons on my pins and decided to add some commemorative coins from the 94 World Cup. I added ribbon to dress it up a little but am not sure if I like it. Stay or go?

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#4662 15 days ago
Quoted from Scoot:

I like to personalize the aprons on my pins and decided to add some commemorative coins from the 94 World Cup. I added ribbon to dress it up a little but am not sure if I like it. Stay or go?
[quoted image]

Personally, I'm not feeling the ribbons. That said, I subscribe to the school of thought that the only person that needs to like it is you.

#4663 15 days ago

creative.

#4664 15 days ago

Nice. But I’m still a “go”.

#4666 14 days ago

Took me a while to find that one... GOOOOOOAAAAAALLLL!!!!

#4667 14 days ago

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#4668 13 days ago

What size driver do y’all use for the play field posts? See the pic. And what’s the tool actually called? They seem to be rounded?

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#4669 13 days ago

There is no driver, they are completely round.

You'll have to hold the post (not the round base) with pliers and loosen from under the playfield. Any scratches will be covered by the post rubber.

#4670 13 days ago

I just bought a new start button for my WCS but upon putting the spring in the button just pushes in and doesn’t spring back. I haven’t even put a light in there yet but the spring looks straight to me. What on earth am I missing?

#4671 10 days ago

Anyone have a used plastic laying around. I need the plastic that goes behind the goal and swings under the left ramp. Trying to avoid buying a whole set or paying a stupid amount on ebay. It's the one covered in white tape.

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#4672 10 days ago

I have one used rollover button assembly and 2 nos rollover buttons. $13 shipped for the lot in the US, send me a pm.

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#4673 10 days ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

There is no driver, they are completely round.
You'll have to hold the post (not the round base) with pliers and loosen from under the playfield. Any scratches will be covered by the post rubber.

Keep an old sacrificial post rubber handy and slip that over the post youre removing. You can then grab the post with a pair of pliers.

#4674 9 days ago

I just leave the nut on the back threaded on a few turns and tap the nutdriver handle a little and they pop right up. Then take the nut off and they are loose enough to pull out by hand.

#4675 9 days ago

Looking for the original factory mounting brackets and hardware for the original WCS94 topper ( https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1925-18-SP ) Thanks for your time.pasted_image (resized).png

#4676 9 days ago

World Cup had a topper?

#4677 9 days ago
Quoted from SkaterVet:

World Cup had a topper?

Yep, that was it, a series of national flags.
Rather low profile.

#4678 9 days ago
Quoted from rollitover:

Yep, that was it, a series of national flags.
Rather low profile.

Anyone have this attached to their machine? I’ve never seen one before. Looks like it’s not that impactful being only a couple inches tall

#4679 9 days ago

If you look on top of your backbox, you will see the screw holes where it used to be.

#4680 8 days ago

I have an extra Striker available if anyone is interested. It’s modified and ready to install. I purchased two but am only using one. I’ll split the cost of what I paid. PM me.

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#4681 8 days ago

ipdb doesn't even have a pic.

#4682 8 days ago
Quoted from Scoot:

I have an extra Striker available if anyone is interested. It’s modified and ready to install. I purchased two but am only using one. I’ll split the cost of what I paid. PM me.
[quoted image][quoted image]

It appears to be sold waiting for payment. Thank you for all who showed interest.

#4683 7 days ago
Quoted from wombat:

Looking for the original factory mounting brackets and hardware for the original WCS94 topper ( https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1925-18-SP ) Thanks for your time.[quoted image]

I've never seen one on a machine, in pictures, or on flyers.
Not even prototype pictures show it.
It must have been axed very early in the design stages.

I'm usually a parts hoarder, but I don't know if I'd spring for that topper.

My guess is you have to make your own mounting bracket as there were probably just a few made.

#4684 7 days ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Anyone have this attached to their machine? I’ve never seen one before. Looks like it’s not that impactful being only a couple inches tall

Marco's description says 1 1/4 inches tall...

#4685 7 days ago
Quoted from BobC:

I've never seen one on a machine, in pictures, or on flyers.
Not even prototype pictures show it.
It must have been axed very early in the design stages.
I'm usually a parts hoarder, but I don't know if I'd spring for that topper.
My guess is you have to make your own mounting bracket as there were probably just a few made.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/world-cup-soccer-94-owners-everyone-welcome/page/22#post-1715347

#4686 7 days ago
Quoted from wombat:

Looking for the original factory mounting brackets and hardware for the original WCS94 topper ( https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1925-18-SP ) Thanks for your time.[quoted image]

I'd love to see what you come up with, I have one of those and I grabbed some angles but they're not... quite... right... (ha ha!!)

#4687 7 days ago

I am restoring my WCS. I love pimping my pins.
Cannot find much on my search. Anyone have any tips?
Would love that striker for example, TY.

#4689 6 days ago

I suppose you could put leds behind it so it lights up.
Maybe one behind each flag with a random blinking pattern,
and perhaps segmented with something so the light does not bleed over from one flag to an adjacent one

#4690 6 days ago

I would bet this would make a decent topper with a few modifications

amazon.com link »

#4691 6 days ago

Hoping someone here can help.

I completely rebuilt my WCS, playfield swap, new coils and sleeves throughout, and the game plays fast and snappy. But ....

All three kick out holes have no oomph. The penalty kick shot does not score, and the ball dribbles out of the other two holes. I've checked the mechs and there is no binding, and I've lubed metal on metal contact with WD40 teflon spray.

I do have hole protectors, but I've checked and the lip is nice and smooth.

Does anyone have any other thoughts?

#4692 6 days ago

After a few months of cleaning, bulb replacement, painting, etc. mine is good to go! Plays great and couldn’t be happier with this additional to the collection. I recommend the powder coat on the wireform and skill shot mech.

I could use some new plastics, but don’t see the need yet for $200.

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#4693 6 days ago

I've never been big on mods of any kind, but never really embraced the gold on the wireform, coin toss and legs either. That said, I think the yellow powdercoat looks sensational!
I am considering it myself.

#4694 6 days ago

My world cup just started hitting the GOAL as soon as I start a game? Anyone experience this issue?

#4695 6 days ago

Any clue why flashers and right playfield general illumination wouldn’t light?

Forgive me for the ignorant question as I’m brand new and this is my first machine I’m trying to fix.

#4696 6 days ago
Quoted from rollitover:

I've never been big on mods of any kind, but never really embraced the gold on the wireform, coin toss and legs either. That said, I think the yellow powdercoat looks sensational!
I am considering it myself.

Agreed. I thought the gold looked cheesy. I also swapped out the legs with new Stern black legs.

#4697 6 days ago
Quoted from Grozzlybear:

Any clue why flashers and right playfield general illumination wouldn’t light?
Forgive me for the ignorant question as I’m brand new and this is my first machine I’m trying to fix.

Welcome to the never ending repair of pinball ownership! It shouldn’t be too difficult to fix your problem. If you don’t have a manual for your machine, you can download one here.

https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2811

The gi that is out is probably on one of the molex connectors plugged into the power board in the back box. Look for connectors j115 through j122 to see if any are loose or discolored. They are located near the bottom of the back box, and you will have to lower the speaker panel to get at them. They should be white but often they will start to fail and cause scorching and turn brown. Unplug and plug back in. You can do it with the power on. Sometimes wiggling the plugs will get them to turn the lights back on. Look for wires that have been pulled out of the connectors too.

#4698 5 days ago
Quoted from Jon9508:

Anyone have a used plastic laying around. I need the plastic that goes behind the goal and swings under the left ramp. Trying to avoid buying a whole set or paying a stupid amount on ebay. It's the one covered in white tape.
[quoted image]

That plastic (and the header plastic near the goal) breaks on every WCS. Your chances of finding a used one intact are slim. Just letting you know... you'll likely have to spring for a new one

#4699 5 days ago
Quoted from Archon9000:

That plastic (and the header plastic near the goal) breaks on every WCS. Your chances of finding a used one intact are slim. Just letting you know... you'll likely have to spring for a new one

Thanks. That guy wants 110 shipped for that one and a few randoms. I can get the whole kit for under 200. Seems like that is the best way to go.

#4700 5 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Positive:

I recommend the powder coat on the wireform and skill shot mech.
[quoted image]

Kinda looks like a Data East game now...

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