I am certainly not the first to powdercoat these parts. I saw a post here, a couple years back, where teal was used, and I think another yellow. Another where the legs, bar, and side rails were purple.

I like the end result very much. My gold was all worn, and flaking off. It was time to do something. Cost $50 to have it done, but totally worth it!

I immediately thought of teal
but quicklyreconsidered.
Might be a bit too much because teal being such a prominent color on the game. The yellow really draws out the yellow on the playfield.
It is complimentary for sure whereas
the teal may be overkill?
That said it would be
cool to see what it would look like!

Do you remember how many G.I. bulbs there are on the playfield and what sockets they are? I counted 33 but I'm not sure if they're all 555.

All 555... I didn't count but I don't think there are more than 33. So easy to swap out thanks to the little boards they're all mounted on. Did them all from below without removing one plastic.

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That's wicked man! Can you give us some details, where it was made, cost etc.

http://www.pinballplating.com

I sent my wireform here and received a completed brass plated one in less than a week. Great service, great quality.
He also has skill shot assemblies and protectors ready.

33 seems about right, but don't forget the GI in the back box, plus the start button and coin slot lights.

And there's one GI lamp in the lock area

I didn't change the lock, the backboard lights, or the pops, but I did factor them into my "guesstimate"/confirmation.

I prefer the look of colored incandescents in those spots (and the ramp signs and the coin flip). I did get the little board lights for the pops but I'm not changing those out until it's shop time, it wouldn't be impossible, just a little annoying, lol. But to me, uncolored unlit leds are kinda ugly, and I don't really want to go back to the bulb condon days, so...

I might be inside WCS today, if I am I'll take a quick count.

don't worry about counting; just buy the 100 packs (discounted) from comet of the bulb you want. free shipping at $100, too. you'll need more down the road anyway for other games. trust me .

Thanks guys. Great info on the lights.

My tally:
G.I.: 73 555s.
Playfield: 49 555s, 21 44s.
Grand total: 122 555s, 21 44s.

This includes:
- All the G.I on the playfield, backbox, backpanel, coin slots, start button, and extra-ball button.
- All the inserts and lights on the playfield including pop-bumpers.

Flashers are excluded.

I agree. Get more that you need, in case you want to add more later.
I actually have green GI under my ramps and under the rails on both sides of the flippers. Nice accent, without being too much. I think I have 8 GI in green, total.
I also added a GI under the word "LOCK", because I always thought the light was burned out until I looked and there was not even a socket there. Now I have one.
Then I added 3 of those spotlight reflector sockets, with white lights. They are on the GI as well. One is on the upper ramp support of the right slingshot, and shines towards the center playfield (stamina, strength, etc). The second is on the upper edge of the "LOCK" plastic, shining towards the "free wheeling disc" with the soccer player on it (that upper left corner always seems dark), and the third is behind the left ramp billboard, shining on the area in front of the goalie.
Pop bumpers also have disc light boards in them (green shining up, white shining down).
And last was some LED strip lights. 2 sections of 3 lights above each of the 2 field light stickers at the very top, and 3 segments of 3 on the top edge of the stainless drain hole plate (not sure the actual part name), to light from behind the flippers.

Once you go full LED, there is hardly any draw on the circuit, so you can just go nuts. I did the LED soccer ball pin topper, with white GI, and red and green flashers (red on goal, green on ball lock). Many people go with a lot of color, but I stuck with white, except for green in a couple accent areas.

Whatever you do, I am sure it will look fantastic.

"There is no such thing as an un-modified pinball machine"
- a quote from my good friend, Devin Durham

I am helping another member with their pin topper project, and am unable to attach photos to a message. Just in case anyone else wants to know how I did this, I will just post these photos here.

One thing to note from my previous post is that I needed to switch to a 5 pin harness, because the GI (6.3V) cannot share a ground with the flashers (12V). Not sure why, but it appears as though the 6.3V is actually AC, where the 12V is DC as it should be. I found this strange, but just went with a 5 pin for the extra line (2 for the white 6.3V GI, 1 for the 12V red, another for green, and the 5th for 12V ground).

In the back box picture, red refers to the red led's in the topper, green for green, and GI for the white.
In the pencil wiring drawing, you can ignore the note in the upper left about the pre-wired segments.
And sorry my writing is not more clear.

As seen in my previous post, back on page 64, I put 2 strips of 6.3V white in the middle, 4 sections of red and 4 of green around the perimeter.

Anyway, here are the pics, in case anyone else wants this information.

Topper Wiring (resized).jpg

Topper (resized).jpg

Back Box (resized).jpg

Local shop. Wire ramps were fully cleaned manually myself (until naked steel). Then red copper apllied as first layer, followed by brass. Red copper base is required to reach shiny brass surface.
Price was about $60 for a set of IJ ramps.

Anyone have a picture of where to route the striker target/light cable by the VUK? I'm dumbfounded

Equally dumb with goal flasher dome. I have the wire marked up but I don't know how to route it best

Curious if any WCS owners might also own Demolition Man and could say if the diverter ball guide (#A-18233.1) used in WCS is at all similar to the one used in Demolition Man (A-18242).

Sorry to bog your thread with a question that's only tangentially related to WCS94 - a really awesome game, btw.

Thanks!

I was thinking about using spotlights aswell since I find this game looking best bright.
Im new to this, so I cant really figure out how to tap these spotlights into the GI. All GI lamps I find are on lamp boards.
What am I missing?

Got the wire routing figured out. Holes were hiding just out of sight

Here is one of mine, at the top of the right slingshot. There is a he post that sits on top of the rail mount, and holds up the chute. The light mounts in-between at the top. The wire is zip tied to the hex post. It then goes through the playfield by the upper slingshot contact switch. Underneath, I just solder to the nearest GI. In this case, it's the lamp socket for the coin toss light. Black wire clearly visible in photos below.

For others, where you need to attach to a 2 or 3 light board, the socket solder points are on the bottom, and you can just solder right on to those.

I have additional pictures if needed.

IMG_20180217_100532 (resized).jpg

IMG_20180217_100905 (resized).jpg

Where does this plastic go? Final piece to put back. The game is done!

image (resized).jpg

On top of one of the pop bumper caps. Bottom right. The long piece points to the backglass.

See this thread for good pics.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/world-cup-soccer-94-shop-out-thread#post-3474543

Oh damn I knew I recognized it. Well it's almost two years in the making and during that time I've become a father. It's done but there are some small issues left.

-Goal optos does not work.
-Goalie left/right opto does not work. I'm guessing because there is an arm of some sort missing.
-assist hole is weak and misses the goal sometimes even though it's cleaned and have a new sleeve. Better replace the coil.

Oh and finally, what is the default position of the diverter? Mine is always to the right basically. Spring is too weak to pull it back out. I think the sleeve is bad. Couldn't get it out.

05F8F9B5-09EE-4186-999C-FA0A8186D499 (resized).jpeg
44E177B9-4F13-46EB-BCD9-F3E3E0E79111 (resized).jpeg
A9049982-D82E-4B66-B9C4-94B7D6C737A7 (resized).jpeg

Refer to my old posts how it looked when I got it.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/world-cup-soccer-94-owners-everyone-welcome/page/43#post-3002510
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/world-cup-soccer-94-owners-everyone-welcome/page/43#post-3015115
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/world-cup-soccer-94-owners-everyone-welcome/page/47#post-3123236
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/world-cup-soccer-94-owners-everyone-welcome/page/49#post-3162066

Default diverter position is left. And switches each time you hit the left ramp.

Sounds like the coil may have overheated and melted the sleeve; might want to consider replacing the coil altogether?

Very informative, thanks for the answer.

I have a new coil ready but I think I assembled the diverter incorrect since mine is basically always to the right. I remember it was not this tight either when I removed it.

Good luck. You have to get that diverter just right so that it moves smoothly. Took me forever to get mine right after I put it back in.

Yeah tell me about it. Took out the sleeve, it was fine but dirty. Didn't have a spare so I cleaned it up with some fine sandpaper. Put it back together and the coil was running smoothly inside. Attached the diverter to the coil arm and it had smooth movement and enough play. Great! But during gameplay it wouldn't return back once it had engaged and there was too much resistance. Scratching my head with this one

I know I posted about this before, but the trick to a smooth moving diverter is to add nylon washers. See my pic below, where I use 2, thick, white, nylon washers to support the arm, and keep it free moving. It also prevents the arm from scuffing the ramp, as you see on mine, from before I rescued the machine.
You may notice thin nylon washers in many of my photos, as a soft buffer between bolts and plastics, to prevent cracking. I use these everywhere the ramps are attached, slingshots, goalie plastic, and of course, pivot points, like the plunger and the diverter. I get white ones from Ace Hardware.

IMG_20180218_094218 (resized).jpg

in my case it was not the top side part that was the issue (mine had a plastic washer up there already). Mine was getting the plunger and spring situated on the mech properly. Has to be just right.

Same as chuckwurt. I have all original bushings and parts back where they should. It's the weird mech fitting that's a pain in the a**.

In that case... Here is my underside. I have another nylon washers on the bottom, to keep the pivot from binging. On the solenoid, both springs are crutial. One is for recoil, and the one on the end of the arm is in case the diverter gets jammed with a ball, which happens often. For the bottom spring, orientation is the key. Mine works seamlessly, so hopefully, this photo will help.

IMG_20180218_104704 (resized).jpg

Excellent! thank you. It will help for sure next time I go at it.

Hey, I finally joined the club. I've been waiting for too long. Does anyone make a teal colored cabinet leg protector? if not, what color cabinet protector should I purchase? I was thinking just black may look nice.

Does anyone sell the bracket assembly?

Diverter back on. Easy peasy thanks to you dleasman

Just joined the club!! Needs a complete shop, but should turn out really nice!

IMG_6646 (resized).JPG

IMG_6656 (resized).JPG

one of the worst games to shop . it'll be worth it, however.

My machine is making ghost calls such as:
What a save!
The guy is a wall!
It is also registering hits when I have ultra goalie.
All of these when the ball has not contacted the goalie.
Reasons?
Thanks will check back later.

Check the adjustment + wiring on the goalie switch...

Hoping for quick and easy.
Confirmed what I thought.
Thanks bud, will check it
after work.

Agreed, but not as bad as Demo Man was!

It's not that bad actually. Just work systematically, number up the connectors underneath the pf. Unplug from below and once the two ramps are off you have easy access to almost everything. Lock playfield is really easy to get off too with only a few nuts. I think the skill shot assembly was the trickiest thing to put back together but it wasn't that bad either.

Try tightening the screw on the goalie. I get that every year or so and the screw just needs tightened.

Thanks, will check on that too.
Still have not had a chance to open it up.
Might have to wait for the weekend.

ha. had one of those, too. i remember there was a flasher underneath the playfield i never replaced, because of the disassembly difficulty.

I have a chipped goalie. What's the best way to replace this poor guy? I see decals places but no actual goalie to order.

You need the backing that the decal goes on:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-9134.1