I just picked up a wcs and am going through it. I love this game and am very happy to finally own one.

Does anyone have or can you take a detailed picture of the goalie switch with the white and green wire right behind the goalie. I'm having trouble locating the switch wiring or any diagram that can help me in which way the diode is directed and the soldering of which wires go to which leaf.

Thanks in advance! Once I get this switch wired properly, I think I'll be able to actually play this game!

+1 on re-seating your ribbon cables. I recently had a mounting number of weird issues with my STTNG (including symptoms that I attributed to weak power) and in the end it turned out to be related to the ribbon cables. Just pull each connector off and on three times and see if that helps.

Pic from manual and from actual game... you should be good to go

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Hey guys,

Trying to find the pn for this white sleeve, it's used all over the playfield and most of mine are pretty roached out. I couldn't identify it in the parts list on ipdb..... any help appreciated.

Thanks.

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I can't confirm 100%... but this seems like it's it :
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8371

Can someone give me a price range machines in different conditions for WCS 94?

Beat to hell doesn’t work - 1700
Beat to hell works (unshopped) - 2k-2400
Nicer players condition - 2400-2700
Above average - 2700-3000
Really nice - 3k plus.

Yup, I think that's it. Thanks.

Excellent breakdown. Kudos to you for the thought behind this!

I have isolated the problem (it's the soccer motor) and now have a (mostly) playable game. I tried unplugging and plugging in all connections/ribbon cables in the back box with no luck. If you ever have the issue described above, it is a "slow burn fuse" blowing out. You can buy replacements at home depot (5 for 2 or 4 dollars). After switching out all the 25 year old gnarly looking fuses, the machine fired up and worked beautifully... until I started to play and it started wigging out (errors, great sho, great sh, grea, gre, gre, lines in screen, screen turns off). What I have figured out is that the F116 fuse is slowly blowing out, letting less juice through and causing the errors before machine death. The fuse looks good, but it is slow burn so you can't tell 100% from a visual inspection. Page 1-45 of the manual labels that fuse as "12v secondary". If I unplug the wires I had reseated re-pinned (J120/J121) the machine still crashes when I play. However, if I unplug the soccer ball everything works fine. So I have isolated the problem to the soccer motor and will have to troubleshoot on that over the next few days.

I am open to suggestions on troubleshooting steps for a ball motor that suddenly started blowing fuses.

There is more resistance to it than I remember and it feels like it starts/stops when I manually push it. I am going to try taking it apart and taking some of the lithium grease out of it I put in last week and see if that makes a difference. I also have a new (but loud) replacement motor and gear box I may be forced to put on there. O well. Once that is fixed I really want to get my coin door lights working, and then only a couple of cracked/missing plastics stand between me and a 100% machine.

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I would be hesitant with a ton of grease in that motor/gearbox. I would clean everything out that I could (clean with a solvent), then re-lube with a dry-lube like a super light coating of graphite spray. Maybe even a very light coating of bee's/candle wax. Something that will fill the gaps in the machining to provide a "cushion", but not breakdown or attract dirt.

IMHO, you are asking for trouble using a "wet"-lube there. It will attract dust/grime, which will cause binding. The tolerances of the gearing on mine don't seem to be super tight, certainly not "precision machined".

Think of it this way: It's a small, 1/100000th h.p. motor turning a 3 oz plastic half sphere, not a tractor trailer differential.

I am glad you are getting everything figured out. That's half the fun!

Got the topside of my WCS pretty much tore down, all the replacement parts on order (rubbers/star posts/flippers) so it's time to start cleaning. I was thinking about sending the metal ball guide through the media blaster and was wondering if anyone has done this. The finish blaster at work isn't very aggressive and did a pretty good job of cleaning up a scoop I tried it on. It certainly doesn't come out looking polished and I lack the patience and carpal endurance to polish them by hand. It did come out with a nice even matte finish though, which i think is an improvement over the unevenly worn finish they are currently in. Sorry, I don't have a before pic but here's what it looked like after.

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You can try a media blaster if you want but this is the result of using the rough side of a kitchen sponge.

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Do the 3 stadium lights just stay on all of the time, or do they flash once in a while? Mine just stay on. Thanks

Stay on, they're part of the GI

Thank you RatShack!

I took your advice and cleaned out most of the extra lube I threw in there with some Q-tips. She fired up and the actual playfield is working 100% now.

The only electronic thing I have left to fix is the coin door. Does anybody else that has the 3 coin door front have one with lights in the orange boxes on the door? I have bulbs in there, have switched them out, reseated wiring, and done every basic troubleshooting step tracing it back to the coin door control panel to get it working with no luck. Does anyone have any troubleshooting tips on this? There is not something simple like a dip-switch or an option in a menu somewhere you have to go through to turn the lights on in here.

Other than the coin door lights, I am going to change out the mechanisms to say "quarter" purely for cosmetic reasons... add a third coin mech and add a couple of missing plastics to my machine. I will order some new rubbers for when I do a proper teardown/cleaning in a few months, but other than that the machine is at 100% thanks in large part to tips received here! When you are down to the coin door lights it's pretty much perfect!

On to enjoying this machine for another year or so until I can switch it out for what I really want (probably AFMse or STTNG).

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Use your DMM to see if you have VAC on the coin door bulb sockets. If you have 7-8 VAC then you need to trace your ground. If you don't have VAC on the bulb sockets then you need to trace your current. If you are savvy enough you can alligator clip some jumper wires to another GI line and ground to see if the bulbs light up or not. Happy hunting.

Can you fill me in on your acronyms... DMM and VAC?

Thanks! I'll start working on it tonight!

Digital MultiMeter - DMM
Voltage Alternating Current - VAC

I find with the coin door lights it’s often flaky solders at the sockets. Do all your service buttons and coin switches work otherwise?

Also, maybe a little sanding and spray paint if it’s worn, new inserts, return buttons (or just some good cleaning) and slots and that will still be a perfectly serviceable coin door, I did the same with my CFTBL coin door and it’s not perfect, but it looks fine to me!

I love my WCS and I also love Pinside for all of this help in this thread lately! Kudos to all you guys helping out. Great to see all of this activity lately here in this thread the past few weeks. THIS is why you go on pinside. Have a great weekend everyone!

Can someone help me out with a goalie plastic? My son destroyed it this week (he likes the game that much).
They all seem sold out. Preferred in Europe but USA is ok too (have paypal).

I have the NOS decal so only needed the 'rubber style' plastic

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Tech posting that should help you :
https://www.maaca.org/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=23835

You are my hero. I jumped 119 and 121 with some wires and the coin door lit up instantly! I might actually fix the power driver board some day but I think the speaker wire I have in there right now will be plenty to light up 3 LEDs for now. Thank you for putting up that link!

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Awesome!
Looks so much nicer in the dark with those coin door lights!

Hey all WCS fans,
stripped down the playfield & now re building it back up & noticed i have 1 of wood screw with top # 02-4426-2 overall length 2'1/16,
all the others are the shorter ones, its the one on the left, any help what the location is would be great full, TIA

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It was totally worth 2 hours of my time to disassemble the coin door and replace the antiquated 1/3/5 DM signs and coin entrances from my imported machine to Quarter signs... totally worth it...

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haha, now just be sure to set the game to US pricing and use US coin mechs...even though it's on freeplay and probably will be forever...

I did the exact same thing on a Guns N' Roses that was reimported, took me forever to figure it out with all the different styles of coin mechs/world pricing schemas. Even though it will probably never be "on route" again, I JUST HAD TO KNOW it was right, and that all the lighting was correct and working, lol

Glad you got everything figured out. And trust me, you'll have another machine in shortime now that you have all the bugs on this one worked out. I ALMOST enjoy troubleshooting/working on machines more at this point than playing them, and I'm a pretty serious competitive player, haha. It's like a logic problem that you can play after...

Amateurs! I still pay for my games!

I made a new goalie this morning. If my memory serves me right, I used some scrap HDPE that I had around the shop to get this done. It is sturdy and flexible enough to withstand the ball hits. My guy is printing me a new goalie sticker this afternoon so I'll post those photos later.

If this works out well, I can make you a goalie.

Thanks a ton! This got my goalie switch working so I could replace the goalie.

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looks great! But ordered from Australia on tuesday where it still was in stock (seemed to be the only place in the world)..
You should make a few though, as there must be demand.

I even would grabe a spare if they are not too expensive with the shipping incl.

What are your strategies on this machine? Now that I have my very own pinball machine up to 100%, I've been putting a lot of games on it. I seem to be consistently at around the 2 billion mark. My strategy is as follows, what is yours?

1. Immediately hit the ball in the goal to get the noisy motors to stop.
2. Try to immediately hit it in Spot's Hideout... which seems to give an extra ball if hit early.
3. Hit the ramps until the lock is lit.
4. Hit the T.V. award and do the big goal round, which will give you enough points to light the extra ball round.
5. Hit the T.V. award for the extra ball round.
6. Get the extra ball from Spot's Hideout.
7. Hit the ball in the lock.
8. Hit the final draw... score as much as possible.
9. Hit the ramps and do everything to light the soccer ball again quickly.
10. Hit final draw multi-ball.
11. Repeat steps 9-10 as many times as possible... while doing this you will slowly make your way up the "World Cup" cities.
12. Make sure and grab the extra ball from city progress.
13. Hit the Los Angeles game as soon as lit.
14. Repeat steps 9-10 as many times as possible until you can hit number 13 again.

I have only gotten to LA once, but I get obscene points from the multi-balls. If done properly you should get a 6 ball game, several multiballs, the second and third of which you should be able to do victory laps for mega points.

Tip: When in the Final Draw multiball, you can hit the extra ball button one time per multiball to re-light the jackpot instead of hitting a ramp.

Just my thoughts.

R Ramp L Ramp Spinner. You'll be facing Germany in no time.

I got 11 goals in the final yesterday, seemed pretty good.

pretty much, haha...

still a perennial favorite of mine however. And I HATE soccer!

I agree with everything except I tend to get final draw multi-ball more often so that is a little higher up for me. If you get final draw multi-ball a 3rd time you play Germany for #1 so that helps with scoring. $5.2B is my best score in the six months I had the game, board is $3.9B

My personal best is 6 Bil on tournament mode and no extra balls. I do left ramp until it diverts to the left flipper then shoot the striker hole.

Do that until MB is ready. Start MB.

Rinse repeat until you’re close to the World Cup final. Then play that.

and it's not "Spot"
it's Striker
another name for a forward
in football/soccer circles.
just an fyi

Spinner, spinner, spinner also works.

This is true!

I have figured out how to make the ball motor dead quiet! After a lot of messing around with it, I discovered that my problem wasn't lube, but the tightness of the screws on the motor. If they are too tight (the phillips head ones), the gears will grind, it will be noisy, and there can be enough resistance to blow a fuse. If you have a noisy motor, lift the table up and spin the ball while adjusting the screws. You should be able to hear a clear difference in volume. My motor is now dead quiet. The goalie is noisey, but the ball motor makes no noise.

The only thing that's bugging me on my machine now is my darn diverter ramp. I had it perfect, but after taking apart the machine to put in new rubbers, I can't get it dialed back in. I understand I can sort of turn the spring in and out, but it doesn't really seem to make a difference. About once a game the ball will drain because it meets resistance on the ramp and it's driving me nuts. Anyone got any tips?

New rubbers make a world of difference! I'm pretty sure some of the old one's were originals as they came off like chewed gum... It made a huge difference in the game's feel. I got 5 billion points last night after 3 or 4 games.

All in all I'm really loving the machine. As this is a one pin house for the moment I will be enjoying this until early next year, and probably switching out for a Jurassic Park. Thanks for all the help folks.

Loosen the Allen set screws and play with how far the diverter rod goes through the pawl. You want it so there is no binding when the plunger for the coil goes in and out. Should be really smooth. Once you find the sweet spot, retighten.

Took me forever to get mine dialed in.

Silly question... where are the allen screws... can you be more specific?

The diverter is what is on the ramp. That diverter attaches to a rod that goes all the way down underneath the playfield. It runs through the “pawl”. That metal pawl is attached to the weird short hard spring. That is attached to the plunger that goes in and out of the coil.

On the side of the pawl is a set screw. That chews into the rod so it holds it into place.

Loosen that to allow you to move the rod up and down.

You might also check if the diverter rod is binding on the ramps. It has to thread through both ramps and the hole in the playfield, and if they aren't lined up just right it can cause friction and prevent it from returning when the solenoid is disabled. If this is the case you can loosen the screws on the ramp and retighten once things look right.

Pop quiz!
How many of you have numbers printed on your three kickback inserts?

I do not. Looks like ipb made some that had numbers on them tho... http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PP&Product_Code=PPS-IPBPF-WCS&Category_Code=PF

Can Anyone give a hand and tell my friend and I where this piece goes in a WCS94? We did a shop job and this is the only piece left and we cannot figure out where it goes. Can anyone help? Thanks

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Next to the soccer ball I think.

As in behind it attached to the right ramp? Is there a picture somewhere showing it?