(Topic ID: 50131)

World Cup Soccer 94 owners. Everyone welcome.


By DEWSHO

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 5,056 posts
  • 477 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 hours ago by MotorCityMatt
  • Topic is favorited by 167 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 1,133 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

53870E85-77FE-4798-BD4A-3A38D8D828C2 (resized).jpeg
85637DAE-B20B-4C25-8F32-D58C9B05FEE1 (resized).jpeg
4A446EE1-BF5D-4913-B8B8-62C443D12F27.jpeg
5B5CFCAE-4A32-4853-B02E-9FD83E857EB5.jpeg
D4E87039-9DF1-4845-A90C-EAF2F15E9213 (resized).jpeg
F9D8C309-9EBF-4FE9-9C9F-F6E8AC845D40 (resized).jpeg
81804721-3874-4CD8-9E69-033071F768F3.jpeg
9EB53B95-6749-46E0-9D9B-467A7316DDE3.jpeg
IMG_6622 (resized).JPG
IMG_6621 (resized).JPG
20190308_175654 (resized).jpg
9609ED99-3FB3-46BE-A1BE-57BC3752F7B4.jpeg
F198CAE3-965F-4FCB-89B0-329B763B75B8 (resized).jpeg
2C2C4EE8-89B9-41D5-91F1-53ECB2769BCE (resized).jpeg
F47013F5-E7E1-4A07-B8F6-E6649743A306 (resized).jpeg
6660686B-D81F-4E2B-BE82-85DB8E527B8A (resized).jpeg

There are 5056 posts in this topic. You are on page 82 of 102.
#4051 1 year ago

Hello to all!

I was finally able to get my hands on my first WCS, everything is fine with the exception of a series of loud pops throughout the speakers when powering on the machine. I usually will hear (from other machines) only one pop when the switch is turned on, but this one will make the first pop by flipping the power switch and then 3 subsequent loud pops (throughout the speakers). Any idea of what causing this?

TIA!

~ja

#4052 1 year ago

that's a new one.

#4053 1 year ago
Quoted from uncle_jose:

Hello to all!
I was finally able to get my hands on my first WCS, everything is fine with the exception of a series of loud pops throughout the speakers when powering on the machine. I usually will hear (from other machines) only one pop when the switch is turned on, but this one will make the first pop by flipping the power switch and then 3 subsequent loud pops (throughout the speakers). Any idea of what causing this?
TIA!
~ja

Since it's an audible issue through the speakers, then it makes sense that it is either caused by the audio board, or the power to the audio board.
One thing you might try is to disconnect the audio board, and then monitor the voltage coming in through the harness when you turn it on. See if you see the voltage spike in pulses, like what you are hearing.
You might also try connecting the harness to the audio board while the machine is on. If you get the audible noises after connecting, but while the machine was already up and running, then it may indicate the audio board as the problem.
I am just guessing, and thinking of things that I would try, if it was happening to me.

#4054 1 year ago
Quoted from uncle_jose:

Hello to all!
I was finally able to get my hands on my first WCS, everything is fine with the exception of a series of loud pops throughout the speakers when powering on the machine.
~ja

This is because of the design of the WCS audio board.

There have at times been relay boards that you could install to fix the issue; it disconnects the speakers during turn on and quickly during turn-off. I don't know of a current supplier; I've been thinking of spinning some boards myself as my WCS does this badly.

#4055 1 year ago

Does anyone know how to fix th F6 error?

Which according to the layout isn’t used?

9EDFF0F6-6880-4ED0-8F3B-5DA3007BB073 (resized).jpeg

#4056 1 year ago

The switch still exists, it’s just not doing anything. Reseat your connectors on the flipper optos and the flipper board in the backbox, and make sure the flipper opto is clean and the interruptor is working correctly. If none of that helps swap the left and right flipper boards and see if the problem moves... if so, probably just need to replace the opto or maybe the whole opto board, which isn’t a big deal as it’s pretty cheap.

#4057 1 year ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

The switch still exists, it’s just not doing anything. Reseat your connectors on the flipper optos and the flipper board in the backbox, and make sure the flipper opto is clean and the interruptor is working correctly. If none of that helps swap the left and right flipper boards and see if the problem moves... if so, probably just need to replace the opto or maybe the whole opto board, which isn’t a big deal as it’s pretty cheap.

Thank you, I will try and tackle this weekend.

#4058 1 year ago

Got my cheap ass version of Pinstadium installed this evening. What an amazing difference. You can make 2 sets for about $24 plus whatever wire/connectors you use. I used 5v LED strips and tapped into connector 117, pins 3 and 4.

20180328_214328 (resized).jpg

#4059 1 year ago
Quoted from JodyG:

Got my cheap ass version of Pinstadium installed this evening. What an amazing difference. You can make 2 sets for about $24 plus whatever wire/connectors you use. I used 5v LED strips and tapped into connector 117, pins 3 and 4.

Nice work.
Could you show me link from this "light" version?

#4060 1 year ago
Quoted from onlydjz:

Nice work.
Could you show me link from this "light" version?

I will make up a DIY for the next one I do and post it here...it is pretty simple, although locating the same materials I used will be slightly trickier outside the USA.

#4061 1 year ago
Quoted from JodyG:

Got my cheap ass version of Pinstadium installed this evening. What an amazing difference. You can make 2 sets for about $24 plus whatever wire/connectors you use. I used 5v LED strips and tapped into connector 117, pins 3 and 4.

It look sweet! I'm having a hard time finding the right L-channel, which one are you using?

TIA!

~ja

#4062 1 year ago
Quoted from uncle_jose:

It look sweet! I'm having a hard time finding the right L-channel, which one are you using?
TIA!
~ja

I used two of these 3 footers this time, and painted them semi-gloss black. They also sell this in 8' at my local Lowes. You are looking for 1/2 x 1/2 aluminum. I also used 1/2" magnetic tape in 3 places on this set...it works nicely, and is black so it blends in.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-3-ft-x-1-2-in-Aluminum-Solid-Angle/3053617

And I used these 5v lights. If you get the 12v ones, you will need to find a 12v DC source to tap.

amazon.com link »

#4063 1 year ago
Quoted from JodyG:

I used two of these 3 footers this time, and painted them semi-gloss black. They also sell this in 8' at my local Lowes. You are looking for 1/2 x 1/2 aluminum. I also used 1/2" magnetic tape in 3 places on this set...it works nicely, and is black so it blends in.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-3-ft-x-1-2-in-Aluminum-Solid-Angle/3053617
And I used these 5v lights. If you get the 12v ones, you will need to find a 12v DC source to tap.
amazon.com link »

Ok. It is enough bright led strip?

#4064 1 year ago
Quoted from daveddd14:

Does anyone know how to fix th F6 error?
Which according to the layout isn’t used?

U.R.Flipper is upper right flipper, or in this case, the right side flipper.
This could be your flipper button controller, which is optical, and may need cleaning, or adjusting.

The Fliptronic II board controls 4 flippers. In the case of WCS, the upper flippers are the actual flippers, and the lowers are the 2 magnets (ball capture and magna save).

I would go into you switch tests and test the flipper buttons to see if they are reading properly.

Does the right flipper work?

It's also worth noting that the flipper buttons are on the matrix, so it's possible that there is a broken connection some under the playfield on either the x or y wire for the flippers. Case in point... I had an error on the trough, which is all optical, and actually controlled by a board under the playfield near the left flipper. However, the problem was not the optos, nor the board, but a broken wire on one of the striker targets by the left ramp. I learned a lot from that one, but mostly the fact that the cause may not be the error reported, especially when it's something on the matrix. I figured it out by doing the switch tests, testing every other switch in the same column in the matrix, then the same row. It immediately revealed the problem... A single broken wire, far from the ball trough.

For the flippers, everything is in the 9th column of the matrix in the tests. For the right flipper, it should light (from top to bottom) the U1, U2 and U6 (your offending switch), for the left, it should light U3, U4 and U8.

It looks to me as though your end of throw switch on the right flipper mech (U6) is your issue.

#4065 1 year ago
Quoted from dleasman:

U.R.Flipper is upper right flipper, or in this case, the right side flipper.
This could be your flipper button controller, which is optical, and may need cleaning, or adjusting.
The Fliptronic II board controls 4 flippers. In the case of WCS, the upper flippers are the actual flippers, and the lowers are the 2 magnets (ball capture and magna save).
I would go into you switch tests and test the flipper buttons to see if they are reading properly.
Does the right flipper work?
It's also worth noting that the flipper buttons are on the matrix, so it's possible that there is a broken connection some under the playfield on either the x or y wire for the flippers. Case in point... I had an error on the trough, which is all optical, and actually controlled by a board under the playfield near the left flipper. However, the problem was not the optos, nor the board, but a broken wire on one of the striker targets by the left ramp. I learned a lot from that one, but mostly the fact that the cause may not be the error reported, especially when it's something on the matrix. I figured it out by doing the switch tests, testing every other switch in the same column in the matrix, then the same row. It immediately revealed the problem... A single broken wire, far from the ball trough.

Thanks for the detailed response. The flipper works as it should (thank god) just trying to get it to 100%.

#4066 1 year ago
Quoted from dleasman:

U.R.Flipper is upper right flipper, or in this case, the right side flipper.
This could be your flipper button controller, which is optical, and may need cleaning, or adjusting.
The Fliptronic II board controls 4 flippers. In the case of WCS, the upper flippers are the actual flippers, and the lowers are the 2 magnets (ball capture and magna save).
I would go into you switch tests and test the flipper buttons to see if they are reading properly.
Does the right flipper work?

I think you have that backwards. Solenoid/Flasher table lists the flippers as lower, with Magnasave/Loop Gate being on the same transistors listed for the Upper Right flipper.

I agree on the flipper button PCB possibly needing attention. My machine originally was throwing upper left switch errors because someone hacked the wiring to use the other opto for the flipper.

#4067 1 year ago
Quoted from RatShack:

I think you have that backwards. Solenoid/Flasher table lists the flippers as lower, with Magnasave/Loop Gate being on the same transistors listed for the Upper Right flipper.
I agree on the flipper button PCB possibly needing attention. My machine originally was throwing upper left switch errors because someone hacked the wiring to use the other opto for the flipper.

Unless that differs from machine to machine, that is incorrect. On my WCS, the upper flippers are the actual flippers, and the lowers are the magnets.

#4068 1 year ago
Quoted from daveddd14:

Thanks for the detailed response. The flipper works as it should (thank god) just trying to get it to 100%.

I edited my post above with better info. It still looks to me like your end of throw switch on the right flipper... But I am just guessing. User the switch tests, and watch that right most column. You should get 3 indicators for each flipper, as detailed above.

#4069 1 year ago
Quoted from PoMC:

Today I adjusted the left flipper on my NBA Fastbreak. Even lined up with the hole like the right flipper, the left one doesn't quite go up as high as the right.

check your coil stops they might be longer.

#4070 1 year ago

A member messaged me recently about details on how I lit the drain hole (and a couple other areas, so I will do a post for each)

Removing the cover over the drain hole, I just used stick on led strips (9 elements in all, or 3 segments of 3). I rad the wire around to the back, where I just taped in in place with a piece of black duct tape, and then around to the underside of the playfield, under the left flipper mech, and then to the light board on the left slingshot, for GI power. I think I still just have the wires wrapped around the pins of the molex connector, and never got around to soldering to one of the lamp sockets, but it works, so I am leaving it be. Here are some pictures. Hope this is useful to someone.

LED strip in drain hole
To underside of playfield, and under left flipper
Attach to left slingshot lights

#4071 1 year ago

Related to the post above, and a member inquiry, here is some detail on how I lit the field light stickers at the top of the playfield.

First off, if you feel under the lip above where the stickers are located, while the playfield is in place, you will feel that there is kind of an overhang. I put LED strips under this ledge, so they are behind the lip, and facing straight down at the playfield. You might have to inspect your machine to understand what I am talking about. I used 6 elements (2 segments of 3) on each side. The right side connects over to the left side, and then goes back to the middle and through the the rectangular hole up into the back box. Be sure to leave enough slack so that the back box can fold down. I went to the backbox for power, because it was the most convenient, and I could zip tie to the existing wiring. Crazy enough, I run the wiring all the way up to the back glass lighting, for GI power, adding my pair to the bundle. Though I could have tapped into the wiring along the way, I don't like cutting existing wiring, in case a future owner chooses to remove the mod. In the final photo, near the hinges of the back box light panel, you can see the black wires come in and connect for power on 2 of the lamp sockets. Here are the pictures. In the first one, you can see the LED strip, with the wires coming from the stip on the opposite side, and then also going up into the back box. This photo is looking straight up, from where the field light stickers are located. The second picture is where I attached on the back box. In between, the wire pair just follows the existing harness, where I removed the old zip ties added my wire, and added new ties. I hope this is useful to someone.

Left LED strip facing stright down above field lights
Black wires connecting to back glass GI power

#4072 1 year ago

One more, related to the posts above, and a member inquiry, here is some detail on the spotlight I added behind the left ramp billboard.

One of 3 spotlights I added was to back side the left billboard, shining towards the area in front of the goalie. Mouting the light was easy, but I had to remove the board to do it. The wiring attaches, with a zip tie, to the existing wiring for the billboard lights, and follows that cable down to the underside of the playfield, through the same hole. From there, I went to the nearest GI light board for power, which was just a couple inches from the hole. Here are a couple pictures. The first picture was taken from the left side of the machine, to show how it was attached, and where the wires go. The spotlight mounts to the bolt that holds the existing light panel. In the second photo, you can see the pair of black wires going from the hole over to the small green GI board. Hope this is useful to someone.

Left billboard with spotlight attached
Spotlight connection to GI board under playfield

1 week later
#4074 1 year ago

Anyone need an original fully working DMD?
Upgraded to color and don't need the old one.

Added 12 months ago: EDIT: SOLD

#4075 1 year ago

Hi guys,
Anyone has a scan of the goal keeper, by any chance??

Mine is destroyed...

#4076 1 year ago
Quoted from wylcot:

Hi guys,
Anyone has a scan of the goal keeper, by any chance??
Mine is destroyed...

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1924-8

#4078 1 year ago

In search of the triangle/L shaped plastic that goes near the soccer ball/right ramp. Can't find it anywhere without a bunch of ones I don't need

#4079 1 year ago

During my spring cleaning, I noticed I still had a spare WCS trans. It's original, just slightly yellowed. I'd sell it for $100 shipped in the US if anyone is interested...

229015fc74980c6c97aa13c54a1827be6d17f2f1 (resized).jpg

#4080 1 year ago
Quoted from dleasman:

Since it's an audible issue through the speakers, then it makes sense that it is either caused by the audio board, or the power to the audio board.
One thing you might try is to disconnect the audio board, and then monitor the voltage coming in through the harness when you turn it on. See if you see the voltage spike in pulses, like what you are hearing.
You might also try connecting the harness to the audio board while the machine is on. If you get the audible noises after connecting, but while the machine was already up and running, then it may indicate the audio board as the problem.
I am just guessing, and thinking of things that I would try, if it was happening to me.

I still have to check what you are suggesting, but here's a video of the actual "pops" :/

#4081 1 year ago
Quoted from uncle_jose:

I still have to check what you are suggesting, but here's a video of the actual "pops" :/
» YouTube video

Yeah... That sounds like a power issue to me, maybe because of the voltage going to the audio board.
In the end, I think it's probably harmless. If it only does it on startup, and does not effect audio beyond the startup sequence, then I would not worry too much about it.
I am still curious of the cause.

#4082 1 year ago
Quoted from dleasman:

Yeah... That sounds like a power issue to me, maybe because of the voltage going to the audio board.
In the end, I think it's probably harmless. If it only does it on startup, and does not effect audio beyond the startup sequence, then I would not worry too much about it.
I am still curious of the cause.

Every now and then a crackle noise like that suggests a poorly connected or damaged
speaker.

#4083 1 year ago
Quoted from rollitover:

Every now and then a crackle noise like that suggests a poorly connected or damaged
speaker.

I disagree that this is the speaker. For one, it's pretty clear form the audio clip that the sound comes from both the bottom and front speakers.
The type of sound that you are talking about is called "excursion", but this is clearly not that sound.
Sorry to disagree, but I am certain the speakers themselves are not the issue here.
I still think it's power related, or something on the sound board not properly regulating the power.
Speakers do not make sound on their own... It takes voltage through the voice coil of the speaker's driver to make sound. Clearly, this is modulated power, causing a lower frequency burst, and it sounds like it's in the 60hz range. For this reason, I believe it is power leaking through.

#4084 1 year ago
Quoted from dleasman:

I disagree that this is the speaker. For one, it's pretty clear form the audio clip that the sound comes from both the bottom and front speakers.
The type of sound that you are talking about is called "excursion", but this is clearly not that sound.
Sorry to disagree, but I am certain the speakers themselves are not the issue here.
I still think it's power related, or something on the sound board not properly regulating the power.

No, no, disagree all day long.
I just made a suggestion that's all.
Something to be checked and ruled out.
Pretty obvious you have more experience anyway.
I hope he solves his problem

#4085 1 year ago

I need to order a left ramp guard for the right side of the left ramp entrance. But I'm having trouble figuring out which part # that is. The manual lists those parts, but doesn't show their location in the playfield diagram - see attached pic.

Marco has these two guards listed for the left ramp, but looks like the same pic is being used for both.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-12811
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-12811.1

Anyone know which guard would be for the right side of the left ramp?

20180420_075550 (resized).jpg

#4086 1 year ago

Have you reached out to Marco? They're pretty knowledgeable in my experience

Also, they're cheap enough that I'd probably just buy them both anyhow since they probably don't match the old one perfectly in color, take note of which one was which, and save the old working one in case of emergency. Shipping from Marco is kind of ridiculous so I try to buy as much as I could possibly use with each purchase.

#4087 1 year ago
Quoted from mixmastapj:

Have you reached out to Marco? They're pretty knowledgeable in my experience
Also, they're cheap enough that I'd probably just buy them both anyhow since they probably don't match the old one perfectly in color, take note of which one was which, and save the old working one in case of emergency. Shipping from Marco is kind of ridiculous so I try to buy as much as I could possibly use with each purchase.

Thanks, I got off the phone with Ashley from Marco who was super helpful. She went and grabbed both parts and we able to figure it out. Looks like the part # ending in .1 is the left entrance for the left ramp. I did end up ordering them both after going to my WCS to describe the left guard (my right guard is missing) and see it has enough wear to warrant a $9 replacement.

I'll confirm the part #s in the thread when I get them in case it helps anyone else out.

#4088 12 months ago
Quoted from wylcot:

Hi guys,
Anyone has a scan of the goal keeper, by any chance??
Mine is destroyed...

UP

#4089 12 months ago

What exactly do you need? Someone already posted the goalie for sale and you said you had it. I’m confused. If the one you have is destroyed, buy a new one. Haha

#4090 12 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

What exactly do you need? Someone already posted the goalie for sale and you said you had it. I’m confused. If the one you have is destroyed, buy a new one. Haha

In my experience, plastics, like the goalie, break at the point where the screws attach. My solution is to use thin, nylon washers. I sandwich the goalie plastic between a pair of washers, and put the bolt though the whole thing. This eliminates stress at the hole, and the plastics don't break. I have used dozens on this machine. Key plastics for washers are the goalie, header, slingshots. Eliminate metal on plastic with metal on nylon on plastic. Nylon washers are available in black or white, and they are super cheap.

IMG_20180422_085327 (resized).jpg

#4091 12 months ago
Quoted from dleasman:

In my experience, plastics, like the goalie, break at the point where the screws attach. My solution is to use thin, nylon washers. I sandwich the goalie plastic between a pair of washers, and put the bolt though the whole thing. This eliminates stress at the hole, and the plastics don't break. I have used dozens on this machine. Key plastics for washers are the goalie, header, slingshots. Eliminate metal on plastic with metal on nylon on plastic. Nylon washers are available in black or white, and they are super cheap.

Yep. Did the same for mine but metal washers. But he asked for scans like he’s making decals. If he has the one from Marco can’t scans be made from that?

#4092 12 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Yep. Did the same for mine but metal washers. But he asked for scans like he’s making decals. If he has the one from Marco can’t scans be made from that?

I meant I had the li,k. Sorry for the misunderstanding.
I'll try to scan my used one and work it on Photoshop...

#4093 12 months ago
Quoted from wylcot:

I meant I had the li,k. Sorry for the misunderstanding.
I'll try to scan my used one and work it on Photoshop...

Okay cool. Hopefully you have the goalie target. I’ve never seen these for sale.

#4094 12 months ago

Looking for bottom right ramp. Mine is broken all to hell.

#4095 12 months ago

Sale pin, anyone?

Hi.

I'm hoping to find a clean, working example of WCS94 here in Minnesota. If you have one you might part with or if you know of any collectors who might be thinking of selling, I would love to hear about any/all possibilities.

I'm in Minneapolis and would prefer to find one that I might drive to in, say, three hours or less. I would also consider buying from a distant seller and having it shipped, although that would be less ideal.

If you do reply, please PM me directly and tell me your asking price and location.

Thanks for reading my post.

#4096 12 months ago

Restoring a WCS and clearcoating the cab (my first time to clear a cab) Was so happy with the way it came out and wanted to share

49BA0088-94E1-4DF8-BC70-43B7CFDE77F7 (resized).jpeg

86BFD53A-314B-4987-9C4E-C931CB1D58D8 (resized).jpeg

#4097 12 months ago

Wow, that looks amazing!

#4098 12 months ago

drool.

#4099 12 months ago

wicked.

#4100 12 months ago

Very nice !!!

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 8.50
Lighting - Led
Bright Lights Pinball
$ 50.00
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
From: $ 5.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Fullerton, CA
$ 40.99
Lighting - Interactive
Lee's Parts
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
San Diego, CA
$ 11.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
$ 20.00
Playfield - Decals
Flashinstinct
From: $ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 229.99
Lighting - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
From: $ 9.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
$ 225.00
Lighting - Interactive
Professor Pinball
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Aliso Viejo, CA
From: $ 22.00
From: $ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
3,200 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Menomonee Falls, WI
From: $ 29.00
Boards
KAHR.US Circuits
$ 10.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Gweem's Mods
$ 17.50
Playfield - Plastics
Bright Lights Pinball
From: $ 369.95
Boards
PinSound
$ 69.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
$ 66.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
There are 5056 posts in this topic. You are on page 82 of 102.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside