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Attaches to the left side of the right ramp and hugs the ball.

I'm not in front of my machine, but it's definitely on the left side of the right ramp. Put the holes parallel to the floor with the part that juts out on either side of the soccer ball and line it up with the holes. There should be 2 hex screws holding it down tight.

Nope - that was old WMS stock of a prototype playfieild. I bought it, which is why it's out of stock. Heh. (Study it, you'll see a LOT of changes.. And if you're curious about any, let me know. I can get a better pic.)

I know some sample games still had the numbers, and was wondering how many were out there.

If I remember correctly, you can go into adjustments and change the kickback settings so that you can save 3 kickbacks, and each of those lights signifies one kickback left. I assume it was originally going to be a default setting, thus the old artwork?

That's my guess!
Interestingly, though, in at least the latest revision of WCS, the numbers are backwards. When you have 'one' kickback left, only the number "3" is lit. Have 2 kickbacks? "3" and "2" are lit. Heh.

When I was at the arcade where my sample TZ was, we later got a sample WCS. And I could swear that the inserts had numbers - but didin't notice any other differences. (Like the 4th Striker target, "Ultra-Ball" lightning insert, etc.)

Generally speaking, what’s the difference between a prototype and a sample?

Ah, super interesting score!

The things I know off-hand include:
Vastly different playfield colors - Earth has different colors. Large 'GOAL' insert is Green. Tackle was three standup targets. A 4th 'STRIKER' target between TV and right ramp entrance. LOCK inserts had a 'hole' in the ball. No 'Ultra-Goalie', instead it was 'Ultra-Ball'. Related, there is a routed mount for a prox sensor on the underside of the playfield beat the soccer ball. No 'award' red flags on City inserts. Different color inlane inserts. Two extra switches were in the Travel loop on the right side of the PF (one above where the pop-bumpers enter, one under). The numbers on the Kickback inserts.

There was a gate switch on the upper ramp up above the pop-bumpers - when activated it gave you an award for a ramp shot. (Switch was removed, code was added to ROM to award a ramp if ramp entry switch is activated, then a pop bumper is activated.) The Ramp signs had a larger cutout for the 'Light Jackpot' bulbs. (Come of this you can see in the game's gallery here on Pinside. Someone posted pics from a prototype game.)

The software - prod versions - have code to handle some things: (1) The 4th Striker target. If the game sees it active, it will award a Striker letter. (2) The two right Travel loop switches will award a small amount of points, nothing else. (3) The upper ramp exist switch will award a 'complete' ramp shot, instead of awarding it when the ball falls and hits a pop bumper.

My goal is to get the playfield cleared, find a WCS that's in 'ok' condition, and put the proto playfield in. (To make a 'proto-prototype' game. So to speak.)

Perfect got it . Thanks

For those curious, since I got a couple PMs about it..

Ultra Ball insert. Also note the color of the land on the earth behind the ref girl.
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Notice the colors used on the world, and the missing flags from the cities.
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Notice the 4th Striker target. And the design on the 'BUILD' insert. (Notice the 'clear' panel in the soccerball.)
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The green 'GOAL' insert, and at the bottom, the seperate tackle standups. Also note the different 'Extra Ball' insert.
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For anyone wondering, and for the person who asked about the 31-1925A-3 plastic a lot of posts ago...
After thinking about its position on the playfield for a couple of days, I finally had a dream last night that gave me the answer. (In the past I have solved mathematic problems during dreaming time)
This piece of clear plastic must go around the left jet bumper cap, and under the A-18775 Striker Board Assembly (Under "Header" Plastic). Its round shape initially threw me off thinking that it must go around the soccer ball...
What do you think?
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Had an issue with my game and decided to do a video on it...

I am so happy to join the club! Thanks to herbertbsharp for the easy sale today. He even let me play a few other machines he had. What a great guy!

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Can someone help? I am looking for a metal piece to go at the end of the plastic ramps. I don’t have a manual yet (one is on order) but I would like to see if anyone can identify this part. I have looked on Marco and a few other sites but with no luck. It is like a L bracket to protect the ramps and help secure it to a post. Thanks for any help.

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Manual here:

https://www.ipdb.org/files/2811/Bally_1994_World_Cup_Soccer_Manual.pdf

Hi, Does anyone have a real nice original WCS translite that they would be willing to sell? I am in need of one, as mine is quite damaged. I would need it shipped to Canada, Thanks for your consideration!!

I don't have one but you could get a 90% match in that part in pretty much any off the shelf erector set building toy.

Would a scan do?

Hi, Thanks for the offer, I would like to just buy a nice one and install it.

Hi to all i just started a wcs94 led convertion but i wanto to do it without a specific kit. I have difficoult in finding right light. I know GI and insert are 555 or 44 6,3 v ac led. I do not know 906 and 89 flashers led voltage. Please help me if you can.
If soneaone want to shere with my ther color setup and led model i'm very happy.

Don’t change the flashers to LED. Way too intense. But if you must they are 12v.

I just put together a video on my machine to show to someone out of state who is considering trading my WCS for his JP. Anyways, here is a 20 minute Youtube tour of the machine for anybody that wants way too much information on a specific machine from the inside to the outside.

Two things to know about this potential swap:

DE parts are harder to find and more expensive than Williams parts.
Make DAMN SURE that that T-REX works because that thing is a PAIN to service.

And that WCS94 is a much more awesome game.

Ehh, WCS is probably a better GAME but JP is a cool theme with alot going on and heavy 90's nostalgia. Value wise I'd imagine it's pretty close to a push so condition, condition, condition and whatever makes the players happier.

Finally finished shopping out my WCS94. Here's a small little mod that I made to pretty up the ramp junction.

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So I'm making a trade Friday if all goes well and will be joining the club. Thing is the deal seems a little shaky and I'm not getting a warm fuzzy feeling. He is bringing it to me and I have not played it yet. I plan on playing it and looking it over first before he leaves with mine but my question is this, what known issues should I look for that could end up costing me big money. He rates the playing field as a 9/10 and cabinet as 8/10. It has some leds and he said all the magnets and magna save works. Any help would be greatly appreciated

Take your time and look everything over. The ramps are impossible to get so make sure the ramps are in good shape and that the ramp diverters work. Slide off the glass and lift the playfield. Look in the back box and make sure there are no crazy hack jobs and the battery holder is clean. Put the machine in switch mode and check every switch. And play several games. Expect some wear around the holes, broken plastics near the pops, and the soccer ball may be loud. It’s a great game so good luck.

I just did a 20 minute walk through video of my machine

. I paid $2750 for it but have about $700 in it getting it up to 100%. You could ask them for a video like this to get you a warm and fuzzy. I'm working on a trade involving 8 hours in the car so this is a decent way to protect both parties. This is/was my first machine and I have had to fix several things. However, nothing was really all that difficult to fix. The motors for pretty much everything, along with the plastics for pretty much everything (except the ramps) seem to be for sale. You can easily replace the ball, ball motor, ramp diverter, plastics, or decals without too much hassle. If it was me, I'd focus my attention on their being as little wear as possible around the pop out holes, and that the game was complete. The problems I've had (and fixed) with my machine since I got it were related to the connectors on the backbox not being properly seated and having to repin some of those (like 20 cents each). I also had the noisy soccer ball motor which I ordered a replacement for, but ended up fixing on my own. I found that the grease in it was 25 years old, I cleaned out the old stuff and put some new lithium grease in it. After some trial and error I found that the screws holding it in were too tight. By far the biggest PIA on my machine is the diverter ramp. I got mine tuned, but beware that every-time you remove the ramps (not easy), you have to replace and re-tune that thing. Overall it is a very fun game. to answer your very first question, the cabinet, playfield, and ramps are your primary things to look at for condition... everything else can be replaced.

Here are some of the pictures he sent so far. See anything funny?

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Looks good to me. A little wear around the pop out holes like every other machine in the archives. The kick plastic is cracked by the right pop bumper. Also common and a $25 fix.

Thanks everyone for the help. If this deal would have moved a little smoother I would be less wary but all the help has been great. This game has been at the top of my wish list and I am anxious and nervous because I am new to this and he is not local and I don't want to get burned.

The left ramp is cracked and beat up at the entrance. The right ramp return at the right inane is broken. That a $75 ramp if you need a new one and can find one. Not possible to find one of the big main ramps.

It’s looks very nice. Also a possibility cracked broken plastic ramp, next to right flipper mount. First pic.

What are you trading for it?

I don't know what I am looking for so I will defer to you knowledge. With what you see is this common or should I stay away from this?

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Nah it doesn’t seem like it will affect gameplay and the left ramp entrance should have metal guides that protect it anyway. Just pointing it out. The ramp exit over the right inlane may cause issues if you tray and take the ramp off and put it back on. The tab that connects to the post that holds it up is busted so it will be hard to screw it back down.

Thanks, you know it's only a short 3.5 hrs drive to my place if you want to swing up here Friday and be a buddy and look over this for me. Need ya here by 7pm. Thanks in advance.

I would if I could brother. Hey at least they are coming to you. So much easier to say no thanks. You don’t have to do anything but look it over and say yay or nay.

I’ve done parking lot trades where neither of us could really look over the game.

it will make it nice. I will be playing a number of games before I load mine up in his van.

hi, did you find the boar a-18495? my wcs94 is missing too.

Are you producing any more of these? I’d be keen for one cheers

I made those a few years ago and just now got around to installing it, but I'll see if I can track down the STL file and send it to you. It'd likely be cheaper to have them etched and cut in Australia than for me to ship you an extra. I used 1mm PETG and had to double up the plastics to get a strong enough connection.

That question again...sort of

Does anybody have a list of Colored (or white) LED Flashers for WCS94?

My machine is folded up and not working currently so I can't really check

I'm looking at a LED website and they want $45 for the playfield and backbox flashers kits, which is their equivalent cost of 35 colored flashers...

Thanks!

BobC

Finally in the club as of tonight!

You, my friend, get an
'atta boy!
Enjoy

Hey Bob! I'll try to get out there and count, but it's a bunch, upwards of 20. I'm still using incandescent flashers on mine but the rest is all LED'd.

Just picked mine up and joined the club! It’s my first machine and needs a deep cleaning. I’m tearing down the field and I have a question: given that the ramps have wiring through them, I’m assuming that you disconnect the wiring in the back. Is that the correct way to take the ramps out of the game I presume? Forgive me for the ignorant question...

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Not an ignorant question at all. I made a quick youtube video trying to answer your question. WCS is/was my first machine and I'm only a few months ahead of you.

I am assuming you know the following.

1. Unplug the machine
2. You already know how to take out the glass and lift the playfield.
3. Remove the balls before lifting the playfield.
4. Take pictures of all steps for reference
5. Never overtighten metal parts onto plastic parts.

Anyways... here's the 5 minute answer to your question.

Thank you for the reference! Got it all torn down with rubbers replaced, play field cleaned and parts ordered. Is the goalie trough and ball return trough (at the bottom of the machine) the same part?
01-12334 bracket
A-17742 trough assembly