https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1925-XX

Pricey, but really breathes new life into a machine...

Search this thread. Someone has posted a picture of the part you need before.

Scoot, Outstanding!
You need to come to MN
and do mine.
That looks fantastic!

Thanks seems to be working now--I cleaned off the optos with rubbing alcohol and reseated all the opto board cables. Also found a wire coming off the opto board with some frayed sheathing that might have been touching metal. wrapped that with electrical tape. One or all of those did the trick.

There is a part in the official list that really puzzles me... Here is the list: https://www.ipdb.org/files/2811/Bally_1994_World_Cup_Soccer_Parts_List.txt
the part I'm talking about is 12-6466-17 (ball guide 4 1/4")
Anyone knows where does this part go? (I don't even have it in my WCS 94)
12-6466-17 (4x1inch) (resized).jpg

It was actually pretty quick and easy. I used clear yellow so I only had to mask around the trophy. Using frisket paper allowed me to trace around the trophy with an xacto knife. I cut around the white parts and left them in place. Then I pulled the frisket off the trophy area and painted right over the black. Then I just peeled off the rest exposing the white and the background.

C370287D-0D04-4D9E-AA87-661A2670AD4C (resized).jpeg

493BE606-2105-4B41-9B95-D9BAB5FC936F (resized).jpeg

Road trip!

Man. That looks incredible! Well done!

Bring it!

someone say "brisket"? mmm.

I'd say somebody's hungry.

I think I know exactly where that would go. Look at the left outline where the ball save is. I have two holes in the playfield where I think that would go. Mine does not have one.

Mine has one. Didn’t measure length “, but it looks to be what your referencing.

025E2C77-6C01-495D-9870-5BDCAAF3CB1D (resized).jpeg

Thank you Scoot & Pinzap!!! I also have the holes but not the wireform in my WCS pinball... Another part for me to buy!

One more "Find the part location" question.

In the same list ( https://www.ipdb.org/files/2811/Bally_1994_World_Cup_Soccer_Parts_List.txt )
Under the subcategory "557 1 50031-PL world cup playfield assy 1" there are two 23-6534-3 (rubber protector 1 1/2)
...and there are two more under the subcategory "2208 .2 50031-F world cup-common final assy 1"
Anyone knows where do these four rubber protectors go? (I don't even have it in my WCS 94 - I suspect to protect the backglass or pf glass)
large (resized).JPG

There is one I think at the left ramp on the outside. Above the tackle light / switch
https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=2811&picno=43244&zoom=1

Yes I can see it, but what purpose does it serve? protection of the ramp from airballs?
Moreover, maybe there is another one on the right ramp?

I have wondered the same thing. It must be for protection since my soccer ball will throw my ball around violently sometimes. But if that was the case you would think it would be a bit bigger or extend up the ramp more.

9E208374-991A-4C5D-9B7C-EF42B49B4429 (resized).jpeg

Got to the front today. It’s not perfect but looks much better for sure.

A8526EA7-1CCF-4794-81AA-F413081EEDC1 (resized).jpeg

546DD9EE-86CF-43E5-8943-4D4E1A82C167 (resized).jpeg

B68D1C75-49FA-4259-8AF9-E9DFF33A2E64 (resized).jpeg

...there he goes again

Awesome! I wish I had that kind of talent...

Minnesota's beautiful in the wintertime Scoot.
...just sayin'

Looks to be placed there to prevent stuck balls that might otherwise settle alongside the ramp, trapped by the nut and the ramp in the little space between the two.

That is the exact reason I am guessing b/c on my game that piece is broken/missing and the ball gets stuck there every 50 games or so if I had to guess.

***Dumb question alert***

For those of you that have done the LED strips that light the stadium lights on the upper part of the playfield; How did you run these and where did you attach the strip? I bought some assuming it would be pretty straight forward install but as I am looking, I don't know how to tackle it. It would seem the best bet to mount them would be the underside of the back box towards the playfiled, but if I do, it would not be able to be connected to one of the GI bulbs like I had planned.

Thanks in advance for any help!

Not at all a dumb question. Most of these strips are 12v and plug into the back box where f117? is and shares it’s power with the 12v unregulated power supply. Simple install under the plastic glass channel attached to the back near the head. But with World Cup, you have to install it further back under the head and closer to the fake stadium lights decal to give it the effect you are looking for. Also it sounds like you have 6.3v strips which would hook up to a GI bulb. If this is the case, you will want to run the wiring from under the head where your strips are, into the black, large wire tube holder and along all the rest of the wires back up to the playfield for a neat install. This will require probably more wire than you have so find some appropriate speaker wire and modify. I use alligator clips so I can remove them quickly if needed.

I have a strip that runs the length of the stadium light backboard if my game and taps into the back left GI bulb in the game. Easy peasy.

Finished adding comet LED's to the game tonight. Love the way it looks. Looked so dingy with standard bulbs.

20181124_203918 (resized).jpg

you are correct, incandescents are a joke.

I know it’s a personal thing but cool white or natural white leds look so much better in pinball machines to me. It just makes all the colors in the plastics and on the playfield pop! Nicely done!

depends on the game. comet sunlight whites look great in a POTC, for example. this game, with the teals and purples, screams for naturals.

My strips are attache in a way that they are pointing straight down towards the playfield, and are attached to the main body, not the playfield. As for power, I actually had it come from the back box, simply adding the wire into one of the protective cable tubes.

Here is my original post about it, from about 2 years back:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/world-cup-soccer-94-owners-everyone-welcome/page/49#post-3171200

I added a strip inside the drain hole at the same time, on the top edge of the drain plate (stainless steel), pointing towards the flippers. Those lights, as I recall, get power from near by GI, under the playfield.

Hmm, I’ve been meaning to ask people if they prefer not to LED WCS. I happen to think the game looks great with incandescents, but I’m wondering if I’ll like LEDs better.

Does the playfield have any dark areas when LEDs are used?

I prefer warm white. I get theborigina look, but brighter.

I feel this game is very well lit after changing everything to LED.

I got these off of EBay the other day. I think it turned out nice.

20181124_180401 (resized).jpg

20181125_154158 (resized).jpg

IMG-20181125-WA0000 (resized).jpg

Ok Scoot now you're just showin' off.
Either that or you're outta' control...
or maybe both!

Does anyone have a vector scan of the "free kick" insert and the "lock" insert? If you do it would be much appreciated.

IMG_2659 (resized).JPG

IMG_2660 (resized).JPG

I personally like how bright it makes the game. Makes it look like a new game. The original bulbs look ok but the brightness of the LED's make it pop l.

Thanks to everyone that chimed in on the led strip lights and how to place them and wire them. I knocked it out really quickly and it looks great.

I wanted to offer some information on a potential solution to something that had been bugging me. Some may scoff at over complicating something that needn't be, but I thought it might help someone.

Led's, in my opinion, are beautiful in this game. I used warm white everywhere. No color matching at all, with the exception of bulbs that are in the ramp boards, the coin toss, and the backboard between the field lights and the striker sign, and anywhere else the bulbs were "naked". You could make an argument for cool white, and I think that would look great, especially with the heavy teal colors throughout the game.

The issue for me is, and always has been, when Led-ing any game, is that the current "yellows" from all Led resellers that I have found, are not yellow. They are orange. I had three options.

1.) Keep these particular bulbs incandescent, and use the yellow condoms. This is probably the one that makes the most sense honestly. The issue is my condoms were torn (insert joke here). I didn't want to buy new ones and wait for them. Plus, I am led-ing this to get rid of the old school bulbs.

2.) Led these spots in "yellow" bulbs and live with the fact that they should be called Tang Orange. Never cared for the stuff, and maybe that is part of my problem.

3.) Led these bulbs in your weapon of choice, then awkwardly try to use the condom to cover them. This isn't a great solution as the condoms are not made to fit over the base of the current sized Led's. It ends up looking like a wind sock, and unless you can manipulate them perfectly, it bugs me.

4.) Do the following.

I took 10 (actually a lot more during my trial runs) warm white, frosted, non ghosting, premium bulbs from comet and dipped them in bright yellow acrylic paint. I used Createx Opaque Airbrush paint that I already had, but wal-mart craft acrylic would be fine as well. I simply filled two depressions in a cheap plastic paint palette with the yellow, took a pair of needle nose pliers and dipped them in. I then lightly touched the end of the bulb onto an empty place on the palette (to prevent the dairy queen swirl from too much paint) and then, while holding it in the pliers, stuck the wedge end into mounting tack to dry. After fully drying overnight, I put the bulbs in, and holy $#&@. It is a LEGIT yellow!!! It looks terrific, matches the brightness of the other bulbs in the game and the heat is so minimal in LED's there is no danger from the bulb being over insulated. I may clear coat them with some sort of matte protection, but I am VERY pleased with how they turned out.

I tried to take photos of the machine with both incan's and the modified led's next to each other as it is STARK. The issue is my camera is apparently one step above a potato, as the lights looked nothing like the colors they are. Trust me, when they are on, it is worth the little bit of effort.

The only issue is, and its minor, is the red frosted bulbs on the ramp boards are still white that are right above the now yellow bulbs. This is worth it to me. I just thought I would offer it up.
Drying (resized).pngTrial runs (resized).png

Yeah yellow LEDs suck.

I also hate the way yellow leds look. Have you ever tried to put yellow leds in a yellow insert? Yuck! I found frosted pink wonderful in yellow inserts.

Never thought of painting leds to get the color I want. Hmmm.

no dice with yellow LED's.

If anyone is looking to trade out their WCS near Cincinnati, I have a Baywatch I could trade towards. Of course, cash can be added depending on variables.

Agreed. I always stick with white in inserts but I'll have to try that. It truly is lit mega yellow when you paint them. No doubt about it. I tired brushing it on first and it looked like a hot mess. Dipping is the way to go.

Greetings! When buying a WCS, what should I be looking for? Anything particularly fragile in this game?

I read that the free-throw arm is unobtanium?

About to go see one for sale. Thanks guys! Cheers!

Look the ramps over well, the big one has yet to be remade. Look the boards over, especially the gi lighting section for crispy connectors. The saucers will almost certainly have wear; I mylared mine, or pop a cliffy in if it bothers you. It definitely has a lot going on and is packed with "stuff", but has been running reliably for me since I picked mine up.

Also do not worry over the soccer ball noise.
They run loud. Believe it or not you do become accustomed to it over time.

Thanks guys! I was told the GI connectors are a little fried.

If the game was switched to LEDs, that should ease the cooking of the connectors, correct?

Should I then worry about them if all lights work?

Awesome tips. Thanks.

Never really noticed the soccer ball noise because it's always loud where I've played it. Is it loud because of lower gearing?
Are there gears I should be mindful of?

If your soccer ball motor is loud you may be able to quiet it down a little by loosening/tightening the hex screw that attach the ball motor bracket to the playfield. When I say adjust... I mean a 1/4 turn at a time.

For the backboard I used frosted warm whites instead of yellow, I figure it looks a little bit closer to the color of HPS stadium lights.