(Topic ID: 50131)

World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.


By DEWSHO

7 years ago



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There are 5827 posts in this topic. You are on page 89 of 117.
#4401 1 year ago

Slam tilt closed issue solved, when shopping out the game and installing the ramps back on and plugging them in I switched up the two back connectors by accident. Switched them back and no slam tilt error game plays great now. But I do have a Mystery part I can’t seem to remember where it goes. Where does this part go?

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#4402 1 year ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Slam tilt closed issue solved, when shopping out the game and installing the ramps back on and plugging them in I switched up the two back connectors by accident. Switched them back and no slam tilt error game plays great now. But I do have a Mystery part I can’t seem to remember where it goes. Where does this part go?
[quoted image]

it supports the wire form from the goal kickout to the right inlane return. kinda above the pops.

#4403 1 year ago

IMG_1291 (resized).JPG

#4404 1 year ago
Quoted from pacman11:

I only see three slam tilt switches, coin door, underside playfield, and plum bob. Three coorect?

No idea. The only one I can think you may have inadvertently messed with is the one under the playfield while you were hooking stuff back up.

Or you hooked stuff up wrong and caused a switch matrix issue somehow.

Nm. Saw your next post. Nice!

#4405 1 year ago

Still slowly getting machine up to 100%. I found that my wire guide rail looked like garbage under the light of my new LEDs. It looks 10 times better after taking it out and removing the finish with the rough side of a kitchen sponge over the course of an hour or so of TV. If your wire guide looks like garbage, this is a relatively simple fix.

20180903_145519 (resized).jpg
#4406 1 year ago

So I just picked up this title, it's been on my radar for quite a while and was able to work out a trade locally which made things even easier. Game is in decent shape, seen some route in it's life for sure but all in all should clean up nicely. What it really needs is a thorough tear down and shop job including getting rerubbered. I've got the rubber kit on order, trying to find the cliffy's (pm'd cliffy already) and a few other small things I'll do along the way. This will be my first full topside teardown and I'll be going slow and taking pictures of everything along the way. In general I'm just looking for anything from the WCS club that might save me some headaches during the process, any sort of lessons learned/tricks from others who have torn this game down. Any and all suggestions welcome.

Thanks.

#4407 1 year ago
Quoted from flipper_fever76:

So I just picked up this title, it's been on my radar for quite a while and was able to work out a trade locally which made things even easier. Game is in decent shape, seen some route in it's life for sure but all in all should clean up nicely. What it really needs is a thorough tear down and shop job including getting rerubbered. I've got the rubber kit on order, trying to find the cliffy's (pm'd cliffy already) and a few other small things I'll do along the way. This will be my first full topside teardown and I'll be going slow and taking pictures of everything along the way. In general I'm just looking for anything from the WCS club that might save me some headaches during the process, any sort of lessons learned/tricks from others who have torn this game down. Any and all suggestions welcome.
Thanks.

Go here for more pictures.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/world-cup-soccer-94-shop-out-thread#post-3474543

Games not too bad to tear down. Take your time and take a million pictures and put groups of parts into bags.

#4408 1 year ago
Quoted from flipper_fever76:

In general I'm just looking for anything from the WCS club that might save me some headaches during the process, any sort of lessons learned/tricks from others who have torn this game down. Any and all suggestions welcome.

New owner myself as my first pin and going through a (not as thorough process).

1. If your soccer ball motor is noisy, don't replace it. Try removing the motor from the gearbox with a flathead screw driver and squirting the gears full of lithium grease. $5 at Home Depot. Quieted mine. After I had bought a new motor and installed it the new one was much louder than the original.

2. Removing and replacing the ramp is a PIA. I am going to have to do it again because I didn't get the wires from the ramp all the way down through to the underside when replacing them. When you lift the playfield up, look at the absolute bottom right corner and see where the wires come out of the oval shaped hole. Make sure you get the wires back down there all the way before re-attaching the ramp.

3. LEDs look awesome on this, but reconsider putting LEDs in the flasher above the soccer goal.

4. The soccer goalie doesn't always want to move all the way left or right. I've found that the wires hooked up to it tend to get caught on things when opening/closing so take appropriate action.

5. Marco has new soccer balls, if yours is gnarly just replace.

6. Be careful over-tightening screws on the playfield plastics when re-assembling. I cracked one of mine.

Overall its a great game and I'm learning a lot from it as my first pin.

#4409 1 year ago

Thanks, these pics are awesome and just want I needed, glad to hear it isn't too bad of a teardown. I've done my whitewater a few times but not fully cause it looks like a royal pain in the ass.

Quoted from chuckwurt:

Go here for more pictures.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/world-cup-soccer-94-shop-out-thread#post-3474543
Games not too bad to tear down. Take your time and take a million pictures and put groups of parts into bags.

CheesySatan.

New soccer ball/motor already, I ordered some bulk frosted wedges and bayonets from comet so those will be going in. I really like those pop bumper lights chuckwurt put in .....

Its still sitting in the middle of my foyer at the moment, about as unlevelled as you possibly could make it.....girlfriend won't leave it alone.

#4410 1 year ago
Quoted from flipper_fever76:

Thanks, these pics are awesome and just want I needed, glad to hear it isn't too bad of a teardown. I've done my whitewater a few times but not fully cause it looks like a royal pain in the ass.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Go here for more pictures.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/world-cup-soccer-94-shop-out-thread#post-3474543
Games not too bad to tear down. Take your time and take a million pictures and put groups of parts into bags.
CheesySatan.
New soccer ball/motor already, I ordered some bulk frosted wedges and bayonets from comet so those will be going in. I really like those pop bumper lights chuckwurt put in .....
Its still sitting in the middle of my foyer at the moment, about as unlevelled as you possibly could make it.....girlfriend won't leave it alone.

some pics of my teardown here:
https://1drv.ms/f/s!Ahxi0c_5v2PVoPNFRYNZFW2C0-I20A

#4411 1 year ago

Thanks Hisokajp....

Is the sequence of disassembly pretty self explanatory once you start the teardown?

I'm planning on putting the cliffy set in during all this, if i can get it. Has anyone had any issues with the cliffy's making the saucer shots more unreliable/difficult?

#4412 1 year ago
Quoted from flipper_fever76:

I'm planning on putting the cliffy set in during all this, if i can get it. Has anyone had any issues with the cliffy's making the saucer shots more unreliable/difficult?

Yes. Just put Mylar on the edges of the saucers. Protects just as good without the sacrifices in gameplay.

I tore my game down in the order of the pictures I posted in that thread. Started at the right flipper and worked counterclockwise around the game. Put it back together in reverse order.

#4413 1 year ago

Chuckwurt....

best friends (resized).png ....aw man...gif didn't work....you get the idea.

There's some wear around the saucer hole i was hoping to cover with the cliffy's, i guess i'll make that decision once i get it tore down and the playfield cleaned and waxed.

#4414 1 year ago
Quoted from flipper_fever76:

Chuckwurt....
[quoted image] ....aw man...gif didn't work....you get the idea.
There's some wear around the saucer hole i was hoping to cover with the cliffy's, i guess i'll make that decision once i get it tore down and the playfield cleaned and waxed.

Haha. Yeah man up to you. But the cliffys will raise over time and cause you more grief than a little unsightly wear will.

#4415 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Haha. Yeah man up to you. But the cliffys will raise over time and cause you more grief than a little unsightly wear will.

I got the carbon fiber cliffy’s and my WCS has had thousands of plays since (it’s on route) and it’s holding up great. Just sayin’

#4416 1 year ago
Quoted from Brijam:

I got the carbon fiber cliffy’s and my WCS has had thousands of plays since (it’s on route) and it’s holding up great. Just sayin’

Forgot about those. I still prefer the look of clear Mylar. Crazy how well that little piece of thin clear sticky plastic protects a playfield.

#4417 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Forgot about those. I still prefer the look of clear Mylar. Crazy how well that little piece of thin clear sticky plastic protects a playfield.

Yes, I absolutely prefer mylar too. I used the cliffys because there was already substantial ugly wear. Looked like a small beaver had a party.

#4418 1 year ago
Quoted from Brijam:

Yes, I absolutely prefer mylar too. I used the cliffys because there was already substantial ugly wear. Looked like a small beaver had a party.

Haha. Oh wow. Yeah mine wasn’t that bad at all. Just enough to start eating away at the nearby paint. I guess I haven’t had a situation that was bad enough that I wanted the cliffy to cover it.

#4419 1 year ago

Yeah, I ordered the full set that has the carbon fiber ones for the saucer holes. I'm probably gonna go with them, they don't look very easy to remove so if I don't like the way they are playing then I'm just gonna have to suck it up till the next teardown. If the holes were in a little better shape i'd go with the mylar but this is not the case.

#4420 1 year ago

Has anyone ever made an alternative backglass for this machine?

#4421 1 year ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Has anyone ever made an alternative backglass for this machine?

Well... I found these:

ebay.com link » World Cup Soccer Pinball Alternate Translite 3 Versions

Trans1 (resized).PNGTrans2 (resized).PNGTrans3 (resized).PNG
#4422 1 year ago

And this is very cool as well!

ebay.com link » Pinball World Cup Soccer Wcs Goalie Mod

#4423 1 year ago

In one of my most recent videos I decided to use my WCS as the subject to show those in need of info on how to clean and wax your playfield.

#4424 1 year ago

Dumb question....am I missing something? Both flippers are dead when I start a game. Fuses are good and there is no message about the coin door being open.??

#4425 1 year ago
Quoted from JodyG:

Dumb question....am I missing something? Both flippers are dead when I start a game. Fuses are good and there is no message about the coin door being open.??

This might help: https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Flipper_does_not_work

Did you do any work on it lately?

Josh

#4426 1 year ago

No work lately... Looks like the coils have voltage and neither flipper optos register in the switch edge test. I'll have to investigate farther tomorrow.

#4427 1 year ago
Quoted from JodyG:

No work lately... Looks like the coils have voltage and neither flipper optos register in the switch edge test. I'll have to investigate farther tomorrow.

Check your connections to the boards. I had this happen on my WCS and that's what it was, but my flipper optos worked.

#4428 1 year ago
Quoted from JodyG:

No work lately... Looks like the coils have voltage and neither flipper optos register in the switch edge test. I'll have to investigate farther tomorrow.

I think the opto boards are daisy chained, so it might just be the connector on one side isn't making good contact and is taking both of them out.

I just had a problem where my right flipper wasn't registering, and I swear reseating the left opto board connector solved the problem.

#4429 1 year ago

Fixed... When I went to pull the one fuse on the opto board to meter it, the end came off it. So I replaced it and now everything works. Thanks!

#4430 1 year ago

I finally did it! After almost 20 hour of work I got my World Cup Soccer 94 up to 100%. This is my first pin, and has been a learning experience. I paid 2700$ from someone off of Facebook for a machine that I though was at 100%, minus the "stadium lighting" in the back. Since then I have found more and more things wrong with the machine. I have put in a new soccer ball, put lithium grease in the ball motor (10000% quieter now), replaced all bulbs with LEDs, replaced and fiddled endlessly with the diverter ramp, sanded the ramp, touched up paint, installed new chrome legs that look 10x better than the olds ones, installed wing nuts in the back box, put in new balls, disassembled and polished the playfield, re-soldered some loose connections, rebalanced the machine, re-pinned and re-wired the J120/J121 connectors, and had lots of fun doing it all. With everything said and done I am in at about $3200... much more than I wanted to spend but you live and you learn. If I wanted to be really picky I could say that I needed to fix the coin door lights and replace the missing plastic on the left ramp and the cracked kick plastic, but I'm not there yet. I may get a color DMD and/or new rubber around Christmas time, but those are the only other things you could throw at this machine. I can now play a couple of games a day and hopefully "keep the glass on".

The final steps to fixing the machine were re-wiring the J120/J121 connectors. As a lesson learned, at least on my machine the G.I. lighting was not actually on J120 as stated in the manual. You can confirm this by unplugging J120 and watching the back box go dark while unplugging J121 makes the playfield G.I. lighting go dark. So long as you don't hook anything up to the "key", you can switch the wires around on the J121 connector in order to repair the individual circuits. This is how I finally got the rear G.I. lighting to work without taking the driver board out and re-soldering it. Since the lights have all been replaced with LEDs the load should be much lower and those connections less likely to have future problems.

The ramp diverter was one of the last things to get working 100%. I installed a new diverter with my limited soldering skills, shocked myself about 50 times (even with the machine unplugged, still figuring this out), and figured out that the little spring in there has to be just right in order for the diverter ramp to fully open and close.

All in all this has been a very education experience that I have really enjoyed. Now for the fun pinball part!

20180909_202344 (resized).jpg20180909_202409 (resized).jpg
#4431 1 year ago

play it!

yeah, i've learned there will be something wrong with every new pin you get, no matter what the ad or person on here says.

#4432 1 year ago

You're right, chrome legs look fantastic!
Where did you get them?
Thanks.

#4433 1 year ago
Quoted from rollitover:

You're right, chrome legs look fantastic!
Where did you get them?
Thanks.

http://www.thepinballwizard.net/

LEGS-0001 Chrome Legs - Ribbed - Set of 4 #A-19514 Williams/Bally $49.95
(Not Taxable) 1 $49.95
BOLT-0003 Extended Chrome Leg Bolt - 2-3/4" $0.63
(Not Taxable) 8 $5.04
LGLV-0001 Heavy Duty 3" Leg Leveler with Tightening Nut $0.98
(Not Taxable) 4 $3.92

#4434 1 year ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

http://www.thepinballwizard.net/
LEGS-0001 Chrome Legs - Ribbed - Set of 4 #A-19514 Williams/Bally $49.95
(Not Taxable) 1 $49.95
BOLT-0003 Extended Chrome Leg Bolt - 2-3/4" $0.63
(Not Taxable) 8 $5.04
LGLV-0001 Heavy Duty 3" Leg Leveler with Tightening Nut $0.98
(Not Taxable) 4 $3.92

So much better than the original (or what came with mine)

20180825_143346 (resized).jpg
#4435 1 year ago

Awesome
Gracias

#4436 1 year ago

All black is the way to go imo. I’d like to get the legs and rails and lock bar all powdered the same black.

#4437 1 year ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

http://www.thepinballwizard.net/
LEGS-0001 Chrome Legs - Ribbed - Set of 4 #A-19514 Williams/Bally $49.95
(Not Taxable) 1 $49.95
BOLT-0003 Extended Chrome Leg Bolt - 2-3/4" $0.63
(Not Taxable) 8 $5.04
LGLV-0001 Heavy Duty 3" Leg Leveler with Tightening Nut $0.98
(Not Taxable) 4 $3.92

Mine came with the original Gold legs like on the flyer. But after all these years, the shine is definitely off. Not sure if I polish them or replace them.
My other games have new chrome, so WCS was released like IJ or TAFG with the Gold legs.

#4438 1 year ago

Disrupting the thread again for a game of "Name this Part!" I found this in my WCS. Not sure if it belongs, so I seek the group wisdom once more:

IMG_2471 (resized).JPGIMG_2472 (resized).JPG
#4439 1 year ago

Need help with wiring please. I've recently reinstalled the backbox and now having problems with 3 connectors. The connectors are keyed but doesn't help in this situation. J116, J117, and J118 are the board designations I'm having problems with. The picture below will hopefully help. One connector is part of the DMD cable set. One connector is part of the cable set that connects to J119 (purple - white/purple). The third cable is coming out of the vinyl tubing by itself. Please help. I only need 2 out the 3 to figure this out.

wiring problem (resized).jpg
#4440 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

All black is the way to go imo. I’d like to get the legs and rails and lock bar all powdered the same black.

Cw, I have known you for a very long time here on Pinside, and I have agreed with you on virtually everything. BUT this time dude, the black legs look so very pedestrian, whereas the chrome, while matching the rails and the lock-down,
look sensational!
C'mon, seriously.
Maybe you need to see them side by side?

#4441 1 year ago
Quoted from wombat:

Need help with wiring please. I've recently reinstalled the backbox and now having problems with 3 connectors. The connectors are keyed but doesn't help in this situation. J116, J117, and J118 are the board designations I'm having problems with. The picture below will hopefully help. One connector is part of the DMD cable set. One connector is part of the cable set that connects to J119 (purple - white/purple). The third cable is coming out of the vinyl tubing by itself. Please help. I only need 2 out the 3 to figure this out.
[quoted image]

This should help

Screenshot_20180910-232358_Drive (resized).jpg
#4442 1 year ago
Quoted from jbovenzi:

Disrupting the thread again for a game of "Name this Part!" I found this in my WCS. Not sure if it belongs, so I seek the group wisdom once more:[quoted image][quoted image]

They go over the coin switches on the bottom of the coin door.

#4443 1 year ago
Quoted from Archon9000:

This should help
[quoted image]

Thanks for the input Archon - must appreciated! It appears that J116 and J118 are basically interchangeable. It wont hurt any electronics if those are switched. One is for the playfield and the other is for the cabinet. Is, "cabinet" (J118) referring to the backbox?

#4444 1 year ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

They go over the coin switches on the bottom of the coin door.

Thank you very much gunstarhero!

#4445 1 year ago
Quoted from rollitover:

Cw, I have known you for a very long time here on Pinside, and I have agreed with you on virtually everything. BUT this time dude, the black legs look so very pedestrian, whereas the chrome, while matching the rails and the lock-down,
look sensational!
C'mon, seriously.
Maybe you need to see them side by side?

I know I’m in the minority. I’ve yet to see a game with chrome on it that I like. Always looks out of place to me.

#4446 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I know I’m in the minority. I’ve yet to see a game with chrome on it that I like. Always looks out of place to me.

"To each his own" my friend.
And the great variety of options available to us in the pinball world make that statement a reality.

#4447 1 year ago

I jinxed myself. Everything was working perfectly day before yesterday when I played it, and yesterday morning. Last night when I tried to play it was acting weird. I could start a game, but it was like everything was under powered. I'd hit the flipper buttons and they would continuously fire weakly. The goalie would move (slowly), but the soccer ball would not spin. This morning when I came in it was the same thing for the first game. After turning it off and back on again I got this nonsense with the DMD. If I press the start button nothing happens now. I have checked all the fuses and they look good. I have tried the machine without the J120 and J121 connectors (the last thing I was messing with a few days ago) but it makes no change on the DMD. If I had to guess the amount of power going to the machine is slowly going down. I have done limited troubleshooting (unplugging things one at a time and power-cycling) but have had no luck so far. Any thought/ideas/questions/suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

20180912_061532 (resized).jpg20180912_063243 (resized).jpg
#4448 1 year ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

I jinxed myself. Everything was working perfectly day before yesterday when I played it, and yesterday morning. Last night when I tried to play it was acting weird. I could start a game, but it was like everything was under powered. I'd hit the flipper buttons and they would continuously fire weakly. The goalie would move (slowly), but the soccer ball would not spin. This morning when I came in it was the same thing for the first game. After turning it off and back on again I got this nonsense with the DMD. If I press the start button nothing happens now. I have checked all the fuses and they look good. I have tried the machine without the J120 and J121 connectors (the last thing I was messing with a few days ago) but it makes no change on the DMD. If I had to guess the amount of power going to the machine is slowly going down. I have done limited troubleshooting (unplugging things one at a time and power-cycling) but have had no luck so far. Any thought/ideas/questions/suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
[quoted image][quoted image]

If this was my game, I would first re-seat the ribbon cables and then use the various voltage test points on the power driver board to ensure my voltages were good. If they are not, then this gives you a starting point. Let us know how it goes

#4449 1 year ago

Is it in test mode in the picture? Every light is on...

#4450 1 year ago
Quoted from maffewl:

Is it in test mode in the picture? Every light is on...

It is not. This is what it looks like after initial boot up after the "boing" sound. The lights on the playfield do what they are supposed to do and cycle back and forth as they would in attract mode. I cannot access the test mode (or do anything anymore). I'll double check tonight but I get less features every time I turn it on.

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