Hey there, I know your post is from years ago, but did Larry at Starship ever get these rolling? I just sent him a email, but it sounds like he may have moved on to other things.

Chris

Nope!

This is the story he has been telling for years

Screenshot 2018-08-23 13.29.43 (resized).png

Yeah I know how it goes...I've been wanting these ramps for 20 years.

I've joined the WCS Club recently, one of my favorites and thrilled to have it in my home. It seems to be a real hit with the family.

Generally speaking the machine is in great condition, but one trouble area is the free kick saucer eject. The left side is somewhat weak and the right side is worse - sometimes it takes 3 or 4 times for the ejector to kick out the ball and even then it is just a dribble. I looked under the playfield and the ejector mechanism creaks when it moves - it will move but a bit of resistance. The manual suggests lubrication and I know Vid frequently suggests Zoom Spout as a lubricant, so the next step seems to be to lubricate the joints of the ejector.

I was hoping to check in with other WCS members to make sure I am on the right track before I introduced the oil to the machine. Thanks much.

Looking at buying my first pinball machine this weekend or the next and am looking very hard at 2 World Cup Soccers near me. One on Pinside and one 15 minutes away from the one on pinside... both 2 hours from my house and within 5% on price. Can you owners of World Cup Soccer please take a look at these 2 photos and tell me if there is anything obviously wrong and/or missing on this machine? I of course will want to give it a test play to verify, I mostly wanted to know if there was anything missing here.

Thanks!

Pin 2 a (resized).png

pin 2 b (resized).png

Looks to be in pretty damn good shape to me.

Yeah... this is the only detractor to the deal though... $2700... I offered $2400 and got shot down. Being told on another tread that was more than a fair offer...

pin 2 (resized).png

I think that’s a fair price to offer. But I also bet they get the full 2700

Agreed, anything B/W is with a DMD is going up. 2700 it isn't a bad price at all.

I would have to agree. I don't feel that $2,700 is out of the question, and (depending on actual condition) they will likely not have much trouble selling it at that price.

What about WD40 dry lube?

Not surprising. WCS has definitely been on an upward trend. When I bought mine they were everywhere AND cheap!
Back then, say 5yrs ago, not uncommon to find one in excellent to mint condition for 2.5k. Actually got mine for for less and the seller dropped the price by 200 in order to make the sale!
Those days, it would seem, are L-O-N-G gone.

I own two of these, great machine. The price is fair if everything works.

The Kick plastic and the purple plastic on the right side of the left ramp are both broken. They’re both the most common plastics to break. Other than that it looks fine. It hasn’t been routed into the ground, but it isn’t the cleanest I’ve ever seen either.

When you play it, the ball should spin in both directions without making outrageous amounts of noise.

The real question is the quality of the boards. Hopefully the batteries are off the board, or the board has been upgraded to NVRAM so batteries aren’t necessary. Check to see if the board has signs of work done to it, connectors that are blackened or burnt looking.

When the power is on, open the coin door and press the “begin test” button ONCE and wait to see if any errors show up.

Consider having someone who knows how to fix pins come along with you.

I did it, I pulled the trigger and have my very own pinball machine at home and World Cup Soccer 94 is the winner! Ended up paying $2700. I have a few questions for the WCS/Pinball veterans out there about some things I would like to do to my machine, and some questions about the machine itself.
1. When I purchased the machine everything worked except for the 3 “stadium lights” at the very back and top of the machine. I have tried switching out the bulbs… no luck. I followed the wiring up into the backbox and unplugged/plugged it back in with no luck. What is the next troubleshooting step?
2. It worked just fine when I got it home, and my family has already put around 50 plays on it. However, as of this morning when I turned it on, I got the test report and it said the ramp diverter wasn’t working. During the game it partially opens, but not enough to divert a ball for multiball. Is there an easy fix for this? Should I be opening up the top and messing with it? What would be the next troubleshooting step, or should I just replace it? I had opened up the playfield and been messing with the stadium lights before hand… could this have broken it? Do I need to keep my hands out of the machine as much as possible?
3. The only other thing that is bugging me bigtime on the machine is the placement of the right flipper. As the ball rolls down from the right and hits the flipper, it bounces a little, as if the flipper is a 1/16th of an inch or so too high. How can this be adjusted? I am afraid to just try and push the flipper up and I don’t see how it can be adjusted underneath. Other that just bending the metal right next to the flipper, is there an easy solution to this?
4. The soccer ball is of course worn and old, but it looks okay. However, when the motor spins up it is pretty loud. How difficult is changing out the motor in these? I see the parts, but don’t know if this is an “expert only” repair job or if any sauder is required.
5. Can somebody tell me exactly what size screwdriver I need to fit the small hex screws that are throughout the machine?
6. I really like the machine, and after bringing the machine up to 100% with the “stadium lights”, fixing the diverter, and replacing the soccer ball, I’d like to put some LEDs with this machine. In particular, I would like the lights under the playfield switched out. I really want a brighter light under the “travel” notice beneath the left spinner. Has anybody done a “partial” LED job? I’m thinking about only doing the lights under the playfield. I am concerned that LEDs everywhere may make the machine blindingly bright. Does anyone have any experience on LEDing these?
7. Does anybody know the light size of the “extra ball” light and the “coin mech” lights on the front of the machine? I’d also like to know how to figure this out for myself in the future.
8. There was an extra bolt lock added to the front of the machine in the past. How would you repair the holes left by these?
All in all it is a fun machine. I’m hoping this machine will be easy to maintain. The other main contender was the STTNG machine, and from everything I’ve read this is easier. I’ll be talking to the wife about switching the machine out next summer or… cough cough… getting another pin… Baby steps.

20180825_143346 (resized).jpg

20180826_191525 (resized).jpg

boarkd (resized).png

qw (resized).png

qww (resized).png

(Note for many of these, you'll need to get comfortable lifting the playfield and working around electric voltage/current. If you feel that this is beyond your ability, you may want to reach out to someone more familiar with electronics. There is both high-voltage and the ability to cause major damage to the machine, and you. Take caution. Do NOT work on the machine while it is ON unless required - this includes simple things like changing lights/rubbers/etc. Also, make sure to remove the balls before lifting the playfield.)
1. Test for voltage at the socket, then at the header pins. Compare with the manual.
2. Take a look under the playfield and see if it is moving freely. Something such as a wire may have shifted and restricting its movement. If all is good at the mechanism, test for voltage here as well. Compare with the manual.
3. There is a hex-key (allen wrench) screw under the playfield that tightens like a clamp and holds the flipper in place. With the playfield up (and power off), move the flipper with your hand and you'll see it moving with the flipper. Loosen this screw and the flipper will rotate or slide out from the top. Rotate the flipper into position and tighten the screw.
4. Solder is likely required depending on the fix, but that is the case with most electronic pinball repairs. However, it isn't hard to change out any component on a pinball machine. It's more a matter of becoming familiar with the processes. The hardest part is usually just getting to the component and removing/replacing. Again, familiarity with electronics is required.
5. 1/4" is the most common size. If you plan on staying in the hobby, a ratcheting screwdriver with multiple size bits is essential.
6. All of my machines are completely LED. This is a matter of preference. You can put in zero, one, all, or any combination of LEDs to your liking. I use Twin SMD's with frosted bulbs from Comet. I usually use Sunlight White, but Warm White has a classic hue to it. Note, all of the LED companies have great options, so you may want to see what works best for you.
7. I haven't removed in a while, but my guess is that it's a standard #555 bulb. Again, you can use the bulbs from Item 6 above.
8. Most people just put a black bolt in it's place and leave it alone. If you want to restore, you can fill the hole with bondo/putty, sand, paint/decal, etc.

Welcome to the club!

Well, I learned something today.. I've been lifting the playfield with the balls in while trying to identify the stadium lighting issue.

I pulled the trigger on some LEDs, a new soccer ball, new soccer ball motor, some playfield cleaner, the screw-driver, and some balls. My $2700 purchase just became a $3100 purchase... Thank you so much for the advice and tips. I never would have thought about the voltage tester, but I'm guessing that's my next step in troubleshooting the stadium lights at the top. I will check wire lengths with the diverter at the top. I am absolutely going to fix the flipper with what you just described. Someone replace the flippers with a Williams assembly and I'm assuming they will work the same way. I am going to use some of the old bulbs I replace with LEDs to light up the coin doors and coin button if they are interchangeable. The big test is going to be the soccer motor and ball. I think I'll do that last. I will definitely get some black bolts for the front. That sounds sooo much easier than the wood filler I was thinking about using. Thanks! I'll put some playfield pics up once it's LED'd.

I also own a WCS, and I ordered a replacement ball and motor for mine shortly after I got the machine. The new motor seemed to be just as noisy as the one in the machine, so no real gain there. The new soccer ball was whiter and looked better, but it didn't seem to have any more "grab" than the old one, as far as kicking the ball around. It seems like the spinning soccer ball kicks a lot more on the backside near the pop bumpers, than it does on the playfield side near the goalie. I will be interested to hear your experience regarding the replacement motor and ball. Either way it's a great machine and a great score for your collection. GOALLLLL!

I’ve had to do this twice. More than likely you have to replace a specific part that likes to break on these.

It’s a bit of a pain in the ass because the part is NOT LISTED in the manual (!) and it sits under the playfield and at the bottom of the machine when the playfield is up.

Search the forum for WCS diverter and you’ll find the thread and part you need. Pinball life has them.

As someone said, you need to adjust the flipper. This is also a bit of a PITA the first time. Search the forum for “adjusting flipper”

The motor is loud with the glass off. With the glass on, you will still able to hear it - it isn’t whisper quiet. The motor is not very hard to change, but it may not be necessary.

Definitely personal preference, but LEDs do lessen the electrical load on your pin, and reduce heat. For those reasons alone it is worth doing. In my experience Comet has the best bulbs. Cheap LEDs do not last, been there done that. Use surface mount (SMD) LEDs only.

I’ve never seen a partial LED job that looked good but that’s my opinion. However, doing a full LED on WCS is a pain in the ass that will require you to strip the playfield nearly bare, and that is an adventure.

They are the same type as used everywhere else. I think they are #555. Just pull one out and take a look.

Also you’ll have more luck posting this in the WCS thread or in the forum one question at a time, but search the forum first, usually you’ll find the answer. The threads on tools will be very informative if you haven’t read them. Read the Vid’s guides. You’ll need more than a 1/4” hex head driver.

Do you mind circling the approximate spot in this picture where I would find the screw you loosen with an allen wrench?

qqw (resized).jpg

This caught me by surprise... I've only had mine for a few months now, but I'm fairly certain I've only ever seen it spin clockwise. Is there a way to test the motor to make it spin in the other direction manually? Or is possibly I have a switch/gear/etc or something that isn't working?

Some have a hex-key, some have a nut depending on manufacturer. See images attached. I've also attached an image from another thread that shows the shaft in place. See my edit comment below.
Flipper adjustment (resized).jpg

Flipper adjustment - other image (resized).jpg

Edit: Don't pay attention to any of the other text or arrows other than "Nut to loosen/tighten" and "Flipper shaft".

Nope, never heard from him after that email. My WCS is long gone...

I did my GI with Comet 1 SMD Frosted Sunlight White, it's not nearly as bright as a modern Stern - those use 2 SMD bulbs.

Sunlight white is perfect for the backbox, it illuminates the translight without shifting the colors like cool or warm white.

I would not put LEDs in the flashers though - especially not in a game like WCS that has a ton of flashers!

It only spins counter-clockwise during the finals against Germany.

The ball direction tests are in the solenoid test menu. The motor is controlled by a bi-directional driver board, so no gears/switches to worry about.

It will also stop and spin CCW during ball search.

IGNORE THAT SECOND IMAGE.
Holy carp.
WCS has a NORMALLY OPEN End-Of-Stroke switch.

I figured the difference in my text/arrows would make sense, but just to be clear... don't pay attention to anything in the second image other that the text that states "Nut to loosen/tighten" and "Flipper shaft". None of the other text/arrows are pertinent to this conversation.

This is my first pin and looking through the manual online I found this diagram. I know how to lift up the playfield and bring it up so it rests on the front of the machine, and I see how their is a little lever for it to rest on if I want to bring it up at a 45 degree angle or so. Has anyone brought their machine at a straight up 90 degree angle like this or am I missing something. Thanks! Manual Reference: https://www.ipdb.org/files/2811/Bally_1994_World_Cup_Soccer_Manual.pdf

asdf (resized).png

Follow the instructions above. They explain it nicely. Pull the playfield towards you until you hear the “click”. Then rotate to the full up position and rest it on the back box.

All the time!

23161621_172835319965719_1258987062011363328_n (resized).jpg

Whew, yes, okay.

Do yourself a favor and drape a towel over the backbox first.

Doh!! Play better Tony!!

Regarding the bump onto the right flipper, adjusting the flipper angle may not be the fix. It is pretty easy to try. It may be that the metal guide rail that the ball rolls on right before the flipper is worn and needs to be replaced.

That's the preferred way of putting the playfield up. Don't use the lever on the side, it will bend your playfield.

You most likely need to replace the pins (and connector) at J115, and your J121 connector also looks toasted, unless it’s just the light in your picture. I just had to go through and do this on my wife’s WCS, it was having the same issue with the GI lighting, specifically the “stadium” lights on the backboard.

Once you replace the plugs and switch to LEDs issues like this become a thing of the past luckily. Of course in home use, only on for short periods, and with better connectors it shouldn’t be an issue either.

Where can one buy a replacement? Been trying to adjust my right flipper a million times but I just cant get that bump to stop.

Right here:
http://passionforpinball.com/FlipFrames.htm

I just got several pairs myself. They're great.

Also consider the carbon fiber protectors from the same source.

Cool! I have the carbon fiber protectors, but I didnt know about the return frames.
Which ones did you buy for your WCS? So I dont end up ordering the wrong one.

The bump is probably due to worn metal ball guides. That is the piece the ball rides on before it gets to the flipper. You may be able to loosen the screw holding the ball guide nearest to the flipper (on the top of the playfield) and push that guide a bit in either direction and then retighten. If it is really bad, you can smooth the wear out with a file and then egg the hole out a tad with a Dremel to allow some more adjustment.

Gah! Brain fart, I forgot WCS doesn't have the typical ball guides on it.

I seem to have fixed the diverter problem. In my machine, once I lifted the playfield (thanks to the instructions from this site) I saw that there was only 1 screw holding the mechanism down (missing screws circled in red in the photo). I'm guessing they came loose during the move here. Fixing it seems to have been as easy as just replacing the screws so that the diverter motor was firmly in place and couldn't move.

I added 50 cents worth of bolts painted black to fill the holes in the front of the machine and it looks soooo much better. Thanks for the idea guys.

I still have to fix the stadium lights, but seem to have traced it back to next to where the diverter is under the playfield (circled in yellow in the photo). I have "unplugged and plugged them back in" with no luck. I bought a multimeter I will be playing around with soon to try to find the source of the problem. It has also occurred to me that I need to see if the bulbs the stadium lights are pulling power from are on or off as well (what's on the other side of the playfield from the yellow circle).

I should have my LEDs, soccer ball motor, and new soccer ball showing up tomorrow. Looking at the ball motor connectors it looks like I'm going to have to learn some basic soldering, but it's only 2 wires and youtube knows all. Once the LEDs are up and the stadium lights are fixed, it's going to be on to working the right side flipper bounce which I am receiving lots of conflicting advice on.

I may or may not be installing the soccer ball motor depending on whether or not the new soccer ball makes a difference in noise. I am also considering squirting some oil into the existing motor and seeing if that makes a difference on noise. Anyone have any experience with this.

I also found a tool at home depot that will allow me to measure a 6.5 degree pitch, so I'll be able to bring the table up to the proper angle.

All in all, I'm having fun getting my new toy up to 100% and enjoying the hobby.

20180827_193650 (resized).jpg

20180827_194307 (resized).jpg

That's where I found the screws to remount the diverter switch!

You just saved me 25 dollars. I still have the receipt... Thanks!