That looks great. Damn I might need to get back in this club.

take a little phillips head, put it on the bottom of the post underneath the playfield, then hit it a few times with a hammer. to put it back in, place a piece of scrap wood on top of the post topside, then hammer it back in.

Thanks! Worked great. Odd design, but I guess this isn't a typically serviced post so they weren't worried about how easy it would be to change it.

anytime, buddy.

I just finished cleaning and waxing my wcs, but somehow finished with this plastic without a home. Can someone tell me where it goes? Took lots of pictures, but still missed this one. Thank you.

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Right orbit pretty sure.

Yea, directly in front of the "coin toss" mech in that same direction pointing up the PF. Unfortunately under this flasher and ramp etc.

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Thank you very much. Would either of you mind attaching a picture. I am holding it near the right orbit in front of the coin toss and can't figure it out. Thanks again.

Sort of hard to get a good pic. The bottom “cup” shaped cut out is located at the exit of the right orbit. The screw hole is under the the right screw of the right ramp.

Thanks. That was enough to get it installed. You are right about it being hard to get a good pic. I always try to post pictures after I am able to fix something in case others have the same issue later, but can't take one here. Thanks again.

I have a shop out thread for this game with lots of pics. That should help too.

I need to resolder these wires onto the lamp on the plastic right above the goal. How to tell which tab gets red and which green? Thanks!

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For that, it doesn't matter. Green to one, red to the other.

I was having an issue with my WCS where the DMD kept telling me the coindoor was open and displayed the "Coin Door Open Disabling High Power" error message. It would do it intermittently without any real consistency to it, it would just happen randomly. This post is to help anyone who might be having a similar issue.

As some background, when I bought the game the previous owner didn't do a very good job of keeping an eye on the batteries. They were leaking and got on the board. Not too much, but enough to cause some issues.

So to start trouble shooting, I first checked the switch inside the coin door and that was functioning as normal. The metal tab was pushing in the switch just fine and everything in that aspect was working.

So I traced the issue to the MPU board on the lower connectors. J212 is labeled as "Cabinet Switches" and J205 is "Direct Input Switches", right where the battery damage was.
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As you can see, some of those connectors were damaged from the battery leakage, some worse than others. I decided I was just going to replace all of the connectors and repin the wires. Connectors and pins are super cheap so I figured, why just do one or two when I can replace them all for less than about $20 and never have to worry about them again. I decided to go with the molex connectors because I personally like them better.

In process of changing out the old damaged connectors with the new molex connectors. You can see the green wires and connector look pretty good, but again, why not just replace it while I'm already at it?
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Header pins off. Some alkaline damage behind them on the board. J212 and J205 are far worse than J208 and J209.
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Removed all headers and cleaned acid damage from board. Had to do a bit of sanding as well to get the pads looking nice. And to take new solder as well.
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New header pins installed. Looks nice!
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Wiring all repinned and female connectors installed.
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Game plays great now. No issues whatsoever. In summary, replace you batteries or even better yet, get rid of them completely and install an NVRAM.
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Nice work. My game has the batteries on a separate board that’s mounted up off the main board. Not sure if that’s stock or what.

That's how his was too, you can see the standoffs. The corrosion will still drip down onto those connectors.

Yeah that's how mine was too when I bought it. But regardless the batteries can still leak and cause the damage you see above. Best bet is to either get a remote battery holder, or install an NVRAM. NVRAM is the best, most permanent solution to never ever have to worry about batteries again.

Good call. I’m a remote battery guy. I’ll get one for this too.

looking to rejoin the club - anyone wants to drop out, pm me. Trade nice RBION or cash.

The Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries are guaranteed to not leak.

http://www.energizer.com/batteries/energizer-ultimate-lithium-batteries

I understand the installing NVRAM is a b!tch unless you're have some very good soldering tools and skills due to the fine traces on the CPU board.

This is my take on the battery topic.
Custom made battery adaptor for a single CR2 or 1/2 AA lithium battery.

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i use these. love em.

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/RBM

Me too. Mezel mods is the only place that has them in stock right now FYI.

Installing an NVRAM can be a bit of a daunting task if you are not comfortable with soldering and board work. The easiest way that I've found is to clip all the legs off the existing RAM chip so that you can move the chip out of the way. Then desolder and suck off the old existing solder and simply remove each leg. Makes removing them much easier. Then you just put the new socket in, solder it on, and put the NVRAM chip in that socket.

Some games are as easy as plug and play. For example, I have a JP and it was as easy as removing the older socketed RAM and putting in the new NVRAM into the existing socket. No board work necessary, you don't even need to remove the board from your game.

With batteries, you still have to change them from time to time and you lose all your settings and scores. You never have to worry about that again with NVRAMs. *Note: I have been informed you can replace the batteries with the game on and save your info.*

Er, no. Replace the batteries with the game on.

Well hell, I stand corrected. To be honest, it's just a habit of mine to always turn the game off when working on it so I've always done it that way. You learn something new everyday.

Understandable, and a good thing to do. (Hell, I've broke things worse because I 'thought I could do it with the game powered on'.. Did you know that the cheaper soldering irons have grounded tips? Yeah.. don't try soldering the +50V lug on a coil.)

But the batteries are fine to do, and it saves time by not having you need to set the time/date again.

Found this today and want to fix it, even though its still working. The wires attach to the goalie.

Not an expert at these things, so what am i looking at? Is this some kind of molex connector and I just need to cut those wires of , crimp them and connect them again?

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That's one heck of a hack.
That's *half* a Molex connector, with what looks like the wires from the missing part of the connector just pushed into the terminals. I'd just replace both connectors, and be done with it.

Oh, yeah it sure didnt look right. Couldnt figure out how to pull them apart, lol.
Beside the j120 and j121 I changed a few days back I have never replaced a molex connector, or any other connector for that matter, ever.

So help me out here, what kind of molex connector do I need to fix this?
Can I use the trifurcons I used for j120/j121 for this connector aswell, or do I need something diffrent?

I'm sure some pin shops have them, I get all mine from Digikey though (since they're usually cheaper when buying larger amounts, and I get a bunch of other stuff when placing orders..):
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex-llc/03-06-1023/WM1230-ND/61242
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex-llc/03-06-2023/WM1220-ND/61196
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex-llc/02-06-2103/WM1000-ND/26253
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex-llc/02-06-1103/WM1001-ND/26255

Can't use the Trifuricon pins - these are 'inline' connectors, not headers. Since you only need one pair, there's likely a pin shop that will do you better.

Great stuff! Thank you

Anyone have an issue with the Pinbits protector for the "giraffe" piece making the combined height of the plastic and the protector too high for the right side of the spinner? Basically the wire coming out of the spinner bracket normally sits just above the plastic and spins freely, but with the protector it just gets jammed.

Not sure what to do other than not use the protector...

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Thanks, worked great. Almost got this thing back together...

Anyone else got this loose connector in their game? The one in the red cricle. I cant find anywhere to connect it.
With the playfield up its positioned to the right of the right flipper. It is connected to the bigger connector, up to the left, which is connected to the opto board left of the left flipper.
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I think I have the same mystery one

What wires (colors) go into it?

I have it as well.

The schematics show that it should be connected to the power driver board (J116-2 & J116-3), but I see no way to do that. Besides, mine works just fine without it.

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Happy new years, guys.

Was wondering - if any of you have to lift your playfield, can you grab a quick picture of the 7-opto board and it's surroundings?

Thanks!
-Mike

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This one? Not close to my game, but had this pic on my phone.

Thanks boss!

Anyone help with directions to get a new goalie assembly? Came to my arcade to find the plastic in the outhole and the target under the left ramp. Looks like the plastic the screws go in is mangled and destroyed. So all I have is a metal post with holes in it going back an forth. Thanks in advance for the help.

I picked up a dirty WCS94 a few weeks ago and I'm shopping it at the moment. I came across this crack in the right ramp. It's the perfect size for the ball to pop through! Any ideas on how to repair it?

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http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/03-9107-5.html

I’d buy a new one

I couldn't find the stickers for the ramp?

Here
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=SFNT&Category_Code=LAST&catlistingoffset=60&ProductsPerPage=20&sort=cxp.asc&Initial=

Thank you!