I finally did it! After almost 20 hour of work I got my World Cup Soccer 94 up to 100%. This is my first pin, and has been a learning experience. I paid 2700$ from someone off of Facebook for a machine that I though was at 100%, minus the "stadium lighting" in the back. Since then I have found more and more things wrong with the machine. I have put in a new soccer ball, put lithium grease in the ball motor (10000% quieter now), replaced all bulbs with LEDs, replaced and fiddled endlessly with the diverter ramp, sanded the ramp, touched up paint, installed new chrome legs that look 10x better than the olds ones, installed wing nuts in the back box, put in new balls, disassembled and polished the playfield, re-soldered some loose connections, rebalanced the machine, re-pinned and re-wired the J120/J121 connectors, and had lots of fun doing it all. With everything said and done I am in at about $3200... much more than I wanted to spend but you live and you learn. If I wanted to be really picky I could say that I needed to fix the coin door lights and replace the missing plastic on the left ramp and the cracked kick plastic, but I'm not there yet. I may get a color DMD and/or new rubber around Christmas time, but those are the only other things you could throw at this machine. I can now play a couple of games a day and hopefully "keep the glass on".
The final steps to fixing the machine were re-wiring the J120/J121 connectors. As a lesson learned, at least on my machine the G.I. lighting was not actually on J120 as stated in the manual. You can confirm this by unplugging J120 and watching the back box go dark while unplugging J121 makes the playfield G.I. lighting go dark. So long as you don't hook anything up to the "key", you can switch the wires around on the J121 connector in order to repair the individual circuits. This is how I finally got the rear G.I. lighting to work without taking the driver board out and re-soldering it. Since the lights have all been replaced with LEDs the load should be much lower and those connections less likely to have future problems.
The ramp diverter was one of the last things to get working 100%. I installed a new diverter with my limited soldering skills, shocked myself about 50 times (even with the machine unplugged, still figuring this out), and figured out that the little spring in there has to be just right in order for the diverter ramp to fully open and close.
All in all this has been a very education experience that I have really enjoyed. Now for the fun pinball part!
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