Oh! Then yes, definitely. Sorry, misunderstood there..!

Thanks for the reply, I'm not sure if this is my problem though but I could be misunderstanding your post. I've attached a picture and it looks like my rubber sleeve isn't even touching the ball guide.

Is this what you meant?

IMG_0042 (resized).JPG

The 2 post sleeves you show on my machine were slightly wider than standard. I replaced them with Titan sleeves and either the ramp tip straightened a tiny bit or the ball was being slightly diverted by the sleeves. After replacement, I have had no problems. It looks to me like the lower of the 2 post sleeves on your machine shows wear from the ball exiting the loop. The ball should not touch the rubber post when exiting I think.

On an unrelated issue but in the same location, my kickout at this hole is very strong to the point that it hits the plastic over it and effectively "dribbles" out of the hole. I replaced all my coils when I did a playfield swap, so everything is good and strong. Does anyone else have this issue? Any solutions?

NVRAM is also a very viable solution. Never worry about batteries again and is very similar in cost to the remote battery holders.

Started my tear down and clean up on my WCS. Hmmm was this ever cleaned????

20180109_125704 (resized).jpg

So, I found myself a WCS94 a few months ago with the playfield stripped down.
I just started to clean it up and I'm about to purchase a Playfield Protector.
I was wondering if some of you have and could give me a little feedback about it...

Any kink with it?
I'm actually puzzled about the buttons in the middle. Isn't it problematic here with a protector?

Never seen someone use a protector on WCS

Probably not with the premade holes for the buttons.

https://www.playfield-protectors.com/Home/Details/-izHFS116U6nbR1n69bBww?categoryid=22&category=Playfield%20Protectors&name=World%20Cup%20Soccer%20%7C%201994

Oh no, sure there are premade holes, but I was wondering if once the button pushed, the edge of the protector wouldn't be too... prominent?

Same here mate - going through a clean up too!

IMG_20180112_143050 (resized).jpg

Wow! Yours may be a bit more cruddy than mine! Enjoy your restoration, that's my favorite part!

So I went with the idea to just remove the damaged sticker. Using a very sharp new razor blade, I carefully peeled that hidious thing off and scrubbed the sticky residue wirh GooGone and it looks great! I think I like it without the sticker. It's interesting the artwork has small tracers to identify placement of the decal.

20180103_213133 (resized).jpg

20180113_163402 (resized).jpg

Very nice. Looks great!
I think you're right, it does look better without.

Had a feeling it would look cool! Nice work.

Hey yo !
What's the best rubber color design, for your WCS, in your oppinion ?

I'm thinking white rings, green flipper rubbers and yellow and purple cliffy post rubbers when I shop mine next.

are the star posts cyan? if so, i'd say purple everywhere; superbands at cointaker.

Posts are teal.

i'd still go with purple everywhere.

Found myself a broken/loose wire, cant really figure out what to do with it.
Its connected to the marked flasher (down to the left with the playfield up) but where should it go? Should it connect somewhere or has it broken into two pieces?

Flasher still works without that wire though. Isnt that odd?

flash (resized).jpg

is that circuit supposed to have two flashers daisy chained together maybe? you have any that don't flash?

Just above the circle you drew (the one on the right), there's another flasher.
You're supposed to have a big and a thin red/white wire soldered together.
From what I see on your picture, the loose one is supposed to go there...?

All flashers work. But they feel really "weak", not as bright as a LED flasher should be. No clue if that has anything do to with this though.

From what I recall that flasher already have two red/white wires solder to it, they might just block each other in this picure.
Will double check that tomorrow.

Well, I was wrong.

There is only one red/white wire connect to the flasher. Should the loose wire be soldered to this flasher?

flasher (resized).jpg

if i still had my WCS, i'd check for you. sorry.

Great fun game Wcs is fun for everyone.

One of my buddies brings his to OC league a lot and we all love it. It ends up getting the most play. After the regular tourney.

I think it's a great game to show others what pinball is. Or what it looks like.

A fun example.

I feel like n b a fast break belongs next to it.

Looks like it. There is a thin red w/ white wire between the two on my machine.

20180118_154739 (resized).jpg

Yeah, that must be it.
Thanks for the picture, and thanks to everyone else who took the time to respond.

Can anyone please tell me what it's supposed to look like to the left of the goal here? I seem to be missing multiple posts of some kind

IMG_1885 (resized).JPG

Heres mine

IMG_0360 (resized).jpg

Could you share what size ring you've got to the left of the goal there? Mine is the wrong size.

You mean the one going around the 2 teal posts?

Yes, next to where you're missing a post.

Rollovers Question:

Before I dig into it this weekend, the rollover targets are much higher than my previous WCS. They really change the path of the ball roll. My old game the rollovers seemed lower and “softer” and don’t recall the ball ever being redirected to the extent of this one. Is there an adjustment under the playfield or suggestions on this?

Joined the club a couple weeks ago. I've been shopping this thing out since then. I added a color DMD today and did some of the led strip mods others suggested. I went back with all LED's minus a few in the backbox where I preferred incandescent. Going to have to take a break while I wait for Cliffy's to come in. If you don't already know, he has started making some of them carbon fiber due to warping issues with the originals. Looking forward to getting this one back together!

Anyone doing WCS94 plastics sets right now? I put a repro set on my game years ago but they were kinda crap and they cracked pretty bad at the screw holes.

Planetary pinball has them.

Good looking out, thanks guys.

Anyone interested in these battery adaptors for a single 1/2 AA lithium battery. Get rid of the Alcaline leakable batteries and just plug this adapter into your 3AA battery holder with a 1/2 AA lithium battery instead.

$10 a piece
$12 shipping (up to 5 adapter sets).

Cheers
/mima

DSC_0072.JPG

received_713568425508671.jpeg

Okay, please don't cross-post. Put an ad in the market.

Does anyone know the part number for the screws that hold the metal plate to the 2 pieces of ramp on the right hand side?

Do you guys know if ramps are being reproduced?

The WCS i'm restoring has ones that are broken and cracked in some places...

They've been rumored as "next in line" from Starship Fantasy for about 3 years...

http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/parts-by-machine/bally-parts/world-cup-soccer-94/03-9107-5.html

http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/parts-by-machine/bally-parts/world-cup-soccer-94/03-9108-2.html

Oh Wow !!!!
Thanks for that !

Not cheap, but hey... I'll consider that...

Thanks for the advice. I took a slow motion video of a ball coming down and it was indeed hitting the lower post and shooting across to the out-lane. In regular speed you couldn't even see it.

I took a flathead screw driver and stuck it between the top post and the end of the ball guide and pried it up maybe a mm, 2mm max. The ball now feeds directly to the left flipper for a trap so I probably need to raise it higher so it hits the middle of the left sling like it should, but after 500 games or so with the loop of death; I'm not complaining.