(Topic ID: 50131)

World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.


By DEWSHO

6 years ago



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  • Latest reply 11 minutes ago by chuckwurt
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There are 5701 posts in this topic. You are on page 88 of 115.
#4351 1 year ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Looking at the ball motor connectors it looks like I'm going to have to learn some basic soldering, but it's only 2 wires and youtube knows all

If you bought one of the Marco replacement motors, be aware the labeled terminal is backwards vs an original motor. If it spins backwards just swap the two wires.

#4352 1 year ago
Quoted from Wiggy:

Where can one buy a replacement? Been trying to adjust my right flipper a million times but I just cant get that bump to stop.

i am not sure about being "worn" as much as being "loose". THey usually sag down making the rolling path of the ball hitting the flipper instead of rolling over it. Most often you can unscrew, adjust, screw it back down tight. Happens once in a while on my WCS.

#4353 1 year ago

1. After playing around with the machine in an attempt to fix the 3 lights on the upper back of the playfield, I have discovered that none of the lights at the back of the machine work. Anything that is fed by the purple and white wire does not seem to come on at all. This seems to be the rear machine general illumination. Items circled on blue on the bottom of the machine are included in this... I have unplugged and plugged these back in one at a time with no luck. Opening up the back glass and turning the machine on, there are LEDs that come on, but one of them is blinking, the one in the upper left corner. I'm guessing this is bad. What are my next troubleshooting steps for correcting this issue?

2. I am still having issues with the playfield diverter. It causes a "Test Report" error "Check Diverter" error message around half the time at startup. The diverter motor is definitely working, but it seems to not always open the diverter up all the way around 1/2 the time. I secured the motor so it doesn't wiggle around anymore. The only other thing I can think of is to tighten or loosen the spring in the diverter. Does anyone have any experience with this and/or recommendations?

3. LEDs/new soccer ball and motor coming tonight. That looks simple enough. I'm hoping the new motor and ball will cut down on the noise and will let you guys know how it goes.

4. Found a pinball leveling app thanks to everyone's advice. It works like a charm and the fancy level I bought from Home Depot is going back.

Thanks for all the help!

qwweeeee (resized).jpgzxxx (resized).jpg
#4354 1 year ago

The diverted can be tricky to get going perfectly. But mechanically you should be able to push he plunger in, then have it return to rest with no binding. Double check it’s moving freely in and out. Do this with the playfield down at first. Move the diverted to the side with your hand. It should fall back when you let go.

Check you fuses for what relates to that particular line of lights. I bet it’s blown. You may have a short in that line of lights if the fuse blows again. Have fun finding it. Haha

#4355 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Check you fuses for what relates to that particular line of lights. I bet it’s blown. You may have a short in that line of lights if the fuse blows again. Have fun finding it. Haha

So, looking through the manual, J121 seems to do "General Illumination". I'm guessing none of my GI inserts are working... I just never noticed because they were not working from the start. In any case, doing some research with the manual and the pictures I have... it looks like the fuse is good but I will verify by hand tonight. The connector from the power board to the GI lights looks like it has some corrosion damage on it. I have verified with the manual that all the wires are in the right order, but am going to try the "unplugging it and plugging it back in" method tonight. Failing success with that I'll take a closer look and see if there is anything obviously wrong back there. If anyone has any other troubleshooting steps I'm all ears.

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#4356 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Check you fuses for what relates to that particular line of lights. I bet it’s blown. You may have a short in that line of lights if the fuse blows again. Have fun finding it. Haha

Oh come on chuckwurt, let's not scare him yet, haha.

First things first, download the manual from ipdb; literally google wcs owners manual and it will find it for you.

According to the manual I have saved on my phone, the back lighting should be hooked at J120-3 and J120-9 and should be a white-yellow wire. Trace it back until you find the break. It may be pulled out of the board, the connection in the back box may be loose, the actual wire may be broken; look for it. If the fuse is in fact blown, you have a short somewhere as chuckwurt suggested, so you need to find where contact was made and fix the problem before you replace the fuse and re-power.

#4357 1 year ago

Looking at your original pics, it's hard to tell if the gi is lit up or not...aside from the obvious that the machine should have light emitting from the bulbs in the slingshots, next to the free-kick saucers, and generally anywhere a rubber is...the various little green boards strewn around the outer perimeter of the underside of the playfield are your gi lighting. Its should take 2 seconds to determine if they are lit up or not, and if some are out.

It shouldn't be too hard to trouble shoot if they are all out, or just a couple.

#4358 1 year ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

So, looking through the manual, J121 seems to do "General Illumination". I'm guessing none of my GI inserts are working... I just never noticed because they were not working from the start. In any case, doing some research with the manual and the pictures I have... it looks like the fuse is good but I will verify by hand tonight. The connector from the power board to the GI lights looks like it has some corrosion damage on it. I have verified with the manual that all the wires are in the right order, but am going to try the "unplugging it and plugging it back in" method tonight. Failing success with that I'll take a closer look and see if there is anything obviously wrong back there. If anyone has any other troubleshooting steps I'm all ears. [quoted image]

I’ve never dealt with burnt GI connectors before, but if that burnt connector in the picture is for GI, you may need to replace that connector and maybe the pins it connects to, to fix your issue. This all assumes the fuse tests good that is.

#4359 1 year ago

Ironic. I just got a WCS and found that J121 connector was burnt badly also. I re-pinned a new connector with a IDC one and got it working correctly.
Most of my GI bulbs were out in the backbox and on the playfield.

Ensure that the wires are correctly hooked up to J121 and not hanging loose. On my J121, I used a small flat blade screwdriver and seated the wires firmly in the top of the connector.

General question: Since this game has so many bulbs in it, is this a strain on all WCS J121's? Just curious if others have had this issue.

#4360 1 year ago

Seeing J121 burnt like that is no surprise - WCS was a very popular game back when it came out, so it got a lot of use in arcades.

That connector needs to be replaced. Hopefully the pins on the board are OK. New owner, are you good with soldering? If so that is not too bad of a project.

#4361 1 year ago

I MIGHT have mentioned this yesterday...

Also, if you replace the connector, replace the pins too. They're already burned and causing resistance, and there might be board damage or cold/cracked solders so...

#4362 1 year ago
Quoted from jbovenzi:

Ironic. I just got a WCS and found that J121 connector was burnt badly also. I re-pinned a new connector with a IDC one and got it working correctly.
Most of my GI bulbs were out in the backbox and on the playfield.
Ensure that the wires are correctly hooked up to J121 and not hanging loose. On my J121, I used a small flat blade screwdriver and seated the wires firmly in the top of the connector.
General question: Since this game has so many bulbs in it, is this a strain on all WCS J121's? Just curious if others have had this issue.

Yep, basically every game of this generation has this issue if it's spent any significant time on.

#4363 1 year ago
Quoted from Grandnational007:

According to the manual I have saved on my phone, the back lighting should be hooked at J120-3 and J120-9 and should be a white-yellow wire.

So both J 120 and J 121 appear to have some damage on them in my machine. Looking at a digital copy of the manual, I see J120-3 and J120-9 as being associated with "insert background"... Does this refer to something on the playfield or is this referring to the backbox of the machine with the big goofy picture of the dog... that definitely lights up.

I still have no idea what the flashing red light is in the upper left of the backbox or what it means.

#4364 1 year ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Also, if you replace the connector, replace the pins too. They're already burned and causing resistance, and there might be board damage or cold/cracked solders so...

If I do end up having to re-pin these connectors and the pins... how/where would I go about getting these... I don't even know what to call them too google it.

#4365 1 year ago

Are they in a bank of 3? Those are CPU status lights.

#4366 1 year ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

If I do end up having to re-pin these connectors and the pins... how/where would I go about getting these... I don't even know what to call them too google it.

https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=235&pg=1

I have a kit someone used to sell, very handy. But I can't recall where I got it.

#4367 1 year ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

If I do end up having to re-pin these connectors and the pins... how/where would I go about getting these... I don't even know what to call them too google it.

http://www.thepinballwizard.net/index.php?p=product&id=2625
http://www.thepinballwizard.net/index.php?p=product&id=2433
http://www.thepinballwizard.net/index.php?p=product&id=2637
http://www.thepinballwizard.net/index.php?p=product&id=2636

As mentioned before, you will want to replace the male pins on the driver board. That's the biggest PITA. I've only had to do it once and it was obviously also my first time. I got through it with out any experience soldering previously. Just take your time, read up a bit, and you should be OK. Make sure you label all connectors when taking the board out as well. That will save you time in the long run when reconnecting and making sure you don't royally fuck something up. Good luck!

#4368 1 year ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

I still have no idea what the flashing red light is in the upper left of the backbox or what it means.

The blinking light means your cpu is running. So that's good.

#4369 1 year ago

Need some help from the group please. I’m doing a shop on WCS and cannot find where two clear pieces go.
I have everything else identified except the two plastics on the upper right. (Not the round ones)

Longer concave one and the trapezoid with the two holes.

I appreciate the help.

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#4370 1 year ago

Not sure on the long crescent shaped one... I don’t think I have it on my game, and I don’t see it on this plastics set:

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The trapezoid with holes goes on top of the wire form coming off the ramp:
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#4371 1 year ago

After further investigation into by upper playfield GI issues, I have determined the connectors to the back box are 90% likely to be the culprit. I'm going to buy some new connectors and fix it over the next few weeks.

On another note, my goodies from Marco's came in. I have not gotten to install the new ball/motor yet, but I got the first 10 or so LEDs in and they make a huge difference. They are so bright! There have been many questions on this forum in earlier pages about LEDs, color selection, and how many/where they should be put, so I have attached the instructions for the set MARCO sells. So far they look really nice. I really like being able to actually tell when the "travel" light is lit.

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#4372 1 year ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

After further investigation into by upper playfield GI issues, I have determined the connectors to the back box are 90% likely to be the culprit. I'm going to buy some new connectors and fix it over the next few weeks.

Wow, yeah you have 100% found the issue. Those poor things are TOAST!

#4373 1 year ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Wow, yeah you have 100% found the issue. Those poor things are TOAST!

Yeah... the only thing I'm not sure on is whether fixing the top or the bottom one will fix the stadium lights. I just ordered new connectors and will give it a shot when the goodies come in.

#4374 1 year ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Yeah... the only thing I'm not sure on is whether fixing the top or the bottom one will fix the stadium lights. I just ordered new connectors and will give it a shot when the goodies come in.

The top one, J120. J121 is your backbox insert, the one that swings open so you can see the boards.

Do you have a manual? If not pull it off of IPDB.

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#4375 1 year ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Not sure on the long crescent shaped one... I don’t think I have it on my game, and I don’t see it on this plastics set:
[quoted image]
The trapezoid with holes goes on top of the wire form coming off the ramp:
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Thank you very much! I did not have the trapezoid one on my game, so couldn't find where to replace it. Above the long wire form makes sense. Still can't find it in the manual, but will mark that up to your experience.

The picture came from PinBits: https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_76&products_id=576&zenid=038916befcc3dcf0527fa8cb2cb4d560

I did get a WCS repro plastic set that was sealed and the crescent one was NOT included with my set. I was just trying to make sure I wasn't missing anything. Perhaps I need to contact PinBits to see what they were thinking.

Very helpful!

#4376 1 year ago
Quoted from jbovenzi:

Thank you very much! I did not have the trapezoid one on my game, so couldn't find where to replace it. Above the long wire form makes sense. Still can't find it in the manual, but will mark that up to your experience.
The picture came from PinBits: https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_76&products_id=576&zenid=038916befcc3dcf0527fa8cb2cb4d560
I did get a WCS repro plastic set that was sealed and the crescent one was NOT included with my set. I was just trying to make sure I wasn't missing anything. Perhaps I need to contact PinBits to see what they were thinking.
Very helpful!

Knowing pinbits it is some genius thing that Martin invented and I’m not even close to smart enough to figure it out without him saying “It goes here dummy!”

Where did you get the plastics set? I need one too.

#4377 1 year ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Knowing pinbits it is some genius thing that Martin invented and I’m not even close to smart enough to figure it out without him saying “It goes here dummy!”
Where did you get the plastics set? I need one too.

I got my set from a fellow Pinside through direct contact. But Bryan is selling one:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/67099

#4378 1 year ago

Also, I did not get the PinBits set yet. I have not heard back from them on trying to order it plus the plastics protectors.

#4379 1 year ago
Quoted from jbovenzi:

I got my set from a fellow Pinside through direct contact. But Bryan is selling one:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/67099

Nice, I shot him a PM.

I put an "unofficial" set on my game when I got it and they turned out to be really scratchy and brittle. I'd imagine these are better.

#4380 1 year ago
Quoted from jbovenzi:

Need some help from the group please. I’m doing a shop on WCS and cannot find where two clear pieces go.
I have everything else identified except the two plastics on the upper right. (Not the round ones)
Longer concave one and the trapezoid with the two holes.
I appreciate the help.
[quoted image]

I was not able to find the longer concave piece on mine either. The trapezoid from the upper right portion of you photo is as seen in the photo.

3CCD6C41-79F3-4FE0-A74D-27125B6916D4 (resized).jpeg
#4381 1 year ago
Quoted from Giebzilla:

I was not able to find the longer concave piece on mine either. The trapezoid from the upper right portion of you photo is as seen in the photo.
[quoted image]

I never quite understood what the purpose of the trapezoid one is. I think it usually goes over the wire-form (i.e. the other way around compared to your photo).

#4383 1 year ago

The trapezoid piece is interesting. My machine doesn't have it, and I see no reason for it.

#4384 1 year ago
Quoted from maffewl:

I see no reason for it.

I believe the purpose is to prevent an air-ball from getting stuck on top of the wire form.

#4385 1 year ago

I fixed my noisy soccer ball motor for 5$ and it is a job you can do in 5 minutes.

I had purchased a replacement motor from Marco supplies, and to be honest it was even louder than the old one... MUCH louder. It sounded like a remote control electric car was 5 inches from my ear every time it turned on... I wonder what their return policy is... If I can't send it back it's going to go up on the classified section with an honest description.

In any case, before I reinstalled the old one, I took it apart and saw that there was 25 years of gunk in there. After some research, I cleaned the motor with a paper towel and squirted in some Lithium Grease (5$ at Home Depot in the Automotive Section) and hooked it back up. It is MUCH quieter. You can still hear it, but it is not nearly as loud, spins up faster, and continues to spin a little even after the motor stops sometimes.

If you wanted to do this yourself, you can do it without having to solder anything and by only removing 2 screws. If you look at the motor, it separates from the gearbox with 2 flathead screws. If you remove those, the motor will pop out leaving the gearbox. As you can see from my photo it was filthy. I gently wiped it with a paper towel and squirted in the lithium grease. Make sure you do not lose the little black O ring. The whole process should take maybe 5 minutes.

I also installed a new soccer ball from Marco. It is fantastic and very grippy. It grabs and throws the ball much better than the old one, and these can be installed simply with just a phillips head screw driver.

After the success I had here I went ahead and squirted some lithium grease in the goalie motor using the same process, but it didn't seem to make a difference.

I am slowly switching out the bulbs in the machine with LEDs and it makes a huge difference. I'll post pics when it's done. I have some new connectors coming in that I will be using to fix some electrical connectors that should bring up my back box light and stadium light in the next week. This should bring my machine up to about 98%. Having a blast fixing old stuff. Great game. "They can't seem to get control of the ball"!

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#4386 1 year ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

You can still hear it, but it is not nearly as loud, spins up faster, and continues to spin a little even after the motor stops sometimes.

Yep. This is proper operation of the motor. Glad you got it back to normal.

#4387 1 year ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

I also installed a new soccer ball from Marco. It is fantastic and very grippy. It grabs and throws the ball much better than the old one, and these can be installed simply with just a phillips head screw driver.

Yep. Also, keep and eye on the ball. Once it starts to get the ring of dirt around the bottom, clean it off with novus 2 and it will get back it’s full grippiness.

#4388 1 year ago

Original incadescent lighting questions..

I’m in the process of de-rainbowing a creative LED job and have a few sticking points. Does anyone know if the the three GI lights on the back wall had colored light condoms on or were just straight clear incandescents and same with the three coin toss lights. Also I remember the boards above the ramps had red, white and yellow light condoms on them but I can’t remember the order top top to bottom.. if anyine can remember the answers to these questions and help me get this game back to a more authentic state I’d appreciate it.

#4389 1 year ago
Quoted from deeplennon1:

Original incadescent lighting questions..
I’m in the process of de-rainbowing a creative LED job and have a few sticking points. Does anyone know if the the three GI lights on the back wall had colored light condoms on or were just straight clear incandescents and same with the three coin toss lights. Also I remember the boards above the ramps had red, white and yellow light condoms on them but I can’t remember the order top top to bottom.. if anyine can remember the answers to these questions and help me get this game back to a more authentic state I’d appreciate it.

I think the stadium lights were all yellow condoms.

#4390 1 year ago

Yes. Stadium yellow and boards are red on top for jackpot and yellow in the other two. At least that’s how it is on mine. Those are the only lights I haven’t changed to LEDs yet.

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#4391 1 year ago
Quoted from deeplennon1:

Original incadescent lighting questions..
I’m in the process of de-rainbowing a creative LED job and have a few sticking points. Does anyone know if the the three GI lights on the back wall had colored light condoms on or were just straight clear incandescents and same with the three coin toss lights. Also I remember the boards above the ramps had red, white and yellow light condoms on them but I can’t remember the order top top to bottom.. if anyine can remember the answers to these questions and help me get this game back to a more authentic state I’d appreciate it.

It looks like the coin toss also had yellow condoms, from the parts list: https://www.ipdb.org/files/2811/Bally_1994_World_Cup_Soccer_Parts_List.txt

Search for 03-8063 to find the condoms.

#4392 1 year ago

Thanks guys that covers it. Much appreciated.

#4393 1 year ago

On a tutorial video Bowen talks that in BIG goal round.. if you can complete 'BIG' it within a few seconds, you get an extra fourth shot with an exclamation mark worth 60M...
I don't know of anything like this even if I succeed in it I do not get this award... anyone does?

(at the 2:00 mark)

#4394 1 year ago
Quoted from DavidPinballWizz:

On a tutorial video Bowen talks that in BIG goal round.. if you can complete 'BIG' it within a few seconds, you get an extra fourth shot with an exclamation mark worth 60M...
I don't know of anything like this even if I succeed in it I do not get this award... anyone does?

(at the 2:00 mark)

He is either mistaken or joking. He also talks about a video mode in the tron tutorial that doesn’t exist.

#4395 1 year ago

Alright I just got done shopping out my wcs and when I plugged all the ramps back in on start up I am getting a SLAM TILT is closed.. The slam tilt isn't closed because I've checked it.. Any ideas? Thanks!

#4396 1 year ago
Quoted from DavidPinballWizz:

On a tutorial video Bowen talks that in BIG goal round.. if you can complete 'BIG' it within a few seconds, you get an extra fourth shot with an exclamation mark worth 60M...
I don't know of anything like this even if I succeed in it I do not get this award... anyone does?

(at the 2:00 mark)

I've tried for that several times since I watched this, nailed it at least a couple, and never got an exclamation mark. I call shenanigans.

#4397 1 year ago

I took the glass off and tried it and no way this is in the software...

#4398 1 year ago

Please, could someone that has an original topper please take some pictures of the hardware used to mount it. I'd like to keep things original if possible. Thank you in advance.

#4399 1 year ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Alright I just got done shopping out my wcs and when I plugged all the ramps back in on start up I am getting a SLAM TILT is closed.. The slam tilt isn't closed because I've checked it.. Any ideas? Thanks!

Got pictures from before you took it apart? Make sure the connectors are back on right. Playfield slam tilt switches near by? Make sure they aren’t closed.

#4400 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Got pictures from before you took it apart? Make sure the connectors are back on right. Playfield slam tilt switches near by? Make sure they aren’t closed.

I only see three slam tilt switches, coin door, underside playfield, and plum bob. Three coorect?

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