You need the goalie backing (http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-9134.1) and the goalie decal (
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1924-8) and you should be all set assuming you can find the screws somewhere in there...

My machine has a similar hole. A previous owner made a metal protector that goes around that U bend.

Got pictures?
My ramp is cracked at the same spot and I want to reinforce that somehow to avoid further damage.

Seems to be a common problem on WCS that spot. Any other DIY fixes people can recommend?

Hi all
Just joined the club though I got a non working machine. I turn it on and get an immediate Opto error message
Fuse issue?

Hello guys and gals.. I'm in the club! I acquired a very dirty WCS.. (stored with no glass) but 100% working and no cracked ramps.
I have a game play question. The World Cup finals is a 5 ball multi since you can manually plunge as many as you want....is this how the game is intended to be played?....is there any advantage to getting all 5 out on the field?
Seems like a good opportunity for Bally to use an auto launcher.

The way it is set up the computer scores another goal/is more likely to score every time you launch a ball. So there is some strategy and risk/reward not just launching every ball and going all out, but you can do that too.

Too many balls and it gets harder to score goals...the balls deflect off each other and get bounced around mid playfield. Like trying to shoot through a wall of defenders. I prefer launching one and seeing where it goes if l miss first. If it comes straight back to flippers I take another shot with that one ball. If it doesn’t look like it’s coming straight back, I’ll launch another one.

Mine is cracked as well.

I'm surprised that a protector doesn't exist for that area. A clean shot sends the ball up that ramp really hard and there is significant contact with the ramp plastic at that bend. After my flipper rebuild and a playfield waxing, the ball literally rocketed up there.

If Cliffy ever made a protector for this part of the ramp, I'd for sure buy one

I'm going to shop my game soon, any favorite rubber sets?

I put Titan transparent silicone rings on all my games, but just my personal preference. One thing I like about them is they don’t block light, and also they show dirt easily so you can use them as indiciators that the game needs a spit shine. This game needs to be cleaned more than most games imo to help keep it fast and the soccer ball in good shape to throw the pinball all over the place.

Here it is. Surprised there isn't a professionally made version of this.

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Totally agree on cleaning. I felt the soccer ball was not causing as much chaos as I first thought. A little cleaning later and it's throwing the ball everywhere!

RatShack - Can I please be a pain and ask you to please remove the plastic disc so I can see the installation better? It seems great and I'd like to make one for my machine!

Hmmm, mine has one of those discs installed, I thought it was factory!

If you are talking about the round disc with the guy doing a bicycle kick, that's factory. Both my WCS have them.

Whoops, I can see the metal fix in the curve now! I thought that the disc may have been a fix as a friend of mine doesn't have it

Oh but it's so much more fun to launch balls manually during the frenzy of shooting goals.

Is it ever possible to lock two balls in the left side lock? I noticed 2 switches in there. Still figuring this game out.

Nope. There for a two player game when one player locks a ball then the next player locks one as well. The game will spit out the first locked ball and then the player uses that to hit final draw for multiball instead of being served another ball to the shooter lane.

Wow so many ingenious rules built in!

Has anyone here reproduced these cabinet decals? Know anyone that has or could do it? Just my right side is peeling. Would gladly pay for a replacement. Please shoot me a PM. Thanks!

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http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-WCS-CABSET-SS

I have a problem with my machine. I get the opto trough error pictured and have pulled the boards out (also pictured)
Anyone see anything obvious here? Are the corresponding lights on each board supposed to match?

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Thanks comment23, however I do not need the entire cabinet artwork. I'm only in need of the large "officially licensed" sticker.

Optos come in different 'colors' of molding. Some clear, some emitters use red, Gottlieb used a tinted blue i think. What's important is that the emitters and receivers are on their respective boards. You can use some older digital cameras and cell phones to see if the Infra Red emitters are working.

They look fine to me, but trough opto boards are cheap enough that if you think they're bad, replace em. On some games (like Dredd) it will save you a world of hurt.

You can always change out the optos and reflow the pins, but I have never had great luck with that. Then again, I'm kind of a hack!

That error message on your DMD probably isn't because of your trough opto boards tho, you have something going on in your backbox with your 12v power section.

How odd that the new art has a white square where the "Officially Licensed" sticker would go and the OG art doesn't. Might just peel the old one off and clean up the gunk and see if it looks better without.

Was actually debating this! I think it may look better without.

You could email Rick at PPS and see if he is able to sell you the decals themselves? I believe he gets these from a supplier so it may be able to be a "one-off." Worth a shot.

Thanks, I'm a bit of a novice. Where in the backbox am I looking for 12v power issues?

Look who’s back! Back again! Shady’s back....tell a friend! Guess who’s back, guess who’s back, guess who’s back.....da da daa!

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PPS could make some loot if they did NextGen Translites for WCS94.....just sayin’

The power driver board (the big one) would seem to be the place to start. Check all your fuses (pull and test) and make sure your connectors are well seated and not burned or discolored. J116 I believe is opto power to PF?

sorry, how do you get to 4-5 ball multiball? i used to own one of these and didn't know i was doing it wrong. always thought i got 3 because i didn't lock anymore.

Only 3 possible in final draw multiball. The World Cup final wizard mode can be up to 5. Just depends on how many you decide to plunge into play.

3-Ball is standard when you:
lock one, hit "Final Draw",
then another will pop out at the plunger.
To get more than 3 balls involved, you need to make it to Los Angeles and begin the World Cup Finals against Germany. Unlimited balls for a preset length of time (which can be changed in one of the menu's).

gotcha. tyvm, guys.

Could somebody please do me a favor and lift their playfield and let me know where the red/white voltage cable from the jet bumper flasher connects to?
The shorter of the 2 red/white wires appears to connect to something within 3 or 4 inches. Mine is dangling loose and I can't figure out where it connects to.

Thanks in advance!!

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Found the point to connect the red/white voltage to. Wire had snapped in two. Quick fix with a Scotchlok.

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This is just such a fun game...really a great add to any line-up

Sounds like maybe the ball isn’t completely seated on the plate - if it isn’t pressed completely down with the inner ball groove around the plate’s perimeter, it’ll bump into the ramp like you’re describing. It should be pretty close to flush with the playfield, and spin without any contact with other parts.

Hey guys, does anyone have any ideas about how to fix a right loop return that consistently sends the ball to a power left out lane? AKA, shooting the spinner equals instant death.

My take on battery holders. New to pinball and electronics, so didnt want to solder if I could avoid it.
Probably not the first one doing this, but here is what I did;

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bat2 (resized).jpg

Removed the battery board and mounted it on the left side. Used a nut on the existing screw top right and a wood screw bottom left, with spacers on both, to keep it in place.

i know they're out of stock, but look for something like this:

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/RBM

Mezel sells something like this.

I had the same problem. The rubber post sleeve on the right side at the end of the ball guide was too big in diameter. I replaced it with a smaller one. That let the ball guide end move down a little bit and now the ball hits in the middle of the left sling which is where it should hit. (I'm On my 3rd WCS game)

Er - absolutely and completely unneeded.
WPC-S MPUs already HAVE a 'remote mounted' board. As pictured above in Wiggy 's post. He just moved it. It's supposed to be mounted on standoffs on the MPU board. He moved his over to the side of the backbox.

Yep. Awesome that this game is that easy to solve the issue. Just saying for other games where you can find the solderless solution.