Anyone can tell me where this thing goes, please?IMG_20180425_180630305_LL (resized).jpg

It sits on the side of the coin toss mechanism

There are actually 2 of these pieces. One goes on each side of the coin toss. One to cover the emitter board, and the other to cover the receiver on the opposite side.

Thanks guys !
That makes sense.

I got that WC94 with all the parts, posts, screws, bulbs, ... in a plastic bag !
One heck of a puzzle that was !

I'm reaching the end of this, but I'm ending up with a few things left there...

Anyway, thanks a lot !

Feel free to post pictures of any other "extra parts", and we can likely tell you where they belong.

That's very nice of you !!

I'm basically resoldering everything to the ramps, today, as the previous owner just cut everything, instead of unplugging, to give a good cleaning to the playfield. Then he couldn't find out what went where...
Quite dumb, but that's why I got it for quite cheap, so i can't blame him

I got all the new plastics and the playfield protector waiting, but i'm assembling it with the old ones first to run the testing phase...

I'll post pictures indeed as a few wires remain on their own...

I know what you mean. A guy I once brought his son's guitar to me (a fender strat standard), after the kid had re-painted it. When taking it apart, he just cut all the pickup cables. When re-assembling it, he just taped the cables back together (each was a 3 conductor wire). Obviously, that did not work! He also cut the wires near the pickup end, so there was not much left to solder to. Some people should leave electronics work to the experts... Or, at least, people who know what they are doing!

I am sure you will get humpty dumbty back together again.

Boy oh boy !
How can one be so dumb ?!

I'm far from being an expert, though !
People with a bit of logic, at least !
But hey, if they want to try, fuck things up and then sell that to us for cheap, i'm fine with it !

While it's taken apart, it would be a good time to have it re-finished, or painted, if you have the desire to do that.

I recently dismantled my entire coin toss, and had all the pieces, plus the habitrail, powder coated in a deep yellow. (see pictures on page 79)
Another guy here had his re-plated in gold around the same time. (see pictures on page 80)
Both look excellent.

Well, i get your point, but I really like the effect of time and the magic it brings.
Even though it's not the very machine on which I spent all my money when i was in high school, it brings me back to that time, and I wouldn't like to interfere too much with this aging process.

The plastics are really used, so a set of new ones... well, ok. But i like its used aspect...

You should see the Type N Vespa I'm preparing for next year.
It's all rusty and worn, and I'll leave it exactly like that. But with a very neat engine !

Question for people - does your upper ramp have a curved metal protector at the U-turn at the top left? Mine does, but I'm seeing some pictures of machines without it. Seeing as my current ramp has a huge crack at that very location, I am thinking the metal protector is a requirement when transferring over to my new ramp.

Mine does not. I would have needed one though, since that seems to be a weak spot for this ramp. Most games, that I have seen irl, have some kind of damage in that area.
That protector must be some DIY project.

So, my WC94 is all assembled at last, and almost everything seems to be working...
It's in a test phase.

The only problem I have now is the goal opto that doesn't seem to be willing to work.
I'm trying to find the reason for it, but i can't find a lead.

I thought i'd look at the A18159 Switch Opto board, but then, not much more...

Are you aware of a component that's dedicated to this particular opto??

Thanks guys. Couple shots of the cleared apron and other side of cab.

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Okay.
My problem was actually not that complex...
IMG_20180429_185515671_LL (resized).jpg
Simple as that !
Found an old DVR remote, and that was it.

It's now a 100% working, and I'm excited as f€#k !

I should already be asleep but ...

Can you explain a bit more about what you did? I can't figure this out from your picture and text.
Are you saying that the emitter was missing and you took one from an old remote to fix?

This is exactly what i did.

On WCS there are a few different plastics that tend to break (like the one under left ramp and the one around the pop bumpers).
Has anyone ever made your own plastic protectors for these pieces? If so, got any templates to share?

I think there are kits. I use nylon washers to help protect at the holes (where the bolts go through, and where they always break). For the "header plastic" (right of the goalie, and around the left pop bumper), I made an additional plastic for reinforcement plastic that has worked well so far. You can see pictures of this back on my original post, a couple years back:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/world-cup-soccer-94-owners-everyone-welcome?tq=dana+header+plastic&tu

The extra plastic piece I cut was to protect the header plastic from being broken if a ball were to slam the billboard for striker's hideout, which is usually where the plastic breaks. This piece reinforces the whole area, and combined with nylon washers, has protected it ever since.

Here’s a picture of the ramp protector I mentioned. It does seem very DIY looking at the riveting; the ramp is cracked behind this protector so I’m definitely contemplating moving it over to my brand new ramp.

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Yeah looks DIY. Not on my ramp.

It's DIY, but a great idea.

Can someone tell me what goes in this hole right behind this pop bumper? I don’t seem to have any pictures that show it.

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Mine has a post there and a rubber ring around both that post and the one right next to it that is clear on yours. Mine doesn't have the clear plastic, it has another post.

Hope these help

jet-bumpers-11.JPG

kickout-05.JPG

Thanks for the photos!

Just a quick question. My WCS94! got Ball divider error while i enter to test, but in solenoid test it works fine. Is there any switch or opto to check the divider position? Or where the program "feels" its not working well.
So what i had to look for if it visually works.
Thanks for any tip or reply.

That is for a pin post. There are others on the machine identical to it. Loos at the top of your drain lanes on both sides. You will see a post with a round rubber ring at the top, on the leading edge of the drain lanes, dividing the flipper lane from the drain lane. Anyway... The hole you are asking about is for another one of these posts.

Edit: I just saw the other response, with the pictures of the dirty table, where it shows the post.

A few weeks ago I replaced the diverter spring that attached the diverter blade to the coil plunger under the playfield. It was loose and the diverter was sloppy, although generally work. I used a paperclip to secure the diverter to the coil plunger until the proper spring arrived in my parts order.

Check that all ramp switches work. The machine can't watch the physical operation of the diverter, so it watches the switches that should be activated depending on the location of the diverter.

I'm rebuilding a WCS Goalie assembly and have a few questions. First, is there supposed to be an e-clip holding the crank and drive assemblies together? Both of mine have a ton of wear and I can't even tell. The manual doesn't show an e-clip there but is seems like there should be one.

Second, there is a ton of extra space on my motor bracket assembly post. I could definitely possibly have lost a bushing or something when I was tearing the goalie down, but it seems super weird that the there is like 1/4" extra space on the post for the arms to wiggle about on. The spring keeps everything pretty tight, and the goalie moves a little erratically when I power him up. It's probably due to all the wear on the crank and drive, but it just . . . feels wrong. The manual looks like everything is mostly flush but I just don't know. Both of the flatwashers got back on the post but there's still too much damn room.

Hi,

I have a WCS94 that I got in pretty rough condition and was lucky enough to get a really nice playfield without wear to swap in.
The soccer ball gearbox was stripped, actually the motor pinion gear was stripped. Got a new pinion and pressed it onto the shaft, cleaned then re-greased the gearbox and it runs very nicely.
Tech info for those needing help.
My motor/gearbox assembly without the ball and ball carrier draws around 300mA at 12V.
the output shaft of the gearbox measures 540RPM, thats 9revs/second.... insane speed, I measured it 3 times to make sure.
If you cannot get a proper motor gearbox to replace your damaged one then this might help securing a 3rd party one.

cheers.

Hey guys. Wanted to see if anyone here has experienced an issue with the soccer ball motor screwing with the game's 12V supply. When my soccer ball is running I hardly have any power to the flippers. Any ideas what this could be? I have a thread going here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/flippers-function-in-test-but-not-in-game-play

EDIT: Found the issue. I hooked up a lighting mod to the test point 1 on the power driver board and this was causing the issue.

Here is a strange one. Just bought a WCS, and it is working perfectly apart from the trough 3 opto which is saying it is open even with no ball in the trough. What this means is the game kicks out two balls at the start of the final draw multiball. After checking the led transmitter for trough 3 under a camera, it looks like it isn’t emitting any color. I have ordered a replacement board, but my trough boards look strange and I don’t appear to have the 7 opto Board in the top left hand corner on the playfield. I will post some pictures - has my trough opto wiring been modified? How can it function without the original 7 opto Board? Don’t exactly know where the trough opto board wiring is going.

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you have the trough receiver board with the lm339's on board which is essentially a 7-opto board and trough receiver in one. Therefore the 7-opto board is not required.

Does anyone happen to know where these three pieces go? Reassembling the machine finally and these we didn’t mark. Maybe something to do with ramps? We took a bunch of things off the ramps because we bought new ones.

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The "s" shaped one goes behind the ball. Here is one of my tear down pics.

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And in case it's difficult to see in that pic, it's meant to hold up the wireform ramp from the Goal kickout.

Your picture was really helpful thanks! I actually identified three more pieces that weren’t on my machine just from that one picture. Luckily I have those parts!

Thank you

Thank you for clearing this up for me. I guess I will try to replace the transmitter led

The support attached to the chute post should be swung out to cradle the rail under it's large, center spine. The photo above shows it swung to the side, which is not the correct positioning, though I know it was just an old pre-tear-down photo.

I was looking back through posts to try to find a better picture of it in position, but surprisingly, many photos show that the part is missing.

Here is a photo from one of my previous posts, after my powder coating, that shows the piece in it's proper position:

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Hey y’all. I have a WCS94 and no experience repairing pins. It sometimes works perfectly and other times the left slingshot doesn’t work and the post that holds the lock ball doesn’t depress to release the ball when multiball begins or the ball incidentally makes its way over to that area. They seem to either both work or both not work and it changes at the drop of a hat. Any suggestions?

Could be a lot of things but they’re probably not related. Make sure the slingshot switches are clean and gapped, as in they close when the ball strikes the rubber. As for the post, make sure the mechanism moves freely, if it feels gummy it might need a cleaning.

When I have issues that are intermittent, I usually reseat the cables and connectors on the boards associated with those coils (with the machine off of course). Loose/corroded connectors and sometimes bad solder joints can cause issues like this.

First thing... Do you have the manuals? If not, then you absolutely need those. Then, there are the built in tests, which are accessed through the 4 buttons inside the door. In the manuals it will tell you how to get into the switch tests, but you may be able to figure it out without. Like the lights, all the switches are on an 8x8 matrix (columns and rows). The 8 x and 8 y wires chain from switch to switch. If there is a break anywhere in one of those wires (or solder points), it will take out the remainder of the switches in that column or row. So, a single wire break CAN cause many things to fail, that SEEM unrelated. For each thing that you have "not working", find the column and row that it's in, and look for common links. Then you can trace that wire and possibly find the problem. Use the switch tests first and try each switch to see which things are "not working". For your ball capture, it may just be the switches (there are 2 mounted horizontally). Test every rollover, bumper, rubber, and anything else with a switch, including the start, "buy in", and flipper buttons. On the display, it will show the column and row in the test screen.

Good luck.

Hey folks, just got a WCS and going through it to clean it and do some basic tune-ups. I have a question regarding the ramp plastics, specifically the areas where the twist-lock dome flasher domes twist in. The receiving plastic is broken on most of them, and it appears that the receiving piece was riveted into the ramp plastic.

Any ideas on how to repair this?

I see you have a Cliffy protector on your Goalie Assist hole... After you put everything back together did the ball still kick out of that hole the same way without the protector?

That hole never kicked out too well regardless of the protector which is why I installed a rubber band as pictured here

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/world-cup-soccer-94-owners-everyone-welcome/page/77#post-4200982